AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Jerry on January 25, 2026, 12:24:22 AM
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Would like to know what is a popular patch lube for target shooting. Commercial or homemade. Thanks, Jerry
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I make Gato Feo lube, works great for patches or projectile lube ...
GATOFEO LUBE
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by weight, double boiler melted ...
1 part mutton tallow (dixie gun works)
1 part canning wax (gulf)
1/2 part beeswax
To make the lube softer (decrease viscosity):
Increase the ratio of tallow (or lanolin): Since the original Gato Feo formula heavily relies on these ingredients alongside beeswax, increasing the fat content will naturally soften the mixture.
To make the lube stiffer (increase viscosity):
Add more beeswax: Beeswax is a primary stiffening agent in many homemade lubes. Melting in additional beeswax will raise the melting point and increase the overall stiffness.
NOTE: canning wax paraffin will not leave a gummy residue in BP bbls.
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For targets, I haven’t found anything better than 5 or 6 to 1- water mixed with Ballistol. Wet the patches properly and shoot all day without wiping. I’ve won many woods walks and paper matches with this lube. Reduces misfires and hangfires because you’re not pushing crud into the vent hole or fire channel when you have to wipe between shots.
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I use a few different things. I find they shoot identically, whether on paper, rested or standing or on gongs, all positions.
Spit - saturated patching
10% soluble oil/water
WWWF + a tich (6 ounces) of Neetsfoot oil - I used Blue Thunder -35 or -40 WinterWindshieldWasherFluid
A gallon of this will last a year or more depending on how much you shoot or what, $5.00 total?
This was used when we shot in freezing temps - all winter, but finding later in life, like now, don't like that much, any more.
The oil also helps slow evapouration in the hot weather (above 70F)when doing a trail of 30 or more shots with pre-lubed & precut patches.
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I do the same as okawbow. Been using it for about 15 years.
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I use tallow
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I can't seem to post pics right now, but when I was sighting in my 45 cal build, using Bee's wax. I then changed to mineral oil (yes.....mineral oil) and my groups at 50yds went from 2-3/4" to 1-3/8".
Using different 3F and 2F loads some went from 6" groups using Bee's wax to under 2" just switching to MO.
Your milage may vary....but it may be worth.....wait.......a shot. ;D
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I can't seem to post pics right now, but when I was sighting in my 45 cal build, using Bee's wax. I then changed to mineral oil (yes.....mineral oil) and my groups at 50yds went from 2-3/4" to 1-3/8".
Using different 3F and 2F loads some went from 6" groups using Bee's wax to under 2" just switching to MO.
Your milage may vary....but it may be worth.....wait.......a shot. ;D
steeltrap, pm sent. Jerry
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I went out this AM to check zero on my .50 caliber GRRW Leman. Load was 90gr FFg, .020" pre-cut patch lubed in neatsfoot oil, .494 ball. This is my usual load, but the rifle was sighted in on a summer day at about 102F, today it was -2F.
I shot 5 shot groups from the bench at 50 and 100 yards; :POI was a bit low but group sizes were about normal. Then I played a bit shooting offhand, getting a half-decent score at 50 and 100 yards.
I fired 12 more shots at the 8" gong at 150 yards, hitting it 5 times: it looked like all hits were low. I'd want to check this from a bench before shooting a 150 yard match at these temps.
Total was 32 shots fired, with no fouling problems.
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I can't seem to post pics right now, but when I was sighting in my 45 cal build, using Bee's wax. I then changed to mineral oil (yes.....mineral oil) and my groups at 50yds went from 2-3/4" to 1-3/8".
Using different 3F and 2F loads some went from 6" groups using Bee's wax to under 2" just switching to MO.
Your milage may vary....but it may be worth.....wait.......a shot. ;D
Beewax is not, by itself, a patch lube.
I would use Neatfoot Oil. PURE Neatsfoot Oil. And you can mix it with Beeswax (USE A DOUBLE BOILER TO HEAT BEEWAX direct heat is NOT a good idea). You might like that as well. Start with one part Beeswax and 2 parts Neatsfoot Oil BY WEIGHT. This is less messy than oil and works well. Also getting petroleum on the gunstock is not a good idea. Its best to warm the oil a little before adding to the Beeswax. And then let it all set hot for a few minutes with little stirring then let it cool. Or decant into small Jelly Jars. If the Beeswax is dirty heat to liquid then let cool to settle the junk out or better buy best grade beeswax.
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I am in with okawbow 20%/ 08% Ballistol /water. Some rifles like closer to 50/50 mix.