AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Scota4570 on September 15, 2020, 05:40:42 PM
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I have tha X-acto one. I do not like it. The blades do not stay in place. Is there a better saw frame I should buy? Get a scroll saw? I am working on a pierced side plate.
Thanks,
Scot
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A Knew Concepts saw, while expensive, Will last the rest of your life. Best I’ve ever used.
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Santa Cruz! That is close, I'll call when they are open.
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A Knew Concepts saw, while expensive, Will last the rest of your life. Best I’ve ever used.
Which version best suits the needs of a Longriflesmith?
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I bought the 5” Fret saw. Gives lots of room for material width.
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I bought the 5” Fret saw. Gives lots of room for material width.
Which 5" version best suits the needs of a Longriflesmith?
ORIGINAL / BASIC? $60
WITH LEVER TENSION?? $80
WITH LEVER TENSION AND SWIVEL BLADE??? $105
https://www.knewconcepts.com/MK3-5-inch-saws.php
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I use the basic one. The others are just bells and whistles if you want them.
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I got the cheapest one that Rio Grande sells about 30 years ago and it has seen a LOT of use. Its still I think they are up to about $10 now.
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I've been happy with my cheap no name saw. It was about $20 for the saw with I think 144 blades.
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I use both a generic and the Knew Concept saw - the nod goes readily to the latter. No bells and whistles for me, just the basic one. Tension is easily adjusted very quickly.
I generally use the Laser blades from Rio Grande. 5/0, 2/0 (most used), #3, and #8. Usually just buy a gross of each of those. They will saw through most anything - I used one to saw out most all the 4130 steel parts for several airplanes. They CAN saw through fingers very easily.
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I've been happy with my cheap no name saw. It was about $20 for the saw with I think 144 blades.
I've got a cheap saw as well as the Knew. There's a reason why they sell blades by the gross. I have 10 times less blade breakage with the Knew.
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While the New Concept saw is very nice (and expensive) the simple style does the job. The first thing is you got to learn how to use them and get the right blade for the job at hand ;). The German adjustable is my pick :).
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I use a vintage german made frame. I can still break blades when I try.
(https://i.ibb.co/9HT5zTC/IMG-0760.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TM83p8F)
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Guys,
In my opinion the jeweler's saw was perfected over 250 years ago, here is a scan from the mid 18th c. Wyke tool catalog showing one.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/Wyke/JewelerSawa.jpg) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/JamesEverett/a/59f48ff2-b870-451b-9b32-0808e0f04812/p/8381060d-5357-4e6d-91ac-10cc690b4043)
Here is a photo of an original that I use today, still works great!
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n514/JamesEverett/Tools/Misc%20Tools/100_5001a.jpg) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/JamesEverett/a/922a134e-d703-475c-9234-663b709f4c10/p/26cb43d3-9318-419c-91e4-b9cf2d41dd8e)
Jim
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Knew concepts is not answeering the phone.
My cheap Xacto frame does not hold the blades securely. I need to make due. Should I put rosin on the blade ends?
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MBS has jeweler saws.
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I just bought one from MBS,they told me I'd break blades at first but I didn't break any till later. I'm amazed how little file work there is to do later. Good tool.
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AND the blades do not get thrown away,, they just get shorter and so does your stroke.I have a couple of older ones that are just round stock,like a coping saw,cut on the pull stroke with a "V" BOARD BACKER.
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Just an FYI, some of the cheapo saw frames have crappy clamp screws, and crappy blade clamps. You can be sawing along, and the blade slips out of the handle end. It's just really frustrating. Buy a good one. My two cents.
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First started using a jeweler's saw during my tool and diemaker apprenticeship but using one was a rare event. Never did like a jeweler's saw because overall it's a slow way to remove excess sheet metal. ....especially if one doesn't use it often.
Since getting into MLer gunmaking, I only use a jeweler's saw for piercings in sheet metal.....all the other sheet metal removal on all the parts is done w/ a hacksaw and then a coarse file....much faster than a jeweler's saw ...no multiple blade replacements and it's surprising how fast excess sheet metal is removed by sawing close w/ a hacksaw and then using a coarse file.
Also, multiple parts can be made at one time , the BC cheek stars as an example.....3 pcs of 1/16" thick sheet silver are held together w/ super glue , the stars are cutout w/ a hacksaw and then a coarse file and finally finished w/ a fine file. The center screw hokes are also drilled while attached. When done, the 3 stars are heated w/ a propane torch and fall apart. The same is done w/ the Pbox sideplates although the difference in length of the ends that touch the Bplate have to be allowed for. Of course edge draft has to be filed on before inletting, but this has to be done irrespective of the saw used.
As a toolmaker, speed was important and one's raises were based on how fast a die or mold was built and that's my excuse for a habit that seeks the fastest ways to make a MLer, but w/ high quality still maintained.....Fred
(https://i.ibb.co/p0cNRC2/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tmgnxyB)
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Fred; you do excellent work, why did you stop?
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Hi....the macular degeneration of both eyes became so bad that I was unable to do the work....in fact I lost my drivers license due to failing the eye exam. Later my eye MD got the license back.
Presently receiving shots in my right eye which is classified as "wet" because of blood accumulation under the retina which leaks out. This disease causes a deterioration at the center of my sight picture around the optic nerve..... this ever increasing area is a blank space in my view.
I really miss building MLers but it's impossible to do.....Fred
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Mine is an antique one too. I have a pretty good modern one but like the original best. Had to dress clamps up a little so it would hold blades better.
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I have 4 jeweler saw frames and by far the German style ones from Rio Grand are my favorites and work the best. They are shown here with the black wood handle. The one on the right with the light colored wood handle is made by Eclipes and is a piece of JUNK. It does not hold the blade tight in the clamps and also the thumb screw on the top right of the frame will get loose and not keep the blade in tension.
(https://i.ibb.co/FBwX7Zc/P1030466.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cNFwTfR)
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I built my own using this video as a guide. Now I have nothing to blame for problems except my saw blades.
https://youtu.be/IFYoTkY6Qi8