AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: JO49 on November 21, 2023, 07:53:05 PM
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I ran across most of a paper wasp nest. I’m going to save it for wadding if and when I get a Fowler. My question is do you use the combs also or just the paper surrounding the combs?
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When I found and saved some wasp nest, I found that it degrades over time and by the time I remembered to give it a try, it did not want to hold together very well as "wadding." I was intending on using the paper and not the comb.
K
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Thank you, I was afraid that might happen.
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Curious if the paper would have " keeped " better if the Comb was removed before storage?
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Well, I removed the combs and put the paper in a gallon size zip loc bag. I’ll see if it usable in time. :D
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I save all the abandoned paper wasp nest I come across. I use the nest as is. A ziplock bag saves them for quite a while.
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The paper does break up bad in a shooting bag, but I always use it in a hunting rifle that may e left loaded (but not prime) for weeks.
I figure it prevents powder getting contaminated with the greased patch.
May bust up a bit much for smoothbore wadding on its own, but never tried it!
Spanish moss and tough green (ivy) leaves work as well as any wads in a smoothbore, or packing from an old saddle.
Just don't leave ivy leaves loaded over night, as they soften the powder.
Richard.
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Thank you!
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I use regular wads that don't deteriorate nor require special storage and give me great patterns.
Lotsa stores sell them, or with the correct sized punches, can easily be made from ordinary cardboard boxes
or card stock.
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Use corn meal over the powder for wadding. Better patterns. For me at least................Bob
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Thanks for the tips!
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I remember my grandfather telling me about using wasp nest as wads in muzzleloading shotguns. I don't recall if he said over powder or over shot. I assumed both.
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I seen paper wasp nest used on “you tube” and was thinking I might try it someday just for giggles.
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I've used it to good effect but not as patching. I had some patches that were too wet and contaminated the powder. I pick up a lot of wasp nests that fall from the rafters of my barn so I look for the cleanest ones to start with. In use after the powder is poured in I just tear small pieces from the nest, all parts of the nest until I have a good layer above the powder. Enough I hope to absord any grease before it can contaminate the powder.
I only do this now on a hunting load because those nests have a lot of silica in them and I don't want to damage my bore.
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Exactly the same as I do, Darkhorse.
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You can buy real wads.
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Yes, I definitely would purchase wads. Was just thinking about it because I seen it on “YouTube”. 😄
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As I see shotgun and rifle shooting, consistency is about 50% of the accuracy or patterning ability.
If the loading is not consistent, neither will be the result.
Commercial wads give consistency.
I can 'see' giving the wasp nest a trial or testing to see if it works - fine.
To rely upon it to win matches or put meat on the table, not for me. I'll "go" with something more consistent, thanks.
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Be sure you don’t harvest an active hornets nest and bring it in the house… just sayin😊
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Be sure you don’t harvest an active hornets nest and bring it in the house… just sayin😊
I'll bet that would be just about, possibly nigh on impossible to accomplish.
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To my way of thinking if I was going to use a modern wad then I might as well be shooting inlines. That way there would be no need to figure out how my ancestors might have fixed thier problems.
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DH - do you honestly think commercial wads were not available? Perhaps your ancestors didn't have problems or disregarded them as their normal failings of shooting.
Perhaps they could not afford the commercial wads available, or perhaps no commercial wads were available where your ancestors lived.
Others did purchase commercial available wads & so will I. My Ancestors came from Ireland and Scotland & they bought English wads. Swedish firms even went so far
as to making cupped wads to hold shot in the centre of the pattern, so it would add to the central density. The people back THEN were not without imagination and the
drive to do things better.
The Brits were even making fixed wads & shot in wire cages with bone dust for buffering in differnt coloured 'ctgs' for different range shooting. Not all shooters back 'in the day'
were restricted to using wasp nest or leaves.
I am not saying you have to use these wads. I'm just saying your gun will likely shoot better if you do.
Afterall, you can do whatever you want, even to using no wads at all - if THAT turns your crank.
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Daryl.
Some of us are talking specific use for hornet nest.
Like Between powder and patched ball for hunting, where the gun may be loaded for a good while. It prevents oil from patch messing with the powder.
This is the way Dark Horse uses it up the page.
I do the same exactly.
I don't mess with shooting competitions at all really.
I use the above for Hunting.
Re commercial wads, until into the 19th century, with the purchase of a new gun, it was normal (UK) to be given a wad punch and sheet of pasteboard.
Many old gunners used paper, brown or newspaper.
Later, (early 19th C.) wads of various patents were available, from cork to felt anointed with mercury, but right through into the 20th Century, (and up to now even!) many old gunners continued with paper, wadding from saddles, Spanish moss, and what not. The reason being it gave them satisfactory results, and they trusted what they were used to.
I have said before how a certain little 19 bore double I had, would throw a fine 40 percent pattern at 40 yards, where if held right, little could escape. This was with homemade felt wads, paper rolled in a ball and rammed, Or ivy leaves loaded in the same manner..
I for one prefer to be independant, and not have to rely on commercial anything, As far as Possible and practical!
All the best,
Richard.
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I fully understand, Richard.
I've found that a couple bags of 1,000 wads ea. goes a long way.
In my .69 where the gun might be loaded for an extended period of time, I perceived the possibility of powder contamination. I used a card wad to separate the
lubed patch from the powder.
Upon some testing I did at a later date, I found this to not matter at all. I tested on a target at 100 meters on 2 separate occasions with the gun being loaded for
2 weeks, thus I dispensed with the 'wad' separating the powder from the patched ball in subsequent years. Now, that might have been due to the 165gr. 2F load
I used for hunting, or not.
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I appreciate that there are several places that can provide components for our guns, but that being said, its quite possible that those sources could dry up if the younger generation continues the trend of not being interested in the old ways. For that reason, and the fact my own grandfather shot a muzzleloader as a teen and bought only powder, and caps, and scrounged the rest. I choose to find components that are readily available, and usually free. I never let an old gas station, or tire shop go unexplored, because often there is a bucket or two of wheel weights in one corner or another. Paper wasps nest get harvested as well. Old wool blankets, and linen napkins and table cloths, along with bear grease,mutton tallow, and venison tallow, all find a home with me. So, buy less components, so you can afford more powder is my motto.
Hungry Horse
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My situation really has nothing to do with anything, but when I was shooting a lot of skeet I couldn't justify having big piles of wasp nest all over the loading bench! ;D
In my hunting situations which was mostly pheasants, a small handful of cards and wads was all I needed in my vest pocket to hunt all day. I usually had to keep up with people using breech loaders so I didn't have much time to fool around with natural materials. I had to reload quick and keep up.
I can see the attraction to natural materials, but they never fit into what I was doing.
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Mike; this discussion reminded me, could you send me another quart of that synthetic bear grease?
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Let me get some more synthesized :P
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how much oil can you render from a synthetic bear?
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Do you "get" Amsoil or Mobil 1?
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I guess being independent and wanting to use natural items is my main reason for using wasp nests. As far as being consistent I shot in matches for years so I know what it takes to make one of these rifles shoot accurately. The nest material is very light in weight and compress's good. I try to use the same amount each time I load and if needed I would shoot a match with wasp nests between powder and patch.
This is a target I shot with wasp nest in the load. I thought it showed good accuracy, any problems I attribute to the shooter.
I'm sure better results might be achieved with store bought wads but that doesn't float my boat. Point I'm trying to make here is that no one needs to be concerned that using wasp nest is going to ruin your groups.
(https://i.ibb.co/sb05W1p/CCI06272017-0002-657x1024.jpg)
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Gonna start a paper wasp farm if it would help this old guy shoot like that.
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Me too! 😂
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Rich,
We have one most years.
(wasp paper farm)
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If I remember correctly. Wasp/hornet nest paper smells to high heaven when it burns from firing.....................Bob
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Bob, I've never noticed a different smell at all. Perhaps if one used more than I use it would? I just don't know.
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Using hornet nest paper for wadding is about as natural as using a piece of rock to try and ignite the powder in the pan.
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Using hornet nest paper for wadding is about as natural as using a piece of rock to try and ignite the powder in the pan.
Very clever. ;)
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Bob H,
Do you mean when the gun is fired it stinks?
the wasp nest don't burn as such when fired out of a gun..
Lost me sense of smell with a sinus op so can't argue!
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Seems the hornet nest material in my area smells like burnt dog hair with lit with a match..............
Bob
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Seems the hornet nest material in my area smells like burnt dog hair with lit with a match..............
Bob
I never considered smoking it before. I'll give it a whirl.
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Its hard to roll, Mike.
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Its hard to roll, Mike.
I do have some talent hand rolling cigars..... ;)
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Well. isn't it simply bug spit and very fine wood fibre? I have read that wasp nest is slightly fire resistant. I intended to try it specifically due to that feature as the California woods can be very dry and fire is always a concern.
K
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One of the biggest reasons I use it is it will almost not hold a spark at all. Out her in California that trumps everything else in my book.
Hungry Horse