AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Martin S. on December 29, 2021, 06:25:14 AM
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I searched the threads, but most were related to finishing oil.
I am interested in what oil to put on a rifle that will sit in the safe for six months to a year.
Yes, I have a thing in my safe to remove moisture, so I have that covered.
I know how to clean a gun, so I am ok there.
Just looking for the best long term oil.
Thank you, and I wish everyone a happy and safe new year.
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One of the best and most comprehensive tests of gun care and other commercial products for rust prevention, etc. Long but very informative.
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Bottom line, out of 46 products EXTENSIVELY tested , Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist come out at the very top. I do not use Frog Lube on the internals of any of my modern guns but do use it to wipe down all my muzzleloaders. It's mostly coconut oil...but smells nice. If you read through the above post, it eliminates a lot of the advertising hype and gets down to what works and what doesn't.
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Excellent, thanks Dave!
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Get the bore completely dry and clean, and I have found RIG Gun Grease to prevent any rust in the bore. I check all guns every 6 months or so and no corrosion.
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I "bought into the hype" around WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor... I watched/read several "torture" tests where it ranked high and thought I'd give it a go.
Not only did I still get light rust... but make absolutely, darn sure, 100% certain that you remove every trace of it from your bore before you shoot the gun. It will leave a baked-on crud ring like you wouldn't believe.
I went back to using olive oil. It isn't the best oil... I still have to do my due diligence of checking the bore and applying oil every so often... But if I leave traces of it in the bore I don't have to scrub out baked asphalt.
It might defeat corrosion better in a safe with a dehumidifier... So your mileage may vary in that regard.
Just a heads up.
Mike
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I use Fluid Film and G96 and have had great protection with both.
I also use Renaissance Wax Polish on the stocks occasionally and really like it as well.
Fleener
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Best is always relative around here (maybe everywhere). Enjoy the choices, there will be many. I'm not "fixed" on any one thing yet.
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The Amish sell a product for protecting their fine wood pieces. It is a combination of pure lemon oil and beeswax. Works great in fact if I know I am going to be shooting in the rain I will wipe some on the entire gun (barrel and metal parts to) 15 minutes wipe off and water literally beads off the gun like a fresh wax job on the 'ol Pontiac!
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Don’t know if it’s the “best” but plain ole 3-1 oil has worked well for me for 10 years inside and out of my black powder rifles . Dad used whatever oil he had sitting on the shelf at the time When watching him as a kid clean his rifle after deer season .
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Martin S; Sir, I purchased a case of 50 each 2 oz. WW-2 oil, lubricating preservative, light oil. Made by Standard Oil Company New Jersey U.S.A. Many Years, back when, ago. Never used anything else. Never a problem one. Have a great News Day and a productive 2022 year. AJ.
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Get the bore completely dry and clean, and I have found RIG Gun Grease to prevent any rust in the bore. I check all guns every 6 months or so and no corrosion.
I agree, RIG really works for long term storage. Tried and true! ;D
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Whatever I have laying around — ballistol, olive oil, a little orange bottle of some kind of oil, grease
— never noticed any difference in the results regardless of what I use.
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MUCH depends on the relative humidity in your area, with what works and what doesn't.
Here, my rifles get a WD40 flush after drying them with patches, then the excess WD40 is blasted out the nipple seat or vent and the outside wiped down with that patch
or a larger WD40 sprayed patch when using the small bore rifle. All my jags are sized so a doubled flannelette patch is used.
Result, if no rust - here.
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I have also had good luck with WD40 in both humid and dry climates. It is a good idea to check the bores of your guns periodically and make sure all is well. That can be good therapy if you are enduring a hard winter.
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MUCH depends on the relative humidity in your area, with what works and what doesn't.
Here, my rifles get a WD40 flush after drying them with patches, then the excess WD40 is blasted out the nipple seat or vent and the outside wiped down with that patch
or a larger WD40 sprayed patch when using the small bore rifle. All my jags are sized so a doubled flannelette patch is used.
Result, if no rust - here.
Ditto
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A RIG’s grease works wonders.
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AGREED - RIG is one of the best, for longggggg term storage. :)
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Martin S; Sir, I purchased a case of 50 each 2 oz. WW-2 oil, lubricating preservative, light oil. Made by Standard Oil Company New Jersey U.S.A. Many Years, back when, ago. Never used anything else. Never a problem one. Have a great News Day and a productive 2022 year. AJ.
My dad worked for Esso Eastern most of his life, before they cut nearly the entire company around the 1986 oil industry crash. His first position was in the oil refinery in Linden, NJ.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, I'll give a few of them a try. Leaning towards the RIG and the Frog Lube.
I've got some Renaissance Wax somewhere, I'll try it on my stocks.
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Any good gun oil. I lean towards Hoppes products.
I would never put food-based oils or lard, or anything like that on my centerfire guns, would never use it on the black powder guns either.
Gun oils and lubes are for guns, food-based oils are for cooking. Probably going to ruffle some feathers on that stance, but there it is!
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My home is effectively climate controlled to the point that I can leave any of my guns oil free and not get rust. My expensive tools at work are another story all together. Think hot and humid in the summer, and barely above 60* in the winter. Ballistol keeps everything rust free and it never polymerizes to a hard goo. Keeps my hands from chapping as well.
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There are lots of preservatives available that will work to prevent rust; but it's wise to choose one that's a good match for your particular weather. Yes, at the top is Rig grease, but I consider it more as a "stored-away" preservative in the same class as cosmoline. My guns rarely go more than a few weeks without me checking/tinkering and doing maintenance on them, so my choices might not be sufficient for your needs.
My take is somewhat controversial. I've used WD40, 3-1 oil, several gun oils, etc in the past with excellent results. But for quite a few years I've settled on Barricade or BreakFree CLP for use in the bore. I occasionally wax the stock but I always wipe the lock, stock and barrel with a cloth dampened with TYPE F Tranny fluid. Type F is very waxy and protects the stock finish and all exterior metal. I've been using it for 20 years and it keeps the wood AND metal protected.
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There are lots of preservatives available that will work to prevent rust; but it's wise to choose one that's a good match for your particular weather. Yes, at the top is Rig grease, but I consider it more as a "stored-away" preservative in the same class as cosmoline. My guns rarely go more than a few weeks without me checking/tinkering and doing maintenance on them, so my choices might not be sufficient for your needs.
My take is somewhat controversial. I've used WD40, 3-1 oil, several gun oils, etc in the past with excellent results. But for quite a few years I've settled on Barricade or BreakFree CLP for use in the bore. I occasionally wax the stock but I always wipe the lock, stock and barrel with a cloth dampened with TYPE F Tranny fluid. Type F is very waxy and protects the stock finish and all exterior metal. I've been using it for 20 years and it keeps the wood AND metal protected.
I do about exactly the same except spray a quick shot of barricade in the drum area on percussion guns because it’s hard to get to. Bores get wiped with type F transmission fluid. It has anti corrosion properties. RIG is for very long term storage, I would hate to clean it out every time I wanted to shoot it. In all honesty any decent lite machine oil will work fine.
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This guy does some pretty good testing videos. This isn't square on point, but the first one I found that's nearly on point. Also is very informative, and for this crowd-some finishing ideas. ;D
The title is actually "Do Penetrating Oils Block Rust" not the thumbnail caption.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoijjWUGU2Q
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I've always used just plain old CLP or Mobil 1 synthetic for pretty much any oiling needs on any gun: flintlocks or not-to-be-mentioned guns that like to run wet. Never had a problem here even in the ridiculous humidity of the last few summers.
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That was interesting, Wade. Thanks. WD40 did better than I would have thought.
I think a futher test, with dried WD40 would be necessary.
Surprising, though.
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That was interesting, Wade. Thanks. WD40 did better than I would have thought.
I think a futher test, with dried WD40 would be necessary.
Surprising, though.
Well it's only a test of penetrating oils and not of protective/preservative ones, and not long-term. But the results reflect that-that some products, touted to do both, only do one well. I've watched a bunch of his comparisons since finding him when researching a car part. He keeps the format the same, so when there is a series of videos you can high-speed through most of it.
So I went back and looked at those again (because I forgot the one I wanted to try) and saw that it's lanolin-based. I've been long been a fan of lanolin, so I got a big laugh. I had no idea it was in such products as I've only used it in the pure form and not for rust prevention.
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Break Free Collector.
PD
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Having a hard time recalling the name of the stuff that the military drowns small arms in. It does indeed prevent rust, but you'll play Hobb getting it out of all the nooks and crannies with hot water and your toothbrush. Reacts well to either steam cleaning, auto parts washing station, or pure gasoline. Had to clean a few of them including the suppository gun mounted in the door of a Huey.
Brain keeps saying "Creosote", but I know it's the wrong term. BUT - it will keep your lovely presentation-grade flintlock longrifle free of rust for ages to come.
It eventually comes off your hands, but never off your clothes.
Cosmoline! Knew I would remember sooner or later. Sure have scrubbed enough of it off a few rifles and pistols.
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Having a hard time recalling the name of the stuff that the military drowns small arms in. It does indeed prevent rust, but you'll play Hobb getting it out of all the nooks and crannies with hot water and your toothbrush. Reacts well to either steam cleaning, auto parts washing station, or pure gasoline. Had to clean a few of them including the suppository gun mounted in the door of a Huey.
Brain keeps saying "Creosote", but I know it's the wrong term. BUT - it will keep your lovely presentation-grade flintlock longrifle free of rust for ages to come.
It eventually comes off your hands, but never off your clothes.
Cosmoline, and yes it’s messy.
Bob
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https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1014905735
I've been working on a jar of it for many years. IF you warm the barrel, the Cosmoline melts making it easier to distribute an even thin coat in the bore.
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That was interesting, Wade. Thanks. WD40 did better than I would have thought.
I think a futher test, with dried WD40 would be necessary.
Surprising, though.
Back in my die maintenance and repair days, we would keep our polishing stones in a plastic bowl with WD-40. It worked very well so long as you kept fresh fluid in it. On those long weekends or the yearly shut down, you would return to a bowl of tar. WD-40 works extremely well as a water displacer, and I heartily recommend it for that. I also follow that recommendation with advice to get the WD-40 out as soon as you get the moisture out. I think that is advice I've seen you and your brother give out as well.
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Exactly, Clark, however we do leave a thin coat of it in the bore until the gun is used next. Then, powder poured in and a wet patch seated. When using mink oil in the .32, that first one was
harder going in than the second or the 50th for that matter - no wiping for the duration.
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I forgot I had a surplus can of cosmoline. It's just as messy as pure lanolin, and a heap ton stinkier. But it works.
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As all my flintlocks are shot at least once a month the WD-40 is left in the barrel after the first treatment of WD-40 has done its job as a moisture displacement and wiped out the 2nd light coating of WD-40 just remains in the barrel. Before shooting I wipe the inside of the barrel with a cleaning patch wetted with isopropyl alcohol, followed by a dry cleaning patch. This removes any remnants of the WD-40 and leaves me with a perfectly clean and dry barrel.
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Wild Turkey 101, I been stored for 72 years and ain’t rusted out yet.
Hungry Horse
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Mobil 1
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I assume we're talking about the barrel and not the lock and trigger.
This is what I use and never ever get any rust. use is for the bore and outside of the barrel. It's been torture tested and came out perfect. I'm not pushing it because it's made/sold by a friend. The stuff really works. He also has another version that he added some bear oil to t. I like it for a patch lube.
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f81/20/34/24/45/anti_r11.jpg)
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I've used CLP Break-Free for about 25 years on my guns, regular gun oil for years before that. I started in humid NC and FL, and now I'm in the dry southwest, but never had any rust on any of dozens of guns. If you are storing in a dry house, most oils will work fine. If out in a wet log cabin, it's a little more important to pick a good one. I'd still use CLP then...I don't anticipate having salt water sprayed on my guns for 24 hours like some of the torture tests do. I did hunt in the rain some and none of my CLP protected guns rusted...I'd wipe them off each evening in camp, but they were saturated in steady downpours for hours sometimes.
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I forgot to add. There is one advantage to using your patch lube for rust prevention. There's no need to clean it out before loading. Just one dry patch to remove any excess.
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I never need to clean my bores before loading and firing. I do snap a cap on the cap-lock's nipple, though.
Guns are stored muzzle down so there can NEVER bee any pooling of oil in the breech.
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Some use a petroleum and it needs to cleaned out.
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I used Rig when I was on gov't paid vacation across the Pacific "some" years back. No problems. Break Free is pretty good. It tends to solidify into a grease. I don't use it on moving parts for that reason. I use G-96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol. Been using it since the 1960s. Never had a reason to cuss it even in the Monsoon season while on "vacation".
If you use an oil stand the gun muzzle down over night and let the excess drain out. Better on a paper towel than in the stock.
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I used Rig when I was on gov't paid vacation across the Pacific "some" years back. No problems. Break Free is pretty good. It tends to solidify into a grease. I don't use it on moving parts for that reason. I use G-96 Gun Treatment in the aerosol. Been using it since the 1960s. Never had a reason to cuss it even in the Monsoon season while on "vacation".
If you use an oil stand the gun muzzle down over night and let the excess drain out. Better on a paper towel than in the stock.
The G-96 looks pretty good. Is it safe to spray it on the wooden stock? Will it ruin a finish?
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Yes and no. At least it hasn't harmed any of mine. MyDad used to say 'beware chemicals that smell nice". He was specifially talking about
chemicals like Rapid Tap, that change smell when hot. I still have a can of G96 & even use a bit now and then.
I used it first back in the 70's- seems most everyone in Southern B.C. at the range, used it. Not hard to tell, just sniff the air when someone un-cases their pride and joy (meaning RIFLE).