AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Black Powder Shooting => Topic started by: Wil on March 15, 2023, 06:03:11 PM
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I've been in this game for a while but my inquiring mind would like to know what your favorite bore dressing is that you use for long term bore protection is against that dreaded rust.
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I use RIG grease. Recommended by Ned Roberts in his book. Never had any rust issues on guns left for years without use.
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Was RIG easy to remove before shooting ? It's pretty thick and I'd be worried if I didn't get it all out.
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For really long term I like LPS-3. It goes on wet and dries like waxy cosmoline.
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After cleaning and drying my gun's barrel, I do a flush with WD40, then patch out the excess from the bore blasting it out the nipple seat or vent, then wipe everything down with that patch and reassemble the gun. I liberally spray my locks all over with WD40 to blast off any residual moisture, then set them aside while doing the bore. After the bore and outside barrel is finished with
I shake the lock off and wipe it down all over, then put it back in the gun.
Any fouling on the gun's stock of course is wiped off. The lock is cleaned in water with a toothbrush, shaken of and laid in the sun while I clean, dry and oil the barrel.
The gun then sits, muzzle down in the lockup until needed again. For long term storage, RIGG is used.
It is easily patched out with doubled flannelette patch on a jag. I like to double the patch (jag turned to allow) as the extra thickness allows even deep grooves & sharp corners of the land/groove
to be properly & well cleaned.
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I definitely second the choice of RIG. It works! I am sure that there are other greases that would work as well or better. And yes, it is a little bit of a bother to clean it out but that bit of difficulty in removing the product is what contributes to its' effectiveness. I used to have a can of a US mil rifle grease (really dark stuff that reminded me of axle grease) and it worked but was even more difficult to clean up. Although I have not used them for storage, I'll bet that some of the new synthetic wheel bearing greases would work a "treat" as the expression goes.
J.B.
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That'a funny about the RIG. I have had a jar of it in my cabinet for probably 25 years or so and haven't considered even using it in the bore of my muzzeloaders.
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I'm using synthetic motor oil these days.
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Wll I would not worry about getting RIG grease out. Use patches with denatured alcohol on them . Ive also sprayed gunscrubber or brake cleaner through my breech of my cap guns. The RIG is a lot easier to remove than rust. There is a lot of good stuff out there to prevent rust. But if I know this gun is not going to be touched for a long while RIG is pretty positive protection.
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I think my arm just got bent enough to where I believe I will try the RIG when I put them to bed for a long time. Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply to my post and adding your experience with RIG.
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I now live in the dry desert, but even when I lived in NC, I just ran an oiled patch down the bore and sometimes left the gun untouched for years. Like when I went in the Navy. Never had any rust. I like CLP breakfree.
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Transmission fluid and power stearing fluid mixed 50/50 is good too.
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That would work quite well, Mike. ;D
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LONG term, RIG. Shorter term, I use CLP or Marvel Mystery Oil. The BPCR guys use that MMO, and it works great in muzzleloaders too. Store muzzle down so you don't get your stock oiled up and punkish.
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How long are you referring to as "long term"?
Most of mine never see more than 60 days without being shot. I use WD40 as the final lube after the barrel has dried. If I was going to store for a longer term simply run a patch with WD40 down every 6 months or so. All the above posts look to me as equally good ideas. Kind of like the forever ongoing patch lube thread. No bad ideas just what works for you.
Happy St. Patrick's day!
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Zackly.
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I used to be a bore butter guy. I don't use it anymore for shooting. I will say that t in the past I've come back to a gun after a year or more and only needed to clean it out of the bore. I also applied it to the lock after heating a little and it coated everything and then dried to a thin paste. A lock could sit that way for long as a lifetime and then be cleaned off and oiled up with something thin to slick things up and likely be as new. Where the fellas are talking about RIG grease is likely pretty similar, but I've not used it. I've been shooting all my guns fairly regular lately so after cleaning I just use a thin oil in the bore and lock and nearly always use Howard's Feed-N-Wax on the wood. I'm a fan. Keeps the wood from drying out-not all stocks are sealed as some are. Often I'll use it on the bores exterior as well.
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I used to be a bore butter guy. I don't use it anymore for shooting. I will say that t in the past I've come back to a gun after a year or more and only needed to clean it out of the bore. I also applied it to the lock after heating a little and it coated everything and then dried to a thin paste. A lock could sit that way for long as a lifetime and then be cleaned off and oiled up with something thin to slick things up and likely be as new. Where the fellas are talking about RIG grease is likely pretty similar, but I've not used it. I've been shooting all my guns fairly regular lately so after cleaning I just use a thin oil in the bore and lock and nearly always use Howard's Feed-N-Wax on the wood. I'm a fan. Keeps the wood from drying out-not all stocks are sealed as some are. Often I'll use it on the bores exterior as well.
If I’m putting one away between hunting season I’ll run a patch heavily laden with Wonder Lube. I warm the lock and wipe down the internals as you described. I also remove the nipple or drum screw and gob some in there as well. My GPR flint has a removable vent liner and I gob some in there as well. A thorough wipe down before pre season shooting has yet to show me any corrosion and we get some humidity in western PA. I’ve had guns stored for up to 3 years with zero rust issues.
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One of the best and most comprehensive tests of gun care and other commercial products for rust prevention, etc. Long but very informative.
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Bottom line, out of 46 products EXTENSIVELY tested , Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist come out at the very top. I do not use Frog Lube on the internals of any of my modern guns but do use it to wipe down all my muzzleloaders. It's mostly coconut oil...but smells nice. If you read through the above post, it eliminates a lot of the advertising hype and gets down to what works and what doesn't.
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Good test .. Actually surprised some of them didnt do better. I have some wd 40 specialist but have not used it much. Maybe I should start. Ive also used Eezox. But have to order it on line I never see it a gun shops or sporting goods suppliers anymore. I might have to rethink my long term storage. I used Rig for a long time including when I lived in Florida. And I am surprised it didnt rank higher. But that did seem like a pretty solid test. But I have seen other salt spray tests where stuff like Barricade and Gunseal scored very high. I am always open to something better for rust protection.
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How long are you referring to as "long term"?
Most of mine never see more than 60 days without being shot. I use WD40 as the final lube after the barrel has dried. If I was going to store for a longer term simply run a patch with WD40 down every 6 months or so. All the above posts look to me as equally good ideas. Kind of like the forever ongoing patch lube thread. No bad ideas just what works for you.
Happy St. Patrick's day!
Some of mine don't see any action between hunting seasons and sometimes life gets in the way when I want to fire off a few of my others. But what really got me worried at all about it was when I ended up with my Dad's muzzeloader after he had passed. My bore scope revealed a heck of a mess, rust and pitted bore. He used Bore Butter for storage. That's all we ever used back when we got into this in the late 70s, early 80's.
And about patch lube threads...guilty! lol
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That test makes me want to run out and buy WD-40 Specialist. I was very surprised that Barricade didn't rank much higher as I have seen a few other tests where it did come out pretty high up there. In fact, that is what I have been using in all my guns and so far, have been pretty lucky. Here in NE Ohio, I'm not really worried about getting any salt spray off the ocean though. Not yet, anyhow.
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I've read tests that rank Barricade and Gun Seal much higher also. I have some WD40 Specialist but have not tested it much. Actually surprised that RIG didnt place higher in that test. But Ive used it with good results for a long time . Even used it in Florida. But Im always open to something better. Ive also Used Eezox. But not extensively. And that seemed to score very well also. Good link Dave.
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For those who live in the Eastern part of our Countries, I suggest you use something that ranks highly in any rust-tests. Humidity is your enemy.
Around the Great lakes is VERY bad, humidity wise.
When I lived back there, I just used Hoppe's #9 Solvent. Seemed to work for me in all of my suppository rifles over the years.
Out here in the West, the average humidity is 50%. At rendezvous B.C., the humidity will run from 6 to 8 & up to 70 % or so when it's raining.
We do get humidity upwards of 90% here in a downpour, but back easy in Southern Ontario, the humidity will be 100% with not a cloud in the sky
and over 100F temps. That is hard on rust preventatives trying to do their job.
Again, maybe it will be the last time, but I doubt it, Bore Butter seems virtually chap-stick with camphor oil added for the nice smell. With loose patched
loads, it will actually build up in the bore and be hard/difficult to remove. The stuff that builds up, will have BP fouling under it = pitting.
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For those who live in the Eastern part of our Countries, I suggest you use something that ranks highly in any rust-tests. Humidity is your enemy.
Around the Great lakes is VERY bad, humidity wise.
When I lived back there, I just used Hoppe's #9 Solvent. Seemed to work for me in all of my suppository rifles over the years.
Out here in the West, the average humidity is 50%. At rendezvous B.C., the humidity will run from 6 to 8 & up to 70 % or so when it's raining.
We do get humidity upwards of 90% here in a downpour, but back easy in Southern Ontario, the humidity will be 100% with not a cloud in the sky
and over 100F temps. That is hard on rust preventatives trying to do their job.
Again, maybe it will be the last time, but I doubt it, Bore Butter seems virtually chap-stick with camphor oil added for the nice smell. With loose patched
loads, it will actually build up in the bore and be hard/difficult to remove. The stuff that builds up, will have BP fouling under it = pitting.
Am I to assume that the Ox Yoke Wonder Lube 1000 is pretty much the same thing as Bore Butter? I have been thinking that it is,myself. I have that stuff laying around also.
edit: on further researching , the consensus out there believes that wonder lube is the same as bore butter,just a different name.
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In the old days fat was melted and poured down the barrel 'til it was full. Many old rifles found their way to us in modern times by using this method.
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I too recommend RIG for long term storage. RIG is Rust Inhibiting Grease, not really a lube. I use it to lightly coat the underside of my pinned barrels and I’ve never had a problem.
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Short term I use WD-40 (less than a month) over one month I use EEZOX. It leaves a nice dry film on the metal when applied as directed. On moving parts I will use a small amount of light grease or a good oil. Works for me ;) ;D
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Be careful with the WD40.t can ruin an oil finish and a friend here had it ruin the finish on a fine CW Springfield when it ran out of the nipple and onto the wood. WD stands for WATER DISPLACING and I used it to spray set triggers after case hardening them in a water quench.
Bob Roller
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Could very well be, Bob, due to the 'carrier' WD40 has in it's composition. On the other hand, I have "cleaned" a True Oil finish using WD40 on a cloth, without
damaging THAT finish. I wiped it off after scrubbing the stock with it.
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Has anyone tried Ed’s Red some swear by it .walt
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Ed's Red (Ed Harris' recipe) is a terrific smokeless powder solvent.
It has Autotranny oil and Kerosene (I think mineral oil as well) & acetone yes and no.
I've never thought of it as a rust preventative, but guess it would work as well as any "light" oil.
Hoppe's #9 Smokeless solvent is better than Hoppe's Gun Oil as a rust preventative. Came in second to Eezox in one test.
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What is RIG?
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RIGG - is a rust inhibiting grease, made in (looks like) Oregon, Illinois. That's what it says on my tube of RIG.