AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Cory Joe Stewart on March 15, 2011, 09:23:14 PM
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Gentlemen,
I am building up my tool collection in anticipation for my first build this summer. I have an old rasp that is two sided and has been used and abused for years. I need soemthing better for a rifle build. I have the opportunity to buy a new set of traditional files and rasps, or I can also get a microplane set.
Which do you folks prefer? Any suggestions?
Coryjoe
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Although I'm relatively inexperienced, I find that I use my Nicholson 4-in-1 rasp alot, and I also use the microplanes for fast stock removal. So, for a real answer, I suggest both rasp and planes. On my current build, I'm also using a block plane for overall shaping of the forestock. Hope this helps, BJ
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Throw that old rasp away and forget the microplanes. Although expensive the most useful rasp you can get is a Nicholson #49 cabinet maker's rasp. I no longer find any use whatsoever for a 4-in-hand. Their cutting surfaces are just too short to give even surfaces on the work and they leave marks that are almost impossible to remove. Teh cabinet maker's rasp will remove huge amounts of wood with little effort and not leave impressed grooves that are hard to clean up. I also make extensive use of a low angle block plane, a 10" bastard cut half round file, and a couple mill files. I particularly like the "hand" pattern files in a couple of cuts which I find useful for both wood and metal work - use the older ones for the metal (steel) and the new ones for brass or wood.
Tom
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just a question about planes, do they tend to grab or chip out highly figured (curly) wood? I don't have one that I use on gunstock wood, but was wondering if I should get one, or just get another recommended rasp.
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Jim B, I have used planes on curly maple before. Keep it sharp and keep it low and you should be fine.
Coryjoe
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The Nicholson #49 is actually a cheaper option over the set. Would it need to be followed with a smooth cut since the #49 is a second cut?
Coryjoe
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There is no such thing as a smooth cut and second cut in a rasp. The #49 and #50 denotes the too size for a Nicholson rasp. One thing to consider. With enough time and endurance you could shape a stock with say a #49 rasp, but to be efficient, a much coarser rasp and a big gouge or planes and shaves will be better. The cabinet makers rasp will be good to refine the already established rough shapes.
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Get a good spokeshave and you'll find it will outlast and outperform all the rasps you could ever buy. There are concave places where a nice rasp can do things the spokeshave can't do unless you have one with a rounded sole and are not afraid to go cross-grain with it. Plus a spokeshave leaves great curls of hard wood that are unsurpassed for starting fires in the fireplace or the forge.
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forget the microplanes.
I agree 100% I have two, a round one and a flat one and rarely use either.
I also have a #49 & #50 Nicholson, I use the #49 way more than I do the #50 but I would recommend getting both if you can. I also have 2 spokeshaves one flat and one round, on plain wood I sometimes use them but much prefer a good small flat box plane.
Dennis
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"I also have a #49 & #50 Nicholson, I use the #49 way more than I do the #50 but I would recommend getting both if you can. I also have 2 spokeshaves one flat and one round, on plain wood I sometimes use them but much prefer a good small flat box plane.
Dennis"
Me too and I have several small block planes of different sizes.... Sharp is the key.... Course the bandsaw is the real wood hog!!! Then furnituire scrapers...
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I'm not near as experienced as most of the responders on this thread, but I'll throw out a vote for the Shurform tools.
The stock I'm just getting to the end of now has seen; Block plane, Shurform "plane", spokeshave, farriers rasp, Chain saw file(s), hacksaw, coping saw, chisels and gouges, an occasional piece of dowell wood wrapped with sandpaper, block sanders and an assorment of other files that were never intended for wood (most tool guys would cringe to see the way I abuse the intended usage of tools).
So, my vote is for all of the above and whatever works for the situation.
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I use a micro plane to rough out the stock only because I do not have the set of Nicholson rasps YET. I also use a block plane that is razor sharp to shape the fore stock. It helps keep things flat and straight. The micro plane does bruise the wood so when you get close go to a mill file or block plane. #49 and #50 are next on my list but I've been spending all my tool money on gouges and chisels lately. Just go slow whatever you use and have fun. Good luck, Bob
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I love my spokeshaves and planes for removing a lot of wood. I'm also a fan of the slightly used farrier's rasp(used because the guys out at the track give them away for free)if shaves and planes make you nervous. I have the #49 and #50 rasps, I use the #49 a lot more...Not sure why ??? Another tool I use a lot that is rarely mentioned is the half round vulcanite file. They are great for sculpting and getting in tight places.
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I have to agree with smshea.. I've really taken to a couple of old wooden planes to remove wood quickly... Allot easier on the shoulder joints..
Regards
Dave
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Let me throw out another method that I have had good success with. I use an angle grinder with a round 80 grit sanding disc on top of the grinding disc. I use lay out lines to know when to stop,take it slow and remove a lot of wood in a hurry.
It leaves a nice smooth finish that can then be scraped or finish sanded. One word of caution this method makes a LOT of dust so a respirator or dust mask and eye protection is a good idea.
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One tool nobody's mentioned is a cabinet file. It's a half-round file with a shallow profile. The ones I have are made by Nicholson.They make shaping curves easier than with a regular half-round file because of that shallower profile.They are cut like a coarse file, but give a smoother finish than a rasp.
I have two, an 8" and 10", and I use them a lot.
Rick W
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Hey Rick I have a 10" one of those and it gets a lot of use after the #49 especially on the wrist and butt stock areas.
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Another tool that I find useful for heavy wood removal is a ferrier's rasp.
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I especially like the tapered file (360-313-841 31-384 HALF-ROUND VULCANITE FILE $41.15 1 $41.15) from Brownell's.
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Not trying to steal your thread,but since we are on this subject,just wondering what a good price would be
on a #49 & #50 Nicholson rasp?
Ernie
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I have 3 left @ $40 ea. plus shipping
Curt
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3 #50's
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About $34.00 from Jamestown Distributors
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about the same from tool barn where I bought one last month
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I take wood off my stocks with the bandsaw to square and within 1/16" of finish, or a little less. Then the #49 Nicholson takes over. I'll use a little block plane to get square to begin with, but I don't use planes after that. I use a big draw knife on the butt stock to knock off the corners, again down to where it is only a little work with the rasp. The forend just gets the rasp. I have more faith in the rasp than the plane, which occasionally will lift out a chunk in a bad place, and below the finished plain.
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Don't hesitate, just get the Nicholson #49 and #50 from Jamestown Distributors. You won't be sorry.
Curt
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I also like the Nicholson's, and use them frequently, mostly for final shaping. For hogging off wood, it's the band saw, a sure-form, and an old spoke shave. Maybe I'm getting lazy (or old), but lately I do as much with the band saw as I can.
If you're limited with what you can go with, I'd get the Nicholson's, a sure-form and a spoke shave. You can do everything with the Nicholson's, but you'll get a good arm work out in the process...
Ed
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My dad was a pattern maker and model maker and he left me all his tools. In one of his tool chests is a drawer full of spoke shaves and small wooden planes. It took me a while to break my dependency on using just rasps to work down a stock but once I got the hang of using the planes and spoke shaves, I like them. In particular there is a small hand made wooden scrub plane that takes off wood real fast! I use it to work from the front of the lock to the butt and use a block plane to rough shape the forend and then finish it to final shape with a scraper.
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I haven't got my band saw set up and working and I have a stock that was bandsawed to rough shape and now need to take down to the last 1/8" etc to inlet the lock and so I will use my Japanese Ryoba handsaw, them the spokeshave and planes and rasps
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W H A T ? ? ? No one uses a jacknife anymore??? ::)
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Tom, Funny that you should mention a pocket knife. I know of two people that use one to cut the transition from the lock panel and side plate panel to the lower forearm.. Just goes to show you it doesn't matter what you use... It has to work for you or it's just another useless tool...
Regards
Dave
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Funny is right! I've had at least two guys come up to me over the years and swear they built their rifle entirely with a jacknife. Neither rifle looked too shabby! Hard to believe though. ::)
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i went hunting with a guy that had a trade gun he had built. it was pretty well done except for inletting the side plate. while on stand he inletted it with his pocket knife, darn good job, too. mark
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I have a friend who did a VE Parker and did an English style stock for it. Every thing re final shaping was done with a very sharp hunting knife. Beautifull stock to.
Cheers Bob
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I heard a story once about an old guy that contoured with a hatchet, but haven't seen any of the work.
For a wide choice of rasps and good explanations about the different cuts of rasps as each company labels them, take a look at: www.toolsforworkingwood.com/
Being a lefty, it interests me that Auriou makes left and right rasps.
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Tools For Working wood has a lot of great stuff that would interest most of us. Things you won't find just anywhere. They give good service too.