AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: David R. Pennington on June 25, 2017, 09:33:13 PM
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For those using boiled linseed oil, how many coats do you use? Do you sand or steel wool between coats? Also any one use tung oil over blo?
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I use a BLO based finished. I apply the finish very thin; one drop at at time on a finger. I do not sand or rub with steel wool between coats. I keep applying coats until the finish starts to take on a semi-gloss appearance. Then I rub back to a satin finish using a white Scotchbrite pad. You need to let the oil dry between coats. Putting it in the sun helps the drying a lot. How many coats you need depends on how porous/dense the wood is.
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Hi David,
Yes, you can put tung oil over linseed oil. Generally, with most finishes, if they can be thinned by the same solvent, they will be compatible. Just make sure one layer is thoroughly dry before using the a different finish.
dave
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don't remember were I read it but the guy said "once a day for a week, once a week for a month and once a month for a year" he also said you could use it after that first month. wish I could remember its that oldtimers disease
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Hi David,
Yes, you can put tung oil over linseed oil. Generally, with most finishes, if they can be thinned by the same solvent, they will be compatible. Just make sure one layer is thoroughly dry before using the a different finish.
dave
I will add to the highlighted sentence - dry AND HARD, before you add another coat.
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Use something else. It ain't worth the hassle and the end results are the same.
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Just my 2p worth: about 40 years ago, I was shown by an old timer how to add some hot caustic soda solution to linseed oil, stir it thoroughly and leave it for a few days in a glass jar. After a few days, one will find a much clearer linseed oil floating and it is carefully decanted into a dark glass bottle, leaving the deposited $#@* behind. Use this purified linseed oil with about 5% turpentine ( the real stuff sold at art shops. It is quite expensive, but a small bottle will last a long time ) on the stock. It is applied by either rubbing it in with the palm of your hand or a supple piece of leather till wood feels warm and will not take any more oil . It does not take long to dry and harden, even in rather damp conditions. Only cut it after a few coats make headway in filling the pores. Forget steel wool or pumice. use a white scouring pad except for the last coat or two, then use something finer. For a gleaming sheen at the end use 'smoker's toothpaste, and if this is too rich for you, then use 0000 grade steel wool for a matter sheen
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About a year ago a guy suggested I watch this video. https://youtu.be/GUyXm2IL4OQ
It is an expensive project to make linseed oil, a small bottle of flax seed oil costs a lot more than a gallon of store bought BLO. But I like it, I made up 3 mixes, one straight from the video's process, one mixed about 50/50 with pure turpentine and another with dissolved beeswax. I use the turp linseed oil mix for the first coat and get pretty good penetration. Let it dry for a day or 2, usually on the sun. Second and subsequent coats are the straight linseed oil, last coat is the beeswax linseed oil mix.
There is no "plastic" feeling plastic like the store bought varnishes, it protects the wood, and feels natural. I have used it exclusively on my custom tool handles for almost a year. On some turned bowls, I used the same process, and they have survived with everyday use. But I have reapplied the beeswax mix several times.