AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Don Steele on June 14, 2019, 02:55:08 PM
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I've seen folks post comments about the use of "cheap diamond files" to extend the life of their flints. I was intrigued and found just such an item online so I placed an order. The set of 6 files was something like $10.00.
They are of varying grit. I picked one of the rougher ones to test on my flints. Over the last few months, when I have been able to focus on my flintlock shooting, I've used that file to dress the rock on my rifle from time to time.
At this time, I am able to report a couple of things that I have learned:
1. Using the file sharpens the leading edge without resulting in loss of length of the flint nearly as quickly as happens using the traditional knapping method. The distance from the leading edge of the rock to the frizzen face remains constant for a much longer period i.e.: more shots before needing to move the rock forward in the jaws of the cock or replace it altogether. In the first picture (below) you are looking at a flint that has fired a little over 50 shots. It has been touched up along the way with the file. I took this picture after the last 22 shots were fired, after cleaning but before any additional dressing was done. It has not been adjusted forward in the cock since I installed it.
(https://i.ibb.co/f9HFDft/Iphone-pics-6-14-19-032.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r3H0dYM)
2. Patient use of the file applied evenly across the entire underside of the flint will reduce the natural thickening that occurs when restoring the edge by any method. It also reduces/eliminates the "roughness" or un-evenness of the edge that we see when knapping. As a result, once you acquire a little skill with the file (and use a little patience) your flint will retain a sharp smooth (not jagged) edge that will fully contact the face of the frizzen as it passes across it, even after many shots have been fired. The picture below is the same rock. I tilted the lock a little and put some light underneath it to enhance the area where I am filing away the thickening (note the area that appears to "glow" in the light)
(https://i.ibb.co/4jc9RxB/Iphone-pics-6-14-19-033.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7GH8tF7)
For anyone wishing to give this a try, one lesson I learned was to dress the rock frequently, not wait until it stops working altogether and then try using the file to bring it back to life. I'm not using a lot of pressure on the rock. Just enough to maintain even contact and allow the tool to do the work.
Disclaimer: It's entirely possible that my own knapping skills are not sufficiently well developed and those who have mastered that art will have no problem achieving these same benefits, but that's not me.
I'm keeping a couple of these "cheap diamond files" in my shooting box and don't care about any "HC" issues.
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Been using one for years. Purist may poo poo the idea but it's easy, fast and effective.
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I have a set of diamond files I bought from HF several years ago. They seem to be of reasonable quality and were certainly cheap.
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Don, thanks for the idea and for taking the time to put together a well-written cogent post with photos! This is an idea I had not seized on previously, but the way you present it makes a lot of sense to me now.
Regards,
Carl
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I find it super easy to just tap, tap, tap, tap and done when I need to re-edge a flint but I do love your idea for preshaping one that might be a bit thick or otherwise wonky. Great post. Thanks for getting the old wheels turning.
Bobby
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I have a set of diamond files I bought from HF several years ago. They seem to be of reasonable quality and were certainly cheap.
I also have a set of Harbor Freight diamond files and they seem to work well
for what I want to. Never thought of dressing a flint with one but if it works
then use it.HF has a few good items and I bought a horizontal cut off saw from
them 2 and 1/2 years ago and it is over built and very well engineered.$259and it replaced an American made saw that I paid $200
for in 1963 that was completely shot after 54 years of use.Also have bought a 6" bench grinder from them that has the best wheels
I have ever used but their replacement wheels are poor and I will not use them.At their current prices I can buy another grinder for
$3 more than replacement wheels from another source.
Bob Roller
Bob Roller
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I get the most out of my flints using a small hammer, and a Knapping pin. I find it much faster than a diamond file, and it removes very small flakes.
Hungry Horse
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I was intrigued and tried it. By golly, the files work! I was certain they would just bounce off the flint.
Still, if a flint gets slow on me or flat refuses to work, I just replace it. Fast, easy, and sure-fire. Back home, I put the worn flint in the vise and dress it using a combination of pressure and percussion work applied with an eighth-in punch. I enjoy the task.
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I reckon this means I'm headed to Harbor Freight in the morning.
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My normal practice is to knapp the flint in the jaws. Often, though, when I get a non-spark clack, I'll dress the flint edge with a file or even a knife. This usually gives at least a couple more good shots before I need to knapp. Back at the ranch I'll work with the diamond files to get a few more shots from the flint.
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To sort of close this topic out I thought it appropriate to post the most recent picture showing where I'm at with this test.
In the picture below, you see the same flint shown in the original picture. Over the last 50 shots, since taking the original pictures dressing with the diamond file has resulted in some shortening. I finally reached the point of needing to add a spacer behind the rock. This rock now has 100 shots on it. It's still sparking good and I'm not sure how much farther I will push it, but it has been an interesting test.
(https://i.ibb.co/wRbW3yd/diamond-file-test-100-shots-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4NskBH)
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The diamond file gave me several more shots. Plus, I’m still using the same flint. Great idea. Thanks.
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I use this aluminum over size hand vise for a lot of things, but with flint out of lock, I’m using it to hold my flint while sharpening.
(https://i.ibb.co/jDhkH81/7-D3179-BC-4-E9-B-4010-B2-DD-3-B20-BE928-C94.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QM9vXJ1)
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I have a very nice L.S. Starrett No. 86 hand vise that has been in my family my entire life. It's the perfect tool for holding flints that need more severe dressing than I want to do while they are in the lock.
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My "file" is about the size of a credit card and equally thin. I glued it to a small length of wood, say a 1x2 about 12 inches long. I set it on a work bench and the file remains stationary (hold it down with one hand) while I hold the flint (with my fingers on the other hand) and move it over the face of the file. Also, you need to add a drop or two of water to the surface of the file.
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Sure would like to try those HF diamond files. What do they look like ? I want to make sure of getting the right file.please!!! Thanks. Sonnyboy
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This is a great idea. I have flints that need attention but have been too lazy to fix.
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Here's a link to the set I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-74330DF-6-Piece-Flat-Diamond-Grit-File-Set/113286518034
In my June 25 entry on this thread, I posted a picture of a French Amber flint that I had 100 shots on.
That particular rock went to 145 shots before I replaced it.
I require my locks to provide the ultimate in fast ignition as I'm not a good enough offhand shooter to "hold through" slow ignitions like some here are.
By the time I got 145 shots on that rock, I decided to pull it even though it was still working and would have been fine for Table or Chunk shooting where I'm able to use a rest and "holding though" is easier than offhand.
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I went to HF yesterday an looked at the diamond coated files which was 6 or 8 to the pack. Geez they are all small an narrow. You got to file the heck out of your flint to reduce edge thickness with it. I am starting to lean in knapping the edge for new sharpness over filing my life away to an acceptable conclusion....... Sonny
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I like these better.....wider, and very handy for sharpening knives, etc...Called "Eye-Lap"
https://www.gesswein.com/p-6672-eze-lap-diamond-hand-lappers.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjw1_PqBRBIEiwA71rmtcwFbJgsNPFGlZ4xKQr1B14A5DuyWnX_T1dZ_Ec3zm_Svfn7y7f7xoCISIQAvD_BwE
Or here for a whole set:
https://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK4-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVTDZC/ref=asc_df_B000UVTDZC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11574045153477904335&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031634&hvtargid=pla-596145147273&psc=1
(https://i.ibb.co/WnCpFws/3496018.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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Here's a link to the set I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SE-74330DF-6-Piece-Flat-Diamond-Grit-File-Set/113286518034
Don, thanks for the info. Nice little set of flat files for 12 dollars and change. Interestingly, they were ordered from ebay and were received from Amazon.
Jack
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To sort of close this topic out I thought it appropriate to post the most recent picture showing where I'm at with this test.
In the picture below, you see the same flint shown in the original picture. Over the last 50 shots, since taking the original pictures dressing with the diamond file has resulted in some shortening. I finally reached the point of needing to add a spacer behind the rock. This rock now has 100 shots on it. It's still sparking good and I'm not sure how much farther I will push it, but it has been an interesting test.
(https://i.ibb.co/wRbW3yd/diamond-file-test-100-shots-001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4NskBH)
Wonderful topic for us rookies! Please take one more picture, from the top, to show the forward edge of the dressed flint in relation to the frizzen.
ETA: Found some good info in a older Muzzleblasts article that answered my question.
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100 shots on one flint!? My mind is completely blown.
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The Home Depot sells a Fiskars Diamond file for about $7.00. It works well for removing some of the hump that is on some Flints.