AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Contemporary Accoutrements => Topic started by: BJH on November 08, 2019, 02:06:24 AM
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In Sibleys book they suggested 1/4 I’d hole in the sout end. And using the tang of a file to taper the inside dia. Anybody use a #5 Morse taper reamer to ream the hole for a nicely tapered plug? Just curious.... BJH
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I don't see why you couldn't, but all I have is a few files so simple it is for me.
Mike
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I use a taper pin reamer on my own horns and it works very nicely. The taper is gentle enough that the plug jams and stays put. I end up with about 5/16" at the mouth.
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I don't see why it wouldn't work, I have tried the file tang thing it does a respectable job. I have a couple old pipe reamers in 1/8-1/2" that work well. A tapered Rat tail file or rasp also does a good job. More than one way to skin a cat.
Once you cut the horn off drill the hole and also drill one in the scrap end of the tip. Try tapering it and see how it goes. Gives you Two hole to test on or drill crossway holes and try them.
Tim C.
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Repairman's reamer from HF. Modify it as needed.
https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-reamer-66936.html
Fred
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I use a reamer made for violin makers to shape the holes for the tuning pegs. I also have a peg tapering shaver so I can easily make a matching spout plug to fit. Perfect fit of peg and spout.
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For the pour spout I have used a 0MI reamer, drilled a 1/4. hole and then reamed in the taper. That leaves a 1/4" at the starting point. The 0MT reamer is .2520" at the small end and .3561 at the large end.
For the fill hole, I threaded the inside of the wood cap with a 1" NPT pipe thread and threaded the plug with 1:MPT.. Big hole to fill the horn small hole to empty it.
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What’s a OMI reamer?
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Taylor that sounds like the same reamer I have in mind.
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I have just used a file tang on the 2 I've drilled. I just use the same tang to lay out the peg on the wood I'm going to make it out of and then fine tune it from there.
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This is the one I use on my horns. The finished holes take a fiddle peg well.
https://www.powderhornsandmore.com/product/t-handle-reamer/
Mike
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The key here is to make a tapered hole. I use a lineman's ream. Have for many years. I also use the tang of a file to make a different taper. I even taper my tiny holes in my priming horns. The taper on the plug is as important as on the hole. I tend to make the plug tapered so it touches down in the throat first. Keeps it from splitting the tip of the horn.
Steve
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I'm not even sure it is necessary to taper the hole. You could just make the plug longer and or tighter. Once powder gets poured in and out a few times the plug is going to fit differently. I usually leave mine sticking out a bit for that reason. As Steve says with a tapered plug you run the risk of splitting the horn.
One time at a show a guy was looking at a horn pulled the plug, stuck it back in an popped it with his hand, the horn split and he walked on. Easy fix but aggravating.
If the plug is to loose, soak the shaft with water, let it dry and see how it fits.
Tim C.
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I don't generally taper my holes. I do taper my stoppers ever so slightly.
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Perhaps I'm a Type A. When I pour powder I like to get on with it, so my spouts are 5/16". As to the plugs, I make mine v slightly oversized, and then split them with a fine saw so that they need to be compressed a little bit for insertion; they never come loose.