AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Duane Harshaw on February 12, 2018, 08:51:17 AM
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Just wondering if Plumb Brown Barrel finish is any good or should I pass.thx.D
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I buy it in quart bottles. I like it. IF you live in a low humidity area the slow rust process requires a sweat box or other humidity enhancement. That can be tricky because it is easy to get condensation and ruin the job. So, I use BC Plumb brown. IF you degrease properly, don't over polish, and don't slop it on all runny, it works very well.
Like any other finishing process you have to do it right. First use good ventilation, a big fan moving air to the outside in needed. BC contains nitric acid and nitric acid mists are bad for your lungs. OK, on barrels I plug the muzzle and attach an handle to the breech plug. I sand blast the barrel lightly. I degrease with lacquer thinner then alcohol. I use one propane torch in each hand to heat. I also use an infrared thermometer to check the progress. 250-350 F is a good place to start. I apply the solution with cotton cloth working from a plastic bowl. Use a wood stock to hold the cloth, like a big Q-tip. Difficult places get applied with scotchbrite and a little scrubbing. It takes several passes to get it dark and even. Weather permitting, I place the barrel in a humid place in the garden under some grape vines to rust further. I card with degreased steel wool, and if it looks good, I oil. There is about three after rust cardings after oiling, so don't put it together right away.
I heat and dip small parts.
Just an aside, DO NOT make any DIY quick blues that contain mercuric chloride. They work great but, MC is a highly toxic and cumulative poison. It will cause serious long term health problems.
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I like it, it does a great job of browning when prepped and applied correctly, plus you can get a nicely browned barrel in an hour where it can take days with a sweat box.
Curtis
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I don't care for it. I have used it and it soon wears off. But it kinda depends on what you want from the browning. If your goal is color, then any that will give you color rapidly will do. When I brown I do it for the protection it can provide against rust and minor scratching. The color is secondary. To get the maximum protection from browning takes slow rusting with dilute solutions and at least a couple of weeks of rusting and carding. Blackening will increase scratch resistance because the black oxide is harder than the red.
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Duane,
I use it for small parts like lock-plates but I prefer Laurel Mountain cold brown for barrels. The cold brown seems much more reliable when it comes to obtaining a uniform, deep, durable brown. For me, the hot browning often comes out blotchy and seems just generally less predictable.
Maybe its me.
Best Regards,
JMC
John Cholin
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I have found it to be a durable, very rust resistant finish if applied as directed. A little extra heat during application helps. Not exactly a PC finish if you are careful about that kind of stuff.
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I’ve got guns from the 1970s browned with it. Holding up well.
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I used it some in the late 70s. From what I remember it creates finer rust particles than cold brown, probably from the application process.If you use 2 applications and let it afterrust a couple days it will be more even colored and not blotchy.
The only thing the rust does is absorb oil to prevent further rust.
I am pretty sure rust is the same now as it was in the 18th century, however you get it doesn't make any difference.
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I feel the fine grained red/brown is more in keeping with what was seen back in the day. I have disassembled a couple of antique longrifles, and found this beautiful plum brown under the forearm, with the courser plain old rust brown on the top. This would indicate to me that the color under the forearm is the original finish. I think the finer grain rusting resists afterrusting better than the courser finishes. I only use the Birchwood Casey product when I and aging parts by scotchbrighting them after application. With proper preparation, the Laurel Mountain produce can produce the clear fine grained red/brown finish I like.
Hungry Horse
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Since I started cold browning, about 20yrs ago, I've never gone back to hot browning. Cold gives much better depth and color. Won't rub off, can get red to chocolate, to purple, to black. Will last as long as the gun.
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Whatever you use I think you have to give it time to get the rust attached to the metal in order for it to be durable.
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Last winter here in WNY i accidentally found a way to get a great cold brown. Not wanting to build a humidity box, I put the parts outside in the freezing weather after putting brown on them and them brought them inside. The fine condensation on the cold metal produced the best brown I have ever gotten. I repeated this several times. I used laurel Mt
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I have found that plum brown is ok for new steel barrel but do not recommend it for Damascus barrels.
Feltwad
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I used to use it, it works OK if applied correctly but compared to Laurel Mountain it is a lot of work and much harder to apply. If you screw up the degreasing process it can go south badly. Here in Florida, cold browning doesn't take long at all, never more than 2 days. Also if you bring the parts into the bathroom with a shower, you can do it in a day, easily. I prefer Laurel Mountain because it really is not necessary to do a perfect degreasing job although it will go a little quicker if you do. Within reason, Laurel Mountain will still work if you handle the parts with your bare hands.
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I,v seen some very pretty Plum Brown however when I try it the result isn,t so good.
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The first time I used it I felt the color to be heavy on the bronze side. I then tried applying blueing prior to the plumb brown and I thought
That looked pretty good. Im curious if anyone else tried that and if there are any reasons not to. It has worn through in spots from use
But I only did one application of growing.