AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Sharpsman on March 24, 2016, 02:48:59 AM
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I'm ignorant about flintlocks so I'd like you fellows to cure up something I've just read about "How to load and shoot a flintlock rifle"! The first sentence of this piece was:
"Once you have charged the flash pan, tip your firearm so that the powder in the pan falls into the touch hole. You can help it along by lightly tapping the side of the flintlock with the palm of your hand."
Now...that's just exactly OPPOSITE of what I've read elsewhere! I've read that the pan should only carry about 1/3 of it's capacity and that the pan powder should be banked away from the flash hole and not obstructed with powder because it's the hot gases from the pan ignition that actually set the main charge off!
What say you?
Thanks!
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The latest research using a computer to time ignition indicates that backing the powder against the touch hole gives faster ignition than banking it away from the hole or having it level. Actual scientific research overcomes human perception just about every time.
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The latest research using a computer to time ignition indicates that backing the powder against the touch hole gives faster ignition than banking it away from the hole or having it level. Actual scientific research overcomes human perception just about every time.
It's just so hard for folks to unlearn those tales of wives and other preconceived notionments.
I'm with Jim.
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Yep thee ole fact verse fiction does it every time. Coming from Mr. Chambers who builds one of the best locks on the market.(If not the best) should know!
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Rich's experiments also show faster ignition with powder banked against the hole - opposite of what 'Ol Sam' writes or has written. Jim may be writing of "our own" Pletch's timing experiments or perhaps others - fact is sometimes opposite of what has been repeated for many years by many writers. As well, 4F IS faster than 3f or 2F. Can 2F or 3f be used? Absolutely, just not as fast as 2F - Swiss NulB is even faster.
I always fill the pan now, with 4F - always, no matter what or whose flinter I am shooting. Yes, it uses more 4F prime and yes more prime causes more fouling on the lock - no matter. I need every advantage I can find when shooting flinters. I also never wipe the frizzen nor flint for an entire day's shooting. Fouling does not build up on the face of the frizzen - the flint seems to keep it quite clean. Some times while shooting you may have a flash in the pan and have to poke the vent open and some times you may have to nap your flint if you have a "fail to fire"- KLATCH!, otherwise I find all of my flinters need very little shot to shot maintenance - load, prime and that's it. It's even better with one of Bill's Locks.
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Bill may be writing of "our own" Rick Pierce's timing experiments
a. Who is Bill?
b. Where can these experiments be found? The only timing experiments I am aware of are Pletch's.
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Always see what works best for yourself. I'll listen to opinions, but the bottom line is I have to experiment myself.
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I got to honestly say that I've never cared where the powder is in the pan. Im sure all the tests and experiments done prove one thing or another, but I just put some in and pull the trigger, and BOOM.
If your hunting and moving through the woods, unless you take up every void between the pan and the frizzen, the powder will slightly move. I've never stopped while hunting to open my frizzen and make sure the powder is correctly piled in front of the vent.
For target shooting I guess you could. Like I said I'm sure all the tests prove it works. It just seems trivial to me. I wouldn't get hung up on it.
Greg
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Bill may be writing of "our own" Rick Pierce's timing experiments
a. Who is Bill?
b. Where can these experiments be found? The only timing experiments I am aware of are Pletch's.
SRY for the errors- had too much medication last night when typing.
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http://www.blackpowdermag.com/flintlock-timing-muzzleblast-january-1990/
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I'll go along with Greg, I have shot muzzleloaders for 40 years and never gave it much thought. Prime the pan and "BANG".
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I wonder if much of that prime is left where it started out to be after you have walked down the trail a few yards? As has already been said, try it out your self both ways and make up your own opinion. Its fun to try things out and really does not cost that much.
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My experience was, being a soloist, that the first time I checked my pan whilst hunting with a flinter I was rather surprised to find it EMPTY!!!.
It was a windy day and I had given no care to how I carried the rifle.
Now I check the pan regularly and grease/seal it up on windy or wet days. THAT'S the best use of the tallow in the greasehole.
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My experience was, being a soloist, that the first time I checked my pan whilst hunting with a flinter I was rather surprised to find it EMPTY!!!.
It was a windy day and I had given no care to how I carried the rifle.
Now I check the pan regularly and grease/seal it up on windy or wet days. THAT'S the best use of the tallow in the greasehole.
I learned that lesson too. I had a nice muley buck in my sights and........click. Empty pan.
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I used to tip the gun to shift the prime outboard, but don't anymore. I've been putting about 1 gr of Goex FFFFg in the bottom of the pan, but near the vent. I can't tell if it's faster, but it seems more reliable. Strictly anectdotal, this. No real research. Old habits die hard. Most shooters I see still tip the lock down and whack the offside a good 'un.
Daryl, Null B may be faster, but I have a lifetime supply of 4f.
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My experience was, being a soloist, that the first time I checked my pan whilst hunting with a flinter I was rather surprised to find it EMPTY!!!.
It was a windy day and I had given no care to how I carried the rifle.
Now I check the pan regularly and grease/seal it up on windy or wet days. THAT'S the best use of the tallow in the greasehole.
Wade, would you please explain how you seal the pan?
Thanks,
One Eye
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I work on the lock , making certain that the fit of the frizzed /pan is as true as I can get it. Held up to a strong light, it indicates a tight seal. No powder leakage. When hunting in inclement weather [ moose season] I'll rub a bit of my patch lube around the edge of the pan to help keep any moisture out, but I'm not sure it's necessary.
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My experience was, being a soloist, that the first time I checked my pan whilst hunting with a flinter I was rather surprised to find it EMPTY!!!.
It was a windy day and I had given no care to how I carried the rifle.
Now I check the pan regularly and grease/seal it up on windy or wet days. THAT'S the best use of the tallow in the greasehole.
Wade, would you please explain how you seal the pan?
Thanks,
One Eye
Same as Bob ITW:
I work on the lock , making certain that the fit of the frizzed /pan is as true as I can get it. Held up to a strong light, it indicates a tight seal. No powder leakage. When hunting in inclement weather I'll rub a bit of my patch lube [tallow for me] around the edge of the pan to help keep any moisture out, but I'm not sure it's necessary.
Also, I no longer prime with 4f, finding that 2f stays in the pan better and lights quickly enough to get it done, and no extry horn.
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Thanks gentlemen ,
One Eye
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Daryl, Null B may be faster, but I have a lifetime supply of 4f.
Kermit- I only have 2 pounds 4F left. At some point, I hope to be able to test 4B- hopefully at Hefley, this year.