AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: rogerpjr on December 03, 2019, 01:38:30 AM
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I cut the arm on the sear that the trigger hits too short. The part is no longer made or available. Is it ok to braze on about 3/16" to the end? I only have a Smith's Little Torch oxy-acetylene setup so I could possibly weld on another piece of 1/4" rod and then shorten it too but I have never tried gas welding. Don't have an arc or mig welder.
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Brazing will work just fine. File the remaining sear and the extension so you have a lap joint of a 1/4 inch or so. With a single trigger the sear arm is not going to have a lot of beating. Be sure to keep the nose of the sear cold during the brazing operation.
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I had to extend the sear bars on the 2 L & R Bailes locks I used for my double barrel flintlock shotgun. I used my wire feed welder to extend the sear bars. I experienced no issues. I think if the only option I had was to braze on an extension I would grind the sear bar to half thickness and do a lap joint in lieu of a butt joint just for a bit more peace of mind.
David
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What Heinz said. lol
David
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I agree with the braze/solder
But would like to add a little something- dry wall mudd makes a good heat Sink.
Just pack a little on the rest of the sear and you can then proceed with the bar
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I agree with the braze/solder
But would like to add a little something- dry wall mudd makes a good heat Sink.
Just pack a little on the rest of the sear and you can then proceed with the bar
Now this is a good thing to know, and far cheaper than regulation heat sink putty.
Thanks for the tip.
Mike
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Would the steel vice jaws work well enough for a heat sink? You will want to hold the sear with something any way.
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Would the steel vice jaws work well enough for a heat sink? You will want to hold the sear with something any way.
For soldering, I have done this and added a damp cloth to help more. But that was just an added precaution to not draw the temper out. Was probably fine without it.
Mike
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If you braze with brass you can get the whole sear hot enough for the braze to flow, cool very slightly, and quench. Then polish and temper. The brazing temp is higher than what’s needed for hardening.
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I agree with the braze/solder
But would like to add a little something- dry wall mudd makes a good heat Sink.
Just pack a little on the rest of the sear and you can then proceed with the bar
Sick the nose of the sear in a potato as a heatsink.
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You can just clamp the nose of the sear in the vise jaws and then you can even weld on the tail with out removing the temper of the nose. Better yet if you have copper vise jaws. The copper is a excellent heat sink. I have done this several times.
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I agree with what Jerry says: "You can just clamp the nose of the sear in the vise jaws and then you can even weld on the tail with out removing the temper of the nose. Better yet if you have copper vise jaws. The copper is a excellent heat sink. I have done this several times" -- except my vise has aluminum jaws which work much better in my opinion ;).