AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Nhgrants on December 08, 2018, 10:48:17 PM
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In the case where the trigger plate is beneath the trigger guard, how have you shaped
The wood along the sides of the trigger plate? The surface of the plate is below the surface of the wood
The depth the guard the amount that he guard is inletted. Is the wood each side of the trigger under the bow
Flush with trigger plate or left above?
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I always finish mine flush... i.e.... The wood and the triggerplate at the same level.
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Same here, the wood is level witht he plate.
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I usually notch the underside of the trigger guard and the top of the trigger plate so the trigger plate isn't so deeply inlet. If it is still slightly deep I just leave it as you will run into some architectural problems if you remove wood to make it flush.
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(https://i.ibb.co/G3bCcxT/100-1692.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rf1547s)
(https://i.ibb.co/TBGVZMb/100-1654.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Fb1S940)
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If you are on a PC- you can hold the Ctrl button down on the keyboard, and press the + key to enlarge the piage and picture. Pressing the Ctrl button and the ZERO key will return the page to normal size.
(https://i.ibb.co/7gGpChX/100-6522-zpsfgfzq3wi.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LQCgRK8)
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Hi NHGrants,
Mike Brooks described one way and I use that method quite often so that the trigger guard and trigger plate can both be inlet flush to the wood where they overlap. However, you can also allow the trigger plate to be inlet below the surface of the wood at its front where it overlaps the guard and then the guard inlet down on top of it. In that way, the plate is flush with the wood for most of its length and then "submerges" just where the guard comes into contact. The first method is illustrated in the first photo. The bottom of the guard was filed where it overlaps the trigger plate creating a step. Then the plate is inlet flush with the wood and the guard can still sit down in its own mortice.
(https://i.imgur.com/K3Ej2ra.jpg)
These were done using the second method I described:
(https://i.imgur.com/9HdtfWu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P0ymkZY.jpg)
When either method is done well, you almost cannot tell the difference.
dave
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I usually lap the plate and guard as Mike described. If I don’t, I shorten the front of the plate and let the the guard butt up to it. (Typed this earlier and didn’t hit send.)
Bob
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Generally, when I inlet a trigger plate, I slope the rear of the metal to fit in a slope cut in the wood. No need for another screw this way, and helps hide the back a bit. I also usually have the front of the lock plate, about 1/8th inch under the front of the trigger guard. This requires filing a notch in the trigger plate to accommodate the front of the trigger guard. This may seem like extra work, but it does make for a very solid trigger assembly.
Matt
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On 2 of my earliest builds , the trigger plate was attached to the TG to eliminate the front TG tab ...this allowed a longer RR. The ass'y was then held in place by a wood screw though the front of the trigger plate and a rear screw through both the rear finial of the TG and trigger plate...this screw was visible, The trigger plate was approx 1/16" below the wood surface and nothing was done w/ it. Discontinued doing this w/ the 3rd build.....Fred
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Please try to avoid a big flat spot on either side of the trigger plate. The wood either tapers gently away from the plate, or is pleasingly rounded, depending on the shape of the stock fore and aft the trigger plate.
(https://i.ibb.co/kcMpZZ0/DSC-3533.jpg) (https://ibb.co/88XJkk2)