AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Contemporary Accoutrements => Topic started by: tippit on April 30, 2019, 07:56:19 PM
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Forged up a Keeslar Flared Finger Guard knife 9 inches OAL. Do I keep the belly in the blade or grind it straight? tippit
(https://i.ibb.co/82SGBcW/Keeslar-Flare-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hHtrMfP)
(https://i.ibb.co/QHtm2PW/Keeslar-Flare-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hdw8PBG)
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I would keep the belly in the blade. When I cut something, I tend to use the front portion of the blade on the draw stroke, then push down more towards the back of the blade on the forward stroke, so the belly would do well for me.
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I like the "sweep" that Joe puts in his blades, so I would leave it.
Here is a pic of a knife Joe made for me years ago. For size that bright spot in the pic is a quarter.
(https://i.imgur.com/9FP0QGL.jpg)
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If you decide you don't like it, send it my way, and I will take care of it. Grin
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Since it’s not based on a period design, you’ve got a lot of freedom. I prefer less belly for an all-rounder.
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Leave it. I seem to get more cut from a curved sharp edge than one of equal length tip to bolster that tapers straight the whole way.
Besides, if it gets used enough, like it should, the frequent sharpening will reduce some of that belly over time.
A long, long, time. Lol
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Might split the difference and leave a little belly, but not as much as is currently on it. I think that you might find that the blade geometry will get a bit complicated with a straight back and a deeply curved edge, as the triangle of the blade's cross-section will need to change dramatically in the rear half of the blade. In other words, if you try to keep the sides of the blade flat, you will end up with a blade thicker in the middle than at the base, so the sides will have to twist a bit to keep both distal taper and good edge geometry. Not a big deal with a slight belly, particularly if you use files and sandpaper instead of a belt sander, but with a deep belly it will be a lot more of a problem.
You will notice that Huntschool's blade is curved along the back as well as the belly, which removes that problem.
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Thanks for all your input on the Keeslar Flare knife...here's what I decided to do. No grinding just re-shaped with the forge and hammers. Then the first grind to get it ready to quench and temper. If I keep it, I'll cut the handle shorter, so I won't drill any pin holes for the handle yet. Handle will either be Sheep Horn or Curly Maple....tippit
(https://i.ibb.co/YddwS4p/Keeslar-Flare-5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DMMTFP5)
(https://i.ibb.co/gb8pnQM/Keeslar-Flare-6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZRrPZv6)
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For my taste your re configured blade flows much more gracefully than the drastic belly you had on it before.
Mark
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I agree -- looks much better now ;). Maybe on the next one make the blade longer with the same sweep - for some reason to my eye this one has a "stubby feel" to it.
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Always liked a knife with a Roach Belly and a sharp point,best of both worlds.Nice work.
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P.W.Berkuta,
Maybe something like this with the flared finger guard...a little less stubby.
(https://i.ibb.co/djTHFm3/Keeslar-Flare10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckBs0Yp)
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SWEET!
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P.W.Berkuta,
Maybe something like this with the flared finger guard...a little less stubby.
(https://i.ibb.co/djTHFm3/Keeslar-Flare10.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ckBs0Yp)
AH -- YES -- love it - it appeals to my sense of balance - all is right with the universe now ;) ;D 8).