AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Wingshot on July 28, 2025, 01:41:09 AM
-
So I’m wrapping up the Woodsrunner kit from Jim Kibler that I picked up a couple weeks ago and when I did Bree showed me the test finish stock they have in house. I really liked the sample that had a rich reddish orange hue to it and she hooked me up with a bottle of the orange tint, Iron Nitrate and some sealer. My question is this, I’ve got my stock sanded down to 320, whiskerd and sanded twice and it’s glass smooth. Do I apply the tint first, let it dry and then apply the iron Nitrate? I have some pretty plain maple left over from my yet to be completed blank build and I’ve played around with it but with no curl in that wood, I don’t know what to expect. Can’t find any info on this anywhere. Help is appreciated.
-
I use danglers orange 2-3 coats then danglers red 2-3 coats then rub it back with maroon scotch bright pads with linseed turpentine mix 50-50 when the color is to your likening finish with tru-oil 3-4 coats then rub back to the sheen you like with 0000 steel wool and oil makes a great finish curly maple
-
Depends on the wood. Walnut already has the reddish brown color where maple or ash are much different in color and density. I would try it on a sample or in the barrel channel. Lots of guns out there with rainbow colored barrel channels ;)
-
Do the iron nitrate first. Then you can adjust the color with the toner if need be.
-
For what it's worth I spent an hour on the phone with the guy who invented the orange toner and he said he always does the orange toner first. He also said he has had success matching the color of original guns during restoration. My mentor JD confirmed the same process including others I'll not detail here.
-
The sample I did placing the toner first seemed to give me the hue I’m chasing and it’s “adjustable” if you know what I mean. The barrel channel test pallet is also a great idea. The maple on my stock is considered by Kibler to be “plain” but it has a good bit of curl and figure. I’d like to get it right.
-
The sample I did placing the toner first seemed to give me the hue I’m chasing and it’s “adjustable” if you know what I mean. The barrel channel test pallet is also a great idea. The maple on my stock is considered by Kibler to be “plain” but it has a good bit of curl and figure. I’d like to get it right.
So, you put how many applications of toner on....and then you used Nitrate?
Pics would be helpful if you can possibly do that.
-
I just finished a curly ash stock last week. I applied aqua fortis first, blushed with heat, then wiped on a coat of orange toner followed by a coat of True Coat oil. I then applied a layer of True Coat dipping my applicator in lamp black and then rubbing that coat back with a rag.
R/David
(https://i.ibb.co/kZnvVLh/9e677093-8dfa-4fbb-967d-41eb85e185aa.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LKwHDTC)
-
Lovely colour Dave.
-
That Ash stock turned out beautiful! Spoke to Bree at Kibler’s and was told, Aqua Fortis first, toner second and toner can also be added into the oil finish.