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1
Antique Gun Collecting / Re: Gun makers in the day
« Last post by whetrock on Today at 08:12:15 PM »
This topic reminds me of a thread years ago which just asked how long it took people to build a gun. One commented a number of days, another commented a week. Gary Brumfield replied with something like, "You guys are a lot faster than I am. It takes me an hour just to file out a screw!"


 
2
Contemporary Longrifle Collecting / Re: Ernest “Steve” Kardos?
« Last post by Flintlock Fellow on Today at 08:10:35 PM »
Quote from: Bob Roller on Today at 07:32:16 PM
Who made the lock?I know the triggers are not mine but do wonder about the lock.That IS a fine looking long rifle that would look good in any collection.
Bob Roller

From what I understand, both Russ Hamm of Indiana and Dixie Gun Works (DGW) produced “Ashmore Warranted” locks in this style. On this particular lock, the stamped maker’s mark appears to sit higher than what I’ve typically seen on the DGW versions. That said, I’m not sure how much variation there might be in the placement of the text on those Italian-made examples. I’ll remove the lock as soon as I get a chance and check for any markings on the back of the plate.
3
Gun Building / Re: What Are Must Have Tools for pistol building (English Heavy Dragoon)
« Last post by Benjamin Martin on Today at 07:57:39 PM »
Quote from: Daryl on Today at 05:09:36 AM
All those "Middlesex"(there is or was a Canadian importer as well)guns are made in India. Some are close, others I have seen, including the one I bought were garbage. Garbage locks, garbage barrels, garbage stocks & garbage water soluble finishes.
Most of the musket barrels start as 1" "high tensile strength" tubing that is ground and polished to a taper. Those Indians are quite talented  however the tubes do not end up with consistent ballel walls.
That's what I know about those guns.


You are right about the Indians my friend. Those dudes got some talent. They make knives like you wouldn't believe and they do it mostly on the GROUND!
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Black Powder Shooting / Re: Ohio Flintlock and Buckskin Rendezvous-April 24-27
« Last post by Silky921 on Today at 07:37:51 PM »
Our event is this weekend. You're all welcome to come check it out if you're in the area. 
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Gun Building / Re: What Are Must Have Tools for pistol building (English Heavy Dragoon)
« Last post by Benjamin Martin on Today at 07:37:46 PM »
Quote from: smart dog on Today at 02:20:24 PM
Hi Benjamin,
Unfortunately, all of those write ups on the pistol are wrong with respect to its proper name and they perpetuate the misinformation that the British had "heavy dragoons".  The write up by MBS is particularly wrong because the pistol was rarely used if ever during the American Revolution.  There were no British Dragoon Guards or heavy cavalry sent to America.  They would have been useless in America.  Only the 16th and 17th light dragoons fought in the Revolution and they were armed with either Elliott or Royal Forester's light dragoon pistols.  There was no one likely to be issued the big land service pistol.  Officers had personal side arms privately made and purchased and the rank and file infantry did not carry pistols. Sailors had their own sea service arms. 

dave

Thank you for clearing this up for me. This is Such great information to me. Thanks
6
Black Powder Shooting / Re: Leading in my smooth bore
« Last post by varsity07840 on Today at 07:32:33 PM »
Quote from: Daryl on Today at 07:06:35 PM
Oxidation of the steel.  Set aside outside overnight, are they red the next day?
The only other explanation would be graphite. What make of power were you using?
Definitely not lead. Lead comes out silver in colour.
I would, if I were you, use a tighter patch .010 to .012 patch materials aren't thick enough.
You need a patch that not only maintains it's integrity (prevents cutting or burning) but also
carries enough lube to wet the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded, which in turn wets
the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded.
In a .620" bore, I would be using a 10 ounce denim patch with a .595" to .600" ball.
I’m using 60 gr of 3F Swiss. Any suggestions on getting rid of the black?

Thanks!

7
Contemporary Longrifle Collecting / Re: Ernest “Steve” Kardos?
« Last post by Bob Roller on Today at 07:32:16 PM »
Who made the lock?I know the triggers are not mine but do wonder about the lock.That IS a fine looking long rifle that would look good in any collection.
Bob Roller
8
Gun Building / Re: Mule Ear Lock ID
« Last post by JSMOSBY on Today at 07:15:13 PM »
I'm in the process of purchasing a longarm with a mule ear lock similar to the Midberry pictured above. Do you happen to know if the book "History of the Mule Ear" by Rick McGuckin referenced earlier was ever published?







9
Gun Building / Re: Can anyone recommend good quality coping saw blades for steel?
« Last post by Bob Roller on Today at 07:11:07 PM »
That looks like a miniature hacksaw.How long is the blade shown in metric or inch measurement?
Bob Roller
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Black Powder Shooting / Re: Leading in my smooth bore
« Last post by Daryl on Today at 07:06:35 PM »
Oxidation of the steel.  Set aside outside overnight, are they red the next day?
The only other explanation would be graphite. What make of power were you using?
Definitely not lead. Lead comes out silver in colour.
I would, if I were you, use a tighter patch .010 to .012 patch materials aren't thick enough.
You need a patch that not only maintains it's integrity (prevents cutting or burning) but also
carries enough lube to wet the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded, which in turn wets
the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded.
In a .620" bore, I would be using a 10 ounce denim patch with a .595" to .600" ball.
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