AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Scota4570 on January 23, 2018, 05:08:28 AM
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I will never have opportunity to shoot a bear. I did read Ned Roberts book over and over when I was growing up. I was really surprised to come across this, real bear oil?
https://www.pharmapacks.com/products.php?product=EKO-Oil-Bear-4-oz
Anyone know if it is real? I'm tempted to buy some and see how it does. Old Ned thought a lot of it, second only to sperm oil.
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Best I found with a quick search is no... doesn't even contain bear oil from what I've read.
If you want bear oil or grease, make a WTB post...Id bet someone might have some for sale...
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Careful boys, some states consider it a crime to sell any part of a game animal. That goes double for bears, since they are often poached for their gallbladder.
Hungry Horse
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Try this. I've used it and it works good. I asked him what ratio of tallow to beeswax and he said it's 90% bear tallow. Probably why the price is high.
http://www.octobercountry.com/bumblin-bear-grease-4-oz/
Between this and Mink Oil from TOW I like the Mink Oil better. I have plenty of bear fat from the bears I hunt, but I give it all to my Lakota friend.
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It is illegal to sell game animal parts here . I render my own bear grease and oil, which I can gift to others, but not sell. It is also illegal to possess a bear gall bladder, even if you shot the bear legally.
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It is illegal to sell game animal parts here . I render my own bear grease and oil, which I can gift to others, but not sell. It is also illegal to possess a bear gall bladder, even if you shot the bear legally.
Where does it say we can't sell animal parts on here? No beaver hides, no antlers, no horns??
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It is illegal to sell game animal parts here . I render my own bear grease and oil, which I can gift to others, but not sell. It is also illegal to possess a bear gall bladder, even if you shot the bear legally.
Where does it say we can't sell animal parts on here? No beaver hides, no antlers, no horns??
It's federal law, I'm pretty sure. There's an exception for horns and hides. Each state has different rules.
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It is illegal to sell game animal parts here . I render my own bear grease and oil, which I can gift to others, but not sell. It is also illegal to possess a bear gall bladder, even if you shot the bear legally.
I don't see anybody selling animal parts in this thread?
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I read the "here" as the state he lives in. Not on this forum. My 2 cents. Take it for what it is worth.
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I read the "here" as the state he lives in. Not on this forum. My 2 cents. Take it for what it is worth.
Yes, but why even bring it up? Nobody was doing it.
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Stick to topic, please. Bear oil, where to get it, good substitutes.
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It is illegal to sell game animal parts here . I render my own bear grease and oil, which I can gift to others, but not sell. It is also illegal to possess a bear gall bladder, even if you shot the bear legally.
Bob is from Ontario, CANADA. In Ontario it appears to be illegal to sell animal parts.
Here in BC, we can sell the oil, hides, skulls, antlers, bones, you name it, EXCEPT it is illegal to sell Bear Gal Bladders. Possession? I doubt there is a problem with mere possession here, but
I would not push it. Why keep it? It's garbage for normal people.
No bears in your area? - fine - buy Track's Mink Oil. I find it works exceptionally well for patch lube. Neetsfoot OIL also works as a patch lube for hunting. I think this has been covered before. ???
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I use to know a taxidermist who on occasion got a bear in his shop to mount, prepare the hide, etc. He had no trouble in saving me some of the fat which I rendered myself. Maybe you could check with a few in your area and procure some.
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How does bear grease compare to deer tallow as a patch lube? Used the letter for years, but patches get stiff at 20 and more below. Thaw them in mouth and they work,
Nice old bear, Justin!
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I like bear grease much better. It stays softer in cold weather. It has a consistency like bacon grease rather than hard tallow.
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If the fat is rendered in a double boiler, not in a pan over direct heat, you will get more oil from the process & it will separate out of the 'grease', to be poured off later. This oil will be clear, like water, not cloudy or mushy with shortening.
It's very nice stuff, but I do not see it as being superior, more likely equal to Track's Mink Oil as a patch lube.
Marmot oil is also good & a good water-proofer for leather boots.
The fat from around the organs is of higher oil content than the heavy fat outside the cavity, on all animals.
You can take a lump of marmot innard's fat and just rub it on your boots. Done. Then, you will need to wash your hands, quite likely twice with dish washing fluid, to get the oil off them.
It's quite incredible.
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If the fat is rendered in a double boiler, not in a pan over direct heat, you will get more oil from the process & it will separate out of the 'grease', to be poured off later. This oil will be clear, like water, not cloudy or mushy with shortening.
It's very nice stuff, but I do not see it as being superior, more likely equal to Track's Mink Oil as a patch lube.
Marmot oil is also good & a good water-proofer for leather boots.
The fat from around the organs is of higher oil content than the heavy fat outside the cavity, on all animals.
You can take a lump of marmot innard's fat and just rub it on your boots. Done. Then, you will need to wash your hands, quite likely twice with dish washing fluid, to get the oil off them.
It's quite incredible.
Yes, and if you try to wash up with cold water it won't work as good as hot water. Which is one of the reasons to use hot water to clean a bore. At least for some of us. :)
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I got 12 quarts of lard from a bear I killed fall before last and that was only 2/3 of the fat on her, but rendered it in a Frydaddy and only got lard, no oil. I found it worked better as patch lube in some of my rilfes, worse in others. On one it seemed to make the patches slip and groups were all over the place, much worse than anything else I tried in that gun. Other guns it grouped better. Loaded easier in all and all seemed easier to clean afterwards though. Above 70 degrees it startes turning to liquid and is slick, nasty stuff to use. Overall I concluded it was much better for baking biscuits and pie crusts, as well as a base for soap. But I'll try again next bear to produce oil instead of lard.
As an aside, it is great for a warm summer shoot to grab a dollap in your palm and shake your buddy's hand mid-match - he'll never be able to get any grip on his ramrod again that day. ;D
Here in MD you can't sell anything off a bear, which means the buyer would probably be in as much trouble as the sellar. I don't think I'd even risk an order for the stuff to buy it here.
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I have a deal with my Lakota friend. When I kill a bear he comes and takes all the fat off it. I hate the stuff and don't want anything to do with it.
I think Mink Oil makes a better patch lube and it's the only use I might have for bear fat and I don't even need that.
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Yes, and if you try to wash up with cold water it won't work as good as hot water. Which is one of the reasons to use hot water to clean a bore. At least for some of us. :)
You clean how you clean, I'll clean how we clean. As long as you get your gun clean, that's what matters.
Cold water cleans out the tiny amount of fouling left in our bores just fine - as in almost instantly - like Taylor's and Len's and Ron's and Neils, and Reagan's, my wife's barrel and Justin's, and Norm's. I could go on but I won't. Supposing that using an oil or grease for lube then cold water to clean wonh't work, is suggesting there is an oily residue or buildup left in the bore after shooting - that is incorrect. There is none. If you want to use hot water and continue to make up excuses for doing so - carry on. I really care not at this point. However, is someone wants to know what I use for shooting components, or lubes for various shooting and how I clean my guns, I will tell them.
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Daryl..........Ok, fine. I thought that's what we did? We keep hammering home our point. I won't mention hot water if you won't mention cold water anymore.
Although I do find it hard to believe that all the patch lube we coat out bores with just disappears. Maybe all that WD-40 you use cleans it out?
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Osprey, after I'm done rendering the fat I let the jars sit on the counter for two-three days and the oil always floats to the top of the jar. Just curious if you do it the same way.
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Tried that Smylee, no oil here for me. :(
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It seems to depend on the level of heat used during rendering whether you get (mostly) grease or oil. Low and slow tends to yield grease and it may take some time for the oil to separate (if ever).
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Yes, and if you try to wash up with cold water it won't work as good as hot water. Which is one of the reasons to use hot water to clean a bore. At least for some of us. :)
Daryl Are you saying that all of the lube is shot out each shot.
You clean how you clean, I'll clean how we clean. As long as you get your gun clean, that's what matters.
Cold water cleans out the tiny amount of fouling left in our bores just fine - as in almost instantly - like Taylor's and Len's and Ron's and Neils, and Reagan's, my wife's barrel and Justin's, and Norm's. I could go on but I won't. Supposing that using an oil or grease for lube then cold water to clean wonh't work, is suggesting there is an oily residue or buildup left in the bore after shooting - that is incorrect. There is none. If you want to use hot water and continue to make up excuses for doing so - carry on. I really care not at this point. However, is someone wants to know what I use for shooting components, or lubes for various shooting and how I clean my guns, I will tell them.
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No Justin you cannot sell a beaver hide- unless you have a trapper's lisc and are dealing with a lisc. buyer and pay the Queen her cut.
I'd be pretty wary of selling/trading for bear oil. If you create the perception that you are profiting from a dead bear in B.C there is an even chance it will become an issue. Besides that l'ill bear never gave you a surplus.
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little joe - what I am saying, is our barrels clean perfectly with ordinary cold or cool tap water. Does that mean all the oil is shot out? I don't know, does it? Does it mean that with the fire
and pressure generated when shooting, that the oil has been changed to something that cleans well with just water? I do not know, but I know that our guns clean with just plain cold water.
I know that the fouling is "moist" & that the next load goes in a down easily, with zero wiping - every time. If you wait for 5minutes before loading again, the bore will be dry and that previous
shot's fouling will be dry and crusty when shoving down the next one - which is why we load immediately after firing the gun - we only prime on the firing line, though.
There is no oily residue in the bore - none, which is likely why it cleans so easily with plain water, just as Holland and Holland of England instructed. They said to NEVER use hot water due to the
flash rusting that occurs. That, I was well aware of myself- in my TC rifle and every one of the Bauska barrels I used. They all flash rusted when hot water was used for cleaning. After reading
that letter from that world renowned gun maker and following their instructions, I never had another barrel flash-rust, nor did I ever rust a gun's bore.
I'd think a gun maker who builds rifles & shotguns costing way over - well - POA (Price On Request) - & has been in business for almost 200 years making those fines rifles and shotguns, might know what they were
talking about. The last rifle they made for Prince Charles, was something close to $250,000.00. They do make guns for the 'peasants' like us, that only cost $20,000.00 to $60,000.00- pre-owned,
of course.
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Do you think the materials used on a 1/4 million dollar gun might be different than my $500 gun?
I'd prefer to take advice from the maker of the $500 gun.
Here's the problem we're having Daryl. I'm not trying to tell you your method doesn't work, but you're trying to tell me my method doesn't work. Yet, we both have clean guns with no rust.
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Daryl I do not agree with you but being broad minded I will use cold water the next time I shoot, and let you know the results.
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Do you think the materials used on a 1/4 million dollar gun might be different than my $500 gun?
I'd prefer to take advice from the maker of the $500 gun.
Here's the problem we're having Daryl. I'm not trying to tell you your method doesn't work, but you're trying to tell me my method doesn't work. Yet, we both have clean guns with no rust.
Then, since you have all the answers, tell me why so many people here get flash rusting with hot water and have now switched to cold water & no longer get rusting, but perfectly clean guns.
I am not telling YOU not to use hot water, however I am telling new people they should use cold. IF per chance you do get flash rusting, it's effects are accumulative.
I am not alone, and likely, neither are you, obviously, some others have read they should use hot water, or some other chemical concoctions that are not needed.
I have also said repeatedly right here at ALR about cleaning with hot water, that not ALL barrel steels react the same & that it is possible some barrels might not show this rusting.
I guess you missed that.
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Daryl I do not agree with you but being broad minded I will use cold water the next time I shoot, and let you know the results.
Your test is going to show what? What lube do you use? I noted no trouble cleaning after using Neetsfoot Oil, bear oil, marmot oil, Track's Mink Oil, WWWF + Neetsfoot oil - wonder if
I missed anything?
I also have read - here and elsewhere, (not used myself) that Wonderlube, Bore Butter or similar 'products' will actually build up in the bore and that it needs some form of high powered
petroleum solvents like break or carburetor cleaner to remove it.
I would not expect water, hot it nor cold will remove that stuff.
Everyone up here uses cold or cool tap water & everyone here is happy with it, as well as many people right here at ALR.
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No Justin you cannot sell a beaver hide- unless you have a trapper's lisc and are dealing with a lisc. buyer and pay the Queen her cut.
I'd be pretty wary of selling/trading for bear oil. If you create the perception that you are profiting from a dead bear in B.C there is an even chance it will become an issue. Besides that l'ill bear never gave you a surplus.
Well, I guess I'll keep my bear oil to myself. Work good in oil lamps and for cooking as well as patch lube
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It's already been stated that the rules vary alot from one local to another but I don't know if it would be taboo to gift it to some one in Canada or not. I just did that in the states and don't want any compensation for the oil but stated that the recipient could donate a small amount to the ALR fund instead.
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Since the question came up, let me first say that I live in Ontario, Canada. If you look up the rules per the Ministry of Natural Resources { MNR ] it clearly states that it is illegal to profit from the sale of game animal parts. You are allowed to sell natural "sheds" re antlers etc , but not if attached to a scull . So... no mounts allowed for sale. No meat. Tanned leather is another thing, but you require a license and must pay the gov't stamp tax [ fur bearing animals] It is perfectly fine to gift meat, or bear grease/oil etc . Just don't try to sell it or the MNR might pay you a call.
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Scota4570 did any of these post answer your question ? I have no answer cause I don't use Bear Oil. Does the MFG. have an M.S.D.S. sheet or is there one on line?
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Scota4570 did any of these post answer your question ? I have no answer cause I don't use Bear Oil. Does the MFG. have an M.S.D.S. sheet or is there one on line?
I doubt for that price it's bear oil. I gave him a better option.