AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: rick landes on January 12, 2021, 06:37:15 PM
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(https://i.ibb.co/B61spbd/IMG-0120.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1XS2g1h)
Here is a patch box I am working on. I am undecided as to how best to put side plates on. I am considering cutting a small tab and putting it under the hinge from the lid side. I would then bring a small rounded tab to the top and bottom of the tab to feather into (abut) the upper hinge on the upper and lower corners. I figured the flow would look a bit better. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the input
As a side FYI I have not been on the forum for quite a time. I had a round with diabetes followed by a preliminary diagnosis of five types of cancer. Three were false, two correct. Two types of thyroid cancer. Could have been from radiation exposure. Who knows. All is moving forward now. Been told it is gone for now. You know whatever don't kill you just makes you more handicapped. Don't mean to dump my junk on anyone. Just felt you all deserved an answer to "Where has this bloke been!".
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Rick, good to have you back. I’ll be adding you to my “pray for my buddies with serious health issues” list.
Are you reluctant to just screw the sideplates in place near the lid due to design considerations?
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The black dot mid point through is my intended screw location. Thinking I will use a #4 1/2". The top nearest the hinge is exactly as you noted. I am hoping to mate the pieces well enough that there is little, if any, visible gap. On the butt plate end I may cut a small under surface level notch and insert the tip.
I am probably over thinking it. time to commit...
thanks for the interest! (and well wishes)
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Just my opinion, but I'd leave those sideplates off of that gun.
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Just my opinion, but I'd leave those sideplates off of that gun.
I agree
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Yep
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I think you need side plates just not that which you have proposed. You have a very wide box lid the proposed side plates are only going to make it look bad design wise. You need to have very slim trim plates to give the final finish a classic look, yours are too heavy. Your current is too gaudy in my opinion. Here is an example of a similar width box with slim side plates that brings home the class factor.
(https://i.ibb.co/HP3VY21/download.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3FQ7WsG)
you might consider shortening your pattern so that you terminate the foliage into the hinge on the lid side. Narrow up the brass and loose the lump from the saw tooth feature forward. keep the detail closer in to the box lid and you might have a winner. That cutting out is a lot of work but as it is it doesn't look good. make a paper pattern of the current brass to cut and trim to see what works best. This is a good place where paper can save you a lot of extra work. Just looking at the other option is to draw the plates back toward the butt plate and sweep in the end block of the existing leading element to but into the hinge due the tuck the leading edge under the hinge treatment and cut off the excess foliage. That maybe your best shot here.
(https://i.ibb.co/0yGdQrJ/20210112-213340-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fdxPQH0)
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thank you for the feedback. That's why I posted it. I have been looking at it and pondering it for some time. I think the thinning up of the foliage has some definite merit as well as the under hooking to the hinge area.
AS shown in the picture was the best I could do to get the pieces to stay on the stock and not roll onto the shop floor. I do think closer to the lid is good too. Perhaps when it is narrower and drawn closer to the lid it will be more acceptable.
I very much again appreciate the feedback as the flow of these arms is what has always appealed to me.
The drawing is especially helpful. I appreciate your time. I need the feedback as this is longrifle number two for me...
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Usually I draw the complete Pbox on tracing paper and lay it on the stock for location. Once I'm satisfied w/ the location, some needle prick points are made through the tracing paper for locating the actual Pbox on the stock.......Fred
(https://i.ibb.co/z5GQwfM/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pPJbpX7)
(https://i.ibb.co/BTVfQ06/Lancaster-IH-014.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8PDmf1x)
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Good looking rifle Fred and a good tip for patchbox work.
Thanks Richard
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Thanks for that tip. Many ways to skin a cat. Always nice to learn the good ones!
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I thought I’d share an update. I took the side pieces and thinned them up from my original drawing and cutouts. Here is the modifed inlay mostly in place
(https://i.ibb.co/2WN8NpQ/62-C401-A4-40-BC-4843-9-F13-568-FD19757-B1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VJmHmkZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/v32MvmL/27-C1-A462-A26-C-4-A6-B-95-AB-BC86933-A02-D6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qNb2F9m)
The top hinge isn’t tightened down properly and the holding screws are just working ones. Final screws will be shaped to oval heads and colored etc.
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There are more ways to attach your side plates than just with screws, though you have already gone that route with this one.
Here's two that don't use any screws at all for the side plates, ie: a Jacob Kuntz that uses very small escutcheon nails of brass with countersink heads filed smooth with the brass, and secondly, a Verner rifle with in this case, nickel nails with domed heads and barbed shanks.
(https://i.ibb.co/F8xLpRh/DSCN4123.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9y8kPQp)
(https://i.ibb.co/4MBZVJr/100-1913.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2PX7k54)
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Thank you for the input. Your efforts on my behalf are always appreciated.