AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Tim on March 11, 2020, 07:46:18 PM
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What do you guys do when it comes to the screwdriver
Slots on the top jaw and tumbler screws of a Lock.
Do you grind down a screwdriver tip to fit the thin slots
Or open up these slots to a larger size for a bigger screwdriver tip?
I would like mine fixed so that maybe one tool
Could be used on both of these screws if possible.
Thanks in Advance for your help.
Tim
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I always open mine up using a knife edge file.
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I also open them up.
Ive used various tools but a fine tooth blade in a good hacksaw frame seems
to work pretty good.
I like the lock Screws/Bolts and the Top jaw on the Flint locks to be the same.
i also hate Buggered up heads so I case harden the heads when I got them how I want them.
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I also open them up.
Ive used various tools but a fine tooth blade in a good hacksaw frame seems
to work pretty good.
I like the lock Screws/Bolts and the Top jaw on the Flint locks to be the same.
i also hate Buggered up heads so I case harden the heads when I got them how I want them.
I used a miniature hacksaw with 64TPI and altered the "set" in those fine teeth for screw slotting
and have a fixture to help center the cut.After the slot is cut I used a very small knife shaped file
with an acute,sharp angle to finish with.I file the screw driver to fit these slots.I have had complaints
about these narrow slots and my answer is"buy a small screw driver and learn how to change the
shape of it".A lot of modern screws look like they were done with a woodruff key slotter and have
no place in any gun.
Bob Roller
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I open the up a bit too. Until my turn screws fit well. And keep a good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers to fit.
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For my last build I made an L-shaped spanner that fits in the patch box.
On the last one I heated the screw head and tapped the spanner into the slot making a perfect fit. The other side of the spanner fits the locks bolt and internal lock screws. I cleaned up the top jaw screw and case hardened it. I heat treated the spanner. Now I always have a perfect fitting tool for the lock and top jaw.
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For my last build I made an L-shaped spanner that fits in the patch box.
On the last one I heated the screw head and tapped the spanner into the slot making a perfect fit. The other side of the spanner fits the locks bolt and internal lock screws. I cleaned up the top jaw screw and case hardened it. I heat treated the spanner. Now I always had a perfect fitting tool for the lock and top jaw.
Could you post a picture of this spanner? Sounds like the perfect tool to have on hand.
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I think Bob said it all. I just counted all the screw drivers I have 51. All can be ground to fit screw slots.
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I open mine up until a quarter fits into the groove. Because I can forget, lose, or put a turnscrew in the wrong pocket and never find it. Usually there's a quarter somewhere close by if I don't have one in my coin keeper, which is always in the same pocket. And they give good torque.
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I DETEST narrow screw slots in general. They may look good on a $50,000 high prestige gun, but they are highly impractical, to say the least, in my not so humble opinion.
I like top jaw screws to have a good size slot, and a little bit V shaped, to fit ordinary type screwdrivers.
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I buy the small 3/8" diameter or so Dremel slotter/slitter saw, and run them in my mill to cut most of my slots. Can make a thin or wide slot. They come with integral shank and work real well.
kw
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I've got over 50 screwdrivers and most have wooden handles and are cheapies that were bought as I wandered through hardware stores. The hardness of the tip is checked and if too soft, I reharden it. I like narrow slots and the lock bolts I buy have them and I've ground one screwdriver that accommodates the narrow slots. Irrespective of the slot width, a hollow ground tip doesn't bugger up the slot....all my screwdrivers are hollow ground. Also....I Kasenit all the heads of the screws I use.
The cock screws usually have a very narrow slot so I don't use it. Instead I file a hex that's not very pronounced and use a hex wrench...Caution should be used when tightening because a lot of torque is generated w/ the hex wrench.....Fred
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For my last build I made an L-shaped spanner that fits in the patch box.
On the last one I heated the screw head and tapped the spanner into the slot making a perfect fit. The other side of the spanner fits the locks bolt and internal lock screws. I cleaned up the top jaw screw and case hardened it. I heat treated the spanner. Now I always had a perfect fitting tool for the lock and top jaw.
Could you post a picture of this spanner? Sounds like the perfect tool to have on hand.
It is just a flat L-shaped piece of spring steel with screw driver tips on each end.
(https://i.ibb.co/LYqQbQj/spanner.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gmXvHvq)
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For my last build I made an L-shaped spanner that fits in the patch box.
On the last one I heated the screw head and tapped the spanner into the slot making a perfect fit. The other side of the spanner fits the locks bolt and internal lock screws. I cleaned up the top jaw screw and case hardened it. I heat treated the spanner. Now I always had a perfect fitting tool for the lock and top jaw.
Could you post a picture of this spanner? Sounds like the perfect tool to have on hand.
It is just a flat L-shaped piece of spring steel with screw driver tips on each end.
(https://i.ibb.co/LYqQbQj/spanner.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gmXvHvq)
I might try to make me one of those. Is it difficult to bend the spring steel into that shape? Thanks for posting the picture.
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... Is it difficult to bend the spring steel into that shape? Thanks for posting the picture.
Not when it's hot. 8)
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Friends,
I thought I would share an observation from the years of research I did for my doublegun project. On French guns of the mid-18th century it seemed that screws that were intended to be manipulated by the gun owner, like lock bolts and frizzen pivot screw, were equipped with wider slots whereas those that would generally not be manipulated by the owner were equipped with very fine slots. The cock top-jaw screw was often cut with a slot suitable for turning with a knife blade, especially low-cost guns such as fusils, but not always. The higher quality guns being more likely to have a slot for a turn-screw.
That's all I know.
Best Regards,
JMC
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I had whined to Jim Chamber about the need to file my screwdriver to fit the slot on the flint screw, here was his response.
“I use what is known as a slitting file to make the screw slot into a narrow "V" shape that will fit most common screw driver blades. My slitting file is about six inches long and 3/4" wide. Another way is to use a narrow chisel to open the slot up into a "V" shape.
Jim C.”
Here is the response, when I emailed him that I took his advice.
Yep, 18th century screws were "V" slotted. So, since we don't have any "V" shaped cutters for the slots, we make them very narrow so that they can be opened up to the proper "V" shape with the slitting file. I do that to all the screws in the gun.
Jim C.
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I open up the slot a bit with a thin V shaped file, and carry a combination turn screw/ fire steel that I forged and filed to fit the slot
(https://i.ibb.co/S7TjPMw/P1010002.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6JhMmT0)
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I had whined to Jim Chamber about the need to file my screwdriver to fit the slot on the flint screw, here was his response.
“I use what is known as a slitting file to make the screw slot into a narrow "V" shape that will fit most common screw driver blades. My slitting file is about six inches long and 3/4" wide. Another way is to use a narrow chisel to open the slot up into a "V" shape.
Jim C.”
Here is the response, when I emailed him that I took his advice.
Yep, 18th century screws were "V" slotted. So, since we don't have any "V" shaped cutters for the slots, we make them very narrow so that they can be opened up to the proper "V" shape with the slitting file. I do that to all the screws in the gun.
Jim C.
Mr Chambers told me he used a slitting file and also that 18th century screws we V slotted.
I suppose that’s the way I will go with the screws on my late Ketland lock.
Then maybe I can make me a small tool to fit those V slots.
All of this stuff is new to me and I appreciate all of the advice.
Tim
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"I might try to make me one of those. Is it difficult to bend the spring steel into that shape? Thanks for posting the picture."
It is made of 1/8" x 3/8" spring stock. I bent it with a MAPP gas torch, vice and cresent wrench. Bend a little, when it starts to pucker re-heat and flatten with a hammer and anvil. Repeat until the 90* bend is made. Grind, file polish, and heat treat.
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I like skinny slots and use a Brownells Magna-Tip. I keep a stubby handle and two or three necessary bits in the bag.