Recent Posts

11

Antique Gun Collecting / Re: Barrel #2 like a short Bess

« Last post by backsplash75 on Today at 08:24:18 PM »

shared from a generous colleague in the Netherlands:

"By the way, behind the Amsterdam mark, you can distinguish a T, this is often found on barrels by Lambertus Thone (working from 1781 onwards). To make things complicated: Thone came from Liege and apparently had a barrel factory in Liege, whilst residing and working in Amsterdam. So this is a barrel, made by Thone [in] Amsterdam, post 1781."

 

12

Gun Building / Re: Has anyone converted a Kibler SMR to percussion?

« Last post by hudson on Today at 08:12:51 PM »

When using a drum and nipple I make the drum from grade 5 or 8 bolts. I extend the breach plug that has a chamber and thread the drum into it so I can get more threads, no not like CVA. At friendship through the years when on the line there were three occasions that drums blow out thankfully no one was hurt. On small barrels were a 1/2 inch drum is used the nipple which has a ¼ shank extends half way into the through channel to the powder charge something to think about. On the one ½ inch did there wasn’t an ignition problem.

13

Black Powder Shooting / Re: Does this count?

« Last post by flatsguide on Today at 07:41:11 PM »

Exciting photo

14

Gun Building / Re: Building a true parts gun

« Last post by rich pierce on Today at 07:20:41 PM »

Fun stuff. None of the barrels are loaded, on inspection. One has a bore that is quite good but it’s been percussed, so after determining if the bore is recoverable, I’ll need to restore it to flint. I have some wrought iron I could use the fashion a plug to thread into where the drum was. The Bess-like Dutch barrel 40” long and .700 bore is almost perfect and I still wonder how old it is.

15

Gun Building / Re: Building a true parts gun

« Last post by ScottH on Today at 07:12:59 PM »

This latest question reminds me of the thread some time ago that was about producing guns in "a workman like manor". Some of the members in that thread posted guns that they had made in less than a week, or up to about a weeks time. Most all of the guns were quite nice.
I think it really illustrates that gun makers in colonial times made guns for every day use and got them out of the shop quickly. I would imagine of course that if they got a commission for a "special" order gun for a dignitary, or gift, some more time would be required.
IMHO
So Rich I think I would do the steps needed to make a usable gun ins a reasonable amount of time. Good luck, can't wait to see what you do with the parts.

16

Antique Gun Collecting / Re: london proof marks

« Last post by smart dog on Today at 07:11:54 PM »

Hi,
The stamps are not clear but I think they are Birmingham proofs.  That means the gun was made sometime after 1813.

dave

17

Antique Accoutrements / Re: Original powder measurer questions

« Last post by Hawg on Today at 06:59:57 PM »

Many of them were made from wood, antler and bone and weren't well taken care of.

18

Antique Gun Collecting / london proof marks

« Last post by lowrider58 on Today at 06:57:52 PM »

Hello everybody, new member from North Dallas.
Can any body help identify these proof marks, barrel is stamped london on the right side
and these stamps on the top side. no markings on the lock.
Thanks for the help and I really appreciate the discussions of the various gunsmiths.
I have learned a lot, you guys are a wealth of experience.

19

Gun Building / Re: Scottish highland pistol fabrication

« Last post by Maven on Today at 06:48:30 PM »

Such pistols were also known dags.  Searching for that term may help as will Doune, a gunmaking center in Scotland.

20

Gun Building / Re: Building a true parts gun

« Last post by rich pierce on Today at 05:38:02 PM »

Hi Rich,

My vote, based only upon conjecture, is to draw file the old barrel as well as clean up other parts… within reason. “Pragmatic” is a good description of Yankee gunsmiths, but stocking old parts with no attempt at cleaning them up would go beyond that and into the realm of crude.That’s not to say it didn’t happen, though. Personally, I’d like to see deeper pits and scratches left, with the more superficial surface flaws filed out. Maybe give yourself a time limit so you clean it up as best you can without making it look brand new?

When you ream out the bores, would you mind sharing some photos of the process?

- Tom

Will do, Tom.