AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Brdhntr on August 01, 2025, 05:50:46 AM
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I broke a tap off. It was a standard, inexpensive tap from Amazon.
Thanks,
Ben
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Broken taps are generally from improper use, not using a good cutting fluid or not alineing the tap with the hole. Always blame the user first!
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I have a rather large standard and metric set that I bought off a Matco tool truck more than 20 years ago. They are very good quality, none have broke on me.
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JPK - I think you are correct, it was user error.
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I love my vintage Greenfield tap and die sets. Not cheap, but they stay sharp forever if you use them with a good quality tapping fluid.
David
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When working at a steel mill as a machinist we used Greenfield taps and always happy with them. Taps like springs have a rated life at least in industry. With a large industry near me using automated machinery they replace taps at a certain number of cycles. I have been given some of the throwaways and are still in use (larger ones) in my home shop. With really small taps you might think of replacing them sooner than later especially when tapping dead in holes.
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A lot of taps are broken just because they are not backed off some enough to break the chip.
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For non-critical function like lock side bolts, using the next larger tap number drill makes it easy. When I run into a situation where the tap feels it’s at risk, I back it out, re-drill next size, re-tap. But with 4140 lock plates for sear and tumbler bridle screws, I just go very slowly with reverse clicks every 45 degree turn.
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When I was making locks I always countersunk the holes to be tapped the depth of ONE thread and used Tap-matic tappng fluid.No cheap taps ever and Greenfield was my choice.I got most of mine from a local industrial supply business close to my shop.
Bob Roller
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On small taps it is especially important to hold the tap holder in alignment with the drilled hole. Most tap holders have a center opposite the tap holding end. Lock the part to be drilled in a drill press or mill and drill the hole. While the part is still in the locked down position, tap the hole using a center, locked in the chuck and against the tap holder, following the tap down as it turns in. Most tap breakage comes from a side load and this eliminates that error. They do make a spring loaded tool for this, but I just follow the tap like I say above. I do many 4, 5, 6 as well as the regular 8 and 10’s we often use, and I don’t use anything special for taps just off the shelf brands but do replace them often.
Bob
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I use spiral fluted machine taps almost exclusively anymore, most of mine are Vega or Emuge. They are substantially harder to break than straight flute taps and they won't pack chips in the hole, the chips come out of the hole. Try one and you'll not go back to straight flute of any kind. They are vastly more expensive than standard taps but they last a silly long time and not having to get one out of something a lot more expensive is worth a lot to me.
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To the OP
OSG and Guhring are my favorite taps. High quality and will last quite a while when treated well.
Hertel is my "go to" for medium range stuff.
I never buy $#@* taps anymore. It just isn't worth it. Too high stakes after you've put a ton of work into a part.
mscdirect.com is a good source.
Hope that helps!
PS. Remember that taps and files are NOT lifetime investments!!! :)
CE
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Any GOOD manufactured H.S.S. tap will do the job IF used correctly. Being US made or import does not matter it's the person using the tap and their method of tapping. I only use carbon steel taps to clean out an already tapped hole.
P.S. a side note on Chinese or India made tools there are cheap imports and good imports. How do you think that these other countries are beating the US at their own game in space or other products - by using their junk tools? Get real - save some money and buy some of those QUALITY import tools before the tariff closes down the import of them. Yes - if you have deep pockets buy US made but for the few times you need that special tap or die say the left hand 1/2-20 that the US manufactures charge around $150 for and the import is $42 (I just purchased an import tap and die so I know what I am talking about here) be my guest - I live on a fixed income.
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What little I know & have kinda figured out myself. The more flutes, the weaker the shaft = breaks easier. I prefer spiral fluted tapes. I like the Greenfield & it is my GO TO brand. Usually get mine on line & buy 2 or more every time. (Shipping for 2-4-6 same shipping cost as 1) They are not cheap but they hold up well. Use allot of Tap Magic fluid too.
I get the taps & solid Carbide drills & Milling bits at MSC.
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Is Tap Magic the same as Rapid Tap? Always used that stuff, but they changed the formula some time back. I don't think the
new formula is as good as the old stuff, but I don't do much if any "tapping" nowadays.
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To the OP
OSG and Guhring are my favorite taps. High quality and will last quite a while when treated well.
Hertel is my "go to" for medium range stuff.
I never buy $#@* taps anymore. It just isn't worth it. Too high stakes after you've put a ton of work into a part.
mscdirect.com is a good source.
Hope that helps!
PS. Remember that taps and files are NOT lifetime investments!!! :)
CE
Absolutely true! Quality taps have ground threads and many are coated. Not the $#@* from ace Hardware.
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Cheap is never the best in this context. I buy from MSCDirect. Fast shipping and they usually give a point of origin. Taps with a coating for steel also helps. Buy quality name brand not made by commies. Teflon oils for a cutting fluid some times help. Castings can have hard spots that may or may not respond to annealing.
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Cheap is never the best in this context. I buy from MSCDirect. Fast shipping and they usually give a point of origin. Taps with a coating for steel also helps. Buy quality name brand not made by commies. Teflon oils for a cutting fluid some times help. Castings can have hard spots that may or may not respond to annealing.
I could not agree more.Some castings have parts hard enough to use as a wheel dressing tool.I remember some frizzens that had to be drilled with a carbide drill for the pivot screw.Foundries were known for production,not quality control.No recourse was available.
Bob Roller