AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Shop Made Tools => Topic started by: David R. Pennington on January 21, 2017, 11:09:54 PM
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Does anyone use this trick? The problem is the little buggers that get stuck in the file that the card won't clean out, then when you start filing again they drag a big scratch in your work.(https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/DavidPflint/03109BA9-782C-4EB5-BA88-42F8D501A16B_zpsjpskq46e.jpg)[/URL
I learned this little trick a long time ago. Just take a scrap piece of brass (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/DavidPflint/media/03109BA9-782C-4EB5-BA88-42F8D501A16B_zpsjpskq46e.jpg.html)
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(I posted before I was done)
Hold a scrap piece of brass at an angle with the corner of one edge parralel with the file teeth. After a couple passes teeth are automatically cut into the brass that fit into the file grooves and force the debis out of the file recesses. I do this alot drawfiling a barrel.
(https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/DavidPflint/C0B32607-D101-4C3A-A49F-59450CCAB0C9_zpsotzkb2tg.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/DavidPflint/media/C0B32607-D101-4C3A-A49F-59450CCAB0C9_zpsotzkb2tg.jpg.html)photobucketphotobucketphotobucket
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Yep, someone mentioned it earlier (without photos) and I tried it. Works great far better than trying to get them out with a file card!
Dennis
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I flatten the mouth of a 30-06 casing, works like a champ!
Robby
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I love posts like this, Dave, thank you!
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I love posts like this, Dave, thank you!
Absolutely! This is the ultimate K.I.S.S*. tool.
Bob Roller
* Keep It Simple Stupid ;D
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Dave slick as can be. Big thank you Mike
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I find it easier to not get it in there to start with. I just use powdered chalk on the file and it (metal filings) comes out easily. Usually just have to tap the file on the bench, the chalk and the filings both fly out. If one does stick, the card file pops it out quickly as there is still chalk under the filing. I use standard snap line chalk. Any color you like. ;)
CW
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CW, I occasionally chalk my files, especially when filing lathe work, or on brass, but drawfiling barrels it seems like I chase my tail with the chalk. The little pieces stick in anyway and when I card there goes the chalk, so I have to chalk again. Seems easier to just push out the buggers. Plus the chalk is a little messier. This is pretty cheap too. One little scrap of brass can be used for 4 different grades of files, just turn it over and end for end. When it gets worn down, file it off square again and start over. (https://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/DavidPflint/8BE269E0-8095-446E-9699-3790000F0EC2_zpszqehgczp.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/DavidPflint/media/8BE269E0-8095-446E-9699-3790000F0EC2_zpszqehgczp.jpg.html)
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I agree Dave -- the chalk does not always work 100% of the time for me so I use the brass or a scribe to "pick" out the buggers.
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I find it easier to not get it in there to start with. I just use powdered chalk on the file and it (metal filings) comes out easily. Usually just have to tap the file on the bench, the chalk and the filings both fly out. If one does stick, the card file pops it out quickly as there is still chalk under the filing. I use standard snap line chalk. Any color you like. ;)
I use kids sidewalk chalk
Steve
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soap stone that iron workers use to mark steel, works better than any chalk I ever tried.
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soap stone that iron workers use to mark steel, works better than any chalk I ever tried.
Any welding supply has it.
Bulk cartons too.
Cheers,
Smoketown
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We always called it marking 'keel'. Supposedly the soapstone was used as ship's ballast in the old sailing ship days hauled down near the keel of the ship.
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I use an old .33 WCF casing.
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David R,
the "keil" is the wooden handle that the marking chalk, crayon or soapstone chalk goes in. just makes easier to hang on to.
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A few years ago I tried bacon grease when drilling metal and it worked better than motor oil. When I filed the burrs off the metal I got some of the bacon grease on my files. Then I found that the filings cleaned out of my files much easier, even with a brass bristle brush.
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A few years ago I tried bacon grease when drilling metal and it worked better than motor oil. When I filed the burrs off the metal I got some of the bacon grease on my files. Then I found that the filings cleaned out of my files much easier, even with a brass bristle brush.
A new recipe for iron rich gravy. ;D
Bob Roller
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We always called it marking 'keel'. Supposedly the soapstone was used as ship's ballast in the old sailing ship days hauled down near the keel of the ship.
Dixon Lumber Crayons – 12 Yellow - Markers/Keel - Marking Supplies ...
www.allenprecision.com/supplies/marking...keel/dixon-lumber-crayons-12-yellow/
These extruded lumber crayons (keel) last up to 10 times longer than ordinary molded wax crayons. Fade, water and smear proof. Won't melt in direct sunlight.
Cheers,
Smoketown
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Wilkie, did the salt in the bacon grease cause any problem with rust on your files?..... Bob
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Hi Bob. No the bacon grease didn't cause any rust problems that I could see. I also heard of using muratic acid on files to sharpen them but it is stronger than what I like to use. I tried distilled vinegar and found it to be safer and it does work. You cannot rejuvenate a severally dulled file but it will help a file that has lost some of its sharpness. I have heard that after files have had acid used to sharpen them that steel pins will stick in them much easier. I use a small acid brush to smear spots of bacon grease on several places on the file them use a brass bristle brush to spread the grease over the entire file. This reduces the amount of pins sticking in the file.
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I forgot to mention that bacon grease is very good to use when tapping threads. I tried bacon grease several years ago when I read on the instructions of my grandfathers Greenfield tap and die set said to use plenty of lard oil when tapping threads. Having just finished frying some bacon I tried some of the grease when tapping and it worked much better than motor oil. I tried it when drilling and then later tried it on my files when using them on steel. My grandfather was a blacksmith in the 1920's and I noticed the suggestion about lard oil in the instructions.
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I also forgot to mention that I use bacon grease on my high carbon hacksaw blades. It reduces heat buildup and prolongs the life of blade by quite a lot. When they do get dull I can still use them to make small springs.
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Wilkie,I have seen reference to the use of lard in old blacksmith journals as well, but it is unsalted lard not bacon grease they were referring to. With the humidity in my area, the salt in bacon grease would cause a problem I fear......Bob
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Hi Bob. It hasn't caused me a problem in the last 10 to 15 years. It makes a big difference on a hacksaw blade in reducing heat buildup which is the big reason that carbon steel hacksaw blades become dull. You can try it on one file, but I think you will like it. You can always clean it off. Also I used the grill from an old air conditioner, after I cut it in half, to hold my files. You have to support it horizontally and the file handles have to be on tight, but you can store a lot of files in a small space.
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Hi Bob. It hasn't caused me a problem in the last 10 to 15 years. It makes a big difference on a hacksaw blade in reducing heat buildup which is the big reason that carbon steel hacksaw blades become dull. You can try it on one file, but I think you will like it. You can always clean it off. Also I used the grill from an old air conditioner, after I cut it in half, to hold my files. You have to support it horizontally and the file handles have to be on tight, but you can store a lot of files in a small space.
I use tapping fluids like Relton as a help in finish cuts. Mostly on the inside of a lock
plate using a new,sharp long angle lathe file. I've done this for many years and know
it works.
Bob Roller