AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Tutorials => Gunmaking tools and techniques- metal shaping => Topic started by: Curtis on January 11, 2018, 08:52:38 AM
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I have been meaning to get around to post a few pics of my latest project, and am finally getting around to it. I prefer building a flinter, however this gun is for my son and will be his first muzzleloader and his deer rifle. He requested a halfstock percussion rifle. Fair enough if it gets him hooked on shooting black power guns! ;)
I started sawing the stock a couple of weeks before Christmas...
(https://preview.ibb.co/bYfwK6/PC060476.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fP9qe6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hfXAe6/PC060478.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j78SRm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i7xMmm/PC060481.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cxa7Rm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iFSbK6/PC060484.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kScyXR)
A little cleanup with a framing chisel, then some leveling with a plane:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mNFP6m/PC060486.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fg1Le6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hNHFCR/PC070488.jpg) (https://ibb.co/maBLe6)
This was a fantastic chunk of wood as far as grain flow, density and figure, but was about a half inch too short for the project - So I stretched the stock a but by gluing on an extension, which will be under the nosecap when the rifle is completed. The extension was glued on oversize and cut shorter later. I dovetailed a nib in the center of the stock. Not a true dovetail but not sure how to properly term it...
(https://preview.ibb.co/gatGK6/PC070489.jpg) (https://ibb.co/evakCR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mMLJXR/PC080492.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hVrQCR)
In-letting the barrel. If your gouge is sharp and you go with the grain your cuts should be shiny. If you look at the last pic in the series you can see how well the glue is holding, even after being shaved with the gouge!
(https://preview.ibb.co/bQNRK6/PC080494.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b2DYz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ibWxRm/PC100495.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j1OYz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mDLDz6/PC100496.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cUej6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d0Htz6/PC100499.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iHdNsR)
When the barrel sides are close enough to the wood I scribe along the side of the barrel and stab in the lines with a chisel. Then the channel is finished with chisels, gouges and scrapers. I generally don't bent the tang until the barrel is pretty well in.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gE3K6m/PC100497.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kafMK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n8DK6m/PC100498.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iPSOXR)
Barrel is in! This barrel is tapered, 1" to 7/8" in .54.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dHMTz6/PC110500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fqx1K6)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I refine the profile of the stock near to what I think its finished dimensions should be, then start cutting the widths to size. I like to use a larger gouge for quick material removal.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eXE3XR/PC160503.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/hiPRmm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cwNCRm/PC160505.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/kn3xsR)
When I make a mistake, I like to show how I attempt to correct it. Mistakes are great learning tools, especially when it's someone else's mistake!! ;D When I was sawing the width of the forestock, I got carried away with my saw and cut things way to narrow in one spot. To fix it, I used some scrap from the cutoff wood adjacent to the boo-boo. I filed the saw marks off and glued the patch in with even clamping pressure. On the ends that butt together I drew on the wood with a brown Sharpie. With careful selection of wood orientations, the patch will be virtually invisible when the rifle is stained and finished if your joints are good and tight. I forgot to take a picture before I glued the patch in... and yes, the scrap piece has the extension still glued to the end as you can see!
(https://preview.ibb.co/kdLrmm/PC180506.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/nDe6K6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eDU6K6/PC180507.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/mJs46m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k06Le6/PC190514.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/nK0fe6)
Inlet buttplate, starting to form the cheek, then drilling the ramrod hole:
(https://preview.ibb.co/eZS1K6/PC180512.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/d2rTz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hapFe6/PC190516.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/f2EgK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nndae6/PC190517.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/hX0oz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k0DK6m/PC220522.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/eqr6mm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/meZRmm/PC220524.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/nxj3XR)
Starting to shape the stock, designing sideplate. I like to draw the sideplate directly on the rifle stock and make a tracing, then transfer the image to the metal.
(https://preview.ibb.co/ii8rK6/P1010548.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/gZgBK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k0Ubmm/P1010550.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/gtZnsR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bXzLCR/P1020551.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/iUeLCR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i732Rm/P1020553.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/fQ1p6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/djktXR/P1020554.jpg) (http://httpss://ibb.co/kBHke6)
Curtis
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I wanted a German Silver side plate, but didn't have any GS thick enough - so I soldered a piece of 40 thou GS to some brass, cut the plate out with a hack saw and jeweler's saw, then finished with files.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gsj3XR/P1020555.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hPLcsR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fpE3XR/P1020557.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bUc1K6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iCFcsR/P1030560.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mQ9gK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cB8xsR/P1030566.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fkSCRm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/f4yK6m/P1030567.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iuiVCR)
Ramrod pipes were then rolled up using GS, then silver soldered a piece of brass and GS together for a two tone toeplate. The brass piece was cut to match the GS and filed for a close fit before joining with silver solder.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kfcnRm/P1050569.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i71E6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nhJu6m/P1070570.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k2zOz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mz5JXR/P1070571.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jRVkCR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bVedXR/P1070572.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e4yu6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mycMmm/P1070573.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nNVwK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jozZ6m/P1070574.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nP2XsR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mO57Rm/P1070578.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hkJSRm)
Trimming end of toeplate, then ready to inlet:
(https://preview.ibb.co/jOffe6/P1070579.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k9xRK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d4oBmm/P1070580.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b84j6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mp5rmm/P1070582.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ni6aCR)
That's it for now, thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Nice work! I'm getting the urge to start a Ohio style sporting rifle that I finally gathered all the parts for.
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Curtis, I always like your posts. Son should cherish that rifle a long time, grandkids too. Nice work! Nate
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Great series & Pix, I like the way you use the clamps when drilling the RR hole, especially the modification to the one closest to the hole.
Tim
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I'm looking forward to following this. I have an old Ohio percussion muzzleloader that my Dad had around the house for over 40 years until he passed away. Now I have it and had Jack Brooks do some work on it. I've wanted to post pictures on this site to see if anyone could help me ID the maker or provide any insight but I haven't done it yet.
I'm anxious to see how this one comes out, so far it's looking reallly nice.
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Nicely done Curtis. You've shown the Newbies that a lot of problems, and/or mistakes can be repaired or hidden with a little ingenuity.
BUT, dang dude, you need a bandsaw.
Again, nice job.
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Thanks for your comments guys! Tim, I learned how to modify the clam you mentioned in one of Jack Brooks classes at the NMLRA gusnsmithing seminar, it has proved to be quite useful. It is hard to tell from the photos but in addition to the plethora of clamps I taped some spacers on the barrel to help keep the drill level and also employed a couple of velcro loops. A wondering ramrod drill can be a disastrous thing... yup, that is the voice of experience!
Smallpatch - a bandsaw would speed things up a bit, but believe it or not the last time I used a bandsaw I removed too much wood then also. Just faster, lol! And yes, a mistake just creates an opportunity to get creative and figure out how to get past the issue.
Curtis
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Curtis, thanks for posting this build. Can't wait to start on my first build. Watching you guys just gets me that much more fired up about getting it going. Great job and keep us posted.
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That looks like an old felloe saw. How well does it work? I've got a 28" rip blade for a bow-saw that I've always intended to make into a saw like that, but never got around to doing it. I don't have a bandsaw and probably won't ever have one, so it seems like a good substitute.
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V Good job, Curtis!
You had me worried running that gouge in the barrel channel without stabbing in first though! ;)
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JVarek, glad to hear it! The main reason I post this stuff is to help out and/or get fired up the new builders!
Elnathan, the felloe saw works pretty well. I was seriously contemplating making one myself until I found this one at a swap meet for eighteen bucks!
Pukka, just living on the edge ya know! Sometimes I stab in a bit narrower than the barrel until I can get the bottom three flats down, then go full width. This wood was well behaved and not "chippy" if I gouged in the right direction so I wasn't too worried about having a runner bust out of my channel width.
Curtis
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I spent some time today making a muzzle cap for the rifle. I wanted to create a cap with an angled front that is featured on many halfstocks... I'm sure that style of cap has a name however if so it has eluded me. :(
The past couple of rifles I have built I stabbed in the back of the recess with a chisel instead of using a saw, treating it like an inlet. Got help from a bit of masking tape as a guide to help keep my lines straight, then employed a rasp and a file to remove the remaining wood under the cap area.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gR27Bm/P1090589.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b2yfWm)
I normally use the rifle stock to shape and form the muzzlecap, however since this style of cap will require some serious hammering I decided to mock up a solid model of the rifle forend.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jGRjrm/P1090590.jpg) (https://ibb.co/knJaxR)
...and then filed the appropriate flats on the face of the model.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eRr0Wm/P1090594.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nPFij6)
Next comes forming the cap:
(https://preview.ibb.co/kDdB46/P1090595.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cbffxR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iQO0xR/P1100596.jpg) (https://ibb.co/inoB46)
(https://preview.ibb.co/de13HR/P1100598.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k6YuP6)
Now for the final fitting process... I filed my angled flats on the nose of the stock and started working the cap into place.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hxJscR/P1110599.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n6wOj6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dvrZrm/P1110600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iKw0Wm)
I made a couple of simple accessories a few guns back that help with forming the cap and prevent splitting the stock. One is made from scrap oak and the other a ramrod cutoff. The pictures are self explanatory. I then employ some "Dickert approved" hose clamps to draw the cap metal down tight around the stock.
(https://preview.ibb.co/b3K146/P1110602.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nFcoj6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cQB3HR/P1110603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ktiuP6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fEAxcR/P1110605.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hnkVxR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mWUqxR/P1110606.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kztHcR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/j7ZZP6/P1110609.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iDZqxR)
After I get the shape I am looking for I float the faces on a file to true things up so one side mates nicely with the wood and the other is ready for soldering.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jXShBm/P1110610.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gwPjP6)
This side still needs work:
(https://preview.ibb.co/f71ncR/P1110611.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dZQDHR)
Next I set up for silver soldering. I just recently learned a simple trick from an accomplished builder and friend, Hank Elwood. Hank in turn learned it from Joe Valentine in a class at WKU. The simple trick is to heat the flux until the water boils off before you position the solder on the work - this keeps the solder from moving away from the joint before it melts.
First I cut a piece of german silver to fit the cap. For the setup I "clamped" the work in place with the weight of a section or RR spike, boiled off the water in the flux, placed the solder where it would flow out the joint and then applied the heat. In the last couple of pics you can see the solder really flowed well.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bTvPP6/P1110612.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cVe7cR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/exgLxR/P1110614.jpg) (https://ibb.co/heiYHR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hjCFWm/P1110616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kCXFWm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gQ47cR/P1110618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fsTYHR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jsSDj6/P1110620.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dTOm46)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m0maWm/P1110621.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jKS4P6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/igTxBm/P1110624.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hvAAWm)
Cut off the excess metal, then do the final fitting and cleanup:
(https://preview.ibb.co/i0O8HR/P1110626.jpg) (https://ibb.co/juPtj6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iPceP6/P1110628.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nsxeP6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hW8VWm/P1110630.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h0HeP6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d51vxR/P1110632.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kXYm46)
Mark the inside for the barrel cutout, then make room for that barrel! It doesn't show well but I marked inside the barrel channel with a blue sharpie then with a scribe.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fpyQxR/P1110633.jpg) (https://ibb.co/giz9P6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mzG0Wm/P1110634.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nP9b46)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gsA5xR/P1110635.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hQmdHR)
A little filing on the top of the cap to bring it level with the stock and it is ready to rivet in place! Well, gotta clean up that face a bit also...
That's all for now, and thanks for looking! :)
Curtis
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I can tell that rifle is a labor of love. Thank you for posting all the great progress pictures.
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That's a nice bit of work, Curtis.
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Curtis, I always admire and appreciate you showing how it's done
never to late to learn something different
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Thanks guys! Elk Killer, I learn so much here so it makes me want to share ideas back. The same processes may not work for everyone, but sometimes seeing a different method of doing things can set a guy to thinkin', and you never know where that can lead!
Curtis
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Nice to see well done silver soldering.
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Too much to comment on here, Curtis, I like it all!
Where did you find the brown Sharpie for wood repair?
The felloe saw is very cool and undoubtedly saves on the electric bill created by a band saw, but I think I'll stick by my old band saw as long as it keeps turning.
Looking forward to more!
Gregg
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Thanks Daryl and Gregg. Gregg, the brown Sharpie is simply that, a brown Sharpie that can be purchased at hobby lobby, wally world, or an office supply store. It just served to darken the edges with a brownish color, was handy and dries almost instantly.
Curtis
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Curtis,
Nice job on the muzzle cap. It looks like it turned out great! I originally wanted to post some kind of smart-alecky remark about you and your ever present rail road spike but could not come up with any thing clever. Totally enjoying your thread.
David
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Thanks Dave! That means a lot coming from you, I have seen you makes some really nice caps.
On the other hand, consarn it, I like railroad spikes, they have a thousand and one uses! They are always getting a bad rap for being dense, hard headed, rough around the edges and are often accused of being dull!! Even though I used the one depicted above as dead weight, it rose to the occasion nicely and laid there the whole time I was soldering, with nary a complaint. ;D 8) ;D
Now getting off my soapbox, lol!
Curtis
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Here are some pics of the muzzle cap with the barrel in place:
(https://preview.ibb.co/m0d9z6/P1120640.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n1NrCR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/f5T9z6/P1120641.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bNhDRm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/g8y9z6/P1120643.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nnTWCR)
Got the toeplate inlet, sideplate and TG as well:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mXbjXR/P1160644.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fiehK6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/etGjXR/P1160650.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jHLBCR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jUZ2mm/P1160656.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n4tHK6)
Getting started making the barrel key escutcheon inlays, and working on some ideas on yellow "sticky notes":
(https://preview.ibb.co/bX5NK6/P1120636.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f88L6m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hCN2K6/P1120637.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j86Uz6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nkWwe6/P1120639.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k5CPXR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ikmUz6/P1160653.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gTcrCR)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis "RR Spike" A. ::)
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What wonderful how to thread Curtis,watching you fix a couple oops along the way is gold for new builders.Its one thing to be told how to but to see pictures along with it really helps.A real nice rifle in the making,thanks!
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That is lovely work Curtis, and your photos come out so nice. Thank you for sharing with us!
God Bless, Marc
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Curtis,
good work! Nice to see another build-along.
Nice touch, adding Curtis "RR Spike" A. to your name....
Norm
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I sure wish ya lived closer. I would like to think i would be like a church mouse while watching ya. But I would probably beat your ear with questions the whole time. Thanks for the updates. I do wish someone lived closer just to watch one being built. Keep up with the post please.
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All your too kind comments are appreciated fellas. JVarek, living in PA you should have someone fairly close that might be willing to let you come and observe them building a gun.
Curtis "RR Spike" A.
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I drew up a patchbox inspired by an original box, with a couple of modifications. I cut the pattern out and stuck it to the metal with spray adhesive, then cut it out using a jewelwer's saw. I am thinking about mixing brass and german silver, may change my mind on that before I start to inlet it.
(https://preview.ibb.co/d5gTUG/P1170657.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fk00bw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iVcrib/P1170658.jpg) (https://ibb.co/buN2pG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/npTa9G/P1180659.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jVZF9G)
I refined the shape of the cheek rest a bit, then accentuated the concave shape using first a plane, then half round rasp, file and finished up with a scraper.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mhtxOb/P1180661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dEM6Gw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nuLBib/P1180664.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fyfBib)
Curtis
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Time for some slots in the forestock escutcheons - I drew the slot in, then made four punch marks to prepare for drilling.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hD6Z3b/P1180668.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kBaiww)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ej0GGw/P1180670.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j85iww)
I cut the slots with a saw and clean them up with files.
(https://preview.ibb.co/k1UMib/P1180666.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hCjAbw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dZ9bGw/P1180673.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eT9Mib)
Using an appropriately curved piece of maple (a pistol blank in this case) and a pipe I add some curvature to the inlay. I needed a bit more curve at the bottom of the inlay so I used an iron pipe for backing and a punch to shape the inlay. Yes Dave, I am using a cutoff railroad spike for a punch in that last photo! :P
(https://preview.ibb.co/cbpeKG/P1180677.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hsA8Db)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dO4qRw/P1180680.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b4AVRw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dfEPmw/P1180681.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iptvtb)
I check for fit, then scribe around the inlay and start stabbing in with a home made chisel.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hEPwzG/P1180685.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k4976w)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mmWn6w/P1180689.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dKzwzG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hF6bzG/P1180690.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kCZktb)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n28pKG/P1180693.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kUXGzG)
Thanks for looking!
Curtis
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Nice. Curtis, how thick are those escutcheons?
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Thanks for keeping us posted Curtis, I'm going to the 20th annual Bushy Run Historic Arms Show Colton Hall, Claridge, PA. it is about a hour from here I hope we get to talk with some builders there.
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Nice. Curtis, how thick are those escutcheons?
Thanks and they are too thick, Rich, about .050 if I remember properly what it measured. Why so thick? The last escutcheons I did were .030 and by the time I filed them down a bit they had some spots that were almost too thin to engrave, in fact I perforated one with a graver and had to fix it. At the time I started this project I had some .030 sheets of German silver, and a bag of GS scraps of various thickness I purchased at the CLA show a couple of years ago. .040 would have been my choice of thickness for the escutcheons, but of course I had none in my bag of scraps - so I used the next thickest I had, .050. I will probably leave the inlays slightly proud and then file them flush with the wood, hopefully giving me about .040 thickness to work with and engrave. We will see if things work out as planned.... I should have prepped better and purchased a sheet of .040 german silver, I hadn't planned that far ahead. In fact I just decided on the eagle theme while I was shaping the stock and wondering where I was going to head with this one.
I should probably plan ahead better, however when I start a project that is not based on an original work I usually just see where the gun wants to take me artistically. I was looking at some of J. Fleeger's work and it influenced where to go with this one.
JVarek, enjoy the show and I hope you have luck conversing with some builders there. I'm sure you will find someone willing to help out!
Curtis
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Curtis,
Great job! Looking forward to your continued progress on this rifle. I know your son will be proud of it. I have a question for you. It is always difficult holding small pieces of brass on the cutting block for your jewelers saw work. You show some of the Woodcraft quick action toggle clamps on your and looks like they do the trick of holding the piece of stock so you can concentrate on cutting the piece out accurately. Do you remember the size of the toggle clamps you used? Thanks and following your work closely. Enjoy your posts.
Gary
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Thanks so much Gary, I think my son will be glad to have the rifle and I hope he takes it out and shoots it, a lot!
The clamps in question are from Harbor Freight, currently priced at $5.99, and the comparable one at woodcraft is listed at $21.50. I cannot compare the quality of the two as I have no experience with the woodcraft model - but I can say I am quite pleased with the harbor freight ones I have. I purchased them for a project about eight years ago and never used them, one day last year I was struggling with holding work-pieces on my v-board while sawing with the jewelers saw, using multiple c-clamps etc., when I remembered the toggle clamps and gave them a try. Man, has it made life easier when sawing inlays, patchboxes etc.! Sometimes I still have to add a c-clamp or use a scrap of metal to extend the reach of the clamps, but it has simplified holding the stock a great deal.
Here is a link to the Harbor Freight model (bought mine at a local store): https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-horizontal-toggle-clamp-96233.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-horizontal-toggle-clamp-96233.html)
Woodcraft comparable: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-low-silhouette-toggle-clamp-6-1-2-x-1-3-4-500-lb-capacity (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-low-silhouette-toggle-clamp-6-1-2-x-1-3-4-500-lb-capacity)
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Haven't had much time in the shop the past couple of days, but had enough time today to make some progress with inletting the escutcheons. I find it helpful to employ a small block of wood or similar object when tapping such inlays in place, it helps to prevent bending or dinging the metal by spreading the impact.
(https://preview.ibb.co/m75UMw/P1200695.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iHLJEG)
This is a simple tool I made for cleaning out corners and small, hard to reach spots. Made from a small screwdriver or hex driver:
(https://preview.ibb.co/dmdadb/P1200696.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eRw6jG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n2tadb/P1200698.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kUH1Jb)
(https://preview.ibb.co/b8YVBw/P1200699.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jb5MJb)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ki8VBw/P1200700.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6Az4G)
Got one nailed in and filed down, the other ready to drill and nail:
(https://preview.ibb.co/ikiQdb/P1200702.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fRq5db)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kreyyb/P1200706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mOEWJb)
Thanks for looking, Curtis
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That's really coming together, Curtis. Does the ubiquitous rail spike in the last pic have a purpose? ;D
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Curtis,
Thanks for the info about the toggle information. Can you tell me how long they are? I hope they will fit my vee board but then I might just have to make a new one. I will get to Harbor Freight to get a couple. They look like they work really good and especially at a much better price. I a lost ordered some of the smaller ones from Woodcraft but had held of. Glad I did and thanks for the info! This is going to be an awesome looking rifle. Watching and waiting for your continued progress.
Gary
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Curtis, Thank you again for keeping us updated. You sure are giving this new guy some great ideas. love the home made tools.
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Does the ubiquitous rail spike in the last pic have a purpose? ;D
Rail Road spike? What railroad spike? I don't see no railroad spike! 8)
Now if I were an ornery person, perhaps I may have photobomed (with a RR spike) about 9 pics or so of my last couple of postings, just to see if Sir David Rase was paying any attention here..... ;) But since ornery doesn't describe me accurately in the least, I have to say that I have no idea what you are talking about, and I don't see no railroad spike, ubiquitous or not. ::) ::) ::)
Curtis
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Gary, the clamps are about 6" long total, but probably just a little more than 4" from the rear mounting holes forward. In my opinion if you had to make a new vee-board it would be worth it for the ease of use. Ant thanks for the vote of confidence on the rifle, I hope it turns out nice!
JVarek, idea sharing is what this site is all about! Glad I could get some mental gears meshing for ya.
Curtis
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Managed to get some more shop time in today, got the second escutcheon nailed in place and filed flush.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gvD5eG/P1210708.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eFuYYb)
(https://preview.ibb.co/e5VkeG/P1210709.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fzVU6w)
Made some progress with the patchbox... Sawed out the hinges and got them fit together.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gPsbmw/P1210711.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bs4BKG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fKpp6w/P1210712.jpg) (https://ibb.co/emDGmw)
I like to lay the box pieces out on the butt and look at them a while to make sure I like the positioning.
(https://preview.ibb.co/e2yhRw/P1210713.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cUN96w)
When satisfied with the location, I bent some curve into the hinge, lid and finial, cut some relief below the hinge area and screwed the finial in place. Then I scribed around the finial:
(https://preview.ibb.co/cM4TzG/P1210714.jpg) (https://ibb.co/itssRw)
Then inlet the finial flush with the wood. I used .032 metal for the box.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kzFCRw/P1210715.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mXrmmw)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Curtis,
Nice inletting on that eagle escutcheon! Enjoying this build-along very much.
RR spike?? I see notinck!! Noootink!
Norm
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Made a little more progress today. After getting the finial inlet into the buttstock, I went ahead and excavated the patchbox cavity to get the excess wood out of the way.
(https://preview.ibb.co/ejbagw/P1220717.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dTAe8b)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bCHsTb/P1220718.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hbMK8b)
I plan on using a friction spring arrangement for the patchbox lid, and in order to open the lid I needed to make a finger recess in the bottom piece of the box. I have never done this before, but decided I could probably use a scrap of hardwood for the form. So I cut a recess in a block of hardwood with a gouge, clamped it in my vice and used a round face punch the shape the annealed metal into the recess. It worked pretty well.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mQA1Mw/P1220720.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bsS3ZG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dtpHuG/P1220721.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bTxgMw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iBiMMw/P1220722.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fUg81w)
(https://preview.ibb.co/f9hWMw/P1220724.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eb7y1w)
After cutting a similar recess in the stock, I screwed the bottom piece in place, scribed around it and the side pieces, and started to inlet them all. I ran out of time before getting it finished.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kBDSuG/P1220726.jpg) (https://ibb.co/djhbob)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hz6fEG/P1220727.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dckwob)
It will probably be a week or two before I get the chance to get back in the shop and continue working on the rifle. See you then!
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Are You kidding me? I can't be waiting a week or two ;)
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It will probably be a week or two before I get the chance to get back in the shop and continue working on the rifle. See you then!
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
Sounds like you are letting retirement get in the way of gun building!
Norm
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That's looking great, Curtis! I really like the muzzlecap, very nice work!
Ed
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Looking super. I like the thumbnail recess for the lid. Very nice. God Bless, Marc
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Thanks for your kind words, gentlemen! ....and Norm! :P
Curtis
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Fantastic thread!
Thank you!
~Tony
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As always with your builds it is looking great.
How old is your son?
You making plans to come to Friendship this year? Bring your son?
My oldest starts work for Caterpillar in OH on Feb 05. The great thing is that he will be less than 2 hours from Friendship. I am thinking that he might finally be able to come and hopefully join my youngest son and I this year.
Fleener
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Hi, and thank you Curtis for a great tutorial.
You have passed on some great concepts.
My artistic capabilities are just about equal to drawing stick men.
The manner in which you have paper glued to the brass, then drawing in a pattern seems much better than working directly on brass.
Question: How long have you been using that RR spike to blunt the tip so square? ::)
Thank you once again, looking forward to the next demo.
Best regards!
Fred
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Thanks guys! Snapper, my son turned 30 last June. Not sure if I will make Friendship yet or not, but I hope to be there. Probably won't get my son there, not yet anyways.
Fred, I usually draw on the paper before I glue it the brass but sometimes I make corrections after it is on the brass. If I want to draw directly on the brass, like to engrave a design, I often hit it with some cheap white spray paint and it makes a durable surface to draw and erase on when dry. In my experience it is more durable than china white, but still is easily removed after engraving.
Curtis
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Curtis,
Looking good! I really liked the little tool you made for cleaning out corners and small, hard to reach spots. I usually use a skew chisel and one of my small (1/32" wide) wire inlay chisels. Going to have to make another tool.
David
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Curtis,
Looking good! I really liked the little tool you made for cleaning out corners and small, hard to reach spots...
David
You won't regret it David, this one comes in handy a lot, especially cleaning out the inlet of a pointy tang. It is sharp enough that it cuts well with a side to side motion as well as a push in a corner.
Curtis
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Question: How long have you been using that RR spike to blunt the tip so square? ::)
Best regards!
Fred
Fred, that is my good friend Ole' Stubby! He donated his lower extremities as stock for a couple of rear sights. Here is a link that tells some about Stubby's demise: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=40237.msg413408#msg413408 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=40237.msg413408#msg413408)
Curtis
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Back at it for a few days at least. Put the finishing touches on the patchbox today. May have to do some tweeking of the latch spring, and of course it will get some engraving added in due time. This is the first time I have made this type of box and latching system so it will take some trial and error to get it all working perfect.
I had some type of mild spring stock that used to be part of a light fixture, and decided it might work for the friction springs for this box. The metal is springy, but with enough force applied it will bend and retain a shape. I may need to case harden the completed springs, we shall see how it performs. Here I am using a vice and iron pipe to begin forming the bottom spring, and cutting the bent spring loose:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mFy9pR/P1290730.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dX0N9R)
The inspiration for the design came from Wm. Buchele's book.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hVRvUR/P1290731.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j31UpR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eTQdim/P1290735.jpg) (https://ibb.co/do67b6)
I excavated the recess for the spring under the finial using chisels and an old time bit and brace:
(https://preview.ibb.co/bUi9pR/P1290756.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dPTaUR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cLQ0w6/P1290757.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bZ7DG6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gPLiG6/P1290761.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fj1C9R)
The spring material is tough enough that I ruined two hacksaw blades while cutting it.
(https://preview.ibb.co/iSZh9R/P1290762.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gXpFUR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dDRUpR/P1290763.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fm229R)
Bending the lid spring:
(https://preview.ibb.co/n7T9pR/P1290764.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mataUR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i1Ldim/P1290766.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ntoW3m)
(https://preview.ibb.co/deZ4Om/P1290767.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ioDaUR)
The lid spring is soldered to the lid - I used Swif95 solder paste:
(https://preview.ibb.co/kE4zpR/P1290768.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dmX8im)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i8Jg3m/P1290772.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jA1OG6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ceUzpR/P1290773.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j71qw6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fXVTim/P1290776.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i7qiG6)
Did some fitting of screws, cleanup filing and sanding, and this is what I have so far:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mPNYzR/P1300777.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cmfLeR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fiDZ66/P1300780.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cPLE66)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cRtqeR/P1300782.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eyTOzR)
Started the cleanup work on the rear sight:
(https://preview.ibb.co/insYzR/P1300783.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cF58Ym)
Set my hollow rib on the barrel and I see I have some modifications to make to the underrib, as I made the rifle too slim to use it as is. Hey, I like mine slim! ;D I will have to continue that process later.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hs5Wm6/P1300784.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h0oTYm)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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This rifle is intended to be a hunting gun, and I decided it was far enough along to determine the carry balance point. To determine the balance point I cut the hollow rib to length, taped it to the barrel and tested the heft - and discovered the balance point was pretty much on the entry thimble skirt. In my opinion that is unacceptable for a hunting gun. Changing the balance point would involve one of two things, either add weight to the butt (such as with lead under the buttplate) or cut some off the end of the barrel. The barrel was 36" long so I decided to go with the latter option, starting with removing two inches and checking balance again. Two inches did the trick.
(https://preview.ibb.co/nto63x/P2030806.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fghAVc)
I have shortened barrels before using just a hacksaw and a file, but decided there may be a better method of truing the muzzle than just a file. So I made a simple "muzzle mill" from a piece of round scrap that I found in a ditch a few years back. It was about a 1-1/16" dia. rod about 8 or 9 foot long. So I cut a short section and squared it up:
(https://preview.ibb.co/edPPqc/P2010785.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvmtix)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kh8TGH/P2010786.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dGLKOx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hKFsbH/P2010787.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cnSSAc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/e7jw3x/P2010788.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dhrLVc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iNXcAc/P2010790.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ibEqVc)
Center punched the stock:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mQzw3x/P2010791.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ksOOix)
Then drilled graduated holes till I got to 3/8". A washer laid on the stock makes for a well to retain cutting fluid, until the object is drilled through at least:
(https://preview.ibb.co/jce2bH/P2010795.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eN1FwH)
Then I filed teeth on one face. Almost done in this photo:
(https://preview.ibb.co/kZ7kVc/P2010797.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i7VTix)
Then drilled and tapped a hole in the side for a set screw:
(https://preview.ibb.co/m9gqwH/P2030799.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kjoEOx)
And case hardened the face of the tool:
(https://preview.ibb.co/cONQfc/P2030801.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bUNfDx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cdc2RH/P2030803.jpg) (https://ibb.co/huyWLc)
Then mounted it on a brass cleaning rod (I drilled a small detent for the set screw in the rod) The cleaning rod will allow me to use different size jags as pilots:
(https://preview.ibb.co/eZdHRH/P2030804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d9mhtx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fxFxRH/P2030805.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dQeP6H)
The crude beast cut quickly and did a nice job of squaring the muzzle.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gWYqfc/P2030807.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cXMyYx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/knDZ6H/P2030808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMYqfc)
A few strokes of draw-filing and the muzzle was ready to crown. I used a cone shaped stone, a ball stone and my thumb with emery cloth.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gBNQfc/P2030809.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jdzhRH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jhSDYx/P2030812.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dR6kfc)
I liked the looks of the outside edge treatment on the original muzzle and decided to replicate it. If I had a lathe I could probably turn the outside face in about 30 seconds. I did it by eyeball using a Sharpie and a file in about 5 minutes:
(https://preview.ibb.co/cjuPOx/P2030816.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eZfaVc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nNdJix/P2030817.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mgLnbH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kLRcbH/P2030818.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g6oqwH)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Wow. I learn something every time I open this post! Thanks for sharing!
Greg
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Glad to hear that, Greg! Makes it worthwhile continuing to post.
Moving on the the under rib... as the rib is hollow I had to cut pieces to solder in the ends of the rib.
(https://preview.ibb.co/d3C0wH/P2030819.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mdSpqc)
In order to properly align the thimbles I employed some brass cleaning rod. I smoked the rod with soot where the thimbles were positioned so no solder would stick to the rod. I cleaned and fluxed the rib, placed a small sheet of silver solder on the flux, then fluxed the bottom of the thimbles before positioning them on the solder, then clamped it all in place. I used an acetylene and air torch for the heat source.
(https://preview.ibb.co/k7d9Ox/P2040820.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nQWUOx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kB6Dix/P2040822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i0wqVc)
Next I cleaned the barrel and inside of the rib and painted on some solder paste inside the rib and on the barrel, then clamped it all in place. I drew with a sharpie and some soapstone on the barrel to help prevent the solder sticking where it was unwanted. I want to mention that the wires pictured were useless as the heat from the torch was too much for them. I didn't get another picture but I added a couple more c-clamps when I learned the wires wouldn't hack it.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mAyJ0c/P2040823.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g1Lntx)
Then I stared the cleanup process. I have used vinegar to pickle off flux glazing and scale before, but didn't want to submerge the barrel in a vat of vinegar. So I whetted some emery cloth with vinegar and started sanding at the scale. It worked 90 percent better than the emery by itself. I will remember that in the future for sure!
(https://preview.ibb.co/js2T0c/P2040828.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ebgz6H)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mMQRmH/P2040830.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fKmADx)
That's all I got for now. :)
Curtis
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Curtis,
Great job!! I appreciate your documenting your process. Learning a lot from your build techniques.. can't wait to see more and how it all finished up ;)
Respect Always
Metalshaper\Jonathan
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Great tutorial. I like the barrel facing tool a lot. It would take me half a day to make that.
Have not built a halfstock in so long I dis-remember whether it’s common to solder rib to barrel and thimbles to rib all at once. Also I am wondering how this was done in pre-torch days. Huge soldering iron?
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Curtis, You are an industrious guy, I love the way your going at this and ingenuity of some of the tools and processes. Excellent job.
Tim
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Curtis, Your muzzle mill , is a neat little tool , thanks for showing it. Nate
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Great posts, and great work! Love that muzzle mill you made.
Ed
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The muzzle mill is absolutely on my short list of tools to make. I have a good ol’ 13” Southbend lathe, but in the time it takes to center up a barrel in the 4-jaw, and dial everything in, you could be finished and on to something else with the little mill.
Greg
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Curtis, As everyone else has said. I hope you know how much this helps us beginners. Every time I open up ALR I'm looking to see if ya posted anything else. Can't wait to see it completed but really enjoying the process.
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Many thanks guys!! The muzzle mill took me probably a couple of hours to make, I didn't really watch the clock so that is a guesstimate. It would have probably taken an hour to true up the muzzle with a file and a square, and the muzzle facing tool took about a minute to mill and maybe three to smooth by draw filing. Also it can be used over and over again, and possibly for other jobs so it was certainly worth the time to make it.
I forgot to mention I used a squirt of tapping fluid on it when I milled the muzzle, any oil would work.
I just wish I could have figured out how to make one from a RR spike.... ::)
Curtis
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Like everyone else, Curtis, I really enjoy your posts...always so interesting and informative. Thanks for taking time to document and share your efforts. It IS appreciated!
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Nice work, Curtis - I do like that crown, along with the muzzle squaring cutter.
Nicer, smoother than filing and now that the tool is made, quick for future builds/barrels.
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Really nice work Curtis!
This is fun to watch.
Love that barrel facing tool.
Norm
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Thanks for your encouragement guys! It's good to know some of you are still looking in on this thread.
When I made the decision to use German silver for some of the hardware, I thought it might be a nice touch to do a silver band near the breech. I ended up with two.
I have not done any metal to metal inlay before, so this was to be another first for me. One of our members, Rolf, posted a tutorial on how he did it - http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9090.0 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9090.0) I pretty much used the same method with a few minor variations.
Stress warning FYI: Pucker factor on a scale of 1 to 10: :-\ 8.
Marked up the barrel and hacksawed some cuts (5 flats), then cleaned up with a flat graver and a file...
(https://preview.ibb.co/iN2CFc/P2060838.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f1QA1H)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cQn18x/P2060839.jpg) (https://ibb.co/exNZTx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/krmHgH/P2060840.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gzHOMH)
Then the sides of the channels were undercut with a flat graver. In order to avoid metal tear-out, stop a bit shy of the corners.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fvZngH/P2060842.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i1ktMH)
Raising some barbs with a graver:
(https://preview.ibb.co/keDoMH/P2060843.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e0hR8x)
I purchased some .999 fine silver, 18GA (.040") from Rio Grande, and cut strips to fit the channels. I marked the center of the barrel and the strip of silver to keep things even, then used a piece of .050 GS scrap as a flat punch to start tapping it in and around the barrel:
(https://preview.ibb.co/cOyG8x/P2060845.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyD51H)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eLLw8x/P2060846.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cXJSFc)
When the silver was in solid enough to stay on it's own, I switched to a steel punch that I ground the small and the large end slightly round and peened the silver for a good fit. I then switched to a flat punch to hammer it home. Be careful not to punch the silver below the steel, and not to ding up your barrel.
(https://preview.ibb.co/ein9Tx/P2060847.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gXXMac)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mXm3ox/P2060848.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cPwgac)
When it was all hammered solidly in place and the channels are filled edge to edge, I carefully filed (and draw filed) off the excess silver and any raised steel caused by the undercutting:
(https://preview.ibb.co/jzsUBH/P2060849.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hZ0udx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mWtrQc/P2060851.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kyHJ5c)
Not perfect, but not overly embarrassing either! :)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Nice touch! Now you know you have to put a silver nameplate on the top flat...😄
Greg
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Very nice crafts Curtis :)
Runar
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Very nice thread and build, Curtis! Some good info here for all.
To save the life of your hacksaw blades in future when cutting spring steel, Just put the steel in the vise good and tight, and take a flat ended punch, and belt the excess over with a hammer. If it doesn't break off, belt it back and it will break the excess off pretty clean. Only needs filing then. Saves a lot of hacksaw blades!
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That's coming along nicely, Curtis! The only problem I see is it will be too pretty to hunt with. ;)
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Curtis, You truly are an inspiration. Thanks for keeping us updated. I didn't see stubby in any of these pics ::)
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Many thanks, fellas!
To save the life of your hacksaw blades in future when cutting spring steel, Just put the steel in the vise good and tight, and take a flat ended punch, and belt the excess over with a hammer.
Good advise, Pukka. I have done that with files, should have tried it with the spring.
The only problem I see is it will be too pretty to hunt with. ;)
I'm thinking in order to insure he hunts with it I will just have to go with him, darn it! 8)
I didn't see stubby in any of these pics ::)
Patience is a virtue... he is still hanging around the shop.
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Nice touch! Now you know you have to put a silver nameplate on the top flat...😄
Greg
Now why would I push my luck and go an do something like that, an risk mucking up the rifle??
Just messing with you Greg! ;) It's like you were reading my mind or something....
Next installment - Inlaying a silver nameplate on the top flat of the barrel:
Pucker factor = 9.5
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Actually, I’m hoping to learn from watching how you do it...got a pistol I’m finishing up, and a couple rifle builds behind it. I might screw my courage to the sticking point... 🙄
Greg
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Hope this helps some, Greg. If I can do it, so can you!
Since I had some silver left, and I am a glutton for punishment, I decided to add a silver escutcheon or nameplate to the barrel. Eric von Aschwege has an excellent tutorial on his website for doing this: http://www.neahkahnieflintlocks.com/silver-barrel-escutcheon.html (http://www.neahkahnieflintlocks.com/silver-barrel-escutcheon.html)
I followed his methods pretty closely, with the exception of using a woodruff cutter in my drill press to remove the bulk of the metal. I bought a set of these form Grizzly about 10 years ago and have never used them, I figured it was about time to see if they worked. It did a fine job!
(https://preview.ibb.co/cRBpwH/P2070856.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kuif3x)
I then engraved a straight line across the ends and used a flat graver and a square graver to remove the remaining metal, square the edges and clean out the corners.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kfJYqc/P2060853.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nFdoOx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/h0pv3x/P2070863.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nkJYqc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mQUCix/P2070859.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ktudOx)
There is a lot more room to work with inletting a plate as opposed to a band, so instead of upsetting the metal on the edges I undercut the sides using a 60o graver. This gives the metal a space to flow into and trap itself as it is peened into place.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bHUdOx/P2070862.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mwBsix)
Then I raised some barbs with a square graver to help hold the metal in place and not stretch too much in one dimension:
(https://preview.ibb.co/juHyOx/P2070865.jpg) (https://ibb.co/edvUVc)
The silver was cut with snips, then filed till it was a snug fit to the opening, slightly raised in the middle by being bent in a slight arc. The silver was the gently tapped flat and in place.
(https://preview.ibb.co/g8cRAc/P2070866.jpg) (https://ibb.co/epj6Ac)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n6ev3x/P2070867.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hTsF3x)
Now it is time to get some metal moving, firmly but gentle. Who could persuade a bit of silver to move better than my old buddy Stubby! ;D ;D ;D So I polished up his face and put him to work.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hUtuwH/P2070868.jpg) (https://ibb.co/etqwAc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c6M3qc/P2070870.jpg) (https://ibb.co/khbsix)
I also employed a few other methods and punches. I had to use a smaller brass punch in one corner to push the silver that way but didn't get a photo.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cPLo6H/P2070871.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gOXeDx)
When I was certain all the voids were filled I filed of the excess silver. Done, whew!
(https://preview.ibb.co/jnNkmH/P2070879.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fZTfLc)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I saved some of the silver filings, I thought they might come in handy for some braising project in the future.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jKgQLc/P2070890.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ciSbRH)
Now back to the rear sight... most commercial site bases are too thick for my liking, so I generally thin them on the occasions that I don't make my own. I like to "float" the base on a file as it creates a nice, flat surface if done with care.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jb7nYx/P2070880.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b1szfc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kykwRH/P2070882.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ddw36H)
Before cutting the dovetail I like to have a visual gauge - in this example the depth of the dovetail is about the same as height of the teeth on my hacksaw blade.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dAjO6H/P2070884.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nJakLc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dV80mH/P2070885.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fv1aLc)
Also barley visible in the photo but the corner on the sight dovetail can be used to scribe a mark of the depth to be cut.
(https://preview.ibb.co/cvXbRH/P2070887.jpg) (https://ibb.co/i6uqmH)
There are plenty of tutorials on cutting dovetails so I won't go into that here, of course if there is a question about the process I can try to answer it. With this style of sight you have to be very precise with your dovetail, as you cannot raise the metal by swaging the dovetail since the sight rests on the barrel surface. Here is the sight in place:
(https://preview.ibb.co/fiuC0c/P2070888.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c1szfc)
I also used a commercial sight for the front. As you can see the base it quite thick and I will have to file it down. I prefer .030 to .035 for a sight base or a barrel lug, this base is almost .090
(https://preview.ibb.co/iiKn0c/P2070889.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fX8QmH)
That's all for now, more in a day or two. Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Curtis, Every time you post another part of this build. I see another tool I need ;)
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Nice photo documentary Curtis...enjoying this process a lot. And there is no such thing as a rifle too pretty to hunt with. that's like saying my wallet is too full of money, or that woman is too beautiful...you get the idea.
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Curtis, you make this look too easy! I just might have to try one of those nameplates.
Greg
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Curtis, Every time you post another part of this build. I see another tool I need ;)
JVavrek, as a diagnosed tool junky I can fully empathizeNice photo documentary Curtis...enjoying this process a lot. And there is no such thing as a rifle too pretty to hunt with. that's like saying my wallet is too full of money, or that woman is too beautiful...you get the idea.
with that statement.
Thanks Taylor! And I agree 100% with you, no rifle is too pretty to hunt with! Can't understand why some folks feel that way at all. ::)
Curtis, you make this look too easy! I just might have to try one of those nameplates.
Greg
Greg, like a lot of things the hardest part is getting up the courage to try it! You can always make a trial run on a scrap of barrel. Heck, if I dare say, you could even use the side of a railroad spike to practice on, it's pretty close to the right size for a barrel flat. ;D
Curtis
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Curtis, I think I have a couple of those “all purpose” tools down in the forge. Don’t tell C&O Railroad...
Greg
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Your secret is safe with me, Gary!
Not much to post today. Got the front sight installed and started on some decorative filing of the trigger guard.
(https://preview.ibb.co/ncGyvn/P2090901.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g5TYT7)
I have a couple of antique trigger guards that are similar in style to the one used for this rifle. I took some inspiration from the decorative filing on the old guards.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kavK1S/P2090892.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jKUOT7)
First I penciled on the some reference lines, then I cut them in shallowly with a jeweler's saw to help keep my filing on course. Not really necessary but it can help prevent the file from slipping off course.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bDoZkn/P2090893.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gUA3d7)
Then I used a safe edge 3 corner file to remove the brass I wanted gone.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hd2VrS/P2090895.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bNg1y7)
I'll post more when I have something to show.
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I've done the same thing with electrical tape, Curtis.
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This has sure been a great thread. Thank you, Curtis, for taking the time to photo and post all of this. I'm looking forward to the rest of this build.
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Curtis,
I like your idea. of using the jeweler's saw for those triangular decorations. I just made the same on a trigger guard the other day, but without the saw.
I did use the saw for some of the horizontal lines, which worked out like a champ.
thanks for adding to my bucket of techniques!
Norm
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Curtis
This is a great post keep up the great work
Across the river
Paul
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Thanks for all your thoughts and comments guys. I worked a bit on the rifle today, mostly cleaning up the buttplate, countersinking screws and case hardening the screws after filing them to contour. Didn't take any photos, to boring to post anyway! Hopefully tomorrow I will do some testing of stain combinations and have some results to post.
Curtis
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Been helping a family member out who is building a house and other stuff, and haven't had much time in the shop lately. I did do some testing of various stains and combinations, from varying concentration of aquifortis with and without tannic acid, to ferric chloride mixes, both of the above with and without LMF stains. I have some vinegaroon brewing, if it gets ready before I need to stain the rifle I will try some of that as well. Here are some of the results:
(https://preview.ibb.co/b5bPfn/P2120905.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gMysY7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c5nVLn/P2120906.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dNx86S)
It turns out that the curl fades considerably by the time it reaches the forestock, so I tried some fake striping using tannic acid or concentrated aquafortis, which are shown in the second pic. I did not like the results so won't be doing that! It was a fun experiment, however.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jWBqLn/P2120907.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jGkvmS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cLrCY7/P2120908.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ijweD7)
Finished the decorative filing on the TG.
(https://preview.ibb.co/jhB1RS/P2120909.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kVCVLn)
I filed up and polished the hammer, then cut some checkering on the thumb grip. I used a jeweler's saw to cut in the lines and then a small triangular file the chase out the grooves. The saw groves helped to prevent slippage of the file on the polished, concave surface and helped with keeping the lines straight.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fBKmbS/P2160911.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cErci7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nGKDO7/P2160913.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mzAbbS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gV1zwS/P2160915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cjWMAn)
That all I got for now, will post more when I can.
Curtis
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Curtis,
I admire your discipline to photograph and share your projects. I have started out several times with great intentions to document some of my work in anticipation of sharing and helping others and then forget to or get too involved and miss photographing a section of work. There is so much to learn and so much to share in our work. I always pick up at the least a tidbit of information from our members writings. Keep up the good work and hopefully the rest of us, me included, can provide more documentation of how we do things.
David
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That eagle looks like a Phillie eagle ;)
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Curtis;
Thank you for a thread that doesn’t start out with buy a lathe, milling machine, and a wire welder. The old timers could stock up a rifle in a pretty short time, using the methods you demonstrate in this thread.
They also repaired the shortcomings of the chosen stock wood, or even their building ability, and produce fine working firearms. Often it took a hundred years of use, and misuse, for those repairs to become apparent.
Hungry Horse
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Thanks for all your comments guys! I enjoy doing things with my hand tools, akin to the old fashion way. It seems to be more in tunewith my "inner artist"
Curtis,
I admire your discipline to photograph and share your projects. I have started out several times with great intentions to document some of my work in anticipation of sharing and helping others and then forget to or get too involved and miss photographing a section of work. There is so much to learn and so much to share in our work. I always pick up at the least a tidbit of information from our members writings. Keep up the good work and hopefully the rest of us, me included, can provide more documentation of how we do things.
David
David, I would love to see more of the "inner workings" of what come out of your shop and others! I confess that I am a bit of a shutterbug and that helps when it comes to remembering to photograph my progress... I still get wrapped up in what I'm doing from time to time and forget to snap some good photo material. I think the visual aides really help folks see how something was done over just a verbal description
Funny story related to my photographer past - I digress from the topic of discussion so please forgive me. When I was in high school I was the photographer for the town newspaper, and also the school yearbook, and did some freelance work on my own. (I saved up and purchased all the equipment for my home darkroom). During football season I carried 3 cameras to the games. I took action photos for the newspaper and yearbook with their respective equipment, and special photos of the cheerleaders and football players with my own. So in one evening I drew a paycheck, got credit for a class, then sold cheerleader photos to the cheerleaders and the football guys, and photos of the football heroes to the cheerleaders! 8) 8) 8)
Curtis.
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I drilled and tapped the drum and installed the nipple today, among other things. After installing the drum, I visually align the nipple with the hammer nose, centered on the drum, then mark the position. Next scribe the center-line of the hammer and punch a mark.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eEF8Cc/P2190927.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kdLasc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c5cMXc/P2190930.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hag4kx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/coiTCc/P2190931.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hCovsc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hsVVQx/P2190933.jpg) (https://ibb.co/grnoCc)
I then drill a pilot hole, mindful of keeping the hole centered on the drum. When drilling by hand I like to sneak up on the final drill size, using several bits in succession. Then I tapped the drum for the nipple, and filed a flat spot for the nipple to seat on. I like to do it after the hole is tapped, some may prefer to make a flat spot before drilling to help prevent drill wander.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dqPeJH/P2190937.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gZAasc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jvHAQx/P2190938.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6L8Cc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jWw4kx/P2190939.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mKxYdH)
Then install the nipple and pray it all lines up. I used a flash cup for this one, to help protect the silver bands from overflash.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dFAEkx/P2190941.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mih5sc)
I like to use captured wedges, it prevents them from getting misplaced and stolen by gremlins. I drilled a series of holes, cut them through with a jewelwer's saw, then filed the slot smooth. I will pin it in the stock later.
(https://preview.ibb.co/iqQ5Qx/P2190942.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cZ4bXc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jUB1yH/P2190943.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cH55Qx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nEJQQx/P2190946.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ibXkQx)
I also cut the cheek inlay, made it about 20% larger than the wedge escutcheons. I was originally thinking about using an oval inlay but thought the elongated shape of the eagle in flight flowed better with the angular, skinny cheek.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mHbvQx/P2180917.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ksiLsc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/csn25x/P2180918.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hGrUkx)
The trusty pistol stock was used to give the inlay the necessary concave shape.
(https://preview.ibb.co/czeX5x/P2180919.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hOjzkx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/i7is5x/P2180921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fXPbXc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/huB1yH/P2180925.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hmT3Cc)
Next step is to inlay the piece:
(https://preview.ibb.co/dGDmXc/P2190947.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eYNPJH)
I will have it in for the next posting.
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I have been working on other projects and have been remiss in my posting. As for this rifle I mostly have been doing a lot of scraping and polishing, getting thing ready for final finishes and engraving.
The cheek inlay is in, I made a wooden punch from a ramrod scrap to tap the inlay in place. The inlay is rather tight in the wood, the wooden punch helps prevent putting dings in the inlay and stock.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fAHZSc/P2210948.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hit8nc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fCWNDH/P2210949.jpg) (https://ibb.co/efwptH)
Made a copper rivet from a piece of #12 electrical wire, swedged the head on one side. Used a punch to peen the other end into the countersink in the muzzle cap, then filed it flush.
(https://preview.ibb.co/i2fSfx/P2210951.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iH6NDH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dHx7fx/P2210954.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFMptH)
I drew directly on the forestock escutcheons with a mechanical pencil, then sprayed some hairspray into a cap and used a small artist's brush to paint over the pencil marks. This works as a fixative and helps prevent smudging of the pencil lines. If the inlay was not in the stock I would have just sprayed it on.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mgtoLx/P2220955.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kA1xDH)
My reference material tends to pile up as I am working in things... anybody else have problems with piles growing?
(https://preview.ibb.co/bHEHDH/P2250960.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hgKjtH)
Got started on engraving the patchbox. I used hot glue to fix the lid and finial to a block of wood with the top filed in an arch, and used a light coat of white spray paint on box as a base to draw on. The side panels and inlays will be engraved on the gun.
If there is anyone out there that has difficulties hitting the small end of a graver handle, I have the solution - see the big head graver handle in the photo. 8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c2wm7c/P2250963.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bGdzSc)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Boy, and yet another use for the ever-present railroad spike...I never would’ve thought...
Greg
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Curtis, Thanks for the hair spray tip. That`s what I like about this site. Seeing beautiful guns and picking up tips and tricks from the best builders around. Thanks nate
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Curtis,
I'm really enjoying reading along on this build of yours. I'm learning a ton and think your craftsmanship is great! You also explain things well. Bravo!
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Curtis, Once again i want to say thank you for sharing this build with us. I hope you truly know how much you are helping us new guys. Ya couldn't resist getting the spike in there :)
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Who's this spike fella you guys are talking about?? ??? Seriously, I appreciate your comments gents. Nate, hope you get some use from the hairspray tip. It sounds a bit lame at first to hear a gun builder talk about hairspray, but if you have ever just drew the perfect drawing only to accidentally smudge it off and go through two pencil erasures before you get it right again, you can learn to appreciate hairspray. Don't ask me how I know that. ;D
Curtis
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I made myself a push graver today, using an old doorknob I found in the yard of a fallen in house while deer hunting on a friend's land, and a graver from an antique mall. Got a whole jar full of them for a few bucks. When I found the knob I immediately thought of using it for a push graver, alas it took me a couple of years to get around to making it. The steel shaft was rusted in place and I couldn't get it out, so I just cut it off with a hacksaw and drilled it with an 1/8" bit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mpvA2c/P2260965.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gwhZTH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mikooH/P2260967.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nFLM8H)
I got the patchbox lid and finial engraved and re-installed, and did some simple engraving in the side panels as well. I feel the eagle head needs some help yet, but will probably look at it for a couple of days while working on other things before I decide what it to do about it. I must confess the engraving I have chosen to do for this rifle is beyond my current skill level, but I decided to push myself beyond the comfort zone and hope for the best.
While I had the finial off I tweaked the lid spring. I tilted the spring up in the back by angling the inlet beneath the spring mounting screw. Works perfectly now.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dzeyoH/P2260970.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mTuW8H)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eMYcFx/P2260971.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dxf2hc)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Curtis, I think the eagle looks pretty wicked as he is...if I tried something like that it’d look like a three year old scratched it with a rock...
Greg
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Thanks Greg, I was sorta aiming for wicked! I had the opportunity to get a bit more engraving done. The escutcheons have some significant curve to them and made the process somewhat tedious and difficult for me. Here is what I ended up with:
(https://preview.ibb.co/bLpWAx/P2270976.jpg) (https://ibb.co/caFSiH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eXxJqx/P2270978.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nsmBAx)
Short post this time around!
Curtis
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I see no fault with your engraving of the escutcheons. I agree it looks tedious!
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Thanks SingleMalt, all I can say it they look okay at arms length, even better from across the room, and they keep looking better and better the farther away you get!
Curtis
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Curtis , it looks like your skill level is higher than you estimated ! Those eagles are AWESOME! They look like they mean business! Nice Work!! Nate
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Nate, you haven't quite convinced me to re-evaluate my skill levels but your flattery is most appreciated. ;D I think my son will be surprised about the theme and hopefully he will be of the same opinion that the eagles mean business! Perhaps their astute vision will assist him in making many great shots.
Curtis
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I have been finishing up some more of the engraving, getting ready to brown the barrel and stain the stock. I have been watching the vinagaroon I am brewing go through some interesting changes, the past couple of days it had developed a head about an inch thick. I tried a bit on a scrap of maple and after washing over the vinegaroon with some hydrogen peroxide it made for a nice color - I think the vinegaroon will be usable when I am ready for it.
I did a bit of engraving on some of the screw heads. I use an old drill chuck to hold the smaller screws, an idea stolen from John Schippers excellent book.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eReBXn/P3020980.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dt4dCn)
Finished engraving the sideplate, cheek inlay, toeplate and entry pipe. Still have some work to do on the patchbox so no new pics of that yet.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fEyoCn/P3020982.jpg) (https://ibb.co/egNFsn)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jTpH57/P3020984.jpg) (https://ibb.co/csZTCn)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c2veJS/P3020987.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dBMKJS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c6m8Cn/P3020989.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kg1x57)
Many thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I mentioned in a earlier post that I was brewing some vinegaroon - I believe it is still "working" some but I have been testing stain samples every couple of days and decided it was at a point it is usable. In making it I used cider vinegar and some rusty old barbed wire taken down on part of my property.
Having read some a post by Long John concerning vinegaroon on this site I was intrigued by the mention of washing over it with hydrogen peroxide. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=47945.msg474361#msg474361 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=47945.msg474361#msg474361) So I tried it on some test samples with good result. I though I would post a couple of photos while I was performing the procedure on the actual gunstock. The changes are dramatic and can be seen instantly. I may yet add another coat of stain before I start to put finish on, I will have to see how it looks in the morning.
(https://preview.ibb.co/htuQdS/P3040995.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fLKrJS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/izGtXn/P3040996.jpg) (https://ibb.co/daBSsn)
The photos were taken after having applied one coat of v. stain, washing it with peroxide, letting it dry and applying another coat of v. stain, and starting to apply second peroxide wash.
Curtis
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FYI - I fixed the link in my previous posting, it now works.
Lock plate and hammer:
(https://preview.ibb.co/gkiJ07/P3030990.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ioBhSn)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hPFWL7/P3030992.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c0B5f7)
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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Nice work Curtis, that is looking really good!
I like the engraving a lot. Looks like you have been practicing!
I've been thinking about case hardening lock plates etc, care to share what process you used?
Norm
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Thanks Norm! Sadly, I haven't really been practicing my engraving much, even though it would likely help considerably. I did cut a test eagle on a flat piece of german silver just to see if I could do it. I do typically make a test cut or two with a freshly sharpened graver just to see if it will behave as expected. I can't help but notice that my engraving improves somewhat from the start to the finish of a project, likely mainly from the familiarity gained using the tools.
The finish process used on the lock plate and hammer is something I learned from one of our members here, TOF. After seeing how nice it looked on several guns he built I asked him how it was done. It is not a true case hardening but does seem to impart some carbon into the steel.
The parts were hung on a wire and heated with a torch to cherry red, then dunked several times into a bucket of water with about 3/8" of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) floating on the top. I dipped the plate about four times, with about half second intervals between dips before leaving it in the water to cool. The quench water was about 70o give or take. I also used the same process on the trigger plate and the rear sight.
Here is a quote from TOF that explains the theory better than I could by paraphrasing him, I hope he won't mind me posting it here:
"My theory is that most parts today are cast from metal that can be thru-hardened, so heating them and quenching will harden the part if plunged directly into water. However, if oil is floating on the water, it is picked up with each plunge and forms an insulating barrier as it enters the water. The carbon in the oil adds carbon to the part and also slows the rapidity of the quench. Instead of getting a part that is glass hard, you get one that is differentially hardened and requires no tempering. The added benefit is that you can manipulate the case colors on the part. A quench done at 50 degrees using 30w oil will give deep blue colors. As the quench temp is raised and the oil is thinned, you start to get lighter blues and grays on the metal. ATF contains components that increase its temperature stability, so it doesn't cling like motor oil and you get more of a solid color. It is also possible to get a French gray color under certain circumstances that require the color to be steel wooled off, leaving just a case hardened part."
I experimented with a few different oils and quench temperatures and got the colors I liked the best from the ATF and 70o quench. I would like to caution that small parts like triggers can come out glass hard, depending on the alloy.
Use a heavy wire or you might burn it in two with your torch, causing gravity to take total control over your red hot part. Yup, I did that once. ;)
Curtis
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Curtis,
Thanks for explaining that. I am working to expand my metal working knowledge and that adds to my list of techniques.
I don't understand why that process would result in no need for tempering, but that is an off-topic subject for discussion elsewhere.
Norm.
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Beautiful work
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Thanks guys! Norm, PM sent.
Curtis
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Hopefully I will wrap this thing up soon! I put a traditional rust brown on the barrel, using a solution of approximately 20% ferric chloride, 50% water, 25% denatured alcohol, and 5% cider vinegar. I didn't measure anything exact, just eyeballed the amounts in a jar.
I experimented with using a hot brown using chlorine bleach - it seems to give the smoothest, smallest grain rusting of most any browning methods I have tried, when carded between applications. I was worried about the silver inlays so I tried it first on a test test sample using the barrel section I cut off. The heating caused some minor movement of the silver, and allowed boiling bleach to get under the silver, etc so I abandoned the test after about 3 applications. Here is what the sample looked like, I'm thinking two or three more applications and it would have been ready.
(https://preview.ibb.co/bv6pXn/P3091006.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gBSJQ7)
I had previously used the hot bleaching method when restoring a set of shotgun barrels, pictured below.
(https://preview.ibb.co/dA5uyS/PA030266.jpg) (https://ibb.co/if9bCn)
Here is what I ended up with using the tradition brown in my sweat box. It took about 3-4 days of rusting and carding, followed by washing with Dawn and water, then a good waxing.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kWygdS/P3090998.jpg) (https://ibb.co/do0uyS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hXsJQ7/P3091000.jpg) (https://ibb.co/e3XJQ7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/caT3sn/P3101008.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bL27JS)
Still working on applying the stock finish, I probably have another few days to go on that yet.
Curtis
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My apologies - it has been a long time between posts, however it has taken a great deal of time to get the finish on this rifle to near my liking - I think I am almost there. I applied 5 or 6 coats of LMF sealer, and about 7 or 8 thin hand rubbed coats of tung oil. Most of the applications had a few drops of LMF maple stain mixed in. I have been working on other projects while waiting for oil to dry between applications.
I am still not particularly thrilled with the results but sometimes you just have to call it! After applying the finish the lock, trigger plate, barrel and trigger guard would no longer fit and I spent an entire day scraping, sanding, cutting and fitting to get the components back in place. The patchbox lid would no longer close, was off center and needed extensive re-fitting. I have never had such a degree of wood swelling after applying finish, the wood must have really soaked up the stuff. Even the buttplate did some moving and it was securely screwed in place the whole time finish was being applied.
After getting the barrel and components back together, I captured the barrel key using a brass nail. I drilled a slightly undersized hole, cut the nail to length, drove it home with a punch and then filed it flush. I normally secure a barrel key after the barrel has the finish applied and the stock as well, as I normally have to perform some last minute fitting of the key when these steps are done - which I find is easier to do while the key is still removable. Track sells a small screw for capturing a barrel key but I have never tried using one.
(https://preview.ibb.co/nHcOzn/P3231015.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mj2qen)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hGT7QS/P3231016.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iRvnQS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/j1ikC7/P3231017.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ibqAen)
I took a couple horrible of pics of the stock hanging in the shop to give an idea of how it looks... I will take a full set of completed photos outdoors when the weather allows. We are expected to have lots of rain the next couple of days here in mid Missouri. It is likely I will put the finished photos in a separate post since there are so many pages in this thread.
(https://image.ibb.co/ijNCs7/P3241024.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nERu5S)
(https://image.ibb.co/gorSQS/P3241026.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kJvAen)
***Photos of the completed gun can be found here: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48647.0 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=48647.0)***
Thanks for looking,
Curtis
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I went through the post and fixed the photos so they would show up again! Makes more sense with pics! ;)
Curtis
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Thanks Curtis, This was one of my favorite builds. I was able to see your pics by clicking in the empty square boxes but that was a pain.
:) much better now.