AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: LynnC on September 23, 2025, 06:09:21 AM
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I’m repairing an old percussion lock that is missing the stirrup link. I seems so simple. A thin piece of steel and 2 cross pins.
Are they just made from sheet steel with two piano wire pins driven thru? Perhaps all low carbon steel and case hardened?
Are the pins silver brazed into the link?
Before I attempt making one I thought I would ask the experts.
Thanks…
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Hi Lynn,
I've made several of them. I had to make the bodies and lower pins from solid blocks. The reason was the lower pin had to tuck up close under the arm of the tumbler at full cock which precluded having much metal surrounding the lower pin. I could not simply drill a hole through flat link and insert a pin because most of the metal surrounding the pin had to be filed away to fit the tumbler at full cock. There was no problem using a separate upper pin as that situation was required to pin the link to the tumbler. These were all small pistol locks so a larger lock may make it easier and possible to use two pins.
dave
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I used a milling machine and a strip of 1018 that is 3/16x5/8 and 3 inches long and then milled .050 from one side and .060 from the other side which leaves a center section of .071 and area that makes the "pins"is bout .070 and then 5/16'of an inch is cit off and the 2 pins are formed by filing or hollow milling cutter.As a nearly finished part it looks like long angle "S"and then the hole for the screw or tapered pin is located.I have a Hawken lock on the bench that I might finish that has a tapered pin for the link.The 5/8" starting length gives the option to shorten the link to whatever is needed.Filing one by hand went off my list in 1967.My shop times are not what they once were and I am enjoying the "No need to work"part of my life.IF i get that Hawken lock finished it will be for sale on this forum and no other.
Bob Roller
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.My shop times are not what they once were and I am enjoying the "No need to work"part of my life.IF i get that Hawken lock finished it will be for sale on this forum and no other.
Bob Roller
Does the forum allow for a bid process on something like that?
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Thank you Dave and Bob for the detailed instructions. I will have to check the clearance and hope I don't have to file one out of a solid block. Thanks again!
Lynn
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.My shop times are not what they once were and I am enjoying the "No need to work"part of my life.IF i get that Hawken lock finished it will be for sale on this forum and no other.
Bob Roller
Does the forum allow for a bid process on something like that?
Steeltrap,
To briefly answer your question, a seller can set a price and then add "OBO (or best offer)", which invites members to make offers. If a seller chose to set the price a higher than was reasonable, along with "OBO", then it would, in effect, create something similar to bidding.
With any offers, members should make offers using a PM (personal message, using the tool for that provided here in the forum). It's best not to post offers directly into the thread. We do not want auction-like public bidding.
I wanted to answer that briefly, but apart from a brief reply, it would be good if we can just focus on the OP's thread on how to make a link for a tumbler.
Thanks.
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The Hawken lock I have partly done will be a basic type like the old J&S Hawken had. Full cock only but better material and workmanship and a checkered hammer. I saw on this forum where a smooth hammer spur had slipped and the gun went off.I was told by a Hawken builder that the old ones had no fine checkering on the hammer and my reply was that I will not be sending out any lock that because of poor design was an accident waiting to create a tragedy.
Bob Roller
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This stirrup was made out of a piece of drill rod. Lower pin is integral. Upper pin is a piece of 1/16" drill shank. The tumbler was made from an 1144 blank. The stirrup and tumbler have yet to be heat treated. The mainspring began as one of Dixie's 2 3/4" universals.
(https://i.ibb.co/twKKPL0t/IMG-2004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NgCCnT0P)
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Thanks Hudnut for your additional input!
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Wondering if it is possible to use a single length of wire, bent into a "staple" configuration. Appropriate heat treatment after bending.
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I suppose the "staple" setup would work. Then again, if it would work well I'd then ask why it hasn't been done before.
I've never made one, but (after sleeping in a Holiday Inn Express....not just a "holiday Inn") if I did I think I'd drill out the "connecting metal" first, insert the pins so they were perpendicular to the metal, shape the metal, heat treat and silver solder the pins.
Somehow that sounds easy.......I've said that many times in my life. :(
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The Hawken lock I have partly done will be a basic type like the old J&S Hawken had. Full cock only but better material and workmanship and a checkered hammer. I saw on this forum where a smooth hammer spur had slipped and the gun went off.I was told by a Hawken builder that the old ones had no fine checkering on the hammer and my reply was that I will not be sending out any lock that because of poor design was an accident waiting to create a tragedy.
Bob Roller
Taylor uses a checkering file having 32 lines per inch, IIRC. It does a splendid job making for safe letting down of a hammer, Hawken or English gun.
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Daryl.
That's what I use for checkering hammers and some rimes the front trigger on a double set type.
Thanks for the note,I appreciate it.
Bob Roller