AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Chris in SE PA on September 30, 2022, 03:41:58 AM
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I'm using the Laurel Mountain sealer for my 1st build. Almost finished, finally.
So, does anyone knock it back with 0000 steel wool or 400 grit paper between coa
ts?
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Search for posts by Bill Shipman. He apparently had a great technique for rubbing it back to make it look very much like a period finish. It involves a toothbrush and rottenstone.
I haven't done one yet but this is what I plan to do soon.
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I have used old felt pieces with both pumice and rottenstone on other types of finish, suspect it would work with LMF sealer. Dampen the felt pad with some mineral oil. I cut pieces from a old hat that belonged to my dad.
Dennis
I'm using the Laurel Mountain sealer for my 1st build. Almost finished, finally.
So, does anyone knock it back with 0000 steel wool or 400 grit paper between coa
ts?
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I use a toothbrush and rottenstone mixed with mineral oil but only on the last coat. Buff it with an old tee shirt.
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The LMF Sealer is applied generously and then has a soak in time of 10 -15 mins. The excess is wiped off. When each coat is completely dry, the excess is removed w/ 0000 steel wool. This is done twice. After the LMF is completely dry, 2 finger applied coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat complete the finish. The end result is a finish that looks like there isn't any finish on the wood. I don't have a problem w/ steel wool strands because it's only used on the dried finish.....Fred
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The instructions say to use oooo steel wool between coats to help with adhesion of the second coat. I don’t like all the little fuzzy steel wool pieces in the inlets that have to be cleaned out so I use gray scotchbrite pads.Also, on walnut, steel wool will stick in the grain.
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After you 0000 steel wool it, put the round brush on your shop vacuum
& vacuum the H out of it. Take your time & work the brush & let the vacuum
do its thing. That will get all the wool strands out, or it always has for me.
Only time I rub one out with 600 / 1000 / 2000 paper is if I want a slick as
glass looking finish & I seldom want that on a ML..
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Bronze wool can also be found online. I've bought some for work on things like wood or stainless steel where you don't want rust dots to show up later. Great for stainless steel sinks too. Less aggressive obviously than steel. I am not sure the cutting power of grades of steel wool versus bronze wool. I am sure others will know. God Bless, Marc
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I like to use the shop vac and brush method followed by a super strong magnet passed over the stock to remove 0000 steel wool strands from inlets. The magnet usually finds more strands hiding somewhere even after vacuuming.