AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Oldbill99 on June 27, 2018, 01:30:31 AM
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I have gotten up my courage and am going to attempt to assemble a Ron Long percussion that I have had for a few years. I am beginning to use 360 grit sandpaper but I can see I'm going to need something more to truly polish it nicely. Any thoughts? Also, does anyone know where I can find a photo of both sides of a finished lock of his? They used to be everywhere, but, of course times have changed. Thanks!
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The R. E. Davis Jim Bridger Hawken lock was Ron's design. TOW has photos of the internals as well as the exterior.
David
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Thank you David. I will definitely look there😀
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To polish parts I use aluminum oxide wet or dry paper beginning with 240 grit. I then progress thru 320, 400, 600 and 800 grits. I make wood rubbing sticks of whatever shape is needed to polish all the surfaces. Final polish is with a buffing wheel.
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To polish parts I use aluminum oxide wet or dry paper beginning with 240 grit. I then progress thru 320, 400, 600 and 800 grits. I make wood rubbing sticks of whatever shape is needed to polish all the surfaces. Final polish is with a buffing wheel.
My own preference is CLOTH backed abrasives,not paper.Before starting the polishing,
check the dimensions on the tumbler and the hole in the plate as well as the small hole thru the
bridle.If these parts and the holes they are associated with are not very close,in this case within
.003 I would not start the project.Also be VERY careful with polishing wheels because they can
"saucer"a hole and the end result is a bad job. Make sure the plate is straight as well.
Bob Roller
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To polish parts I use aluminum oxide wet or dry paper beginning with 240 grit.
Polishing assumes that you have already filed everything flat and smooth. I can't imagine how long it would take to polish a raw casting using only sandpaper.