AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: smart dog on February 23, 2023, 04:15:17 AM
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Hi folks,
I've been working on and off on a second Hawk New England fowler for a while. I am just catching up with posting so I put up some photos taken a while ago. The original Connecticut River Valley gun can be seen here:
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=49909.msg494966#msg494966
It is one of the finest New England fowlers ever made. I made a version of it several years ago:
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=52871.0
This time, I am making it closer to the original and included a longer barrel. The original has a 57" French barrel that is incredibly thin walled. I could not get that duplicated so I finally settled on a 20 gauge 50" barrel by FCI with the idea of working it over. It took me 2 years to find and get that long a barrel. It was made in the Spanish form and originally had a wedding band transition from octagon to round and a flare at the muzzle.
(https://i.ibb.co/5hbmbG0/mikes-barrel-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F4R2Rmr)
Both features had to go. I wanted a simple unadorned transition from octagon to round and no flare at the muzzle, just a slightly tapered tube all the way. Now some of you would advise taking it to a machine shop but I could do it on my own. My secret weapon is the 12" single cut razor sharp lathe file. In one and a half days of work, I got rid of the wedding band, tapered the octagon section the way I wanted, and got rid of the flare at the muzzle. In the process, the mound of steel wool shavings at my feet grew to 8-10" high. The barrel lost a pound of weight. The transitions machined in the barrel for the swamp and flare were abrupt and blobby. I wiped all of that roughness out. The next step was to cut the sight plane down the full lenght of the barrel.
This is how I did it.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5bCSW9/mikey-s-barrel-2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/LgsDxc5/fence-for-sighting-plane-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ykxm6ZS)
(https://i.ibb.co/7yTQ9Sb/fence-for-sighting-plane-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dK3thf7)
(https://i.ibb.co/fvGnFzD/fence-for-sighting-plane.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hf1Z9JY)
(https://i.ibb.co/d6k3c6J/finished-bead-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q9m4n9F)
(https://i.ibb.co/m5bCSW9/mikey-s-barrel-2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
The silver front sight will be mortised into the barrel just in front of the end of the sight plane.
The stock is band sawed out of a dense cherry blank. Notice how tight and straight the grain is running through the wrist.
(https://i.ibb.co/Bj7x3Jn/Mikey-rough-stock-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3W8qdbR)
(https://i.ibb.co/6mBr0q5/Mikey-rough-stock-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xb8jxGT)
(https://i.ibb.co/XXf4BBV/Mikey-rough-stock-3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
The lock will be a TOW Tulle lock because it has the best fit superficially to the original lock. Beyond that superficial appearance it is a piece of junk despite some saying "it is a good sparker". Let's look at it. Outside, with some welding, it will serve the purpose. Inside, it is a joke. Look at the position of the mainspring. It is so high on the plate that it could never be mated with an historically accurate large breeched barrel without the mainspring breaking into the barrel channel. This is stupid beyond belief. Also note that the hook of the mainspring just barely hits the toe of the tumbler at rest. Most importantly, look at the length of the lock plate bolster and how it does not overlap the shoulder on the flint cock. So the shoulder of the cock rest against the thinner edge of the lock plate just barely. Now imagine inletting that such that the shoulder of the cock clears the stock. It is very close to exposing a gap behind the lock plate. This is so stupid and if the bolster was extended just 1/8" more, the problem would be solved. Well of course that is what I will do as well as many other things.
(https://i.ibb.co/xGGCqBY/Mikey-lock-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bLLW5CF)
(https://i.ibb.co/6FLTxY2/Mikey-lock-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/njtYvrT)
(https://i.ibb.co/18dhFFk/Mikey-lock-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r4cTDDV)
(https://i.ibb.co/N1Lxw2h/Mikey-lock-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HNr7mTv)
More to come.
dave
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Interesting original . Should be an interesting follow along too.
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Hey,Where's your lovely young student?I hope she hasn't given up on becoming a female gunmaker.
That lock was assembled by someone who has no idea about what a lock is,
I would make a shim shaped like the contour of the lower part of the bolster and extend it to the needed length.
The mainspring must be repositioned to get it safely back on the tumbler and the front end lowered a bit.
Screwball idea 4122A has been presented and I'll now depart.
Bob Roller
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I looked through the photos on the links to refresh my memory. I really liked what you did with the sighting plane on the barrel. However, what I like the most on the original as well as your interpretation, is the carving. Specially around the trigger guard coming of the lock panels.
Glad to see you are doing it again.
Look forward to seeing the carving .
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I agree Alacran. Those "curls" flowing from the panels. Just lovely.
(https://i.ibb.co/VmnN2J8/Hawke-Carving.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fv6S4q7)
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Hi Folks,
I was too busy to post more photos of this project and I fell behind with it when I got sick in March. I am going to catch up with old and new photos. This project is difficult because no components readily available can be used without extensive modification and many others need to be fabricated from scratch. The Hawk fowler is one of the most sophisticated and beautiful New England guns ever made. I attributed it to mid-18th century gun makers along the Connecticut River but recent discoveries by historian and gun builder, Richard Colton, may change that. Richard retired from his position as historian for the Springfield Arsenal NPS Historical Park. He is familiar with almost every surviving gun in NE from the 17th and 18th centuries. He is a wealth of knowledge backed up by evidence and documentation and a superb maker of those New England guns. He discovered a gun very similar to the Hawk fowler including the unique butt plate and trigger guard made by Barnabas Mathis of Worcester, MA. Some of you may recall that name relative to RCA #13. Richard believes Mathis may have been a very influential gun maker in the Worcester area promoting use of French fashions and designs. So the Hawk fowler might be from the hot bed of New England gun making surrounding Worcester and Shrewsbury, MA rather than the CT River.
So, I am still building a relatively close copy of the Hawk fowler regardless of its history. The lock is one challenge. The closest modern version is the "Tulle" lock sold by TOW. Close is a relative term. A lot has to be changed as I mentioned in my previous posts. The Hawk gun has 3 bolts holding the lock in place like old Buccaneer guns. So I had to add length to the lock plate and shape it accordingly. Next on the lock is filling the mainspring stud hole so it can be reshaped and mounted such that it doesn't interfere with the barrel channel. The current position is stupid beyond reason. I fixed the other issues with this lock such as the position of the flint cock far away from the lock plate. The rest of the work involved welding.
(https://i.ibb.co/xSjZ1RS/Mikey-lock-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDCd9SD)
(https://i.ibb.co/kKCXBWN/Mikey-lock-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p2Fdw9Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/mbJwpBd/Mikey-lock-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckJHqvR)
(https://i.ibb.co/F7KhPf7/Mikey-lock-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0JcnwWJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/g4Q1MbJ/Mikey-lock-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6XGhRcF)
(https://i.ibb.co/P43Qmbd/Mikey-lock-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Z8tDWx)
I inlet the barrel by hand rather than using any machinery. It just was more straight forward that way. I used chisels, scrapers, and Gunline round and octagon barrel floats. The fit was clean and tight but it just seemed to go on forever. These long barrels are a test of discipline and perseverance.
(https://i.ibb.co/PDp9trm/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HhvxXKF)
(https://i.ibb.co/4dGjpgg/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k1fhX66)
(https://i.ibb.co/cx5Vhbr/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/m4q9npX/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-4.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
As with most of my barrel inlets, I painted the channel with a varnish tin coat of AcraGlas tinted with LMF Lancaster Maple stain. You can see how thin it is since the wood grain is so visible. It will strengthen the thin barrel walls 3-10 times over the bare wood.
(https://i.ibb.co/S3VH6YF/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LZ9B0jV)
(https://i.ibb.co/7khsZR5/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y42HZY1)
(https://i.ibb.co/4Zs18Qh/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6RvXHdj)
I trimmed wood off the forestock and you can see how slim and elegant this gun will be.
(https://i.ibb.co/MhvYszm/Mikey-rough-stock-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N3v8s0M)
(https://i.ibb.co/S0gS7sy/Mikey-rough-stock-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VDG6pj9)
dave
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Hi Folks,
Thanks for looking and commenting. I spent most of my day working on the fowler but had other jobs to attend to as well. The shooting and reenacting season is upon us and I always get a flurry of emergency work to do at this time of year. The next flurry comes just before muzzleloader hunting season opens. Anyway, I did more work on the lock. I finished all the welding, shaped the affected areas, changed the position of the mainspring, and fitted a different flint cock. Here is the original lock as a refresher.
(https://i.ibb.co/xSjZ1RS/Mikey-lock-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDCd9SD)
(https://i.ibb.co/kKCXBWN/Mikey-lock-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p2Fdw9Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/TbQXcJm/Mikey-lock-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GtZw7Gc)
(https://i.ibb.co/L1sLbzW/Mikey-lock-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m4PL1Cw)
It is the Tulle fusil lock sold by TOW. I don't know who makes it. I needed to lengthen and widen the lock plate to match the original lock on the Hawk fowler. That lock is held on with 3 lock bolts so there had to be more room behind the sear to fit a bolt. As you can see, the mainspring is very high on the lock plate and it cannot accommodate a large barrel without breaking into the barrel channel or having the upper leaf ground thinner to fit the barrel. Also, the lock plate bolster is ground way to short. Much more than is necessary to clear the mainspring and tumbler bridle. As a result the shoulder of the flint cock barely rests on the thicker bolster with half of it on the thinner edge of the lock plate. It barely makes contact with the plate because it it positioned so far out from the plate. I believe that was done so the shoulder of the flint cock was not deeper than the edge of the lock plate. Imagine trying to inlet a lock in which the inner shoulder of the cock is deeper than the edge of the lock plate. How could you inlet that such that the cock cleared the stock without the inner edge of the lock plate being exposed? The manufacturer's answer was to position the cock way out on the tumbler post such that only the inner edge of the shoulder hits the lock plate. Anyway, the lock gives me the chance to do some of my favorite things, heat, melt, and beat the snot out of stuff made of metal. As I posted earlier, I welded steel to the tail and bolster of the lock. Then I shaped the lock plate and filled the pin hole for the mainspring. To do that, I countersink both sides to the hole, fill it with welding rod, and peen the ends of the rod into the countersinks. Then I heat the mushrooms of peened metal with my welding torch, fusing them in the hole. File flush and the hole is gone. Then I drilled a pin hole lower on the plate so the upper leaf of the mainspring has more clearance for a large barrel. I swapped out the flintcock for one from Chambers early Ketland lock and fitted the top jaw to the new cock.
(https://i.ibb.co/pyVMH5k/Mikey-lock-9.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/PZ0yKJW/Mikey-lock-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rGNhYqp)
(https://i.ibb.co/Ry2FMWy/Mikey-lock-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JQn1bPQ)
Now I have to deal with the mainspring. It has a twist to it such that it starts out tight to the plate but at full cock, migrates outward quite a bit.
(https://i.ibb.co/dfm4VZy/Mikey-lock-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3TRmjKH)
(https://i.ibb.co/s5JcNWt/Mikey-lock-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbXRZYx)
Speaking to the maker of the lock, how on earth do you allow that kind of sloppy work out of your shop for sale? What do you expect the average buyer to do to deal with that? Do you care? Do you think they should know how to reshape, harden and temper a spring to fix your poor work? Is $230 too little to expect a lock that has a mainspring that actually is made properly?
dave
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I used one of those locks for a build. It had internals from Jim Chambers in them at the time. If I remember correctly the main spring set lower on the plate than the one you have.
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Hi B. Barker,
Others have remarked that these were good locks but that was when Chambers was making them or at least supplying the parts. I don't know who is making them now.
dave
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...Speaking to the maker of the lock, how on earth do you allow that kind of sloppy work out of your shop for sale? What do you expect the average buyer to do to deal with that? Do you care? Do you think they should know how to reshape, harden and temper a spring to fix your poor work? Is $230 too little to expect a lock that has a mainspring that actually is made properly?
dave
How frustrating it is to spend good money on "high quality junk". Luckily you have the skill and means to fix their flubbery. But, the point is you shouldn't have too.
You have another beautiful build going on here. I'll be watching!
Hank
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Hi,
Thanks Hank for the support. I had a great day. I fixed the mainspring on the lock. I had to heat it red hot and bend the lower leaf horizontally so it lined up with the upper leaf. Then I hardened and tempered it. In the process I opened the bend slightly to give the spring more strength. Next up was carving the ramrod groove and drilling the ramrod hole. The ramrod hole is 9/32" in diameter and the ramrod groove is 5/16". I could not disassemble the original gun when I examined it a couple of years ago but my measurements of the ramrod groove and thickness of wood between the barrel and ramrod groove and hole presented a problem. I could not see how the ramrod hole avoided breaking into the barrel channel and allowed clearance for the forward lock bolt. There was not enough downward angle to the ramrod groove or freeboard on the sides of the stock to do that. So, I suspected that the gunsmith deflected the ramrod drill downward after the rear ramrod pipe. So my first job was to cut a ramrod groove that angled down slightly. I normally use my router table for this but in this case, the job had to be done by hand. I cut the groove with a gouge such that it was deeper at the muzzle and shallower at the rear pipe.
(https://i.ibb.co/xLWzbWn/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-6.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/CPNkkWr/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3RGDDkJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/HnNPdXL/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6gvtBNc)
Then I did some "by guess and by golly" calculations and decided on a thin brass shim to deflect the ramrod drill away from the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/hR98Zr1/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qMj1WhF)
However, before I could do any drilling, I had to make a >50" ramrod drill. The longest drills I had were 48". So I had to make a new drill just for this gun. I set up the drilling and away I went.
(https://i.ibb.co/LCynfHC/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xMbJQdM)
(https://i.ibb.co/bBRms14/mikey-s-ramrod-groove-and-hole-3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
It came out very well. I could have used a little more deflection but the hole will work. The forward lock bolt will break into the barrel channel requiring a groove on the bottom of the barrel but that is no problem. I was so happy with the result that I lifted up my dog Willow and waltzed around the shop to the "Mull of Kintyre".
dave
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Hi Dave,
Just another absolutely wonderful explanation of the "how and why" of your work. The brass shim to deflect the drill is just a great idea with excellent execution.
I look forward to seeing (and maybe once I'm finished my Fowler, helping you with?) your progress.
I am also very bummed I missed you and Willow waltzing through the shop.
-Your apprentice
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Amazing fowler build, excellent photos and write up!
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Dave: Your ability and willingness (and fearlessness) to capture the minutest of historical details is nothing short of extraordinary.
Jennison
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Hi,
I am finally catching up with this important project. It will be my focus now until it is done. It is a challenging one as you will see. Anyway, I made the ramrod pipes. With the long barrel this gun has 5 pipes. They are all octagon with decorative collars at each end. You cannot buy commercial pipes the right size so I had to make the suite. I used 0.04" thick sheet brass and a cast 3/8" fowler rear pipe I bought from TOW.
(https://i.ibb.co/JnRmpd5/mikey-s-pipes-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Zd6GgJW)
The pipes get smaller in diameter toward the rear accommodating a tapered ramrod. So the first pipe is 3/8" inside diameter, the second is 21/64" and so on until the rear pipe is 5/16" inside diameter. Simply multiply the desired diameter by Pi and then add double the height of the vertical tabs to get the long dimension for the sheet brass. The pipes are all 1.0625" in length so that establishes the other dimension. Then I just cut the rectangle out with metal shears.
(https://i.ibb.co/JjK3Vst/mikey-s-pipes-2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Once cut out, I square the edges and anneal the brass. Then I bend the tabs.
(https://i.ibb.co/P6b9hdR/mikey-s-pipes-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tJNxs9S)
(https://i.ibb.co/sqRm10y/mikey-s-pipes-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9Wg84Fs)
I anneal the brass again and then sand and clean the inside of the tabs so they can be soldered. Then I press and tap the proper diameter drill into the sheet to form the pipe. When almost closed, I squeeze it in the vice using the drill as a mandrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/fXBYH3z/mikey-s-pipes-5.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/RbXH5vN/mikey-s-pipes-6.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Next, I drip flux between the tabs and lay on a strip of solder and sweat it into the joint.
(https://i.ibb.co/pyXbghr/mikey-s-pipes-7.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Pipes don't have to be soldered but it keeps them tightly closed as I work on them. All of the pipes are octagon with decorative round collars at the ends. Some careful filing with flat and triangular files is all that is needed. I don't mark things out or use any jigs. I just file by eye.
(https://i.ibb.co/s2Yq6N5/mikey-s-pipes-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tk3tb7K)
(https://i.ibb.co/MVVdsVW/mikey-s-pipes-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4TTk7T9)
(https://i.ibb.co/HzvghyB/mikey-s-pipes-10.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
The pipe in the photos is the rear pipe and it has a filed extension to the rear to attach the tang. I cut the tang off a 3/8" cast fowler pipe. The pipe itself does not go to waste because I can use it as a forward pipe on another gun on which I want 3/8" diameter round pipes.
(https://i.ibb.co/fHw0kL7/mikey-s-pipes-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9W5YbSj)
The round collar on the tang slips nicely over the rear extension on the 5/16" diameter sheet brass pipe and is soldered in place.
(https://i.ibb.co/Rc4kZQx/mikey-s-pipes-12.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
It is a very strong attachment and I clean up the pipe and file the tang to the shape and size I require.
(https://i.ibb.co/3CVbNyx/mikey-s-pipes-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DRmFCDB)
I finish up the pipes with files, stones, and sandpaper and I have a nice suite of 5 pipes for the Hawk fowler that match the original gun pretty closely. They will be polished up a bit more later but for now they are ready for inletting.
(https://i.ibb.co/ctqWj0r/mikey-s-pipes-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hH0GSbm)
(https://i.ibb.co/PjzRwg5/mikey-s-pipes-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NCnXZKL)
This is a challenging project because almost all of the components have to be fabricated from scratch or by greatly modifying commercial products.
dave
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I am coming to the conviction that you can really do magic ;)
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Thanks Bob,
I work hard at my craft. I inlet all the pipes today. I like doing pipes and these were easy with one caveat, which I will get to below. I don't use any router bits or cutters or jigs. Inletting these pipes is so straight forward and simple. The basic method is I mark the extent of the tab on the stock.
(https://i.ibb.co/W3sq1n0/mikey-s-pipes-16.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then I mark a center line in the ramrod groove for that tab and drill a series of holes.
(https://i.ibb.co/JRByq5v/mikey-s-pipes-17.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDV8Y59)
Then I cut out the slot using a small flat chisel and a saw I made from a needle file.
(https://i.ibb.co/QdSR36y/mikey-s-pipes-18.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FVZMLBR)
(https://i.ibb.co/C2dSGbh/mikey-s-pipes-19.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dg9HYPG)
At that point the pipe can sit down on the stock and I can trace the outline.
(https://i.ibb.co/1R0w5PG/mikey-s-pipes-21.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5s1fySh)
I stab in the ends with a tiny flat chisel and remove wood for the decorative collars at the ends of the pipe with a tiny gouge. Then is is just gouge work to set the pipe in. Sometimes I need inletting black but often I don't.
(https://i.ibb.co/zGCBtS7/mikey-s-pipes-22.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ch4YSnM)
The rear pipe was straight forward and the tang went in easy as I inlet both the pipe and tang simultaneously.
(https://i.ibb.co/SPXLwzw/mikey-s-pipes-23.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7XJ9tqt)
However, because of a large step in the diameter of the barrel at this point in the stock, the web of wood is very narrow and the tab on the rear pipe is very small. The ramrod groove and hole follow the outside profile of the barrel rather than the bore. As a result, the web of wood is thicker forward of the rear pipe and behind it. However, at that pipe the groove intersects a thin spot caused by the transition in the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/7W31bxG/mikey-s-pipes-25.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Yk5Lb4t)
The pin hole has to be drilled with no room for error. In these situations, I drill the hole through the pipe where I want it. Then I measure its location accurately on the stock. When I drill the stock, I want the drill to catch in the hole pre-drilled in the pipe as a guide. It works very well but only if you have removed a lot of excess wood off the stock so you are not drilling a long hole and that you squared the stock so you can measure accurately.
(https://i.ibb.co/DLRJxn8/mikey-s-pipes-26.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4JVq6xY)
(https://i.ibb.co/7SZ0WfJ/mikey-s-pipes-27.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
No milling machines, jigs, drilling guides, etc needed, just some basic skills.
dave
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That ramrod measurement formula was great! I hadn’t heard of that before but I’ll use it in the future. Thank you Dave.
W
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Hi Wayne,
You are welcome. I always round up so the measurements incorporate a little extra room.
dave
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Dave,
I can't tell you how helpful your detailed tutorials are -- I have pages on pages of screenshots saved to my computer. I'm going to give that rear ramrod pipe fabrication a shot on my next build... thank you!
- Tom
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Hi Guys,
More done. The lock is fully inlet and so is the trigger and trigger plate. I do not immediately pin my triggers after installing them and their plates. I wait until I am sure the lower profile of the stock is what I want. With the trigger loose but in place, I can determine LOP and the position of the butt plate but I am not committed to the final profile of the bottom of the stock. On this gun, that profile is critical so I am in no rush to permanently attach the trigger. Indeed, as I progressed I inlet the trigger plate deeper 4 times. I have the dimensions of the original gun but my components are not a perfect match. In particular, my lock is a little thinner so to get the look right, I have to adjust the bottom profile of the original stock. I leave my options for shaping open until the very last moment. Here is the gun at the moment.
(https://i.ibb.co/zftxyJS/Mikey-rough-stock-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2KphDNj)
(https://i.ibb.co/hdhgDDP/Mikey-rough-stock-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VCrL227)
(https://i.ibb.co/gvVjDDw/rough-stock-mike-s-version-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FsVxBBJ)
As you can see, it is a complicated style and it is every bit as difficult to produce as any Lehigh Valley rifle. The Hawk fowler is one of the greatest New England made guns that has survived. It is easily the match for any gun by Earle, White, or Pomeroy. There is no margin for error. The lock mortise is a case in point. The lock is attached with 3 bolts much like the French buccaneer guns. In fact, I believe the original lock could have been from a good quality buccaneer. The name "Palan" ,which means "hoist" in French, on the lock is a family name common around the location of the Tulle manufactury. Tulle made its name making buccaneer muskets before it was known for fusil de chasses. Anyway, the 3 bolts do not have much room in the lock mortise.
(https://i.ibb.co/cF07fMw/Mikey-rough-stock-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pzc9VGQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/rZhdkhY/Mikey-rough-stock-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/30bR1b2)
I do not know the shape of the mainspring on the original lock but I have to work with the modern product and it requires very tight tolerances if I am going to replicate the original side plate, which determines the positions of the lock bolt holes. It will all work out.
The web of wood separating the barrel channel from the ramrod groove and hole is only 0.14" at the muzzle. That means the ramrod groove must follow the profile of the outside of the barrel on the original gun otherwise it would break into the barrel channel near the breech. I assumed that but the tolerances are really tight. There is very little room for the ramrod pipe and barrel pins. I made my pins from 1/16" diameter spring steel rod. Fitting them was a real challenge, particularly for the barrel lugs. I dovetailed the rear lug and soldered the rest and drilled them all for 1/16" pins. On the rear lug, I ground a groove in the base so the pin would be as close to the barrel as possible. There is no extra space to do otherwise.
(https://i.ibb.co/48ss7TB/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Mc88sVq)
I also predrilled the other lugs.
(https://i.ibb.co/L8KDkm4/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R98GvfL)
The result was very good when I drilled for the pins.
(https://i.ibb.co/zbVDh1Q/mikey-s-barrel-inlet-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hHFwRkL)
More to come,
dave
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I love the gun’s profile.
It’s interesting how quite a few New England fowlers seem to have such a nice French flavor to them.
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Hi Folks,
I was down for most of a week after getting my Covid 19 vaccine. It whacked me pretty hard but I am back to normal. The Hawk fowler is one of the hardest guns I've ever made. There are no components you can buy that can simply be used. Everything has to be modified extensively or made from scratch. I think I could make 2-3 other guns from rough blanks or 25 Kibler kits in the time required for this one gun. My next challenge is the butt plate. I bought a wax cast French trade gun butt plate that will provide the base. I peened and stretched it longer and wider. Then I reshaped the heel of the plate and cut off the forward finial to be replaced by one matching the Hawk fowler. To make that finial, I had to cast it. First I scaled a photo of the original finial and traced its outline and details. Then I shaped a piece of hard maple and glued a little handle on the under side. Holding the maple blank and handle in a vise, I traced the return on to the wood using graphite paper.
(https://i.ibb.co/sPhX3Tm/mikey-butt-plate-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n0TKkXg)
(https://i.ibb.co/X2wgnP1/mikey-butt-plate-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j6p2CYm)
Then I carved the tang in 3D relief.
(https://i.ibb.co/BBzqRZd/mikey-butt-plate-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7KY2FW8)
(https://i.ibb.co/LhKnBM4/mikey-butt-plate-4.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I cut off the handle and trimmed away the excess wood so I could use the carving as my model for casting. I used Delft clay to make a 2-piece mold, melted brass in my oven and poured the casting.
(https://i.ibb.co/64xt2ws/mikey-butt-plate-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fC5NbF0)
(https://i.ibb.co/HNT4fhg/mikey-butt-plate-6.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I also cast the front finial for the trigger guard, for which I had an existing suitable model from my previous Hawk fowler.
(https://i.ibb.co/k9WCjX0/mikey-butt-plate-7.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Now I need to trim the castings, glue them to a base, and then chisel the details and polish them. After that, I will show how I construct the parts.
dave
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Real dedication and resourcefulness!
-
Wonderful, that's about all I can say....
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It is really Great that you have taken the time to do the write-up and photograph the process. It is, to say the least Very well done and has to add hours to your shop time. "Top Shelf" work Dave, Thank You.
Tim
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Hi and thank you all,
I appreciate your comments and encouragement. I love the detail work and casting, chasing and sculpting metal are tasks I love to do. It adds a lot to my scope of creative expression and a feeling of self sufficiency. I had a lot of distractions today that kept me from the project. It is getting near the muzzleloading deer season in Vermont and as usual, I have a string of desperate friends coming over because their muzzleloaders don't work as well as they should and they haven't shot them since last deer season. I love them all dearly but I wish they would prepare for the season better. Anyway, I still managed some work on the Hawk fowler. I leave part of the sprue on the casting because it serves as a useful handle to hold the piece in vises. The first job is trimming the edges using a jeweler's saw, grinder, and files. Once that is done I can start refining the finial.
(https://i.ibb.co/N1tpXZH/mikey-butt-plate-8.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I use die sinker's chisels to cut and sculpt details.
(https://i.ibb.co/pWpwMFW/mikey-butt-plate-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZHCXFDH)
In addition, I use needle files and rifflers to smooth and shape surfaces.
(https://i.ibb.co/vhX2zMC/mikey-butt-plate-10.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
You can see the detailed relief forming.
(https://i.ibb.co/SxP4qbX/mikey-butt-plate-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LP8X4mz)
I will finish it tomorrow and then take a break to visit family for Thanksgiving. I frequently mention my Vermont family, which includes my neighbors and friends. It is a wide net that includes really great people. Some years ago, two of them visited my shop and this was the conversation. I'll identify them only as "H" and "D".
H and D arrive at my shop for a visit while delivering an upright piano to the Braintree town hall. H gets out of the truck and starts telling me about his morning in a strong New England accent;
H - "I get up at forahh (4) every mawnin' (morning) and go down stayahs (stairs) to make my coffee. I do it every mawnin' and make noise just to !$@! everyone off. So I am drinkin' ma coffee and I look outside, and the cows was chewin' and licken' the baahn (barn) walls! I thought, $@#&^* why was the cows chewin' on the baahn? My son, Kobey comes down stayahs and I told him the cows was chewin' on the barn. He told me I was seeing things and I got mad."
D- "Well H you never know what you are going to see. Remember those guys in Buuurlington selling cans filled with Vermont ayha (air) to the flatlanders?"
H- "Yeaaah, and remember those guys painting moose nuggets and selling them as jewelry? And then there's old Chaahley (Charley)."
D- " Chaahley?"
H- "You remember him! He made really good pine furniture and then beat it with hammers and chains so it looked antique. Then he sold it to tourists at premium prices".
D- "Oh I remember Chaahley. He was smooth as a pane of glass but sharper than a broken shard."
dave
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You are a jewelry maker, as well :D
It's an ear-opener to hear strong dialects in the various regions of the country.
For the life of me, I could not understand much of anything someone was saying to me and my neighbor/friend while we were buying wood at the lumberyard.
My neighbor laughed at me when I said so later.
You just gotta grow ears, is all.
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Hi Folks,
Not a big post. I went south to PA for the Thanksgiving holiday and got back home during the weekend. During the trip, I spent most of Friday driving to Dave Keck's place to drop off 4 gun projects for him to inlet the barrels and ramrods. I was too tired from driving so much that I got little done on Sunday when I got back and then we were hit with a wet snow storm Sunday night that knocked out power until late Monday. Anyway, I was back at it today. I started inletting the butt plate. This is a very complex and ornate buttplate but my strategy makes it much easier. By making the ornate tang finial separate from the rest of the butt plate, I can inlet the base of the plate easily.
(https://i.ibb.co/Gx1nX5d/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bWyQxK6)
(https://i.ibb.co/s56xqpL/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-2.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then I can attach the forward finial and inlet it as a separate process.
(https://i.ibb.co/yP1Thjn/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
That makes the process so much easier. The finial will be attached to the butt plate base with a brass spline soldered underneath. A lug with rivet will then be drilled and peened into the joint creating a lug for the cross pin anchoring the top of the butt plate. Then the finial will be inlet straight down into the stock. On this gun there is no screw anchoring the butt plate at the heel. There is just the cross pin for the tang and a screw in the toe of the butt plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/WGkVbWN/Hawkes-fowler-buttplate-return.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HBthWDL)
(https://i.ibb.co/vB7x6kT/Hawkes-fowler-buttplate.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W3bW4fM)
dave
-
most interesting.... as always.
-
Well done. Seems similar to watching episodes of Bob Ross painting. :)
-
It looks like it will be a perfect copy of the original.
-
That’s clever
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Hi Dave,
Your work is just as stunning as usual, if not even more so now I'm away and not bugging you in the shop nearly everyday!. I am very bummed to have missed the heating and beating that went into the making of this lovely buttplate but I cannot wait to see the final product of the entire gun. Keep plugging away and thank you so much for your well written explanations and updates on your work! The life of a college student is made much better from reading this thread.
-Your apprentice (who longs to be back at the shop)
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I have to say your level of tenacity at not 'settling' on what comes to hand is quite beyond the pale. Thank you for posting and describing blow by blow these different challenges and fixes for the rest of us. It surely must eat up a lot of shop time.
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Hi Folks,
Thank you all for your interest and comments. This is a very complex project and I need my entire tool box of skills and methods to do it.
Hello Maria! I am so glad you chimed in and I cannot wait to see you at Fort Ticonderoga next week. It will be fun to see more of their collection of muskets with Matt Keagle. Good luck with your finals and the Xmas break is soon. Hopefully you will be back in the shop for some of it. We have a lot of work to do. Winter is here, Maria, and it is beautiful at the shop!
(https://i.ibb.co/d4B4xKG/winter-Nov-2023-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fdMdL04)
(https://i.ibb.co/QJ948vF/winter-Nov-2023-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0nqxByj)
I finished assembling the parts for the butt plate. First, I inlet the base of the plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/XWYQDV6/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-4.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/Khhqd9g/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-5.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Next, I made a spline from sheet brass and soldered the finial to the base.
(https://i.ibb.co/C9Ykmbc/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-6.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/71svGVY/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5RbT5vM)
Then I made a lug for the anchoring cross pin with a threaded post, drilled the butt plate and tapped the hole. I countersunk the top of the hole, threaded the lug in place and then peened the excess into the counter sink.
(https://i.ibb.co/rys4c2h/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dKgGL4v)
(https://i.ibb.co/x7hPnNw/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gRyH0xQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/DVbXGhH/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tmhfZgT)
When peening the post, I have to be careful not to damage the cast finial. Consequently, I use a two hammer technique. I hold the ball of a small ball peen hammer on the post and strike it with another hammer. That prevents glancing and rebounding blows damaging the finial. With the lug in place, I am ready to inlet the finial.
(https://i.ibb.co/VYCnhh3/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-12.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/F58gHQ7/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-7.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
dave
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Hi Folks,
The butt plate is in. I cannot do it any better than this.
(https://i.ibb.co/Wxn79JY/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K06BZv3)
(https://i.ibb.co/YP2JKfd/mikey-butt-plate-inlet-14.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
As I wrote previously, the plate is anchored by the cross pin under the return and a screw near the toe. Those are sufficient to pull it in nice and tight to the stock. I used a 3/32" pin for a bit of extra strength. Eventually, the decorative portion of the tang (return) will sit very proud of the wood surface. I may file the tops of the edges down to meet the wood. Then I will final finish and detail the finial. Next up is shaping the butt stock. The next time you see this gun it will look very different. You can see the forestock is very slim. Actually, it is still pretty pregnant but I will not slim it further until I am ready to carve the double bead borders along the barrel and ramrod channels. I need to fabricate the trigger guard and side plate. I'll do that soon.
(https://i.ibb.co/d7YHLQN/Mikey-rough-stock-12.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/tZZxQqz/Mikey-rough-stock-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbbCk6w)
dave
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Hmm- some pictures not showing last couple days, including pictures I have seen in the posts prior to this.
My computer gets shut down every night and re-started every morning.
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Hi Folks,
I had a fun day. I am always excited when I start shaping the butt stock of any gun, turning the rough square lines into pleasing contours. I have a tendency to waste time adjusting and tweaking stock profiles when all is still squared up. It took time for me to learn to trust my plans, drawings, and tracings and put off fussing about the profiles until I actually start 3D shaping the stock. In the process of shaping, it is incredibly helpful if you have the final image of the gun clearly in mind and can see the final gun in your stock blank. That requires a lot of experience and becomes easier if you make the same style guns over and over again. I jump all over the board with styles so I am constantly in learning and SEEING mode. Everyone can look and examine things but not everyone sees them. You can look at a painting that pleases you but seeing it is focusing on the uses of color, brush technique, and how they are integrated that makes the work so appealing. The Hawk fowler is a subtle masterpiece and is as hard to "see" and execute as any Lehigh Valley rifle.
(https://i.ibb.co/931LQhq/Mikey-rough-stock-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Hpbs5Cr)
(https://i.ibb.co/94DT1rg/Mikey-rough-stock-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GM6285p)
(https://i.ibb.co/7Xm26px/Mikey-rough-stock-16.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZVDWkgR)
I roughed out the stock contours today. They will be refined greatly as I proceed but you can see the elegance of the gun. Despite the apparent straight wrist, it shoulders very well and should be a very comfortable shooter.
There is no one way to do this initial shaping. I've watched Ian Pratt use a hatchet to precisely carve out a rough butt stock. Others use draw knives and spoke shaves. I use a selection of gouges and shallow sweeps powered by my brass headed mallet to rough out the stock.
(https://i.ibb.co/sF2kX2h/stock-shaping-tools-1.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then I use pattern maker's rasps. In the photo below are a coarse sapphire cabinet makers rasp and a gunsmith's rasp by Liogier. Below them is an Auriel medium cut pattern maker's rasp and finally a fine cut Dragon rasp. These are invaluable tools. The long gunsmiths rasp allows easy shaping of the butt stock because it can span the length of the stock without your hand hitting the butt plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/frDy5Mm/Mikey-rough-stock-17.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r5dzSkn)
I also use scrapers and round files.
(https://i.ibb.co/J5W7Xc9/stock-shaping-tools-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TmD8zws)
Here is the original gun so you can see where I am heading.
(https://i.ibb.co/VWYThgg/Hawkes-fowler-butt-stock.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pvjdsff)
dave
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Thanks for the informative post, that is looking great.
Somebody should video Ian and his hatchet technique ;D ;)
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Hi,
Any time you can watch Ian Pratt work, you will be awed and learn a lot. More shaping done. I am converging on the final shape but I do it slowly. You can take wood off but it is hard to put it back. The bottom arc of the butt stock will be smoothed a little more but I will leave it for now.
(https://i.ibb.co/QCzBnDS/Mikey-rough-stock-18.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vQg5mXy)
(https://i.ibb.co/3mWq3Zf/Mikey-rough-stock-19.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Sw08jCQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/Xj3zk3m/Mikey-rough-stock-20.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rFcZfcn)
I started rounding the forestock and you can see how slim and tapered it is. All the components are packed really tightly. There is no extra room.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZGP6VQy/Mikey-rough-stock-21.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fq5Y23m)
Now I have to turn this commercial French trigger guard and cast finial
(https://i.ibb.co/ct26CzZ/Mikey-trigger-guard-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pZ4fRCM)
into this:
(https://i.ibb.co/1ngNmPc/Hawkes-fowler-triggerguard-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sPf4VN7)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZKx7HZ6/Hawkes-fowler-triggerguard-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6bFLvdR)
dave
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Hi,
More done. It seems for this winter, Monday is "power outage day". For the second consecutive weekend, wet snow on Sunday night causes power to go down. Our linemen are terrific but the power infrastructure is decrepit in many places. This is the 12th power outage lasting at least most of a day that we've experienced this year. Ironically, my shop with all its windows is well illuminated during daylight particularly during winter. The low angle sunlight shines in more brightly during winter than in summer. So I got work done even before the power came back on. I did more finishing of the stock including at the rear pipe.
(https://i.ibb.co/VNPd8Tb/Mikey-rough-stock-22.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hMtkvVr)
The slimness and elegance of the gun is becoming apparent.
(https://i.ibb.co/RpvjF1D/Mikey-rough-stock-23.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jv6JNdr)
(https://i.ibb.co/8Krc8Dn/Mikey-rough-stock-24.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Lkx5pzD)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y2mqcxB/Mikey-rough-stock-25.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XX1v7qx)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kxz7hpD/Mikey-rough-stock-28.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/r29h2Fd/Mikey-rough-stock-29.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMpyM6P)
(https://i.ibb.co/pQq2NZ7/Mikey-rough-stock-30.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I had a problem. I installed a pin to hold the barrel at the lug nearest the muzzle. Stupid me, the barrel was not fully seated because of a wood chip but I did not notice. The pin would not go in so I figured maybe the wood had moved because of low humidity and colder air. So I tried running a drill through the hole to clear things up and it came out the other side too high because the barrel was not fully seated in the stock. So stupid. Anyway, I filled the misdrilled hole and will show how I hide that kind of mistake in a later post.
(https://i.ibb.co/7NDBVgN/Mikey-rough-stock-27.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFKdtvF)
You can see there is not much wood on the sides of the stock along the barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/qF7Phtk/Mikey-rough-stock-26.jpg) (https://ibb.co/prb9NtJ)
Even this will get thinner but after I cut the double beaded moldings along the top of the barrel channel and the ramrod groove. I worked preparing the trigger guard for inletting. There are no commercial guards that match the original so like the butt plate, I employ a strategy of reshaping a commercial product and add cast detail based on the original gun. Here is the what I start with.
(https://i.ibb.co/r75KXP4/Mikey-trigger-guard-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qymL2Gk)
And here is my progress modifying it.
(https://i.ibb.co/GW626kC/Mikey-trigger-guard-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fkgpgtr)
(https://i.ibb.co/YtcsWvm/Mikey-trigger-guard-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vJ3nB2p)
(https://i.ibb.co/wNvgqgG/Mikey-trigger-guard-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccm393f)
I've been skilled with files since I was 10 years old. My Dad taught me.
dave
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If you ever have the interest (and time) for making a video production, that would be something to see :)
I am wondering what part of a gun build you favor most (if any). For me, I would guess this part, as the final shape starts to really evolve.
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Hi Bob,
Thanks Bob, I try to fill that educational role with my many and varied posts. As you know, I cover a very wide range of guns from New England fowlers, American long rifles, British sporting guns, and military guns. Yes, getting near the end when I shape the final form and do the decorative work. A lot of the previous work is just grunt work, which is why I have little desire to make plain simple guns. They are all work and little fun and don't interest me much at all.
dave
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Hi,
I inlet the trigger guard without the front finial. I'll sculpt and polish it and then attach it to the trigger guard but the rest of guard gets inlet first. I also pinned the trigger. INlet the front of the guard first, pin it and then inlet the rear working in stages backward. As the guard settles into the wood there is a tendency for the rear to migrate forward. This guard has swells so it cannot migrate forward or move at all. Consequently, I worked backward and set the guard in slowly.
(https://i.ibb.co/rkG0Yh6/Mikey-trigger-guard-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kKgBjT8)
(https://i.ibb.co/WtS3vTs/Mikey-trigger-guard-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5Fq9h72)
(https://i.ibb.co/x15TrDk/Mikey-trigger-guard-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hB8zTy6)
dave
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Hi,
Finished constructing and inletting the trigger guard. It will need some surface sculpting and cleaning up but I installed the front finial and then trimmed all the edges so it could be inlet. It came out very well. You can see the tab cast on the finial that serves as the spline connecting the parts. It offers a lot of surface area creating a strong solder joint. I used low temp silver bearing solder (Stay Bright), which is plenty strong for the purpose.
(https://i.ibb.co/BPKCqYw/Mikey-trigger-guard-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n08LzKR)
Once soldered, I final shaped and cleaned up the edges, and inlet it.
(https://i.ibb.co/G3J3D4W/Mikey-trigger-guard-8.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/XtDVZcx/Mikey-trigger-guard-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4p2JZhR)
Next up is making the brass side plate and the silver wrist plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/BjkH72g/Hawkes-fowler-sideplate-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k0ZVr2h)
(https://i.ibb.co/MsbR9Ft/Hawkes-fowler-tang-carving.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2ywj5GC)
dave
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Hi Folks,
I got a bit done but I have to remake the side plate. I don't have an exact tracing of the original but that would not help because the lock is a little smaller than the original and the lock bolt spacing differs a little. I cut out a design that I thought looked right and used it as a template to saw out sheet brass. But when I shaped the plate and then put it on the stock, it doesn't look right. I have to go back to the drawing board to create something that captures the shape and details of the original but is sized for the lock. I'll get it right and I'll be able to use the side plate I made for something else. Anyway, I refined the stock a little more, shortening the comb and making the wrist longer based on dimensions of the original. It is really starting to look right but I have to get the side plate proportioned just right to look like the original.
(https://i.ibb.co/WcqzjdW/Mikey-rough-stock-31.jpg) (https://ibb.co/THp0dnB)
(https://i.ibb.co/0MfkhrW/Mikey-rough-stock-32.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NjLXZKk)
(https://i.ibb.co/28j7KTV/Mikey-rough-stock-33.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M8RDNmw)
(https://i.ibb.co/0j0CD2g/Mikey-rough-stock-34.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XZn72Lh)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kx0fzbc/Mikey-rough-stock-35.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
dave
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Hi,
Well I made a second side plate and it looks about right. It is a little tough making it look exactly like the original because the original lock is taller at the bolster and the original barrel is bigger at the breech. Consequently, the spacing of the lock bolts is different. I made the Tulle lock taller by welding on steel but I could not recreate the full height of the original because that would have brought the top of the bolster up almost as high as the top of the fence on the pan. There is only so much I can do to copy the original. Anyway, the plate looks right for the gun and is close to the original.
(https://i.ibb.co/WtBgy6Q/mikey-side-plate-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fvr4p2b)
(https://i.ibb.co/hML807m/mikey-side-plate-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JdmkZBs)
dave
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Hi Folks,
What a weather roller coaster again this year. High temps and heavy rain and then a plunge below freezing, snow, and then rising temperatures again. At least this time we didn't lose power. This is the kind of winter weather I left behind in Ketchikan, Alaska.
(https://i.ibb.co/WGtXVsb/winter-2023-a.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RYyKj7x)
These are the first pictures with my new camera. I told my brother, Nils, I needed a new digital camera. That was calculated because I knew he would take that on as a mission, do incredible homework, and get me exactly what I needed. He sent me a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ300 as an early Xmas present and it is perfect. I have the best brother in the world. Here is my first "portrait" photo of Smart Dog 2 (Willow).
(https://i.ibb.co/ChPLNgp/willow-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jgJtBm9)
I started carving around the trigger guard and lock panels. The Hawk fowler has a unique carving feature not duplicated on any known New England gun. There are beautiful volutes that terminate the moldings around the front of the lock and side plate on the bottom. There is also a carved molding around the trigger guard. This is not easy to execute in cherry because the moldings are fragile. I would think nothing of it if I was carving sugar maple or English walnut but cherry is not very strong and crisp, delicate edges often crumble. Anyway, the work is going well but I have to be very careful and my tools scary sharp.
(https://i.ibb.co/vkX9hqY/mikey-lock-panel-carving-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7KkhQC4)
(https://i.ibb.co/3chp7xf/mikey-lock-panel-carving-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NKY9s01)
(https://i.ibb.co/tMJGYBd/mikey-lock-panel-carving-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wNzkpyv)
(https://i.ibb.co/0jWTGbq/mikey-lock-panel-carving-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z6w5MDd)
dave
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Hi,
More done today. I had the pleasure of my friend Josh's company today. He filed and sanded lock castings for a long land Brown Bess and an Elliot carbine. For those who don't remember Josh, he is blind and we posted "Building Blind several years ago. I carved the outlines and background for most of the decorative carving and moldings.
(https://i.ibb.co/zGvCPzy/mikey-fine-stocking-3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/WpGRQ4X/mikey-fine-stocking-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFbPmVK)
(https://i.ibb.co/pdgt6MY/mikey-fine-stocking-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7KHwxZs)
(https://i.ibb.co/g9C0crw/mikey-fine-stocking-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C8FjSwv)
It is all still a bit rough and I will be cleaning up the background and edges later after cutting the raised beads along the barrel channel and ramrod groove. To do those, I use a cutter I made and installed in my old antique marking gauge.
(https://i.ibb.co/j3zz9p2/mikey-fine-stocking-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HGCCLJs)
That cuts the initial lines and then I go back and deepen them with a checkering tool. Then I remove background along the bead with a dog leg chisel and bottoming file to give the bead some relief.
(https://i.ibb.co/ftswynY/mikey-fine-stocking-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/y5rjZYn)
Then I go back over the beads with the marking gauge cutter to round over the tops. There will be beaded moldings along the top of the barrel channel and along the ramrod groove.
(https://i.ibb.co/Tw44XMG/finished-bead-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QJPPBvV)
I did one side and then asked Josh if he would like to try the other side. I set him up and away he went. He did the job perfectly.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/FgrLRTT/mikey-fine-stocking-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/72fdsmm)
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Looks great. These New England guns can sort of grow on you.
Jim
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Hi,
I got all of the moldings along the barrel and ramrod channel done. It was a challenge and especially so because as I cut I wondered when I was getting to the end. The barrel is so long. Anyway, it came out well.
(https://i.ibb.co/b6hPFGj/mikey-fine-stocking-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3TX7vP5)
(https://i.ibb.co/WzY593w/mikey-fine-stocking-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/T0F2XTS)
I had to also work on a Brown Bess so tomorrow I'll get back to the fowler.
dave
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That’s really nice. Those perfectly straight molding lines are really tough to do. Really nice.
W
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Dave, I'm sure sharing your work and execution is inspiring to others here, it certainly is to me. Pre-drilling a hole in a rr pipe and hitting it while drilling through the wood is beyond my comprehension.
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Hi,
Thank you Jim and Wayne. This is one of the hardest guns I've built. So much has to fabricated and there are so many details. Tom, drilling through predrilled holes in barrel lugs and pipes is not hard as long as you have trimmed off most of the wood so the depth of drilling not very deep. That way any deviation of the drill does not matter much because you are so close to the target. Secondly, if your trimmed stock is still squared up so you can make accurate measurements where the hole should go, that along with shallow drilling depth solves all the problems.
dave
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Hi,
My apprentice, Maria, was in the shop today and I had her start carving the last molding along the forestock. On the ramrod channel, we cannot resort directly to using the scratch stock on the marking gauge because of the angle of the wood. So we cut a single line using the gauge for the upper edge of the molding.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZWg4FHg/mikey-fine-stocking-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rz6rsh6)
Then deepen the line with a 60 degree checkering tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/P4ymK74/mikey-fine-stocking-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HYyF6WY)
Then we use a skip line checkering tool at 16 lines per inch to cut the parallel center line.
(https://i.ibb.co/P4ymK74/mikey-fine-stocking-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HYyF6WY)
Then we deepen that line with the checkering tool and finally use the double beaded scratch stock to scrape the beaded shape into the parallel lines. I'll finish the job tomorrow. This is the first time Maria has used the checkering tool or done this type of task. She did very well.
dave
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Hi Folks,
Getting the stock finished. The forestock moldings are all done. They actually sit up in relief so are not simple lines. I final shaped much of the stock today but tomorrow I concentrate on the butt portion. It needs more clean up and definition. Very soon I will start the final finishing and whiskering of the stock. Cherry has such fine grain that it often needs some help to be interesting. So I will probably stain the stock black during whiskering. After scraping off the stain and whiskering the stock, black pigment will still be imbedded in the grain. That will act as a "drop shadow" giving the grain in wood a halo effect and make bland cherry come alive. Anyway, here is where I am. It is a slim, elegant gun.
(https://i.ibb.co/fqhv9Pn/mikey-fine-stocking-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hLPfctZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/cCW1rf4/mikey-fine-stocking-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3Mx7C6g)
(https://i.ibb.co/8BQKjv7/mikey-fine-stocking-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qn2yRqr)
(https://i.ibb.co/fpDc883/mikey-fine-stocking-16.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r6dWbbB)
(https://i.ibb.co/gjyTgkB/mikey-fine-stocking-17.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cgJFT47)
(https://i.ibb.co/KN1FBTx/mikey-fine-stocking-18.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XywS6cx)
dave
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Dave, your perseverance, attention to detail, and personal skills are astounding!
That fore end going on forever is astounding, and the carved duplex lines really set off the whole firearm. And I love the shape of the buttstock - it seems to come alive and wants to be held and used.
What, to you, has been the most tedious portion of the build so far?
Really appreciate you sharing this build so well. I've seen a lot of your builds, love 'em all!
-
Hi,
It's black!
(https://i.ibb.co/djzKr3m/mikey-fine-stocking-19.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/0VvH28p/mikey-fine-stocking-20.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tqd92pD)
The dilute black stain is Brownell's nigrosine aniline dye dissolved in water. It highlights the scratches and rough spots as well as embedding a little black pigment in the grain. When I eventually stain the cherry the black will give it a bit of a halo or glowing effect.
As I scrape the stain shows up the scratches.
(https://i.ibb.co/GWffyxC/mikey-fine-stocking-21.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wSZZV0p)
You can really see the shape of the hollows or fluting along the comb.
(https://i.ibb.co/YQL3Ws2/mikey-fine-stocking-22.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gp50JS7)
This photo of my previous version of this gun shows the color and effect I am going for.
(https://i.ibb.co/16yPrw3/finished-fowler-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tXjvqWS)
dave
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Hi Folks,
I had a bunch of more time limited work to get done so I put the fowler aside for a while. I also was struggling with the carving. It is a good piece of cherry but cherry is not a good carving wood. Anyway, I stepped back for a while until I was ready to have at it again. Fortunately, the carving on the original is simple and not what you see on high quality jaegers and long rifles stocked in maple or European walnut. It cuts easily with razor sharp tools but just does not preserve any crispness. But then the original doesn't either. Anyway, I roughed out all the details of all the carving. I need to come back and clean it up but I will do that after I inlet the silver wrist plate. I mingled the photos with those of the original gun.
(https://i.ibb.co/bJ5vfPz/carving-1.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/s23nqmN/Hawkes-fowler-barrel-tang-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HVg6qFb)
(https://i.ibb.co/j53Dkcr/carving-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pP4djtL)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZJ31Qcb/carving-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hMk1G2T)
(https://i.ibb.co/MfMzRk6/Hawkes-fowler-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1M8C9G6)
dave
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amazing talent and dedication. wish i had .01 percent of it. ;)
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Hi,
I made the wrist plate. None of the decorated hardware on this gun was made by any colonial New England gunsmith. No one in NE could make this stuff. It was all fine quality French export work. That was something Barnabas Mathis promoted and incorporated on his guns. He also promoted the French architecture used on this fowler. So to build this gun, I have to merge Mathis' talents and designs with high quality French work beyond the capabilities of any NE gun maker. There is nothing for this gun that you can buy stock and everything needs fabrication and refinement. That said, it is one of the greatest New England guns ever made so it is worth the effort. I cannot possibly make a bench copy because I don't have the original gun in my shop. That means I don't have complete information about all the details despite having examined the gun closely. Moreover, some of the features like engraving were obscured by centuries of patina (muck). In addition, I could not get such a long barrel with a breech almost 1 1/4" in diameter. I had to settle for less width. Anyway, I've dealt with all of that and the gun should be a treasure and very faithful to the original. I did not copy the original wrist plate. I don't like it very much and I cannot work out the engraving. With these kinds of inlays with complicated edges the engraving has to natch the design. I prefer to design the engraving and then design the escutcheon. The original has a slight oval domed center. I decided to accentuate that creating relief that looks like a cabuchon surrounded by a silver frame. I've never done this before so I made a hardwood form using a gouge.
(https://i.ibb.co/Ytsz3kh/mikey-thumb-plate-1.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/2qv75HZ/mikey-thumb-plate-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4W8ZJ31)
I annealed the 0.04" thick sterling silver sheet and tapped it into the form with a hardwood dowel rounded on the end.
(https://i.ibb.co/85f1C6L/mikey-thumb-plate-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ncYxGzN)
(https://i.ibb.co/yFdq65L/mikey-thumb-plate-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s9bqKQL)
Then I placed by card stock template over the raised oval and traced the outline
(https://i.ibb.co/Bg4cjjf/mikey-thumb-plate-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tbZQccH)
I cut out the outline with a jeweler's saw and cleaned up the edges with files. Then I annealed the silver and hand bent it to a metal cylinder slightly smaller than the diameter of the wrist on the gun. Remember, the bottom of any wrist plate mortise is smaller diameter than the wrist. If you don't grasp that, inletting wrist plates will always be difficult.
(https://i.ibb.co/Fn7XG4V/mikey-thumb-plate-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V3BxXYm)
The mortise for this plate is very shallow and I will inlet it then glue it in place with Acra Glas while I finish the gun. Then I will pop it off with heat and engrave it. After engraving, it will be reglued in the mortise and pinned. It will sit proud of the surface of the wood like the original.
dave
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Wow. In case ALR or Muzzloading Forum ever die off would be cool if you got with a publisher for printing. Would be a shame to lose all this. I guess my mind doesn't always work electronically
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To make a domed thingy like that you can get nice crisp edges by making the oval hole in a piece of mild steel flat plate, you can even bend the plate to the shape of the wrist before hammering the dome in.
-
Hi,
Thank you JH. I will try that the next time I do this. I did not like the plate. After looking at it on the gun it was too large, too narrow for its length, the dome was too pronounced, and the metal thickness too thin to inlet easily. So I scrapped it and made another using thicker silver. I made a new design that looks better on the gun.
(https://i.ibb.co/8zqvVxh/mikey-thumb-plate-7.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/KNLgvQX/mikey-thumb-plate-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hXZNzny)
The previous plate is closer to the original but it just does not fit the space well. My curve of the top of the wrist is narrower than the original just behind the lock panels. That is because the breech of the barrel is a bit smaller diameter than the original. So on the original, the width of the wrist is wider right behind the lock panel then narrows toward the comb. In my case, the wrist is narrower behind the lock because of the barrel and maintains that width to the comb such that at the comb, the width is identical to the original. Consequently, the original design does not fit well at all. My new design is far better and will fit the space as well as inlet much more easily. I glued it to a curved surface of wood and am going to engrave it before inletting it. It will sit proud of the wood a little and will be glued and pinned in place.
The original fowler was built for John Hawks (1707-1784) a resident of Deerfield, MA. He was the commanding sergeant at Fort Massachusetts in North Adams, MA when it was besieged by French and indian troops during August 1746. The garrison number 30 (including several women and children) under Hawks and the attackers were close to 1,000. They held out bravely until their ammunition was gone. Then they agreed to terms from the French, surrendered, and were taken as captives to Canada. Half of them died enroute but they were treated well by the French and one woman even gave birth during their trek north. Hawks was well regarded by his captors because of his intelligence, bravery, and care of his soldiers and their families during captivity. The commander of the French and Canadian troops was General de Vaudreuil, who became the royal leader of New France during its last years and the French and Indian War. Based on eyewitness accounts, he was impressed with Hawks and treated him very well. Hawks was exchanged in short time and became a valuable diplomat working to keep communications going between New France and Massachusetts as tensions ramped up again prior to the F&I War. Hawks was a patriot during the Rev War and died in 1784. He was clearly a man who you wanted in command when things were not going well. What has this to do with the Hawks fowler. The quality of the French hardware is beyond anything typical of New England guns. I suspect that Sergeant John Hawks was given a gift by the French of a high quality civilian gun before 1750 and that those components were restocked
by Barnabas Mathis to become the Hawks fowler sometime during or after the F&I war.
dave
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Dave, I agree with you wholeheartedly that this latest wrist plate iteration looks much better on the gun than the earlier one you posted. Glad you settled on it. The Hawks story is quite fascinating, and your thoughts on how the gun came into being are quite plausible.
Such a beautiful fowler!!
Jennison.
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Hi,
Finished engraving the wrist plate. It is my design but inspired by several French plates. It is all ready for inletting.
(https://i.ibb.co/yQ0Fz7g/mikey-thumb-plate-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0Gqy0vY)
(https://i.ibb.co/8YRKTms/mikey-thumb-plate-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PDbm3rj)
dave
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Complicated, Dave, but a lovely outcome. Never saw a raised dome on a decorative piece such as that.
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Very beautiful work Dave!!!
-
Magnifique!
Jennison
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Hi,
Thanks everyone for looking and commenting! I am getting my inertia back on this project. I have so much competing work at the moment that my focus on it suffered the last month or so. I really do love the gun but it is demanding at every step. There is no point at which I can relax. Even final scraping and sanding requires intense focus because I am always sanding or scraping between carved features like the moldings along the forestock and around the trigger guard and lock panels. The reward is that when done, the Hawks fowler is one of the most beautiful and high quality New England guns ever made. It is definitely in the top 5 of all surviving NE guns made during colonial times of which I have seen.
I inlet the thumb plate. Despite the weakness of cherry, it inlet well and I left it slightly proud of the wood surface as was the original.
(https://i.ibb.co/rkTTTTg/mikey-thumb-plate-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TcppppZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/jM7C03g/mikey-thumb-plate-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C7xjCVh)
I glued it in place with Acra Glas but also tacked in 3 silver pins. I designed the plate so that the 2 pins iin the upper shoulders of the plate are part of the engraved design. Remember these photos:
(https://i.ibb.co/YTmDG61/mikey-thumb-plate-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0VTB3k6)
(https://i.ibb.co/7zDrqLz/mikey-thumb-plate-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/H2yGj32)
You can see the round circles engraved with the volutes at the shoulders. Those are the locations for the upper 2 pins and then I needed one lower pin below the oval cabuchon. I drill the tiny holes with a #1 drill while the plate is still glued to the wood base used during engraving. Then I pop the inlay off the wood using heat and position it on the stock. I tape it securely in place with Scotch tape. Then I tap tiny brass nails into the holes. I hold the tiny nails with a surgical forceps and tap them in part way. Then I trace around the plate with a very sharp pencil with two sides of the point flattened like a carpenter's pencil. After tracing, I pull the tacks with pliers, remove the plate, and stab in the border of the mortise with tiny chisels. After back cutting the edges of the mortise, I remove the center wood with a shallow gouge sufficient to let the plate set down partially into the mortise. Then I work the edges of the mortise along the sides because as the plate sets down, those edges have to move down the sides of the stock. It is a fiddly dance of blackening the plate and removing the wood.
When the plate is in, I redrill the holes for the tacking nails a little deeper and slightly counter sink the holes. Then I make silver nails to replace them. I use tiny silver wire and straighten a section, then thread it with a 0-72 die. The threads will capture the wood and glue in their holes. I clip a section as long as I need with jeweler's clippers, which automatically gives the pin a point. I line the mortise with Acra Glas tinted close to what the color of the finished wood, install the plate and tap it into place hard with a wooden mallet, and then tap in the silver nails. I clip the extra nail off about 1/8" above the plate and peen the excess down carefully into the counter sinks. I want these nails to show so I did not file them completely flush with the silver plate.
More to come.
dave
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Hi,
Staining and the first coat of finish are always milestone events for me. I cleaned up the stock and the carving. On light colored wood like cherry, you really need to see the stock under low angle light to see the rough spots. Then I stained the wood. I don't care for lye as a stain for cherry because it is usually a gamble. Often the color is too dark and cherry will darken naturally with age. I prefer aniline dyes for cherry and mix my own colors. In this case, after testing on scrap wood, I created a water-based stain that mixed 10 parts Brownells resorcin brown with 1 part Brownells black. It was perfect for the wood.
(https://i.ibb.co/RhTTj31/mikey-stain-1.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/wLTgC4n/mikey-stain-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZJ3XKxQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/1Xf0kQL/mikey-stain-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3FyTnd7)
After drying, I rubbed it back with a gray Scotch Bright pad, cleaned it with a vacuum, and then applied finish. The finish is Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil low-medium sheen. I applied the finish with a gray Scotch Bright pad and will add more coats over the next few days. You can start to see the mellow "shadow" effects of the previous black stain. Better lighting will reveal more as I go.
(https://i.ibb.co/kDWdj76/mikey-finish-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M13Xrv5)
(https://i.ibb.co/VYyYShC/mikey-finish-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m5s5qYy)
(https://i.ibb.co/9hvjcTq/mikey-finish-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C6tFm7n)
(https://i.ibb.co/bdM4h3G/mikey-finish-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ysczTRx)
(https://i.ibb.co/2KkDXqz/mikey-finish-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VBq7XVF)
dave
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Hi Lads,
The stock is coming out great. The color shimmers and the shadow black pigment really electrifies the cherry.
(https://i.ibb.co/pjRFvzN/mikey-finish-6.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/TmG10bL/mikey-finish-7.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/kxfjcnC/mikey-finish-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DtyhKX2)
I cleaned up the butt plate finial and polished it. It just requires a few engraved accent lines.
(https://i.ibb.co/6PCKWNk/mikey-butt-plate-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vPnNjDS)
My tools of choice are my Lindsay Airgraver with a 90 degree cutter, a small and larger round bottomed die sinker's chisels, and a couple of small round diamond stones, one in my Dremel, and the other in a needle file handle. Finally, a couple of small needle files are also handy. For polishing, I use little bits of sand paper but mostly pencil pointed sticks dipped in paraffin oil and then rotten stone. The base of the butt plate has raised borders on either side extending from the finial back around the heel. I have to carve those borders. I first cut the edges with my square graver then go back and raise that edge by laying the square graver over 90 degrees so one side carves away brass removing background. Then I go at it with a flat die sinker's chisel to remove more metal. Finally, I scrape the brass with old cheap skew wood chisels. I learned this years ago from Tom Curran (Acer Saccharum on this forum). I miss him terribly. I just gently scrape the surface of the brass and the chisel peels away the scratches and excess metal in tight corners.
(https://i.ibb.co/6Jt1DN7/mikey-butt-plate-14.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Making this gun is not for the faint of heart. You have to dive in and develop a comprehensive set of skills because so many parts have to be fabricated and none are crude or rustic.
(https://i.ibb.co/1Qb9WH4/mikey-butt-plate-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Pjt5HBV)
The rest of the butt plate decoration is complex. I have to clean up the raised borders and engrave some accents. Then there is a very fine nick and dot border inside and parallel to the raised border. Within that is an engraved panoply of arms. Unfortunately, the original engraving is so worn that I cannot see the design. So I have to recreate an appropriate one. I did this for a previous version of this gun I built and will copy that.
(https://i.ibb.co/9ysJGBp/finished-fowler-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TPmZrJw)
dave
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Hi,
Butt plate engraving is done. Now time for the side plate and trigger guard.
(https://i.ibb.co/s6V3TXk/mikey-butt-plate-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2skKzpm)
dave
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Question that was bugging me all night: Do die sinkers chisels really shave off metal, or are they more like a file, with many little teeth?
If they shave off metal, how often do you have to sharpen them, and at what angle? Sorry to be ignorant, but I've never seen one.
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Hi Craig,
Die sinker's chisels are simply strong solid steel engraving tools that can be used for engraving and sculpting metal. Years ago tool and die makers were the elite craftsmen in machine shops. They used the chisels to create things like decorative molds used in stamping metal. For example, they might make an intricate mold of a rococo shell that then was used to stamp the heads of silver or silver plated silverware. I believe they are virtually an extinct species now. Hence, no one seems to make the chisels anymore. Here is a photo of me using one to sculpt silver.
(https://i.ibb.co/xHw34bL/chiseling-side-plate.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cLRxm93)
I sharpen them much like gravers. I have a flat, polished granite tile and on that I have 2 ceramic stones of very fine and ultra fine grits that are 1/2" thick. I lubricate the stones with a mix of water, mild dish detergent, and Ballistol. First, I hold the 45 degree angled faces flat against the stones and polish them. Then I create a tiny heel on the bases of the tips by placing a polished 5/8" steel rod on the tile and against the edge of the finest stone. Then I rest the chisel on the rod with the one edge of the cutting surface on the stone about 1/2 way across the stone and rub it back and forth. Then I turn the chisel to the other cutting face and repeat. On a flat bottomed chisel, I place the bottom on the stone to polish a little heel and on round bottomed chisels, I place the bottom of the chisel on the stone and rock it back and forth using the curve of the bottom as a fulcrum. That creates the tiny heel needed for engraving and metal sculpting. I taught myself how to use the chisels and after a lot of practice and hard work, I've learned to use them pretty well. I also use them to cut authentic teeth in flintcock jaws.
(https://i.ibb.co/M1H9ZR1/cutting-teeth-in-jaw.jpg) (https://ibb.co/6tSNr4t)
Sadly something no modern lock makers do and try to foist on us stupid useless grooves.
dave
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Many thanks, Dave. I have quite a few varied rifflers, both steel and diamond, but no actual chisels. I do have some O-1 steel rods that can be used to make chisels that could cut brass, especially if the brass were annealed.
The tools of our trade can be as interesting as a rifle/smooth bore itself.
Greatly admire the work that you do, and the thought that goes into it.
Unfortunately, age is taking its toll on my antique body. Becoming more difficult each day, it seems - even the everyday chores of cooking, cleaning, and taking care of my furry friends. Yet, I still enjoy doing what I can with what I have.
The die-sinker chisels will enable me to finally clean up the brass jaeger bits I have. Planning to make another Kibler first, however, a Colonial to go with my beautiful Woodsriver.
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Hi,
Trigger guard is engraved. Now I just need to engrave the side plate and finish the lock and barrel.
(https://i.ibb.co/SVp6pvY/Mikey-trigger-guard-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qmwDw1q)
(https://i.ibb.co/5MykwNb/Mikey-trigger-guard-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8KpbtW1)
(https://i.ibb.co/GTnz9vB/mikey-finish-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nC6xBsZ)
dave
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Hi,
The lock and side plate are engraved. The lock still needs a little tweaking for best performance but is going to be a very fine lock in the end, albeit very different from the lock I bought from TOW. Engraving the lock plate gave me fits. The cast metal just seemed to have variable density and it was very hard to cut clean borders. The metal I welded on to the plate at the rear for the third lock bolt engraved much more smoothly. The flint cock, which is from Chambers engraved so much easier and the frizzen made from a higher carbon alloy did as well. The lock plate was difficult but it worked out fine in the end.
(https://i.ibb.co/C0KXK73/Mikey-lock-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tCpNpsT)
(https://i.ibb.co/VYMr3sD/Mikey-lock-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GQCBFqk)
I have no images of the back side of the frizzen on the original gun but I suspect it was engraved in some French fashion. So I went to my French pattern books and adapted a design and cut it. I also finished engraving the side plate. I copied the original but had to make some changes because the dimensions of the plate are a little different owing to differences in the size of the lock. A gun is a system and you cannot change just one thing. Anyway, it came out well and really looks the authentic part.
(https://i.ibb.co/mq1vnc9/mikey-side-plate-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BZd4hCy)
I still need to finish the barrel and then make the ramrod. The barrel is 50" long and I only have rods 48". So I am going to turn a long steel ferrule. I am not sure the owner of the gun has a cleaning rod long enough so I may have to make that as well. The rod in the gun may have a tow worm and the other a modern threaded ferrule. Those details are why a gun like this takes so much time to produce. I can make 2-3 other guns in the time this one takes because almost everything on this fowler had to be hand made.
More to come.
dave
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Side plate has a great feel to it. Looks just right.
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Wow. There doesn't appear to be a single aspect of this gun that isn't either New England or French. Very, very, well done by someone who clearly hunts down historical correctness, obstacles be d***ed.
Jennison
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Hi,
Thanks Rich and Jennison. The fowler is almost done. I should be able to post final photos on Sunday or Monday. The front sight is mortised into the barrel but I also added solder for insurance.
(https://i.ibb.co/yNHNYqs/mikey-front-sight.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zmqm7Zf)
I had a left over silver sprue button so I melted it in a crucible so gravity formed it into a perfect little round button in the bottom of the crucible. Then I hammered and flattened it into a perfect round shape on my little anvil. Next I cut it in half to make the half moon sight. I marked its dimensions on the barrel after finding the center. I mark the center of the barrel by laying it upside down on a flat surface. The flat barrel tang and top flat of the octagon section hold the barrel horizontally level on the bench. I put a thin file under the barrel where the sight is located and draw it out from under the barrel. That makes a perfect center mark on the round part of the barrel near the muzzle. The sight is located almost 5" back from the muzzle where the flat sighting plane ends. I cut the outline of the base into the barrel using a square graver and a series of parallel lines lengthwise in the mortise. Here are photos from a pistol I made.
(https://i.ibb.co/V2WrXLR/front-sight-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jgvB78m)
Using a 1/8" wide flat bottomed die sinker's chisel, I cut out the mortise.
(https://i.ibb.co/SXCXdDc/front-sight-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N6B6mgr)
Then I go around the edges with a knife edged chisel that undercuts the edges. I use a tiny triangular file to cut little dovetails in the ends of the sight and connect the tops of them on each side with tiny grooves cut with a jeweler's saw. I flux the mortise and sight, tap it into the mortise, which holds it in position. and then sweat solder from one side of the sight to the other. After soldering, I clean up the excess solder, and then peen the barrel along the ends and sides of the sight with a hammer and punch so the steel barrel locks the sight in place. It should hold fine even without the solder. I don't measure any depth or do any machining. It is all done by eye and it goes very quickly.
I drilled the 5/64" diameter vent hole. The owner does not want a vent liner, just a hole like the original. Under that circumstance and given the thick barrel walls at the breech, I am no fan of the "sunset" position of the hole relative to the pan on the lock. I want the hole buried a little bit into the pan. As Larry Pletcher showed in his tests, the radiant heat from the pan that ignites the charge peaks after priming powder burns down into the pan a little. With a thick barrel wall and simple touch hole, the peak of radiant heat means more reliable ignition. It does not mean the fastest ignition. There is a trade off. That is why you generally see vent holes lower than "sunset" position on most military guns. Anyway, this gun has a relatively big vent hole positioned just below the top of the pan. It will be very reliable and representative of the guns from the time.
I made the ramrod. On this gun even the ramrod was a challenge. It had to be tapered, which I do on my lathe. I can only get 48" hickory blanks so I had to add 2 inches. I made a long iron ferrule to add that length and made and attached a spring steel tow worm. The worm is tightly hammered into a hole in the ferrule and then soldered.
(https://i.ibb.co/qRGWphT/Mikey-ramrod-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZhsYxvq)
The original gun also has a rod with a silver tip at the muzzle. So I turned the end of the rod to form the internal diameter post for the tip. Then I cut silver sheet the size needed, annealed it, and bent it around a drill the inside diameter of the ferrule. I measured the silver so the butt joint was exactly at the right diameter. Then I low temp silver soldered it together. I fitted the collar to the rod making sure the end of the wood would support the silver end cap. I scribed a circle in silver sheet, cut it out with a jeweler's saw, and tinned it with solder. Then I laid it on top of the silver collar and heated it until it sat down and was soldered in place. Then I ground off the excess, glued the tip and tow worm to the ramrod, pinned the ferrule for the worm, sanded the rod, stained and started coating it with finish.
(https://i.ibb.co/9VMCBvQ/Mikey-ramrod-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5n7fC9b)
dave
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Hi,
It is done, finally. All the fiddly stuff at the end took forever. I need to let the finish cure and then put on a light coat of Renaissance Wax. I also need to test fire it. The owner did not want a vent liner so I just drilled a simple hole. The finish on the cherry stock is Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil. I added some bone black shading and tarnished the metal a little. You can see how the staining with black during the whiskering process embedded a shadow effect in the wood making the cherry glow. It is 62 caliber with a 50" barrel by FCI that I modified a great deal. In fact, not one component on this gun was used as bought. Everything was hand made or modified extensively from a commercial product. It weighs 7 lbs 10oz compared with the original gun that weighed 7 lbs 6 oz.
Enjoy.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/bbvqsmx/Mikey-done-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fDNBkFb)
(https://i.ibb.co/nn4r4xY/Mikey-done-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KLB6BTf)
(https://i.ibb.co/wJ7pCXL/Mikey-done-3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WD0BFw3)
(https://i.ibb.co/8KjgfM1/Mikey-done-4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p03jM2Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/GRJMNDF/Mikey-done-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VTNC5G3)
(https://i.ibb.co/1rpXXtb/Mikey-done-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VghCCc3)
(https://i.ibb.co/qyzmv3W/Mikey-done-7.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TvZPsxb)
(https://i.ibb.co/HXxQyQ6/Mikey-done-8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g6PC8CN)
(https://i.ibb.co/6y925Xh/Mikey-done-9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vcyb8X5)
(https://i.ibb.co/MMg54G0/Mikey-done-10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XSWkg3R)
(https://i.ibb.co/x50Ryy3/Mikey-done-11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GPLbXXF)
(https://i.ibb.co/BN6RTtn/Mikey-done-12.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HdPQGVh)
(https://i.ibb.co/m9yrwnb/Mikey-done-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R36GmXY)
(https://i.ibb.co/PjthPLK/Mikey-done-14.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MS9Vtvr)
(https://i.ibb.co/vV2WmML/Mikey-done-15.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MZqHpJP)
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Outstanding!
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Very nice.
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Stunning!!!
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Beautiful work of art.
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Boy that’s a beauty.
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This piece is clearly by a maker with tremendous knowledge, ability and an unusually keen eye for the granular.
Jennison
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Very very beautiful!!
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What a journey! Thanks so much for sharing and taking us along. And, of course, the culmination is just fantastic.
Folks, if you think just doing such a project is a big task, also think about stopping to take pics, and trying to make sure the pics show what you want them to show. And then to put it all into posts here, and have it make the sense you want it to. But it is possible that the break to take pics provides a bit of a breather and time to think about the next task. Maybe... but still much more than my brain thinks it can handle!! So well done on so many fronts.
Thank you again!!
I had to count multiple times, but shall we call you "5 pipes" now?
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What a beautiful fowler! I really like the stock finish and will try your technique on my cherry stock -- it really does glow.
Thanks for taking the time to document your builds, Dave. It's incredibly helpful; I have printed out this entire build (and others you have posted) to help me learn the craft. They sit in a binder next to the "must-have" books on my bench.
Nothing like a cherry-stocked fowler to make me miss New England!
- Tom