AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Tenn Hills Guy on August 02, 2008, 03:51:07 AM
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Or, my preference is 'Turn-over' guns. Somehow that term seems more in keeping with the era. Being new here, perhaps they have been discussed 'Ad naseum', but there's always us new guys. Dpharris has got a big bore beauty going I'd like to see some more close-ups of. I'm building one from Dave Waters' book which will be smallish, 13/16th's barrels, only the hammer, frizzens and pans are store nought from DGW, the rest I'm doing from scratch. There are probably a number of ways of building them and would love to see some examples and share some of the unique techniques in building one.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi289.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll232%2FTennBubba_photos%2FSB10.jpg&hash=e18edd3c6e7e24c0b66d404e2a32d63fa72db26f)
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Hi ya Tenn, welcome to ALR.
ALR member David Price makes some real beauties.... check out his website http://www.davidpriceflintlocks.com
-Ron
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welcome Bill, glad you made it over to this site. that's quite a project your taking on. keep us informed with pics.
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Tenn,
It looks like you have a plan, and a good start.
I'd think that 13/16 barrels would be about right to keep the weight from becoming excessive on a swivel, espicially if you taper them. I have a late percussion swivel with straight 1 1/8 barrels and it weighs a ton! On the other hand, I looked at a Adam Angstatt with slender tapered barrels, and it was as light as a feather.
Are you going to use a modern swivel/lockup arrangement and barrel attachment like David Price uses, or a more traditional method? I can see where both styles have their merits.
Early wood forearm, or later brass one?
The only advice I can give is to think Slender (top to bottom) regarding the lock, particularly the forward part with the pan and frizzen.
If I was ever going to build a gun, it'd probably be a swivel breech too.
John
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Exactly why I wanted to put this thread up, hoping to learn what obviously are a number of ways to build one. Mine will use a lever and what the desigber, Dave Waters, calls a 'shot pin'. Lever works an 'L' shaped gizmo which retracts the pin and allows the barrels to 'turn-over'. I will use a wood forearm. Never saw one in brass. Just getting started on the stock
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi289.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll232%2FTennBubba_photos%2FSBStock4.jpg&hash=ae0937465f72cea918df9c96189deb637a12f214)
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Tenn Hill Guy
Welcome to the forum. KyFlinter has already suggested for you to go to my web site. You can get a good look at all the parts dissembled which may help you. If I can be of any assistance please e mail me, I would be glad to help.
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Yea, I've been to your site. I don't like it! I don't like your shop! I don't like you! Actually, I have had it book marked for awhile. Frankly, that's what got me interested in them-SB's- in the first place. Problem is, I can't seem to get past so much 'eye candy', I didn't reach the innards 'til today. Guess we can't explain what gets our attention. Don't think I have enough years left in me to ever achieve what you do, but it's been a lot of fun doing the first one-kinda like your first ....... date? Thanks for the offer, you may indeed hear from me.
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Hey Tenn Hills Guy, here is a brass forearmed swivel breech they had at Dixon's.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc115%2Fjpldude%2Fbrass_swivel.jpg&hash=0256666313efb1feb620099762e6e73431b36eca)
HTH,
John
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Those are nice, I especially like those gently curving stocks.
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Seeing the swivel breech guns at Dixon's was a real treat! I'd like to build one someday... well, I'd like to build one of everything, but a swivel breech is high on the list. Several of the rifles had skinny 3/4" barrels if I recall correctly, and some are a lot slimmer than the photos appear. There was an early Berks co. gun at the top of the case that also had 3/4" barrels in roughly 50cal (both smooth, mighta been bored out though). A lot of those have a neat "sliding triggerguard" setup that releases the barrels. Half, or in some cases the whole triggerguard slides back about 3/16". It looks like you're off to a great start, keep us updated,
-E
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Nicolas Hawk, the top rifle in the picture, used a sliding trigger guard.
Pulling the TG back with your finger around the front bow, pulls the entire TG back, which pulls a pin back that fits into a detent (hole) in the swivel plate that the barrels are attached too. As you turn the barrels, releasing the TG allows a spring to slide it forward again, and as the bottom barrel reaches the top position, the pin pops back into a detent to align that barrel.
Viola! Ready for the second shot!
John
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Wish I could get pics of the various types of construction, mine uses a lever to pull back the pin, allowing the swiveling and releasing then locks it. I'm amazed at how small the action has turned out. I will be using 13/16th's barrels. I'm at the point know where a lot of little stuff needs doing: spring making, countersinking, grinding, polishing, stock work. I made the 'universal double set triggers' for it. Started with a single set, but decided most seem to have doubles.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi289.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll232%2FTennBubba_photos%2FSBTriggersetccomp.jpg&hash=4885ffda6424fd8a3a48fe1b0a5d1d860af46217)