AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: smart dog on July 11, 2021, 01:00:51 AM
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Hi,
A client asked me if I would assemble and decorate a Kibler colonial rifle kit. I agreed to do it because, although I am familiar with the kits and examined them closely, I've never built one. So I decided to take on the project. I don't really like doing kits because I feel stifled so I agreed to this project because I am waiting for parts for other work and I figured it won't take long. TRIGGER WARNING: If you are tired of reading good things about Jim's kits, perhaps you might not want to follow this thread. The Kibler & Co. kit is phenomenal. Jim and Katherine anticipated every need and designed the kit so it could be built on a kitchen table by someone with very few tools and skills. You have to work really hard to ruin one of these kits, although I have seen a couple by makers who managed to do just that. While I am very impressed with their offering, there are trade offs. Kibler &Co did most of the work for you and you cannot change the architecture very much.
Anyway, so I got the kit late Saturday two weeks ago and opened the box Sunday morning. I then got to work on it at 7:30AM on Monday and almost finished the entire assembly by 5:00 PM. All that remains for assembly is pinning the nose cap, installing the sights, installing the trigger guard, and fitting the ramrod. The time required included 2 walks of my dog Willow, a 45 minute phone conversation with the client, some play time with Willow, lunch, a short nap after lunch, and a grocery run. I don't think it took me more than 4.5 total hours of gun work to assemble the gun with the most time consuming task making and fitting the brass plate on the end of the patch box. I have not fitted the trigger guard and won't until all detailing of the stock architecture is done. However, it would only take me 15 minutes or so to fit it. Here is the rifle.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q4rqT1U.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JIL1HLD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/atYPpHV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ADzD47N.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3cbN8lH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uRz26Fj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GrZmkEH.jpg)
So the next step is how do I turn this widely distributed canvas into my own signature piece. I can only do so much because the architecture is fixed by Kibler. Let's see what happens.
dave
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Hi,
This is a fun project and that is what matters to me. I don't do this work to make a serious living (which is really hard to do) but because I am challenged and learn stuff. It keeps old age dementia at bay. I finished the assembly the second day although I slowed a bit as I tweaked the stock architecture a bit. Forward of the lock, the stock is as perfect in my eyes as one could ever make. I will do nothing there except cut in ramrod channel moldings and carving around the rear pipe tang. It is the lock and wrist area that my design eye diverges from Jim Kibler's. The stock is very "deep throated" on the bottom and thick at the top by the barrel tang. Now let me be clear, I get the architecture that Jim designed and admire it. It has a very solid, stand up, business like appearance. However, my taste is a little slimmer in the throat that I believe is more elegant. So I bent the barrel tang down just a little. I did that by simply holding the tang in a vise and using the barrel as a lever, bent the tang a little. No heat, not muss, no fuss. Simple.
Then I inlet the tang deeper in the stock to accommodate the bend and rasped and filed the stock on top of the wrist accordingly. However to get the profile right, I also had to take off from the bottom and there lay a problem. The trigger plate needed to be inlet deeper but the trigger pin hole is fixed. If the plate went deeper, the trigger would hang out higher above the plate, which would not work very well. So, I filled the pin hole in the trigger with weld and then redrilled it after modifying the stock. My goal was to reduce the throat of the stock a bit and to create a straighter line from the tang down to the comb. It is not straight but straighter than the original profile. I believe that enhances the profile a lot. I won't do more because carving around the tang will change things a bit so I have to anticipate the effect of the carving on the profile. Here is the rifle as it stands and I included a previous photo to show the changes I made.
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/JIL1HLD.jpg)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/jrBDg5e.jpg)
I inlet the guard and the side plate and drilled for all the pins. The barrel lugs are milled from the barrel and the holes in the stock predrilled as are all the other pin holes. I felt like a robot drilling the barrel lug holes from one side and then turning the stock around and drilling them from the other. I even made little robot machine noises as I moved from one hole to the next. ;D Jim provides good spring steel stock for the pins. Much better and stronger than finishing nails.
Here is the rest of the rifle as it stands.
(https://i.imgur.com/u66aMaS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xiHuuBM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X8SeVgI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EgO74js.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JW1fK2o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jvr1MtS.jpg)
dave
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Hi,
So I am working on the gun and thinking, "I am on vacation", only having to do what I want, like carving. Kibler & Co. took care of the grunt work. Then I get to the patch box lid and the brass end cap. The kit supplied a piece of sheet brass! What!! I have to make it? Are you kidding me? I was beginning to pretend I was a Millennial here, ya know! Now you expect me to actually make something? "Sheeesh!" as Jean Shepard used to say. ::)
Well I stirred myself from my fiercely defended summer lethargy and got some work done. I started adding details to the stock. The fore stock needs little finishing other than sanding so I cut the fore stock moldings along the ramrod channel. With Kibler's machined stock, this was easy! Some folks use jigs to do this but I am much more low tech. I use an old marking gauge that was my great, great, grandfather's and mark the distance from the edge of the ramrod channel to the thimble pin holes. I want the edge of the molding to be lined up with those holes. Then I use the gauge to incise a deep line marking the edge of the molding.
(https://i.imgur.com/lPKNTfe.jpg)
I cut that line using an English checkering tool with long axis.
(https://i.imgur.com/MSbrhrZ.jpg)
Then I deepen the cut with a 60 degree Gunline checkering tool.
(https://i.imgur.com/M2UH5zT.jpg)
Next, I peel away the background to form a raised edge to the molding using a scary sharp dog leg chisel.
(https://i.imgur.com/GP8IY5X.jpg)
I clean up the edge and level the ground using a bottoming file.
(https://i.imgur.com/WQKuJPA.jpg)
Then I scrape off the tool marks with a 3-edged chip carving knife.
(https://i.imgur.com/xFHcaAk.jpg)
I used those tools to shape the terminus of the molding at the muzzle end.
(https://i.imgur.com/0mBpGwW.jpg)
Next I cut the lock and side plate panel moldings. But first, I scraped and sanded the contours of the lock area to clean up the shape and machine marks. For those of you intending to make a gun from a rough stock, the level of shaping and smoothing exhibited by a Kibler kit is the point of shaping at which you should even consider starting to cut any moldings. I sketch the design on the stock. In this case I decided the "apron and beaver tail" should be long to match the long, narrow shape of the lock and side plate. I also made the tail and apron large because the wrist of the gun is large. I've seen some photos of Kibler Colonial rifle kits with thin, tiny beaver tails that are so obscure they remind me of "Where's Waldo" given the thick wrist of the Kibler rifle.
I draw the design, and then use my stabbing in chisel to outline it.
(https://i.imgur.com/q2mPqDg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iDvqIX4.jpg)
Then I back cut the edge with a small flat skew palm chisel.
(https://i.imgur.com/tGkNADy.jpg)
Now I want everyone to understand that my choice of tools is affected by my disability in my hands. I suffered severe frostbite several times during my mountain rescue days and have neurologic damage in my fingers. I rely on palm and micro chisels where others use full length tools just as well. My hands are extremely strong allowing me to use palm chisels effectively but they may not work on hard maple as well for others.
I clean up the cuts with a variety of tools including my chip carving knife and riffler files.
(https://i.imgur.com/hkjJF7f.jpg)
Here is where I am. I'll clean up the molding later as I finish the gun.
(https://i.imgur.com/wWJUzph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrm3AMK.jpg)
dave
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Hi Guys,
I got back on the job yesterday and am beginning the carving. I took some time to design it. It will be a mix of Moravian, early Germanic, and folk art styles. There will also be a mix of brass, silver, and silver and brass wire inlay. I haven't decided on all the details yet but here is the beginning. The initial cheek carving design, which will include an engraved brass sun with brass wire inlay:
(https://i.imgur.com/zFTdjxF.jpg)
I stabbed in the outlines and relieved the background:
(https://i.imgur.com/oaAlBD5.jpg)
Then I shaped the cheek piece a bit more:
(https://i.imgur.com/K6CuJfQ.jpg)
Before doing any more, I decided to pencil in the rest of the carving.
(https://i.imgur.com/12p68j4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9tF97qf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xyE7QhU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xyE7QhU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZBAzUYM.jpg)
The clouds around the sun may be engraved silver inlays or silver wire. The design is just quickly penciled in and will change a bit as I make final decisions. The design under the cheek rest may be wire but could be a combination of relief and incised carving with wire accents. The Moravian star on the cheek piece will have an engraved solid silver center and silver wire outline and shading.
The barrel tang carving is classic German and Moravian. It may have silver dots at the end of each lobe.
The patch box will have a Moravian design at the base and a simple line border. It will be outlined on the stock with silver wire.
The lock side wrist carving is mostly from the Edward Marshall rifle with a twist. It will be a combination of relief and incised carving. The accents between the carving and the patch box are tentative and I think I'll try something else to bridge the space between the carving and the box lid.
This is fun!!!
dave
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Hi,
Got a lot more done but I've obviously slowed down a bit. Carving design and execution takes time and I spend a lot of time just looking at the gun. I finalized all my carving designs except for carving around the rear ramrod pipe. That is my task for a few days hence. I want to show the gun as it is but also the tools and methods I use to clean up the carving outlines and background. The first step is to smooth the wood using scrapers. I use carpet scraper blades from my local hardware store. They can be used for a long time, sharpened and used again. I find they are often better than actual cabinet maker's scrapers, and they are cheap.
(https://i.imgur.com/zcjcpjD.jpg)
I am scraping around the patch box.
(https://i.imgur.com/DtBUp9V.jpg)
This raises and important issue. Jim Kibler's CNC machining fits the patch box lid very precisely. The problem is when you stain and finish the rifle, that lid is going to be locked in place because of swelling in the wood. You need to scrape the dovetail on the lid and make sure the front dovetail is not locking your lid in place. The lid has to have some slop in the fit so humidity and finish don't jam it.
(https://i.imgur.com/p2hluQM.jpg)
The photo above shows some carving before clean up.
(https://i.imgur.com/XWhRj1D.jpg)
My primary tools are skew chisels, full length and palm to shear and scrape the ground clean.
(https://i.imgur.com/S75KMuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K5e4qyN.jpg)
I also use tapered dog leg rifflers to smooth the surface.
(https://i.imgur.com/aC3t17b.jpg)
Then I clean up and smooth the edges with an edge riffler.
(https://i.imgur.com/DeAf2ae.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DC2sLoh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AKhbnvt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L8hvAW2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/06qPJCX.jpg)
One of the great advantages of a Kibler kit is you have a gun right out of the box that is mostly finished. The downside to that is there is not a lot of excess wood anywhere. If you want to modify the stock or carve it, you need to be aware that there is little room for error. You really cannot be naive and go at it without careful thought and planning. That is the trade off you accept with a Kibler kit compared with a raw stock blank or a kit by most other makers.
After finishing the stock and whiskering a couple of times, I will inlet the decorative details including silver wire and finish the carving.
dave
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I am enjoying your vacation too Dave. Thanks for taking us along.
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Quite the contrary Dave, I'm very excited to open my Kibler this coming Monday, discouraging post not found yet. You are strutting your stuff and are extremely entertaining and informative. You'd get the ball with 3rd and ten every play on my team. You know, I look forward to my mistakes and am aware I need to get rid of them. To get to your level, not going to happen in my lifetime, but some youngsters here can. Nice prime time show Dave, thank you.
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Where was this 40 years ago before old age and neuropathy decided to take up residency in my body? Great job and looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Excellant work and great photo's. Thanks .....
Big John
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Dave, beautiful work as allways.
where did you get the bottoming file? Looks like a real handy tool.
Best regards
Rolf
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Hello smart dog , great tutorial and explanation of your work on a Kibler kit !
Monty
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You got skills my friend ;D
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for looking. The kit is a remarkable product and the beauty of it for new builders is in the end you have a very nice rifle designed by one of the best makers in the business. If you intend to move on to make more challenging gun projects you have an advantage in having the Kibler in your hands. It shows you what a good rifle should look like. If you pay attention to how it is made and shaped, you'll not make the mistakes typical of new builders such as leaving too much wood, making the lock and wrist area too slab sided, misshaping the cheek piece, etc. I intended to document the assembly process but I started it, did a task and thought, "well I'll do one more task and then set up the camera". The task was done in a moment and then I'd say, "well I'll do one more task and then set up the camera". Before I knew it, the rifle was assembled. It is so well inlet that the lock went in its mortice with no scraping or fitting at all. I just pushed it in place. I actually scraped the edges of the mortice slightly because I know the mortice edges will swell when the stock is stained and finished. I either scrape now or I scrape later. I managed the assembly using just a 1/4" flat chisel and a small gouge to clean up the ramrod pipe mortices a little. That's it. An electric drill was nice for drilling the barrel lug holes but nothing else was needed except to make the patch box end cap and what I use for finishing the wood surfaces. Pretty amazing product.
dave
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Hi Rolf,
It has been so long that I don't remember where I got that bottoming file. If you can weld a bit, they are easy to make from short still-sharp sections of old files.
dave
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Thanks Dave.
Tim
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Easy and fun to look at. Great job
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I can easily see the changes at the wrist area that you did and it does look slimmer and a bit more appealing to my eye. Nice work even if you make it look and sound simple and mundane ;) 8).
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What a pleasure to be along for the ride while a miracle worker makes his magic.
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Another great thread to follow. I love this stuff.
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Hi Guys,
Got a bit more done. I thought I'd show how I inlet small metal inlays efficiently. I use a method learned from Dave Price several years ago. I have an silver oval center to my Moravian star and a brass center for the sun to inlet.
(https://i.ibb.co/LRpvypK/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1Q2bN2c)
These little inlays can be hard to hold in place for tracing on the wood. Some folks glue them in place but this method is a lot better. Simply hold the inlay in place with Scotch or packing tape.
(https://i.ibb.co/xDsDqnC/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HV2VTcF)
Then lay a flexible metal ruler or strip on top and give it a good whack with a hammer.
(https://i.ibb.co/Bz0Jrgm/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p0YTR3g)
I like any task that can be done by smacking something with a hammer or mallet. I like those days when everything looks like a nail to me.
The inlay will leave a nice crisp impression on the wood.
(https://i.ibb.co/vqKV9tJ/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tKWQRdb)
I just stab in the outline and remove wood from the mortice.
(https://i.ibb.co/Fhrd4hw/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cyBshyF)
In a few moments the inlay is in and filed flush.
(https://i.ibb.co/T0RcrGh/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qg9Bx81)
Next up the sun.
(https://i.ibb.co/X4JLctf/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YWjQHh4)
(https://i.ibb.co/RyzPPTm/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/168KKG5)
(https://i.ibb.co/zXsK3f3/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ZBdyQTQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/XkGKNDB/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1J4PhMV)
Eventually they will be attached with epoxy and silver and brass nails. I also finished outlining the carving around the rear ramrod pipe tang. It is very Moravian. I show using a circle template to keep the design smooth and even on both sides of the stock. I make marks on both sides to position the template and then trace.
(https://i.ibb.co/KbMpf0G/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7jwdZYz)
(https://i.ibb.co/zX2K4YT/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/JHrffsW/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4p466Vw)
I scraped and cleaned up the rest of the stock and began whiskering. I'll carve the details and do the final decoration after whiskering the stock. As part of the whiskering process, I stain maple stocks yellow, orange, or red, which also shows up the scratches and rough parts. I originally posted this thread on the Muzzleloading Forum and asked folks to vote, red, orange, or yellow. Only one guy expressed a clear choice and it is yellow! Behold the Canary Kibler!
(https://i.ibb.co/yXtL0Sc/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vHp21Y6)
(https://i.ibb.co/gwRpsvs/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MpC4q8q)
(https://i.ibb.co/hsm0Jkf/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
This stuff is so much fun!!!
dave
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Dang Dave, I wish I’d have thought of the tape and hammer bit!
There are usually times during a build that I want to smack something!
Now I can do it, and not destroy anything.
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It's coming along nicely, Dave! It will be a beauty.
Curtis
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Dave, do you think the Yellow brings out the curl, if any?
Tim
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Before my time, but I hear stories at our club that Ron Griffey once had a rifle he either stained or painted bright orange. The only way to keep one for himself to shoot was to make it soooo ugly nobody tried to buy it from him. ;D
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Dave, do you think the Yellow brings out the curl, if any?
Tim
Hi Tim,
It does a little but remember it is almost completely scraped off during whiskering. However, it does linger in the softer grain and figure. The effect is more when I use orange or red. Ferric nitrate stain mostly overwhelms any lingering color.
dave
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Before my time, but I hear stories at our club that Ron Griffey once had a rifle he either stained or painted bright orange. The only way to keep one for himself to shoot was to make it soooo ugly nobody tried to buy it from him. ;D
Hi Osprey,
If I really wanted it to be ugly, I'd dye it US Forest Service Baby @#$%/!! Green.
dave
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Fancy Dave. Thank you for taking us along on this ride.
I was in the Vogler shop at Old Salem NC once and the builder had a longrifle stained yellow. It was an eye-opener. He explained the yellow allowed him to see imperfections, and disappeared under the AF staining process. Made sense to me.
God Bless, Marc
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Hi,
I started on the wire inlay. The scene within the cheek piece carving will be a brass sun face surrounded by brass wire rays. Then there will be silver clouds partly blocking the sun. It will have a naïve folk art style. First, I removed the inlays. I drilled the holes for the pins that will permanently attach them and used the holes to pop them out with an awl. I glued them to wood for engraving.
(https://i.ibb.co/HBrpmxg/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VJvpXQB)
It'll engrave them and then after permanent installation, I'll touch up the engraving with them on the rifle.
Here is the penciled design.
(https://i.ibb.co/c8g9RPR/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hd7Nrkr)
Every time I drew clouds they looked like floating dog *^*%$ but I kind of like them so floating dog *^*%$ it is. :D
I am starting out with 0.013" thick fine silver wire. That is quite thick but I want that width for the upper edges of the cloud, which represents the area most in the sunlight. The rest of the inlay will use 0.008-0.006 sterling ribbon. My goal is the fine silver will be bright white providing a bright halo effect around the edges of the clouds while the more gray colored sterling will actually provide a bit of shading. I wrestled with using engraved silver inlays for the clouds. My plan is if I am not happy with the silver wire, I can dig it out and inlay solid silver sheet over the incised cuts.
My wire inlay tools are simple. I use incise chisels made from hack saw blades. Many folks use curved gouges and flat chisels for stabbing in the designs. Frank Barlett used sharpened screw drivers. I cannot work effectively with those tools for this task. I need to huddle over the work and have short handled tools that I can place with precision.
(https://i.ibb.co/2Kxrbm2/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VBRGKry)
(https://i.ibb.co/gVTZW8D/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QdNvHV6)
I have some special pliers that help me a lot. They form different diameter curves in the metal ribbon before I insert them in the wood.
(https://i.ibb.co/Q6336MH/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NLddLKN)
(https://i.ibb.co/NCVnttV/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
When the ribbon is placed in the incised cut, you need sharp flush cut pliers to snip it off to length.
(https://i.ibb.co/gWmbnLz/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then just tap it in with a hammer.
I'll show cleaning it up and finishing it off in the next post.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/Wk8qQxW/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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I love following this stuff.
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Hi,
I finished the sun and clouds wire inlay. The wire ribbon used on most original long rifles was pretty thick stuff. You can get 0.014" and 0.008" thick sterling silver and brass ribbon from MBS. However, I prefe much thinner stuff for finer work and especially on British guns. So I buy silver sheet 0.005-0.006" and cut my ribbons. I just scribe a line marking out a ribbon 1/16"-3/32" wide and cut it with shears.
(https://i.ibb.co/kHYyRgy/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bWp3Sg3)
(https://i.ibb.co/88QKPBB/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Of course it comes out in a curly cue shape that has to be straightened out so I draw it between two coarse files pinched together.
(https://i.ibb.co/hCC9MHj/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/dtXpX88/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tzn2nVV)
(https://i.ibb.co/DpBb4yy/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VmFNVZZ)
I am using 0.006" thick sterling for the small cloud. I incise a section and then shape and tap in the wire.
(https://i.ibb.co/Cng60m7/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0fTKJmM)
(https://i.ibb.co/DLJCNdC/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/gjTxM16/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
When working with closely spaced parallel lines or converging lines, I find it is best to incise one section, tap in the wire and then incise the parallel or converging line. The reason is the wire in place acts as a support for the thin wood left in place preventing it from getting chipped out when you incise the second line. After the wire is tapped in place I wet the stock with water to swell the wood and lock the wire in place. Then I dress off the excess height of wire with files and sand paper. If you are using fine silver, which is soft, use care when dressing it off because it can sort of smear creating a fuzzy look. Use fine files and with fine silver, try to file along its length rather than across. I engraved the sun face and permanently attached it to the stock with epoxy and a tiny counter sunk brass screw in the middle. Then I dressed off the screw head and touched up the engraving. Finally, I added the brass wire sun rays, cleaned it up and it was done.
(https://i.ibb.co/D4SymRD/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gyBpQRM)
dave
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"When working with closely spaced parallel lines or converging lines, I find it is best to incise one section, tap in the wire and then incise the parallel or converging line. The reason is the wire in place acts as a support for the thin wood left in place preventing it from getting chipped out when you incise the second line."
Exactly what Mark Silver told me.
I really like the sun and clouds. That came out really nice.
God Bless, Marc
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Wow, I’m really enjoying this thread. Beautiful work.
Bob
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Dave, you continue to amaze with your work and artistic creativity. Can't wait to see the finished gun.
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Hi,
Finished the wire work on the cheek piece side. I added some fine silver wire to thicken the front edges of the small cloud, which gives it a little more mass and a bright edge reflecting sunlight. I more or less copied a Moravian star on one of Christian Oerter's rifles but did it in wire rather than solid silver. The wire matches his engraving. I am going to put some wire on the patch box side, then finish all the carving. Since the owner lives in Florida, maybe I'll do a hurricane scene, or the Little Mermaid from Disney World, or some old guy playing golf. ;D After that, stain.
(https://i.ibb.co/SPQMFD7/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CzJYRps)
dave
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Fearless. Very cool design.
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smart dog that is one great looking rifle, great craftsmanship!
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Dave you are truly an artist, a Master.
Tim
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Hi,
Thanks guys. This is fun!
dave
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Dave, really enjoying being with you on this trip. Your work is quite inspiring to all of us.
I had been wondering why I had a bunch of 22-ga fine silver wire, and now I know. By combining the thicker wire with the fine ribbon, you create a great illusion of depth.
Keep going , Mr. Artist!
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Nice work Dave,
I was wondering about the special pliers for bending different radii. Are those commercially available or are they altered from other available pliers?
Also can you show another view of the flush cut kippers?
Thanks
Jeff
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Hi,
Jeff, here are some photos of the flush clippers.
(https://i.ibb.co/xGqfMVX/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/L6dJC4Y)
(https://i.ibb.co/qmQT3VT/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wpm5Fj5)
(https://i.ibb.co/fSZ7PY8/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/g7YgVn3/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I bought them from Rio Grande jewelry supply. They work extremely well as long as you keep them sharp. The flat face ca be honed on stones or diamond laps and the angled facets inside can sharpened with small stones. I do not use them for anything other than trimming wire inlay. They make that job much easier.
dave
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Hi,
I had a great day doing folk art. I love the naïve nature of good folk art but I don't like crude. Crude has no appeal to me whatsoever and good folk art is not crude. I inlet a brass "comet face" in the tip of the patch box lid. It was a challenge because the lid is thin and fragile at that point. It just took scary sharp tools, a light touch, and patience. I glued it in place but also riveted it with a tiny brass wood screw. I drill the hole just large enough so the wood screw threads into the metal inlay. I counter sunk both sides of the hole and peened the end of the wood screw into the counter sink in the brass inlay. I engraved the comet face with a simple folk art depiction of a face. Then I inlayed silver and brass wire to create the fiery trail of the comet. I am beginning to carve the details in the carving on the patch box. The design is Moravian inspired and owes a lot to a rifle by Allen Martin. When starting to carve details on a rifle, I always start with the wood patch box lid if it has one. Sometimes I get rusty in my skills because of the long intervals between carving on guns so I figure if I forget stuff or am rusty, I can always make a new wooden lid if I screw it up. Fixing mistakes on the stock is much more difficult.
(https://i.ibb.co/9pqCNX7/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3T0L7Xn)
(https://i.ibb.co/gytW8NM/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4W4SLzZ)
(https://i.ibb.co/KL7fhYG/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gtk8pXJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/nQH5pNx/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CVkTL3R)
dave
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I couldn't even think my way through a motif like you are using much less execute it. Wonderful design, planning and work.
Tim
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Hi and thanks Tim,
Remember, Halley's comet made a big showing in 1759 and was a major topic of conversation. My idea for this and the folk art on the other side is the English influence on many Virginia guns. Kibler's gun has an English lock and looks a little like some other Virginia made guns of the period. English makers during the mid 18th century occasionally decorated their guns with extensive wire inlay that presented really artistic scenes. The books by Neal and Back show several examples. Anyway, I took that idea, translated it into folk art and made it happen. It is so much fun.
dave
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Thanks Dave for the pix of the nippers.
Jeff
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Hi,
The carving is mostly detailed although I will go back over things for final cleanup and any further detailing before stain. This has been fun. The stock is mainly good and hard but there are two soft spots that were difficult, right behind the barrel tang and the lower part behind the cheek piece. Each stock has a personality and this one has mostly really good wood but a few really soft spots.
(https://i.ibb.co/J5qn1zf/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ch6Bcnk)
(https://i.ibb.co/FwXcf6C/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0MK1Wqv)
(https://i.ibb.co/0D3NCg4/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dWy9PdC)
(https://i.ibb.co/80sxkH0/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XbL5Hqb)
(https://i.ibb.co/QdVMk3h/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vYWkh6f)
dave
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Here is a tip. Very sharp nippers and other specialty pliers are available from electronics supply houses. We use many of the same tools to build printed circuit boards.
Fred
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Great Job, this is going to be a real beauty. It is nice to see an outside the box rifle every now and then, especially one this well done.
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Hi,
Thanks for looking and commenting. Fred, that was a good suggestion to remember. Thank you. I added wire decoration to the sides of the patch box. I was originally going to do a complete border with some volutes at the base. However, I decided to simplify it but still jazz it up a little in a way that better complements the lid decoration. When I inlay straight borders I first incise a line with a carving knife guided by a straight edge. This assures a "laser" straight line.
(https://i.ibb.co/BTGTRzN/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then I use my longest incise cutter to deepen the line for the wire ribbon using the previous incised line as a guide. This keeps everything very straight.
(https://i.ibb.co/pxR4zfk/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I used 0.013" thick annealed fine wire for the job but I usually prefer hard or half hard wire for this because it resists bending and is easier to keep straight. However, the key is the incised line and if that is straight, the soft wire will follow suit. I just flatten a ribbon of wire by drawing it between 2 files pressed together, cut the length needed and tap it in.
(https://i.ibb.co/8YxSmH5/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I simply file it off flush filing along the wire rather than across and finishing up with sand paper. Then I added 3 silver dots to each end using 22 gauge round silver wire cut as 3/8" nails and tapped into predrilled holes. File and sand flush and I am done.
(https://i.ibb.co/b6dCfXq/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0nJ6wr8)
dave
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Hi,
I just finished a delightful day of finish work on the rifle and adding the last wire inlay (I think). I added a twisting tendril to the cheek piece carving.
(https://i.ibb.co/DYrgh9L/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Then I added accents to the carving on the forward end of the cheek piece. For this design, I used double wire above the carved volutes and anchored in the cheek piece to simulate a thick stem that dives under the carving. Then single wire diverging from under the carving into a volute and tendril. It adds a lot to the carving.
(https://i.ibb.co/L06LQmv/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jc2fxVC)
On the patch box side, I added the wire border to the lid that I posted previously and then a few accent tendrils to the wrist carving.
(https://i.ibb.co/Qd5Rm5X/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wsvX6vY)
(https://i.ibb.co/ph7YPM1/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2Z9G6CF)
I believe it all fits together nicely. I don't find wire inlay to be very hard but it does require patience and good procedure. It really does not require tool skills like carving does. However, it is all about design and your ability to draw that design on the gun. Moreover, like incised carving, it is hard to fix mistakes in the incised lines. A single ribbon of silver or brass wire is a very subtle decoration and often gets lost unless it has other wire near and around it. I am sure many of you start learning to do it tentatively, as I did, a single short strand of wire here, another there, and those single accent wires usually get lost and look like they were not really planned. Often they look like poor lost orphans. Learn to wire inlay well, it is not hard but first learn to draw. Practice on scrap wood. A really good exercise is to make a little tablet with your name done in wire inlay. It is a fantastic practice and you can make something decorative for your family. Practice straight lines, volutes and scrolls and learn to combine wire into decoration that shows up and makes a statement. They certainly did that in Europe but Oerter, Rupp, and others did it very well in America. Tomorrow, I do the incised carving under the cheek piece and final finish details. Then stain.
dave
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If I was ur client, Id be chomping at the bit to get this beauty. I hope he sees this and is following along. The extra effort by you to document with pics and explaining everything is awesome. Thank you.
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David,
Just another example of what a marvelous canvas this Kibler rifle can be for any level of decoration from none to the exceptional version you are creating here. Outstanding work.
Dave C
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Hi,
Thank you Dave! I think we both know how to paint on this Kibler canvas. It requires some finesse and skill. I wanted to show a little more work I did today, I have to put the gun aside for a couple of days to work on a paper. I incised carved a design similar to the Edward Marshal rifle below the cheek piece. However I wanted to modify it it a bit so I checkered the triangular area under the cheek piece and added dots to each diamond. Notice how the dots add mass to the design balancing out the mass of the Moravian star. It is a simple technique but one worth remembering.
(https://i.ibb.co/BcTVhG7/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rF5GB3L)
dave
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Hi,
Had a very good productive day, although only a small portion was devoted to gun building. I was working on a scientific paper that gets my thinking cap going in a different direction. First, I thought I would show you a cloud picture I took this month that was the inspiration for the wire work behind the cheek piece. This is what got me thinking and designing the clouds. I translated that feeling from this image into folk art:
(https://i.ibb.co/HtdWkkD/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I mostly finished detailing the carving around the rear ramrod pipe. I will come back and clean it up a little more and add a detail or so later.
(https://i.ibb.co/09G149D/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GM5GYMx)
(https://i.ibb.co/pQrs0Y9/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
I scraped and sanded the fore stock to final finish but I decided to add a double line border to the ramrod channel molding. This is a very simple device but it adds a great deal of sophistication to the molding. I start by using a Gunline 60 degree parallel line cutter to scribe the line.
(https://i.ibb.co/ysyFxn9/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vzP4MxF)
(https://i.ibb.co/NWTs14W/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BTnt41T)
Then I deepen the line with a Gunline 60 degree single line cutter after which I widen it a bit with a Dembart 90 degree border tool.
(https://i.ibb.co/bRPXYMM/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z1Vxvpp)
The result is a really nice border that enhances the fore stock molding greatly.
(https://i.ibb.co/S608r98/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6LZJ8Z)
(https://i.ibb.co/1sR9dF7/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4s4jYhK)
Simple borders like this dress up any stock and any engraving. They are worth learning to do well and if you never do anything more complicated, you will accomplish a lot by just learning to do simple borders.
dave
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Hi,
I finished up the carving and did final scraping and clean up before stain. It is very important to shine a single source light on the stock at low angles to show up the rough spots and imperfections. This is critical with light colored woods like maple and cherry. You will always find spots that you thought were fine that still have rough areas or depressions and scratches. I used 220 grit sandpaper, a carpet scraper blade and scary sharp skew chisels to clean up. I also added a few decorative details to highlight some features and fill in other blank spaces. I added a double line border to the fore arm along with 3 dots, a bit like the wire inlay around the patch box. I added a cross hatched area at the base of the rear ramrod pipe tang, and a few decorative "V" shaped notches here and there.
(https://i.ibb.co/Sw76V3G/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Ldh09ZH)
I also tested stains on some scrap curly maple. The last task was to use my flat checkering single cutter and small "V" chisels to go around the edges of the carving and cut very slight incising. That will make the carving pop. Also, I fully expect that I will go back after staining and find a few places needing clean up. I'll clean them up, touch up the stain and then go on to the finish. One disadvantage to the Kibler kit is you don't have any scrap wood from the stock to test stains. You can use the barrel channel or the inside of the patch box cavity but it is not the same as having a large piece of stock to work with. I have a lot of good hard curly maple scraps and decided to use those realizing that the Kibler stock may perform slightly differently, slightly I hope.
I mostly use ferric nitrate crystals purchased online from the Science Company and dissolved in water as my stain for maple. This creates the same chemical solution as what most of you know as "aqua fortis". Actually, aqua fortis is simply the ancient name for nitric acid (loud water) but most of you think of it as a stain made from iron dissolved in the acid. Ferric nitrate and water create the same liquid but with much less acidity and it usually works great on woods such as maple and birch. I used a weak solution of 1 part ferric nitrate crystals to 12 parts water by volume. However on test wood it was not as orangey red as I wanted. I wanted to boost the red without significantly darkening the color, which tends to happen if I simply increase the concentration of ferric nitrate. What works in that case is I add a few squirts of 10% nitric acid solution (purchased with no problems online from the Science Company) to the ferric nitrate stain and a little bit of steel wool. I let it sit overnight and paint the stock the next day. This usually gives me a redder color but does not darken the browns that much. I am not sure why it works differently than simply increasing the concentration of ferric nitrate but it does. I paint the stock with the stain, let it dry thoroughly, and then blush it with a heat gun. The stain dries to an ugly gray color but when blushed with a heat gun or propane torch, it turns a nice reddish brown. After blushing, I neutralize the acid by painting the stock with lye mixed in water. This not only neutralizes the acidity but turns the color more reddish.
(https://i.ibb.co/SfxZnby/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J3dS7Vt)
(https://i.ibb.co/NT2wYRT/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Drf3Kdr)
(https://i.ibb.co/jRzqsf5/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2NSRHh6)
The result was almost there but I wanted still a little more orangey red. So I mixed a weak stain from recorcin brown, scarlet, and orange aniline dyes dissolved in water. I tested it on scrap wood and finally got exactly what I wanted. Subsequently I painted the stock. I think it is going to look really good.
(https://i.ibb.co/zh2Tkfh/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QFH35mF)
(https://i.ibb.co/t3yrPdT/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/stLYJBd)
(https://i.ibb.co/NF4GDcp/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JchS6D2)
I will inspect the stock closely, then put the gun together again to make sure everything fits as it should, then take it apart and put finish on . I may wait a few days until we have warm dry weather so I can put the stock outside in the sun.
dave
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Coming along great. I can see you’re really enjoying being able to focus on the creative aspects.
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Dave,
It's fun to watch a grand maker like you create something beautiful!
John
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Thank you for your time doing this. It takes a lot of time to explain everything and type it all up. Great job all around. Cant wait to see it finished.
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Hi Keith and thank you. Yes it does take time to write all this up but much more time is spent on making and posting the photos. I have a fairly efficient process but each post takes some time to do.
dave
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Very nice work, Dave. I like your sharing of your inspiration cloud photos. That makes total sense, and it ties the gun to the natural world we live in.
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I believe this has been one of the most enjoyable posts I’ve seen yet! Your logic and explanations are beautifully expressed and simple to digest. You’ve turned this plain kit gun into a masterpiece. Thank you for sharing your project.
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Hi,
Thank you all for your comments, encouragement, and interest. I appreciate it very much. Exciting day! The first coat of finish is always a milestone. Does the color come out the way you intended? Well, it did. The bright directional light does not show it off very well but I think you can get a sense of what the stock will look like.
(https://i.ibb.co/wJtmVPh/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mvpWk25)
(https://i.ibb.co/d50fFSX/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0GjnTk1)
(https://i.ibb.co/zVwqFPJ/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chd4w2L)
dave
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That one ought to be pretty pleased with itself.
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Beautiful!
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Any more pics of the completed and finished gun?
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That's a Beautiful Rifle!!!
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Hi and thanks folks,
Keith, no new photos for a while unless you want to see images of finish drying, kind of like watching grass grow or paint dry. I did add some bone black shading and engraved my name and shop on the barrel.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/gdSj4Wh/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hcB7Ydw)
(https://i.ibb.co/9WXQJQ9/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cQ54P4c)
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Your work on the rifle looks fantastic. Love the inlays and wood finish.
I find it very interesting from a creative point of view how versatile Jim's kit is for people to personalize the rifle and end up with a very attractive unique piece.
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Well done and very attractive. I really like seeing someone take one of the Kibler kits and customizing it this way. It really shows the potential of one of the kits.
Ken
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Dave,
I have been watching you for the whole build. Really nice job of building, and just as important , great teaching job as well. No need for me to comment any more every one else has said it all. Looking forward to seeing you again soon.
David Price
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Golly, Dave, when I grow up, I'd like to be just like you. ;D
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Golly, Dave, when I grow up, I'd like to be just like you. ;D
Hi Tom,
No you don't, I f@rt a lot.
dave
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Hi Dave,
It is so good to hear from you, thanks. I hope all is well in Contoocook. Pretty soon we are going to welcome another good maker to Vermont and New England, Rich Pierce. He won't be too far from you. Take care and stay safe.
dave
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Hi Folks,
I meant to mention something previously and forgot. A common apprehension expressed in posts on the forum is the author is not an artist. Art is really not that mysterious and it can be guided by some easily understood rules and guidelines. Think of the "golden mean" for example or rules of perspective and proportion. On this rifle I applied a guide I often use for some of the wire inlay. Look at the wire attached to the carving in the photos below.
(https://i.ibb.co/RDjzH79/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FDHg7nK)
(https://i.ibb.co/kQmT7fp/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5rFJyN)
Note that I often use 2 strands, one that tends to conform to the carving, and one that goes its own way. It is kind of a "ying yang" thing, order versus chaos, and it draws your eye. Now look at the wire wrapping around the carving to the rear of the cheek piece. It starts out kind of conforming to the carving by weaving along it and then at the bottom, it disconnects and curls upward and out, opposite the direction of the carving. Again, kind of an order versus chaos thing. Too much order is not emotionally inspiring and too much chaos is incoherent. A nice mix of both is very appealing. That tug of war between order and disorder, and symmetry and asymmetry is one of the secrets to rococo design.
dave
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Well Dave, Im sure u could make paint drying and grass growing very interesting. Just amazing.
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Excellent work... true Masterpiece indeed...
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Extraordinary artistry. How lucky to have Dave show step-by-step the process he takes in this rifle!
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Hi,
Well it is done. It took a while to finish because of the high humidity and there was a section of wood on top of the comb that would not stop whiskering. I finally put on a coat of finish and when it dried, I burnished down the wood with an antler tip. That did the job. Then I had another bizarre thing happen. The finish was almost done and I was testing the ramrod fit. I pulled the rod out and on the end was an angry wasp that stung me. I bobbled the stock in my surprise and put some small dents in it. It must have crawled in the ramrod hole looking for a cozy place. Anyway, the dents all steamed out nicely, thankfully. I polished all the brass and tarnished it a little with instant bluing. I did the same with the lock and barrel. I also cut teeth in the jaws of the flint cock. I case hardened the trigger and temper blued it as well as the trigger plate and all the bolt and screw heads that show on the outside. Tapered the ramrod a little and even turned the steel ferrule down to a slightly smaller diameter. I was very concerned that the close fit of the rod would swell in place on any humid day and since this rifle goes to Florida, that is a major consideration. I installed a taller rear sight because the owner is tall and it gives him just a little more drop at heel from the line of sight. The original low sight still fits so the owner can choose either one that suits. I'll let the finish cure for a few more days and the shoot the rifle to test it. After that, pack it up and ship it off. Hope you enjoy the photos.
dave
(https://i.ibb.co/7JYCJjM/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y7RQ7Pn)
(https://i.ibb.co/mHD80J4/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wK0s7y4)
(https://i.ibb.co/xLW4GJ8/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/B3b1jqK)
(https://i.ibb.co/GvzvXq5/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KjTjYJr)
(https://i.ibb.co/JBhcdjW/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/r7WQt2K)
(https://i.ibb.co/2gFj7b3/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V2LvWKY)
(https://i.ibb.co/0XBcDd0/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JdxKBMY)
(https://i.ibb.co/5hDKKPw/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N2hTTMb)
(https://i.ibb.co/3pVGCHp/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7nB81Fn)
(https://i.ibb.co/k5fHpwz/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hLj7k4r)
(https://i.ibb.co/z8j84rT/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/db1b5rw)
(https://i.ibb.co/tZGRZmD/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RhF8hvc)
(https://i.ibb.co/2sGCM0Z/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k9NwDVm)
(https://i.ibb.co/bPC8k6q/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/W6MYLHq)
(https://i.ibb.co/rdWQJmF/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XYwWTbj)
(https://i.ibb.co/TRZ5QBV/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7VHF3Jw)
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Love seeing your craftsmanship! Thanks again for taking us along for the ride!
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Just a beautiful rifle. And congrats to the owner, too.
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Bet there’s one excited customer!
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Evidently the Kibler Colonial is an excellent "platform" for your embellishments which are always top notch .....judging from this LR, you no longer have to start w/ a blank?.....Fred
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Very nice work, Dave. I really enjoyed your explanations of each step.
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Dave, that is outstanding. The way you shaded the finish in the butt panel rear of the cheekpiece and integrated the wire clouds makes it look real. Someone is going to be very happy indeed.
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I wasn't totally sure about that wire work until you finished it. Looks super. I like it sir.
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Everything just POPs when u look at it. Thank u for the ride.
Keith
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That is indeed one sweet looking rifle........and great photography by the way.
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Well that's a stunner! Thanks for the tutorial along the course of the build also :)
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Dave you have done a spectacular job on "the Kit"
an I mean that in a good way.
Your workmanship is on par with the best !
Oldtravler
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Nice! Very creative use of wire. I think I like the tasteful little bits that accent the carving and line the edges for wood box as much as the more dramatic “scenes.”
Good job,
Jeff
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Dave,
There are a lot of people today who can glance at an antique rifle and the first words that emerge from their minds is "Beck" or "Dickert" or "Rupp". In the years to come ,a glance at one of your rifles will bring the word "Smart Dog" front and center. Your innovative wire work is brilliant.
Clint
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BRAVO! A resounding bravo Dave. Outstanding.
TC
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Absolutely fantastic build!
Quick question regarding bone black... If you have a rifle that is already finished, is it possible to detail with bone black over top of the existing finish, or would one need to put additional finish coats on to "lock in" the bone black?
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Hi,
Thank you all for looking and commenting. I appreciate the moral support!!
Fred, I think one Kibler colonial is enough for a while. It is a great kit but I prefer to build my own. I need to do my own thing a bit more.
Macs69, you can put bone black over finish but you still need a top coat to lock it in. I usually put on 2 coats of finish before using any bone black and then a couple coats on top after I am done with the blacking. I am still finding my way with it.
I want to mention a few points that may help those who choose to build these kits. Make sure you remember to file the pin holes in the barrel lugs into oval slots to allow the stock to move with humidity. Case in point, when I fitted the forward pin a few days ago, the stock had moved so much from a change in humidity that the hole no longer lined up. All the other holes were OK but I still filed them into short slots. The forward lug needed a pretty long oval slot to pass the pin. Make sure you sand the ramrod enough that it does not jam with humidity. The same goes for the patch box lid. If I had left the precise fit that came with the kit, it would long ago have been swelled in place by humidity. File a little extra space in the hole in the breech plug for the rear lock bolt. Make sure the bolt fits through it and rattles a bit in the hole. Having learned this the hard way, a precise fit of that bolt through the plug bolster could result in it acting like a jack hammer against the stock during recoil. A little slop in the hole will prevent that. If you decide to alter the stock as I did, keep in mind that Jim's well and precisely engineered kit is a system such that if you change one thing you are bound to find you need to change several other connected things. I urge folks just starting out to build the gun as Jim designed it with respect to the architecture. By all means add cosmetic flourishes all you want but leave the basic architecture alone unless you know what you are doing. With respect to embellishments, I strongly urge you to do some, even simple ones. In my opinion, the basic stock desperately needs moldings along the ramrod channel, lower butt stock moldings, the end of the cheek piece reduced in size and shaped a bit with perhaps a decorative line or two, some decoration on the patch box lid, and lock and side panel moldings. Just those simple features will enhance the rifle a lot particularly if you choose very monochrome wood like black walnut and cherry. Finally, the finished rifle with its 43.25" 54 caliber barrel weighs 8lbs 12oz. My Star of Bethlehem rifle with its big 41" D weight 62 caliber barrel weighs 9lbs but is better balanced and the weight is barely noticed. This 54 caliber Kibler is a bit muzzle heavy for me and I suspect the 58 caliber version would be quite a bit better balanced. Regardless, the kit was a lot of fun and is an awesome achievement by Kibler & Company.
dave
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Hi Dave,
What a beautiful rifle! Your inlays and design is amazing. I am in the process of my own vacation building my first Flintlock which is also the Kibler Colonial rifle. I have no experience with carving at all but I am going to try to at least add the toe moulding and forearm moulding like you suggested. My question has to do with your finish. What did you use on your barrel? I ordered barrel brown to use but I don't want it to look that brown I think. I love the color of yours and that is more of what I had in mind. Do you mind sharing what you did?
Thanks
Bill
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Beautiful work, Dave. Thanks for sharing the trip with us.
Bob
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Dave , Your use of some familiar forms as well as , your own , combined with your execution in various media . Has produced a rifle that has a nice flow and balance to the decorative embellishment! It looks as if it could have been pictured in one of Shumways books or Kindigs , and been right at home. I don`t know if it was intentional or not but, I get a Lehigh feeling from the piece. Possibly some of the decorative elements? I really like it and , find it an interesting and refreshing twist on decorating the Kibler offering. Nicely done! Thanks for sharing!
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Great work, a very nice job and another example of what can be created with the platform that Jim has provided. Thanks for sharing this rifle with us.
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Dave, congratulations on this achievement, and again, thanks so much for taking us along on your journey. The rifle is many cuts above the sum of its parts. Very tastefully executed, and a joy to behold!! Kindest regards, Taylor.
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Dave ,this truly beautiful and inspirational work. I especially like the silver work around the patchbox and it’s forward portion. The execution of the cloud experience really shows well. Congratulations well done!
Cheers Richard
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Beautiful work! Thank you for the tips on cleaning up carvings. I've got some rifflers, but only used them on steel.
Best regards
Rolf
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Dave,
Another piece of high artistry! You did a beautiful job with the “kit” just being a jumping of place to start your embellishment and grand design. I love the way you used the wire to complement the carving design. Thank you for all the tips you shared and you particularly emphasize the need to “oblong” the barrel pin holes to accommodate the pins shifting with humidity changes. Thank you for sharing your work, artistry and building expertise with all of us on the forum.
elkhorne
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Besides riflers I use these...backing is balsa with Scotch double sided tape and different grades of paper. I use a belt sander to shape as needed and the soft balsa dos not ding or mar the wood carving
(https://i.ibb.co/ngxJw3q/DE854106-5-F0-B-4593-8-F85-E90272-BB138-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YRHsND4)
(https://i.ibb.co/Mk6cGhz/EBBDBA0-D-3-AD0-4-D01-B269-0-A455-D85-DD61.jpg) (https://ibb.co/60BH1ZK)
Cheers Richard
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Hi,
Thank you all for your comments. This is an old thread but I am glad folks still enjoy it. Bill, the barrel finish is just instant Super Blue rubbed back. I degrease the barrel, then swab on the bluing as evenly as I can. Once it all turns dark blue-black, I begin rubbing it back with green or maroon Scotch Bright pads. I just keep rubbing back until I get the level of "tarnish" I desire. Then I wipe the barrel with oil and rub it "dry" with a rag. Finally, I put a coat of Renaissance wax on it and am done. I believe Jim Kibler posted a video on You Tube showing how he finishes his barrels.
Hi Richard,
I use sanding sticks like that as well. They are very useful.
Hi Rolf,
I like the rifflers for carving. I often have to go back and smooth curves because the neurological damage in my fingers sometimes makes it tough to cut smooth curves out right. So I have to go back over them with the rifflers, which I find easier to use for that purpose than chisels. Fortunately, with engraving metal, the control of the hand graver is from my palm, not fingers and that helps a lot. I am very slow when I use a hammer and chisel graver, which is one reason I use a Lindsay Airgraver for any detail work when engraving.
dave
dave
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Thanks for sharing the pics from start to finish. What a gorgeous rifle!