AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: varsity07840 on February 09, 2018, 08:40:09 PM
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Can someone describe using the stabbing method, proper chisels, etc when inletting a piece with a radius end such as a banana patchbox?
Thanks in advance.
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Trace the outline of the box, then use a chisel with a sweep that matches the curve of the line. Just tap on it with a mallet.
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Trace the outline of the box, then use a chisel with a sweep that matches the curve of the line. Just tap on it with a mallet.
And if you don’t have a chisel that matches, make one. None of these stabbing tools need to be wider than 1/4”. In fact, the wider they are the less likely they will work, because few inlets are of the same continuous radius. I made a few of various radius and about 4 of them plus a straight take care of almost everything.
And I confess I sometimes use my tools when designing inlays. So much easier when the pattern is made to fit the tools. [\size]
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Everything you need to know except the pictures is in this link. http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=28886.0;nowap
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I think Mike Brooks covers that in his tutorial. Not sure how the pictures fared in the PB fiasco.
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I shoulda checked first. It's in PDF and therefore intact.
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http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29664.0 (http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=29664.0)
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I think Mike Brooks covers that in his tutorial. Not sure how the pictures fared in the PB fiasco.
No Photo Bucket problems with Mike's tutorial I put it all on the ALR site and the reside here and not on PB.
Dennis
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Hey Dennis -- glad to see you back in action after your surgery. Heal fast.
Dave
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Thanks Dave, more slow motion than action :'(
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Are the gouges incannel out outcannel?
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These are what I use. I do have another of smaller radius not shown.
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpreview.ibb.co%2FjQX8RH%2F2_CCFC64_F_5153_4_F48_8050_7_EF2_EED4_E42_A.jpg&hash=fcad11e4f065f1f5e1aa27f82f1daf91d3504748) (http://ibb.co/my8hmH)
(https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpreview.ibb.co%2Fm0Sa6H%2FB65_D461_F_E682_45_CF_AE9_F_D48_DA2_FAFD52.jpg&hash=7a2bd9cdb42a9abb2297399ffeca7e613a4ba468) (http://ibb.co/kaZzYx)
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I use a 3/8" skew chisel for all carving and inletting. Work with the bevel out, pushing wood away, rather than removing it. I start inside the lines drawn, and push the wood over to the line.
After the patchbox or other inlay is in, wet the wood, and it swells back to the metal. I use the same method for wire inlay. Works well for me.
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Waksupi,
What kind of 3/8 skew chisel do you use? Is it a #1 straight or possibly a shallow curved gouge? I have found the smaller chisels and shallower gouges are much more workable that the larger ones so many recommend. A good example are those made by Rich And shown above. I think he said he uses those on most of his work. Rich, please correct me if I am wrong. A few years ago, I saw Wallace Gusler's chisels and as I remember, there were only about 5 or 6 gouges/chisels and some of them were bull nosed for rolling along an element line. Just some more ideas to try. Good luck.
elkhorne
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Waksupi,
What kind of 3/8 skew chisel do you use? Is it a #1 straight or possibly a shallow curved gouge? I have found the smaller chisels and shallower gouges are much more workable that the larger ones so many recommend. A good example are those made by Rich And shown above. I think he said he uses those on most of his work. Rich, please correct me if I am wrong. A few years ago, I saw Wallace Gusler's chisels and as I remember, there were only about 5 or 6 gouges/chisels and some of them were bull nosed for rolling along an element line. Just some more ideas to try. Good luck.
elkhorne
The one I use is straight. No number reference, as it is one I made. I agree smaller ones are much better to work with.