AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Bigmon on April 13, 2024, 04:26:36 PM
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I have a 24 Ga Fowler I built that I would like to try my hand at turkey hunting.
It shoots lead #6 shot just fine. But I keep hearing about TSS shot.
Just would like some guidence regarding do I need to use a plastic wad? Will this really harm a barrel?
How much and what size, etc.
It's all new to me.
Thanks
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The last two turkey I harvested was with an air rifle. (legal where I live).
I have heard you can test your load with a soda can. If you get penetration on that, you can certainly with the head and neck of a turkey. With my Jim Chambers PA Fowler, I have to use non-lead due to the state I live in. I use ITX from TomBob Outdoors. It does not need a cup but you can use one if you want to.
K
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If lead shot is not allowed and you must go that route, use American made HEVI-Shot not that China made stuff. Either way some kind of barrel protection is needed, plastic or cardboard.
Robby
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I was just looking on line for 24 ga plastic "shot cups"? No luck.
Surly someone makes them.
I wonder if I made heavy paper cylinders and pre filled with the TSS or heavy shot??
When I use regular lead shot I just use a heavy wad over the powder, then the shot then a thin wafer of the same stuff over the shot, or a cardboard card.
Seems fine, but I know for turkey, the TSS is a killer. And maybe want to try it?
In this 24 ga I was just using 65 Gr 2F and the same volume of lead #6 shot. At 20 to 25 yds it shoots pretty hard.
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I was just looking on line for 24 ga plastic "shot cups"? No luck.
Surly someone makes them.
I wonder if I made heavy paper cylinders and pre filled with the TSS or heavy shot??
When I use regular lead shot I just use a heavy wad over the powder, then the shot then a thin wafer of the same stuff over the shot, or a cardboard card.
Seems fine, but I know for turkey, the TSS is a killer. And maybe want to try it?
In this 24 ga I was just using 65 Gr 2F and the same volume of lead #6 shot. At 20 to 25 yds it shoots pretty hard.
I experimented with paper shot cup in my Brown Bess years ago. First shot-put a huge hole in the turkey target right through the neck. The paper didn't split and the "slug" went through the target sideways. I bet that would have killed him!!! ;D
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ITX non lead shot is made in America. Rigeway,PA... it's safe for old shotguns and safe for muzzleloading guns, so the manufacturer says on their documentation. Also proven by those that use it.
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I wouldn’t use tss shot without a plastic shot cup. I don’t know where to find a .24 gauge cup, so you are limited to traditional loads…. Good luck!
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I have known several folks that make their own shot cups from post it note paper or other paper.
I have heard that plastic prefabricated cups can possibly deposit burned and melted residue in your bore but I have zero experience with that.
I know the makers of ITX when testing their product, used plastic shot cups, and they experienced pretty incredible results as far as extended range of lethality on turkey targets. They posted a video of their performance tests online. I am sure they are still around.
K
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I used plastic shot cups in fowling loads, but always put an 1/8" hard card wad between powder and plastic.
I had quite a time getting the melted plastic out of a 12 bore I experimented with, back in the 80's, I think it was.
The BP melted the wads I used back then and liberally coated the bores with it. A "tornado" brush was finally used
and worked well. You can visualize how it would work.
(https://i.ibb.co/xXWLnSc/tornado-brush.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hLb9GRn)
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Daryl’s right, put a regular over powder card before the plastic cup…. No residue then
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IMHO, the more plastic, paper, wood fiber, and heaven know what else you put in you shot column the more possibilities for a big hole in your pattern.
Hungry Horse
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Plastic shot cups, especially the harder, "split yourself" wads have a "great" potential for tightening up loads with experimenting with progressively deeper cuts in the wad. Federal flight control wads use this method with short splits to improve buckshot patterns and maybe smaller shot loads as well.
We can use this method to improve patterns in gauges that have this type of wad available.
If interested in better patterns, it's(ideas) in your hands.
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I plan on using my Brown Bess for turkey hunting later this month and have worked up a load with a paper shot cup. I use paper from the grocery bags with two wraps around the dowel for a tight fit in the barrel. My loading is a 95 grn 3F Goex, nitro card, 1/3 lubed cushion wad, 1 1/2" shot cup, 2 ounces #5 Nickel plated shot and an over powder shot card. At 20 yds I get 95%+ pellets within a 30" circle/
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ballistic products lists two 24ga wads, but nothing for hard shot like tss.
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ballistic products lists two 24ga wads, but nothing for hard shot like tss.
A paper or thin plastic (acetate) liner inside the softer lead plastic wads will help protect the bore and it will open instantly when the wad opens up.
I've experimented with these in modern shotgun loads and they do work in improving patterns as well.
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Bigmon, I have experimented with all kinds of configurations in three different bore sizes and I have some 24 Ga.(.58) plastic shot cups if you want some. Lemme know.
This is what is called, "The Sky Chief Load"
Powder charge
Nitro (hard) card
Shotload
Thin overshot card
Full fiber cushion wad*
*The cushion wad needs to be SATURATED (the wetter and heavier, the better) with oil. I like to use olive oil.
I have experimented with this configuration as well in three different gauges, with great success.
I don't understand it, but it definitely works.
Robby
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Ridgway, Pa. Sorry. Pet peeve of mine. I grew up there.
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24 gauge plastic shot cups: https://www.ballisticproducts.com/24-gauge-wads/products/90/
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oops I apologize about misspelliing Ridgway, PA. It looks like a very cool area of the country. I have not ever been there, but I have some good old friends there--or near there..
Ken Prather
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I have never had a problem with melted plastic accumulating in the bore, or even smearing, maybe this newer stuff is more heat resistant. I have been told that years ago guys removed it with acetone soaked patches wrapped around a standard bore brush.
Robby