AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: Jakob on January 14, 2022, 08:49:52 AM
-
I'm still very new at this, so apologies in advance!
I'm going to jump into the deep end and make my first build a Jaeger rifle...or well, at least a Jaeger-like rifle. (Depending on how successful I am).
31" .62 cal swamped barrel, (Rice or Colerain, TBD). I've already put an order in for Chambers round-faced Germanic lock as I think it looks much better than the 'flat'..the rest of the hardware, not decided yet.
However, I'm not quite sure where the best place to get the stock from would be?
Initially I was looking at Pecatonica, but theirs comes with a 36" barrel, which , while they may have existed, doesn't seem quite right.
I then looked at Dunlaps kits, but they only do up to .58 can for their stock pattern.
Muzzleloaderbuildersupply doesn't ship to Canada (I'm in BC) and while getting stuff shipped to Point Roberts, WA and picking it up there is possible, I would like to avoid it. They also don't currently have any .62 cal stock in stock.
I'm not looking for an Ikea set, but I also don't want to start from a blank for my first build and would like the general stock shaped, ramrod drilled and at least the barrel mostly done.
Am I missing other options?.
Ideally, I would like to have the majority of the parts sourced by April/May.
Would it be feasible to take Dunlaps pattern and manually extend it to .62 cal?
I've collected as many references as I could find, I got Shumways book and I got Mike Miller's Jaeger rifle DVD on the way. I got Recreating the American Longrifle and the Gunsmith of Grenville County + various youtube channels and aren't too scared of the build process itself.
I'm sure mistakes will be made, but that's how you learn, right?
-
Just call Pecatonica and tell them what you want. He can inlet that 31" barrel into his Jaeger stock most likely.
-
PM sent
-
Ron Scott, above, makes some of the finest Jaeger rifles these days. He also teaches classes, and provides carving molds, and cast carving furniture. And - some of the very best English Walnut blanks to be found.
-
Another option: Call Dave Keck, he has several stock styles of his own and most if not all of Fred Millers styles to choose from. Just send him the barrel and he will inlet it with RR hole and grove shaped to the style you choose. I think he also sells casting and other parts that you might need. Knob Mt. Muzzleloading I think. Google it.
-
Get the wood from Ron and then follow Smylee's suggestion. Muzzleloaders Builders Supply has plenty of hardware to choose from.
You've got the right lock and sources for barrel.
-
Ron Scott for Walnut Planks.
Most important is that you choose furniture from the correct time period of your rifle.
High baroque stuff does not go well with later high roccoco stuff.
In essence, jaeger rifles where spanning several stylistic periods. That's why it is important to know when the original you style the rifle after was built.
The period of 1730-1750 can be seen as an overlapping period of styles "late late baroque" and " early rococco", but styles were not mixed.
Baroque rifles were generally more elaborate.
Then, there are regional differences. For example Southern German( Bavaria, Wuerrtemberg, Badenia) are known for wooden trigger guards, Austrian, Middle German (Hessia) and Northen German/Dutch. Then of course Franco Germanic styles along the Rhine River. Northern German/Dutch and Franco Germanic used more steel furniture in general.
Stylistically, Czech, Slovakian and other styles were close to the Austrian Styles, becasue they were part of the Austrian-Hungarian Double Kingdom.
-
Ron Scott for Walnut Planks.
Most important is that you choose furniture from the correct time period of your rifle.
High baroque stuff does not go well with later high roccoco stuff.
In essence, jaeger rifles where spanning several stylistic periods. That's why it is important to know when the original you style the rifle after was built.
The period of 1730-1750 can be seen as an overlapping period of styles "late late baroque" and " early rococco", but styles were not mixed.
Baroque rifles were generally more elaborate.
Then, there are regional differences. For example Southern German( Bavaria, Wuerrtemberg, Badenia) are known for wooden trigger guards, Austrian, Middle German (Hessia) and Northen German/Dutch. Then of course Franco Germanic styles along the Rhine River. Northern German/Dutch and Franco Germanic used more steel furniture in general.
Stylistically, Czech, Slovakian and other styles were close to the Austrian Styles, becasue they were part of the Austrian-Hungarian Double Kingdom.
Is that right? ??? I don't think any of this is close to relevant for the OP's current capabilities.
-
Thanks for the tips!.
I actually spoke with Dave Keck this morning and just got off the phone with Ron Scott.
As I told Ron, as much I love the look of his stocks, it would be a shame to sacrifice this on my first one, as mistakes will undoubtedly be made and I hope that this wont be my only build. (But we still had a nice chat!).
Dave Keck would be happy to cut one for me, but looking at at least 3-4 months wait, once I get the stock/barrel to him.
I have yet to speak with Pecatonica, but will definitely give them a call. (I did email them before Christmas, but never heard anything back).
As for style, I think the first will be fairly non-descript and while I was initially enamored by some of the fancy furniture, I'm now leaning more towards simple. Basic moldings, sure, but not a whole lot of decoration until I'm a lot more confident in my skills.
-
There is also Mark Weader at Jack's Mountain Stock Co. who does an excellent job inletting, etc. Ph.(717) 543-5370
And I would recommend a simple military style (Thomas Pistor style) for a first attempt at a Jaeger.
-
Nothing wrong with a 36 in barrel. My original has a 36 in barrel. Colerain copied it so Bill Slusser can make me a copy of the rifle.
-
These are two simpler decorated, but top quality rifles from the same maker:
https://www.hermann-historica.de/en/auctions/lot/id/408495
http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2014/01/german-jaeger-rifle-made-by-haman.html
The Revolutionary War German Contingency Troops came from Ansbach and from Hessia. The form of this triggerguard was obviously quite typical for the region of Middle Frankonia.
The British also got contract military jaeger rifles from this area.
-
http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2014/01/german-jaeger-rifle-made-by-haman.html
I quite like this one, thanks!
-
As far as stock options go, most Jaegers were made using walnut, however some were made out of maple as well as fruitwoods.
-
Best correct option in fruitwood is cherry.
-
Best correct option in fruitwood is cherry.
???
-
Guys, it's his first build as I understand it, KEEP IT SIMPLE and affordable! Stick with black walnut, it is easy to work with, not circasian walnut, maple or cherry.
Jaegers come in all shapes and sizes. Here are three very different one I've built in the past, all .62 cal.
Top is a Military style, middle is a Brandenburg style and bottom is an American re-stock of Jeager parts similar to RCA-19. Food for thought.
(https://i.ibb.co/prDJbc6/DSCN2584.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M5TMZry)
(https://i.ibb.co/CvvXrSK/DSCN2586.jpg) (https://ibb.co/822RhQg)
(https://i.ibb.co/nfvJsqx/DSCN2588-Copy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sQGYvp8)
-
Great examples. The so called twin to rifle 19 in Rifles of Colonial America is a good choice to model a short rifle used here. The Vrooman-owned jaeger is another, and quite short.
Vrooman jaeger here https://www.icollector.com/Important-American-associated-flintlock-Jaeger-rifle-ca-1740-36-overall-with-a-21-1-4-barrel-of_i8788183
Discussion here https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=65104.25
And here https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=65865.0
-
Guys, it's his first build as I understand it, KEEP IT SIMPLE and affordable! Stick with black walnut, it is easy to work with, not circasian walnut, maple or cherry.
Jaegers come in all shapes and sizes. Here are three very different one I've built in the past, all .62 cal.
Top is a Military style, middle is a Brandenburg style and bottom is an American re-stock of Jeager parts similar to RCA-19. Food for thought.
(https://i.ibb.co/prDJbc6/DSCN2584.jpg) (https://ibb.co/M5TMZry)
(https://i.ibb.co/CvvXrSK/DSCN2586.jpg) (https://ibb.co/822RhQg)
(https://i.ibb.co/nfvJsqx/DSCN2588-Copy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sQGYvp8)
Nice assortment of shorties. I like them. I have three short barrels I need to get into some walnut.
-
In that this will be a first build I think Tom's examples would be great. Nice lines and subdued decoration will make for a good learning experience with a very believable shooter.
-
The short Jaeger rifles are called "Stutzen" while a regular length rifle is called "Buechse". The verb "stutzen" means "to shorten or to trim". So a stutzen is a "shortened gun"
The "Stutzen" is generally rifled or smooth and of large caliber. It is the equivalent to a "stopping" rifle. It is generally used in thick forest going after wounded wild boar. The short length is required to point the rifle when the boar attacks.
Still, today there are modern shorter rifles for hunting in the Alps which are called "Bergstutzen"="Mountain Stutzen".
The Stutzen was quite common as a hunting gun. This is a nice pair here. Steel furniture is north-west, trigger guard is middle to northern style.
https://www.hermann-historica.de/de/auctions/lot/id/408491
-
Given that they're from Utrecht, northern style would make sense!.
Jaegers come in all shapes and sizes. Here are three very different one I've built in the past, all .62 cal.
Top is a Military style, middle is a Brandenburg style and bottom is an American re-stock of Jeager parts similar to RCA-19. Food for thought.
Thanks!
I was actually just looking at the Brandenburg styles in Shumways book and that seems like a worthwhile goal to aim for.
I'm originally from Denmark, but have German ancestry, which may be why I'm so attracted to this style of gun.
-
In Shumway's book there are several Danish guns that are very nice.
-
In Shumway's book there are several Danish guns that are very nice.
Yes and way (way!) to elaborate for me to attempt to replicate.
-
Here is a Stutzen in action (on target).
Not really an eleborate one, but a nice and interesting lock.
https://youtu.be/NYn2KK0jSaM
Horseback, yes, but the longer ones to about 30 barrel can be handled on horse,too.
-
Interesting video thanks for sharing. I have to question the need for a set trigger on a rifle that is meant to be used for quick shots off a horse and ranges less than 50 yards.
-
Just in case anyone else is looking for options:
Just spoke to Pecatonica and they can do .62 cal swamped. for me in 31". They don't have the barrel in stock, but I can get one shipped straight to them and they'll take care of it.
Probably my best option, I think. (For what I need)
-
So, having ooh'd and ahh'd a fair bit, talked here and there, studied a lot of pictures, I ended up with the conclusion that I couldn't quite get the stock I wanted in a suitable time frame, so I'm going to plank it.
Well, almost. I'll be buying a piece of wood from Ron Scott, have David Rase inlet the barrel/ramrod and then take it from there. It also keeps it 'local' (Well, Cascadia-local) and makes shipping etc, easier.
It means jumping in deeper than intended, but then that's how I've learned most things and I haven't drowned yet.
Again thanks to Ron for his willingness to share his knowledge.
-
Jakob. Great choice in stock and inletting. Ron Scott is an excellent resource on anything Jaeger. If you PM me with your email I will be happy to send you photos of mine.
-
Trying to sort out the last few pieces.
Given that it's a .62 cal Rice barrel, what size touchhole liner would be appropriate?
Looking at the 1/4-32 White Lightnin'. I assume I wont need finer threads on a barrel that size?
Sorry, I have many questions!.
-
Jakob, It is not the caliber of the bore as much as the size of the breech that determines vent liner size. You want the liner to fit nicely in the barrel flat. I usually use the 1/4 32 liner from Chambers. Even in a larger breech it gives you some room for vertical error in the pan placement. It is a good idea to order the tap and tap drill from Chambers also. They are an odd size and Barbie Chambers' are excellent quality. And you might as well order four or five liners because flintlock building is an addiction, and that particular liner works very well.
-
I like Heinz's good advice to you.
-
That makes sense. Glad I asked! Thanks
-
(https://i.imgur.com/Hl5vQsJh.jpg?1)
Well, there's no going back now!.
Barrel/ramrod has been inlet by Davis Rase, I just have to do the rest!
-
That's how I would do it.
-
Well, I feel like I'm in way over my head, but breaking down the tasks, there's nothing I shouldn't be able to do.
I just have to do it one step at the time!.
Still waiting for mounts/locks and need to prepare my work area.
-
Jakob, take your time and go slow. Avoid power tools. Remember you are separating the rifle from the woo that is "not rifle". And save your scraps. They are useful for small projects and for patches if necessary.
(https://i.ibb.co/48cp8Gd/IMG-0196.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jydDy2R)
(https://i.ibb.co/cDqffCB/IMG-0198.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9sPKKVD)
(https://i.ibb.co/x1zGshh/IMG-0202.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N9Wp3xx)
-
Heinz,
Did you make your bow saw?? and if not, where did you get it? I really like old style hand tools and what I refer to as 'Big Iron'
( the old 2 ton planers, mills and lathes and such !! )
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
-
I got here https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/hand-tools/saws-frame-list-of-all/saw-bow-classic-400mm-turning-style-universal-blade-712968-detail. I also have a smaller original 19th century one.
-
THANKS!!
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
-
I'm not going to attempt to make a copy of a specific gun. Maybe next time..but I will try to stay as close as my skills and resources will allow me, with a few variations.
The base is Ron Scott's very fancy Suhl rifle, which can be seen in detail here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkn6J8yAQeY
I'm still waiting for a few parts, namely my early Germanic Lock from Chambers (still 4-5 weeks to go) and the mounts from Ron (Who's probably more desperate than me to get hold them), but I had to do *something* (and wanted to try my new vise) and cut down the first 1/2" of the breech.
(https://i.imgur.com/gKCceT0l.jpg)
I couldn't really go any deeper without finishing shaping the tang and also cutting the profile from the plank.
I can't, however, determine the profile without the mounts (and lock would be *really* handy too, although I do have a good reference)., but I wanted to get some work done, so I traced the original as best as I could in Adobe Illustrator and then spent several hours tweaking it to both fit the plank, my estimated measurements and keep the spirit of the original.
I can't add as much drop as original (and not sure I would want to)
I'll use this to get a plywood template cut out, which I can then also use to check for fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/MXPKBWkl.jpg)
Original on top, my version at the bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/a4jwKfHl.jpg)
-
Your version should be a better shooter. if you have a gun that fits you you can measure the drop on it to get you in the ballpark.
-
You have far more artistic lee way building German guns! I have always thought it is strange why we in Pennsylvania are so tight A'ed in to building to a particular school.... what does it prove ? ....you can do it! How boring!
The German's built guns based on pure creativity!
Move on!
-
Jakob, the top version of the stock profile looks to be closer to the original rifle than the lower version. As I mentioned by email, the reproduction butt plate will be higher toe to heel, so you can get the butt stock profile to match with a longer trigger pull.
-
When laying out your stock it is very important that you get enough drop at the comb and at the heel. the comb is perhaps the more important measurement. If you don't get enough drop at the comb, your rifle is going to smash your face cheek bone every time you shoot it. How much is enough...my experience with my own face tells me to get at least 1 5/16" drop at the comb. At the heel, around 2 1/2" is ideal for me...I'm 6'2" x 230 pounds. I also like a trigger pull less than 14"...14" is starting to get to be too long for me.
-
It's pretty close.
I cut out the profile from some plywood and printed off a barrel and some sights and put together a mock-up.
(https://i.imgur.com/uI5J0FLm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zCLNPZXm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3JyuFGdm.jpg)
Printed some sights and a few minutes with a rasp to round off the 'comb at the contact point.
(https://i.imgur.com/vMwofbEm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/05vd2DWm.jpg)
I had to take 3/16" off to get it to instantly line up when mounting, but this is not including the cast-off.
Ron, yeah. with the lower heel drop, I had a hard time incorporating the slight curve at the bottom of the stock, without compromising the shape of the wrist. I'm also somewhat limited to what I can fit on the wood, but with adapting it to fit me, that may not be an issue.
-
And I'm finally starting to cut some wood!
Got the profile cut out today:
(https://i.imgur.com/oVyx4QVl.jpg)
That was a terrifying experience. I don't have a bandsaw, so was using one at the local Makerspace and the combination of my inexperience with it and somewhat beaten up guides made this nerve wracking. I ran a practice cut on a chunk of maple first and it actually turned out ok.
However, I'm not sure I'll want to use it to slim down the forestock and will probably do that by hand instead.
Should finish fitting the breechplug/tang this week and then onto the lock:
(https://i.imgur.com/3adAmFnl.jpg?1)
Initial plan was to use an earlier Germanic flintlock from Chambers, but shape would still need some re-work. It then took a fair bit longer for Chambers to get going on these and meanwhile I watched Mike Millers Jaeger rifle DVD and he modifies a Gun Makers kit to make it fit his project.
Since I've already jumped in with both feet, I went "why not" and got hold of one from MBS.
It involves removing the bridle, but it's very well explained so I'm not too worried about it. (famous last word).
Anyway..I'm up and running now. I got (almost) all the parts I need and the remaining bits should turn up in the next couple of weeks.
I'm aiming to have this finished for the BC Rendesvous end of August, which *should * be doable.
-
Thank you for posting your progress. Looking good. Please post more of your work as it progresses. A lot to learn.
I plan to build two left -handed jeagers in the future. I've got the barrels and one stock blank. Plan to make the locks from scratch and have been focusing on learning lock building. Finished four pistol locks and at the moment working on four left handed versions of a Alex Henry lock. I'd like to make a left handed version of the lock offered by Chis Laubach, but I need more practice before I attempt that.
Best regards
Rolf
-
Having finished inletting the tang/breech
(https://i.imgur.com/AszESPsl.jpg)
It's now time to attack the lock.
I've previously worked out a template with Ron Scott
(https://i.imgur.com/q9QRafNl.jpg)
And after an initial test on the front of thelock, I mount it on the back and mark off the outline. This doesn't have to be 100%, just to check for space for the internals
(https://i.imgur.com/a6K6EvE.jpg?1)
Mounted the internals and decided I can shave another 1/8 of the tail.
(https://i.imgur.com/3eiuMdH.jpg?1)
I could probably take more, but this is also very close to the original size.
Then to the fun part. I mount the template on the front with some 3M 77
(https://i.imgur.com/teOchVY.jpg?1)
And then start sawing. I'm reasonable with a jewelers saw, but I've only sawed maybe 18ga silver before, never steel this thick.
I'd bought 2 dozen of size 3 blades, but I could easily have gone size 1...anyway..2 hours and 19 saw blades later.
(https://i.imgur.com/22jWyzz.jpg?1)
It was worth it though. Didn't take much cleanup with a couple files before getting real close to the final profile.
(https://i.imgur.com/eo8iL7s.jpg?1)
I'll finish that when I get fresh eyes on it tomorrow.
-
(https://i.imgur.com/PaAABCf.jpg?1)
Initial reshaping work on the flint cock done. Will probably tweak it a bit later.
Also started on the lock plate itself. Moving really slow, as I don't want to remove too much!
At the end of each session , I like to polish it up to at least 400, so I can get a better sense of how it'll look when done, but today I got a little carried away.
-
Really enjoying this thread ... great work!
-
Lock work is still in progress. (still filing away), but I took a small detour to test something that I think will make a big difference to the final look.
The original has iron mounting with lots of gold inlay. I have brass mounts, but especially as I intent to keep it fairly bright, I was concerned about it looking too yellow...and I wanted to get closer to the original if possible.
I don't have the skills to do inlay and I toyed with the idea of using silver leaf or maybe even keum-bo, but neither will really stand up to be handled and aren't easy to do that precise either. I then started looking at various plating solutions. Most diy solutions were too pricey/complex for a 1-off experiment, but then I found this:
https://goldensolution.co.uk/collections/silver-plating-solution-cyanide-free/products/silver-plating-solution-100ml
Confirmed with the owner that I could use nail varnish for masking and ordered solution + wand (I have bench power supply already).
Experimented on a piece of scrap first to get the voltage right (3.0v in my case, 3.2v was turning it grey) and then masked up the entrypipe, as this would be the easiest to clean up, should it all go wrong.
(https://i.imgur.com/jfO8AwV.jpg)
But..it didn't!
(https://i.imgur.com/FKew1Lh.jpg)
The pictures don't really do it justice, but I'm very happy with this. Need to test durability, etc, but after masking it up, it's literally 5 minutes work, dunk it in acetone and wipe off the mask and done.
The only thing I want to differently next time is to find a less viscous and slower drying nail varnish. I'll probably pop into one of the nearby nail salons and ask...if nothing else, it'll be worth it for the reaction.
Edit:
I should just be able to use basic hobby style enamel paint. It'll have a much better consistency and drying time for this and should be easily removable with acetone too.
-
Did you do the sculpting on this pipe?
-
Hah, I wish. No, it's a casting from Ron Scott.
-
So, with a rather drastic job change and relocation, everything ground to halt a week or so ago and I wont pick it up again until I've found a new place and sorted out some sort of work space. Worst case, I'll make a small bench for the kitchen or something.
Before that, I did make good progress on the lock.
This is what I started with:
(https://i.imgur.com/sNb7Z0Sl.jpg)
And this is where I am now:
(https://i.imgur.com/OPQSyaWl.jpg)
Still some clean-up work to do, but it's close.
If nothing, the move will give me a break from filing and boy, did I need that.
-
Beautiful work :D
-
I've usually found good results with gilding - using 24K gold leaf. You can use the sizing to determine where the gold leaf will stick, and it is reasonably permanent. Supplies are available at most jewelry supply stores. You WILL need a squirrel-hair brush to pick up and place little "scraps" of the gold leaf.
Sizing is the adhesive that the ultra-thin gold adheres to.
-
Any updates to share?
-
I'm *almost* ready to build a new work bench. Hopefully get started on it this weekend. As I'm now in a smaller apartment, this will take some careful planning and I've also lost access to workshops with handy tools (table saws, planer, jointer, etc), so it'll all have to be done with a handsaw and a crappy old plane.
(https://i.imgur.com/84WKp3rl.jpg)
I'll just be using 8x2 construction lumber and probably take me a couple of weeks.
Still debating whether to use normal bench dogs on top, T-tracks or micro-jig tracks.
-
Since a couple of people have recently asked, yes this is still ongoing and slowly creeping towards the finish line.
Working on finalizing the area around wrist/lock/side panels and comb.
Forestock needs a final pass as well, but is pretty close.
Plenty of mistakes were made a long the way, but I think I managed to work my way around most of them.
Still plenty of opportunities to screw this up, but this weekend was a bit of a breakthrough, as I could start to see the final shape of the gun.
Next gun will be a lot simpler!
(https://i.imgur.com/cNcL9Z9l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7pZ7x4zl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G4pebhEl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jkIfrftl.jpg)
-
(https://i.imgur.com/p4UJy5Kl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tHgOhaLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eSdV5G7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b2cUvXRl.jpg)
Slowly getting there. Mostly need to figure out what design to use on the lock/side panels and around the nose of the comb and I can finalize the last bit around the wrist/lock area.
-
Butt plate inletting looks great, top and sides, Jakob.
-
Jakob: do you still need drills and taps for Chambers' White lightning liners? I have a set of all three, ie: 1/4 x 32, 5/16 x 32 and 3/8 x 32 surplus that I'd like to move. Your rifle is coming along nicely, I suspect nicer than you first imagined.
-
No, I got drill/taps, thank you!.
And yes, there's been several times where I thought I'd completely messed it up, but I'm now very happy with how it looks and handles.
Still plenty of opportunities to mess it up, but at least the base is there.
-
I've more or less settled on this type of design and as this is one of the best pictures I got of that style, I'll use that as reference.
(https://i.imgur.com/6V66vbs.jpg)
I use Adobe Illustrator to trace it.
I scale it to fit my tang and width of the stock.
(https://i.imgur.com/JEUZ59u.jpg)
And then print it out for a quick mock-up:
(https://i.imgur.com/NWkUfTkl.jpg)
I'll tweak this to fit better, but I'm happy with that concept and I think I'll be able to pull that off. I will do a practice run or 2 on some scrap walnut.
-
Jakob,
Thanks for the tip about Adobe Illustrator. Jaeger carving is difficult. Enjoying this thread.
Warren
-
Most Germanic carving be it mannerist or later, is not usually exact, and looks better if not Too perfect.
I find I can do less than perfect!
Best,
R.
-
Yes, I'm aware that they're rarely symmetrical and given that the side panels are different shapes, the carvings obviously wont be.
Also, as much as I try, I definitely wont be perfect.
-
I could draw that 100 times before I could learn to use Adobe Illustrator LOL.
-
I've used Illustrator for....30 years? Might as well take advantage of that knowledge!
-
If I had the knowledge, I would use it too!
-
The problem is that I still find it hard to 'draw' on the computer, even with a tablet. I can tweak, modify, etc, but original lines is hard for me. (It's hard enough on paper).
So, I took a picture of the stock, draw the outline in Illustrator (and the still rough cheekrest) and then print out a handful of copies to sketch on.
(https://i.imgur.com/dvQF3Vdl.jpg)
This is probably the basic layout I will go with. (Stuff on the wrist/comb is TBD).
I'm on medevac duty tomorrow, which most likely means sitting in a trailer all day, so I'll bring a stack of copies with me and will develop this further.
-
Jacob,
I might be very wrong, but I'd push the nose of the comb back a bit.
To me it looks a bit choked at present.
I am not sure how many people there are in the world, but my opinion is worth exactly One of them!
You are doing a grand job on your design and layout!
Best,
R.
-
Hi Jakob,
Here is a photo of a nice Suhl style Jaeger that I find extremely good architecture and has some great transitions from the curved edge of the cheek area into the carving . Your proposed tang carving is symmetrical while your sketch of the carving around the check rest looks somewhat Rococo. I'd like to encourage you to enlarge the carving around the check area, it is a bit wispy compared with the boldness of the tang carving.
(https://i.ibb.co/R378nRX/IMG-2496-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qNx6GTH)
-
Hi Ron,
Yes, this is just 'general shapes, but point taken. I am well aware of that Suhl rifle, but I also know that I can't carry out that level of carving to a satisfactory quality and will have to simplify it. I'll post some more when I get closer and would love your feedback again.
Edit:
The tang carving came from this one:
(https://i.imgur.com/7AU5ZzUh.jpg)
and it was more along that level of complexity I had in mind.