AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Heavies on January 13, 2017, 02:59:19 AM
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Hello,
As you might find from this posting I am very new to Blackpowder and flintlocks. I have experience in "modern" firearms and reloading, however, flints and black powder is very new to me. I was always interested in black powder and "primitive" type firearms, but just now, because of political reasons decided to dive head on into this ever so fun and satisfying aspect of the firearm world.
My first entry into flintlock weaponry is a gun broker find CVA mountain rifle in .45 Cal. It has a 1:66 twist barrel for patched round ball. It's lock is marked "Spain" The barrel and steel furniture is finished in brown.
At first I was frustrated by inconsistent ignition. I drilled the touch hole liner out to 1/16", and thus far have not yet had a misfire or slow ignition.
Now for my questions...
The frizzen does not have enough room with the lock at half cock to close. I've looked over the lock upwards and downwards and cannot figure a way to remedy this without major modification to the tumbler or cock... Is this a common problem that was encountered with these rifles?
This is a range rifle that can be primed and fired immediately at the firing line so it isn't too much of a huge deal breaker, but the OCD nature in me is bothered by the incorrect function of this.
Also, does anyone know of the history of this model of rifle and other quirks or tips for this vintage of rifle? Anything special to look for safety wise or otherwise?
So far I am very happy with the accurate nature of this rifle and it's ease of hitting my mark. I haven't been able to formerly work up a load for this rifle yet. I've been just loading up 45gr of Goex 3F, .440 lead round ball, and pre lubed .018" pillow ticking patch from Ox yoke. At 50 yards the balls fly to the mark with acceptable accuracy. Finding seating force upon the powder charge being key to more consistent impact on target. The rifle shoots a bit to the left, but I will fuss with regulating the sights when I settle on a load. My first passion in firearms has always been precision rifles, hence the CVA .45 was jumped upon, as I've read their good accuracy in a factory built piece. So far I've not been disappointed in this aspect.
I purchased this gun as a starter to get the feel of the flintlock and gain experience without running the risk of messing up a beautiful heirloom piece. Once I can get the hang of this, I am excited to get something more worthy of passing down to my children. I am exited to save up for a proper traditional flint someday.
Here are some pics for visualization of the issues. Any input or comment is much appreciated.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1000.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf127%2Fheaviescc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F20161231_143738_zpsygiw8gvd.jpg&hash=eaac69d25d865fe95496a7b1d9f57eadc1063b34) (http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/heaviescc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_143738_zpsygiw8gvd.jpg.html)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1000.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf127%2Fheaviescc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F20161231_143827_zpsvacjgh9d.jpg&hash=a0d0e72baf0e0a9c8aae555f8885d7ce5f346ba9) (http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/heaviescc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_143827_zpsvacjgh9d.jpg.html)
Half Cock.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1000.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf127%2Fheaviescc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F20161231_143903_zpsa3dghd6k.jpg&hash=5eb86b74ae46c686a9abda5d897acec747643a51) (http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/heaviescc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_143903_zpsa3dghd6k.jpg.html)
Full Cock.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1000.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf127%2Fheaviescc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F20161231_143923_zpsdlck32ju.jpg&hash=80a58f03762f9e41d3dd2e49fcc07e79577ec727) (http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/heaviescc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161231_143923_zpsdlck32ju.jpg.html)
Thank you for your input and experience!
-B
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Welcome to the wonderful world of flintlock shooting! Others here know much more than I, but it would seem an easy fix would be to use a smaller (shorter) flint. As long as the flint scrapes the frizzen enough to create sparks, but still allows the frizzen to close when at half-cock, you should be fine.
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Yep, either a shorter flint or make the cock stop a little further back. the sear on your gun that engages the half cock notch may be broken.
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If the flint is just a tiny bit long, you can knap some off the back edge or even grind a tiny bit off the back edge to shorten it up.
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Also if you are using a strip of lead to hold the flint, try a thin leather piece instead. This might give you a bit more clearance.
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Jeez, I'm all jealous of that grass. Lookit green grass!
Is that St. Augustine grass? I'm not South enough to grow it.
If you're not the "DIY" guy, buy shorter flints. Otherwise, do as above and check back in.
Welcome to rocklockin', where caps are not busted. :D
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Thank you for the replies.
I've tried shorter flint, leather, and knapping flint down. The geometry of the lock is such that even with no flint the nose of the cock actually touches the frizzen when on half cock.
Not sure about a broken sear. Looked good and it mates squarely on the full cock notch, but maybe I'll look a little closer. How do I make it stop further back?
Thank you, the grass is El Toro Zoysia. I also have cap and ball revolvers but definitely enjoy the rocklock better!
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aloha and welcome to the world of flintlocks.
what's already been posted with regards to the gun flints is good scoop. and now you know some of the bane of those spanish guns, not-so-good lock geometry. actually, a terrible lock design. L&R RPL has drop-in locks for some of the offshore italian guns, dunno if that applies to the spanish built guns. either that, or mail off the lock to a good gunsmith who should be able to remove the hammer cock and properly reshape its angle. i wish all newbies to flintlock rifles would seek out help before buying their first gun.
also, these offshore guns have patent breech plugs. that means that after the bore stops, there's an ante-chamber behind it that's about .375 or so in diameter, and at its rounded back wall is the dogleg flue touch hole (liner). a patched bore sized jag won't reach into that ante-chamber, but a .32 bronze or nylon bush will, with or without a cleaning patch on it. just something to consider and something that i consider worthy of cleaning.
enjoy the sparks, fire, smoke 'n' thunder - and best of luck with that gun. 8)
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I can see from your picture at half cock that the cock does not have adequate clearance, which you already knew when you tried it with the flint out of the jaws. As others have pointed out, that is a function of the incorrect geometry of those locks. It would take some very specific gunsmithing and quite a bit of work to correct that from someone that is very familiar with flintlocks, and by that, not by somebody that screws on AR parts and calls himself a gunsmith. It would require re-cutting the halfstock notch, remaking the detent for the fly and so on. Several hours of intricate work. If you can handle the issue at the range, I would leave it as is, just learn how to shoot it while loading at the line as you are doing. Based on the times I have been beaten in matches by CVA rifles, they are plenty accurate and good shooters. The only issue I have seen with these, has to deal with the hardening of the frizzens. I have had several come to me for repair where the flint has eventually worn through the case hardening of the lock. Again, this is fixable by a knowledgeable flintlock familiar gunsmith (That still has Kasenit around). Sounds like you are on the right track with your learning curve. One word of warning though, and I imagine it might be too late, once you start sparking flints, all other guns begin to lose their appeal!
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I can't believe CVA would make a gun that had to be fully cocked to hunt.
Then again it is CVA.
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Heavies,
L&R does make replacement locks for CVA rifles but their RPL locks aren't quite "drop-in". There is usually a little fiddling with the lock inlet to make it fit right. Here is what they list for CVA rifles:
http://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:cvatraditions-lock-small&catid=36:cva-small&Itemid=62
http://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72:cvatraditions-lock-large&catid=36:cva-small&Itemid=62
Lock plate dimensions are provided so check your current lock size to make sure if one of them would work for you and give L&R a call before you order one if you decide to go that way.
Mole Eyes
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having bought new and used ready to fire offshore trad ml's from both italy and spain, as well as their "kit" guns, since the early 70's, they're all nowhere in the league of an onshore *USA* built gun, using top shelf quality components, built by a good and reputable gun maker. just NO comparison.
this is not to say they're all bad, it's just that they all have issues and most notably the flint versions, due specifically to the locks used. as mentioned within other posts of this thread, the lock geometry is passable at best, and due to poor (or nonexistent) quality control, some are just pure junk.
what this does to a newbie trad ml flinter pilgrim is leave the ml game entirely or pursue a cap lock. this is really too bad, since most of us know the problem isn't that it's a flintlock rifle, it's typically the lock itself, along with the flintlock learning curve, that stymies the newbies.
no wonder the NMLRA is thinking seriously about allowing zip gun inlines into the organization, in order to bolster their membership due to all the old timers dying off and the ever thinning ranks to replace them.
i have no allegiance to any of these import manufacturers, but based on personal experience with more than 2 dozen new and assembled of their rifles and pistols, investarms is still the better value, and is sold under brand names such as lyman, cabela's, diixie gun works, and others. quality control is still spotty and ALL require tweaking and fondling ... but if done right, and with a little luck, they can make decent guns for those wishing to get into this game and/or infrequently shoot. but they're all stepping stones at best, imho. once hooked on a flinter, acquisition of far better gun will be imminent. typically sooner than later. which is always a good thing. ymmv.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asQQ0xO-fwY&t=40s
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The picture of the lock at half cock that you posted shows the cock far too close to the frizzen. This is a problem often encountered with Spanish locks. Half cock should have the cock at just a little forward of the full cock position. This will require a bit of, maybe costly, gunsmith work. A replacement lock from L&R would make the rifle an all around gun. These CVA rifles are almost always excellent shooters and the barrels are quite good even by American standards. The one I owned was accurate and took deer as well as any custom. Check with a skilled smith first, to find out the cost of modifying the lock. If it is much over $100 you might just go ahead and get an L&R replacement. And welcome to the forum, Heavies.
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With a stepped round punch, place the step on the center of the heal of the flint, and knapsack a notch in the heal so the flint heal straddles the jaw screw. The shorter flint will strike lower on the frizzen, but will allow you the carry the gun at half cock. Lube the lock with a light coat of permetex supper lube. The L&R replacement lock is grossly expensive and not a lot better that the lock you have.
Hungry Horse
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aloha and welcome to the world of flintlocks.
what's already been posted with regards to the gun flints is good scoop. and now you know some of the bane of those spanish guns, not-so-good lock geometry. actually, a terrible lock design. L&R RPL has drop-in locks for some of the offshore italian guns, dunno if that applies to the spanish built guns. either that, or mail off the lock to a good gunsmith who should be able to remove the hammer cock and properly reshape its angle. i wish all newbies to flintlock rifles would seek out help before buying their first gun.
also, these offshore guns have patent breech plugs. that means that after the bore stops, there's an ante-chamber behind it that's about .375 or so in diameter, and at its rounded back wall is the dogleg flue touch hole (liner). a patched bore sized jag won't reach into that ante-chamber, but a .32 bronze or nylon bush will, with or without a cleaning patch on it. just something to consider and something that i consider worthy of cleaning.
enjoy the sparks, fire, smoke 'n' thunder - and best of luck with that gun. 8)
having bought new and used ready to fire offshore trad ml's from both italy and spain, as well as their "kit" guns, since the early 70's, they're all nowhere in the league of an onshore *USA* built gun, using top shelf quality components, built by a good and reputable gun maker. just NO comparison.
this is not to say they're all bad, it's just that they all have issues and most notably the flint versions, due specifically to the locks used. as mentioned within other posts of this thread, the lock geometry is passable at best, and due to poor (or nonexistent) quality control, some are just pure junk.
what this does to a newbie trad ml flinter pilgrim is leave the ml game entirely or pursue a cap lock. this is really too bad, since most of us know the problem isn't that it's a flintlock rifle, it's typically the lock itself, along with the flintlock learning curve, that stymies the newbies.
no wonder the NMLRA is thinking seriously about allowing zip gun inlines into the organization, in order to bolster their membership due to all the old timers dying off and the ever thinning ranks to replace them.
i have no allegiance to any of these import manufacturers, but based on personal experience with more than 2 dozen new and assembled of their rifles and pistols, investarms is still the better value, and is sold under brand names such as lyman, cabela's, diixie gun works, and others. quality control is still spotty and ALL require tweaking and fondling ... but if done right, and with a little luck, they can make decent guns for those wishing to get into this game and/or infrequently shoot. but they're all stepping stones at best, imho. once hooked on a flinter, acquisition of far better gun will be imminent. typically sooner than later. which is always a good thing. ymmv.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asQQ0xO-fwY&t=40s
Yes, I did notice that little chamber on the end while looking in the bore with a flashlight. I've been careful to flush well after a shooting session to try to get that small area as clean of fouling as possible. Thank you for that tip on brush size to get into that area. That's very helpful. I do know what you mean about stepping stones, and that is what I intended with this rifle. I didn't want to drop thousands right off the bat and accidentally ruining a beautiful work of art, while learning the ins and outs beforehand. ;D
Thanks for checking out our forum here in Hawaii as well. Here we have a small group of black powder junkies that meet up twice a week for a fix... I'm a newbie to this aspect, they are very welcome and very helpful as well.
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Heavies,
L&R does make replacement locks for CVA rifles but their RPL locks aren't quite "drop-in". There is usually a little fiddling with the lock inlet to make it fit right. Here is what they list for CVA rifles:
http://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:cvatraditions-lock-small&catid=36:cva-small&Itemid=62
http://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=72:cvatraditions-lock-large&catid=36:cva-small&Itemid=62
Lock plate dimensions are provided so check your current lock size to make sure if one of them would work for you and give L&R a call before you order one if you decide to go that way.
Mole Eyes
The picture of the lock at half cock that you posted shows the cock far too close to the frizzen. This is a problem often encountered with Spanish locks. Half cock should have the cock at just a little forward of the full cock position. This will require a bit of, maybe costly, gunsmith work. A replacement lock from L&R would make the rifle an all around gun. These CVA rifles are almost always excellent shooters and the barrels are quite good even by American standards. The one I owned was accurate and took deer as well as any custom. Check with a skilled smith first, to find out the cost of modifying the lock. If it is much over $100 you might just go ahead and get an L&R replacement. And welcome to the forum, Heavies.
I've been looking at those replacement locks. They look quite good and easy to retrofit and replace.
I have also seen Siler locks with a blank plate that can be cut to match the existing lock plate. Could that be used as well? Or would the sear bar be in the wrong place? Is that position standard in small lock?
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With a stepped round punch, place the step on the center of the heal of the flint, and knapsack a notch in the heal so the flint heal straddles the jaw screw. The shorter flint will strike lower on the frizzen, but will allow you the carry the gun at half cock. Lube the lock with a light coat of permetex supper lube. The L&R replacement lock is grossly expensive and not a lot better that the lock you have.
Hungry Horse
I may try this. But like I mentioned before, even with no flint, the cock interferes with the frizzen.
Took another look at it last evening and if the top screw is turned with the flat facing towards the frizzen it will clear. However, the flint would be very very short, and would pretty much be striking the very bottom of the frizzen.
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I can see from your picture at half cock that the cock does not have adequate clearance, which you already knew when you tried it with the flint out of the jaws. As others have pointed out, that is a function of the incorrect geometry of those locks. It would take some very specific gunsmithing and quite a bit of work to correct that from someone that is very familiar with flintlocks, and by that, not by somebody that screws on AR parts and calls himself a gunsmith. It would require re-cutting the halfstock notch, remaking the detent for the fly and so on. Several hours of intricate work. If you can handle the issue at the range, I would leave it as is, just learn how to shoot it while loading at the line as you are doing. Based on the times I have been beaten in matches by CVA rifles, they are plenty accurate and good shooters. The only issue I have seen with these, has to deal with the hardening of the frizzens. I have had several come to me for repair where the flint has eventually worn through the case hardening of the lock. Again, this is fixable by a knowledgeable flintlock familiar gunsmith (That still has Kasenit around). Sounds like you are on the right track with your learning curve. One word of warning though, and I imagine it might be too late, once you start sparking flints, all other guns begin to lose their appeal!
AMEN. That is so true. I find myself wanting to take this flinter to the range more than many of my other rifles. It's more ritual and more relaxing.. definitely more wallet friendly.... well ammo wise anyway. :D
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You can bend the hammer a little bit to tip the nose of the flint down, and give yourself a little more space. But, don't tip it down any more than you absolutely have to.
Hungry Horse
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The fix I would apply here would be to weld shut the square tumbler hole on the cock. Using a piece of manila card board, trace the cock with flint profile in place to then cut out a new square hole in the card board pattern that fits over the exposed tumbler square at the exact distance you wish to have the cock from the frizzen. This likely will be about 1/8 inch more from frizzen. Now just glue your precise card board pattern to the welded up cock and begin the process to create your new square hole (drill center and file away) in the cock to fit exactly in your new determined position. When done you should have the clearance you desire. Your cock's throw (distance of travel from flint to frizzen) will be increased by the amount of change you imparted by relocating the square hole.
Good luck! Ray
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The fix I would apply here would be to weld shut the square tumbler hole on the cock. Using a piece of manila card board, trace the cock with flint profile in place to then cut out a new square hole in the card board pattern that fits over the exposed tumbler square at the exact distance you wish to have the cock from the frizzen. This likely will be about 1/8 inch more from frizzen. Now just glue your precise card board pattern to the welded up cock and begin the process to create your new square hole (drill center and file away) in the cock to fit exactly in your new determined position. When done you should have the clearance you desire. Your cock's throw (distance of travel from flint to frizzen) will be increased by the amount of change you imparted by relocating the square hole.
Good luck! Ray
That is certainly within my capabilities. I might try that method. Wondering if there would be some post weld heat treat you would recommend after welding?
Also to add..
When I looked at the tumbler the half cock notch looked really deep. Maybe deeper than it really needs to be. Maybe I could weld it and file it to a better depth... but then the heat treat question comes up again..
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One thing to think about before fixing one problem is the many other issues CVA locks are prone to. Weak springs, poorly hardened internal parts, improper frizzen to pan fit. I would hate to see you spend a lot of time on one problem only to be faced with others. My family started with CVA's back in the late 70's or so and I have personal experience with four flintlocks and three percussion. None of the flintlocks were any good, and 2 of the percussion locks would snap a cap. I would go the L&R route.
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yep, going to the L&R RPL lock is advisable and will make a World of functional difference (if the new lock is properly installed, and tuned, and with a good gun flint).
this is where the cheap part of cheap guns starts escalating in price, by plunking down near $200 more for a new and much needed better lock.
now here's the other problem with most offshore trad ml rifles - removing their patent breech plugs IF and WHEN that chore needs doing. this is a "can do" with investarms guns, a "maybe" with pedersoli guns, and a big "no no" with all the spanish guns (traditions and cva). but maybe there'll never ever be a need to pull that breech plug. hopefully.
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I wouldn't invest alot of time and money on that gun. Shoot it and have fun with it with the idea in mind you're eventually going to sell it and move up in quality.
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I wouldn't invest alot of time and money on that gun. Shoot it and have fun with it with the idea in mind you're eventually going to sell it and move up in quality.
Mike makes a good point, I used to have all those CVA's, now I shoot a trade gun made by some guy in Iowa ;D! What a world of difference!
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I literally wore a. .50 mountain rifle out, in about five years of heavy shooting. The lock was a perpetual problem. The parts vary in degrees of hardness from soft as butter, to hard as glass. Mine was a percussion, and I had trouble with the drum, the mainspring, and eventually the barrel just didn't have enough rifleing left to allow it to stabilize the ball anymore. I would not waste a lot of time and money on one of these guns. You will be perpetually working on it if you shoot it much.
Hungry Horse
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I agree with Mike as well, $175 for an L&R replacement is too much of an investment for a CVA gun unless you think this will be your go to gun forever.
Another thing; I am putting an L&R replacement lock in a TC Renegade. I am an experienced builder and have found this is a very challenging task. Here is what I have found so far on the switch;
1. The lock doesn't fit the existing mortis, not even close, it is undersized and will need a bunch of wood glued in to fill up the gaps.
2. you have to remove a bunch of wood for the lock internals, so much there is not a lot of wood left for strength in the breech area.
3. The existing lock bolt hole through the stock is way off and won't align with hole on the lock.
4. the touch hole is way off from being centered on the lock pan, the barrel has to be moved a lot.
5. The inletted lock hits on the barrel tang, so the tang has to be ground off on one side to accommodate the lock.
My point is, do you want to go to this much trouble on a CVA rifle?
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Also to add..
When I looked at the tumbler the half cock notch looked really deep. Maybe deeper than it really needs to be. Maybe I could weld it and file it to a better depth... but then the heat treat question comes up again..
Heavies,
Using soft-solder (or a really good two part epoxy), attach a wedge, shim or slug into the half cock notch to (slightly) reduce the depth of engagement and shoot the heck out of it until you learn the ropes ... While saving for or building the gun of your dreams. ;)
Cheers,
Smoketown
PS
Although soldering would be better, unless the hammer slips, there should be no 'real load' on the half cock notch so epoxy should work.
I suppose you could also drill and tap for a set-screw if you're so inclined. ;D
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I wouldn't mess around with the half cock notch, since that is essentially your safety if you choose to carry the gun loaded. I would adjust the angle of the cock, and look for a cheap Spanish pistol lock that was used on many cheap kit guns a few years ago. The top jaw on these locks are shorter, and wider, which allows for a little better geometry if you add in a slight bend to the cock. These cheap locks are easily recognizable by the odd finial on the forward end of the frizzen, and some very convincing cast in engraving on the top jaw.
Hungry Horse
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Make a sear with a longer nose.....done.
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Super ideas. Thank you. Looking at it just now it seems either lengthening the sear or filling the half cock notch maybe .030 or .040 would give clearance for the small flint. Maybe I'll search around for the proper sear and either weld up and file down the old or maybe an other will be of proper length. Having an extra just in case would be prudent.
For now just going to shoot it as is. Not taking this hunting, right now anyway, so being careful, should be alright.
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The easiest way is to silver solder a piece of tool steel to the existing sear. Filing on the notches will take you in the wrong direction and probably ruin the tumbler.
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Remove your lead wrap from the flint and place it in sideways so the flint can be mounted farther back. Or by shorter flints. You will not be satisfied with a Siler gunsmiths lock because most likely the relationship between the location of the pan and the sear will have the wrong dimensions. When using a Siler gunsmiths lock kit the first thing is to make sure the pan can line up where it is centered with the touchhole and the sear arm is in the same location as the original. I'd just make do with the lock you have.
Bob
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He mentioned twice that the cock hits the frizzen with no flint in it. Nothing he can do with the flint is going to help.
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That cock is way too close to the frizzen for any flint finagling to fix. The cock needs to be bent back or straightened a bit in order to clear the frizzen at half cock. I'm not at all familiar with those locks but would wonder if the screw holding the cock to the lock plate could possibly be removed and then reinserted with the cock positioned farther back.
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The cock on this lock mounts on a square boss, and cannot be rotated by just removing the hammer screw. Probably the best way to get this thing fixed without messing up the internal parts, is to weld up the square hole in the hammer, and reorient the square hole to give you more throw, and more room at half cock. IMO welding and or soldering on the internals is asking for trouble. And if you do screw it up, I guarantee it will be a lot easier to find another cock than it will be the internals. I've own many CVA guns with this lock and have extra external parts, but no internal parts, there's a message there.
Hungry Horse
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Heavies,
For CVA parts you might try
Deer Creek Products, New Legacy Sales.
6989 E Michigan Rd
Waldron , IN 46182
765-525-6181
I think Deer Creek is the company that purchased all the remaining CVA parts from the first CVA company.
They also have a website.
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I have had a CVA mountain rifle which I built from a kit in the early years, been an accurate rifle with over 4,000 rounds. The rifle has won its share at Friendship, and now held as a backup. This I will add, inner lock and trigger parts are hard and need some help. I have replaced the sear twice, trigger once, and main sprang once. Thinking should throw parts in the furnace, would half to check for temperature.
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Well Darn. Cocks from other locks have the square cut out for the tumbler at a different location. Maybe the hammer was changed out at one time with a hammer that originally went on another lock. It would be neat if you could try a cock from another CVA lock.
Bob
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Thanks for all the great replies and ideas.
Went out to the range on Sunday to play with some loads. From 45 grains to 65 grains in 5 grain increments. Goex 3F, .440 hornady ball, .018" precut and lubed Ox yoke patch.
Best group of the day was 50 grains. 10 ring is about 1", used a six o'clock hold at 50 yards. Shot off the bench. I hate shooting from the bench...
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1000.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf127%2Fheaviescc%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2F20170115_103303_zpsdow9kg4y.jpg&hash=a35afbe8df19288866624cc816107075b5867c9a) (http://s1000.photobucket.com/user/heaviescc/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170115_103303_zpsdow9kg4y.jpg.html)
Waiting on some .445 ball to come in. Plan on trying that. Maybe some thicker patch and experiment with different lubes.
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All of these CVA, Traditions, and other lower priced import rifles have the same problem. You just learn to adapt to their shortcomings and live with them. In many cases, replacing the lock with an RPL would exceed the original price of the rifle when new. I did have a couple of friends who had theirs restocked and upgraded the lock in the process.