AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Ron Scott on May 29, 2020, 04:46:07 PM
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I now own this Fowler and have plans to offer it as a model for a future class. Molds of the mounts and lock parts will get under way in a few months.
(https://i.ibb.co/kJVjS0S/3044-03.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0KpTGZG)
(https://i.ibb.co/kMbnh5r/3044-05.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Q4NfmW)
(https://i.ibb.co/bzdZMQv/3044-07.jpg) (https://ibb.co/868pLNx)
(https://i.ibb.co/VJwf8D5/3044-04.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckY4dtV)
(https://i.ibb.co/Zf4BYs7/3044-06.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D1c98XT)
(https://i.ibb.co/gWpnpdL/3044-01.jpg) (https://ibb.co/X5gwgDr)
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What does that date? 1690-1700? I may be interested in a set of mounts, minus the lock.
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Most awesome!
I have a barrel that might bode well with that hardware!
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Cool piece, sling swivels got my attention. Something not common.
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Cool piece, sling swivels got my attention. Something not common.
Flat toe too.
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Herman Historica listed it as a 1740s piece, but I note that date estimate shows up a lot in their catalogue .
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Very nice find Ron, I too would be interested in a set of mounts if you find you have extras. How long is the barrel and bore size. Are there plans to have some one make some barrels? That breach looks massive but it could be just a trick of the scale. You have that cool gun Karma. Your class will be awesome.
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Will you be teaching the gold electroplate as well, or as gold inlays, as was done way back then?
Really appears to be a good challenge for 98% of the builders, very elegant - or as the French would say, "Tres elegante'".
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The gold you see on that fowler is not gilding but overlaid sheet gold about .003 to.005 thick. At least on the lock and thumb piece. I can't see the barrel good enough to tell about it. I do both electro gilding and overlay and can teach it to anybody who might be interested.
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Tried some many years ago, with the inlay. Didn't work out so good, so I may have to go take the class. I do have some gold coins, but they are from the mid-19th century, so are worth a lot more than the gold value.
Jerry, if you post a tutorial, beat me on the head to notice it, OK?
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I think Ron Scott can do both has well. He is an excellent engraver.
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I will not have the Fowler in my possession until it can be shipped from Munich. The listed length of the Fowler is 145 cm, so I am estimating a barrel length of 48 inches. Craig, Jerry is correct about the gold being mechanicaly added to the decoration. It would require a very pure gold, 24 K to do this type of work. Assuming that a class gets scheduled, we could cover the gold application process. My wood supplier in Armenia has indicated he can cut stock blanks long enough to make this. Of course, it is possible to make it with a more moderate length barrel.
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Nice!!!! I would definitely be interested in castings. Beautiful piece!
Ed
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Ron,
It appears to me that thee are a lot of details that would suggest a 1740 time frame. My research suggests that bridled pans started appearing around 1750, especially on high-end guns. Also, the little steps in the nose of the lock plate profile became much less common after that time frame. The trigger guard has the St. Etienne style architecture. In the 1760's the "Parisian style" trigger guard became much more common for civilian guns. I am looking for details that would push a date estimate to an earlier period but I don't see any right now.
Best Regards,
JMC
John Cholin
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Take a look in the Torsten Link book, there are arms like this early century .
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Will you be teaching the gold electroplate as well, or as gold inlays, as was done way back then?
Really appears to be a good challenge for 98% of the builders, very elegant - or as the French would say, "Tres elegante'".
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Might be Mercury gilding on that hardware ?
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I am planning to make up a second mold of the Butt Plate with a round toe. This should provide a more varied usage. Same finial.
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Take a look in the Torsten Link book, there are arms like this early century .
BINGO!. The belly in the wrist/butt is the key in dating something like this. By 1750 they are curved severely the other way.
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Goo.
This is not mercury gilding. I know how to do all three and I think Ron does as well. In can tell by the looks of the surface of the gold. I think all the gold on the gun is either overlay or inlay. Overlay is actually easier than gilding and more durable. Mercury gilding looks cheap. I could tell you how to tell the difference but no time here. Pm me for more details