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81
Gun Building / Re: Aqua Fortis Reagent
« Last post by smart dog on August 12, 2022, 02:08:26 PM »
Hi,
Davec2 is completely correct.  You should get good results with either ferric nitrate crystals dissolved in alcohol or water,  or aqua fortis made using nitric acid and iron.  The results may differ a little.  You should neutralize the stain made from nitric acid after blushing with heat using ammonia, baking soda in water, or lye in water.  Theoretically, you do not need to neutralize the stain made from ferric nitrate crystals.  However, I often still paint the stock with lye mixed in water because it will redden the color of the blushed stain considerably if that is my desire.

dave 
82
Gun Building / Re: Laurel Mt Forge Browning?
« Last post by davec2 on August 12, 2022, 07:21:25 AM »
Having the right humidity and temperature is a HUGE help in getting a great finish and quickly.  Living in Southern California, the heat isn't usually a problem but we have little to no humidity most of the year.  This old post of mine covers how I got around that...

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=21382.msg203054#msg203054
83
Gun Building / Re: Aqua Fortis Reagent
« Last post by davec2 on August 12, 2022, 06:46:29 AM »
canadianml1,

The iron nitrate in solid form is manufactured by dissolving iron in nitric acid and it is then desiccated to the solid crystalline form.  So, if you re-dissolve the ferric nitrate in water, you are right back to the same place as you would be dissolving iron in nitric acid....with a slight exception.  In the fresh nitric acid dissolution there may be some residual unreacted acid present that will not be there if you dissolve the solid in water.  The unreacted acid will also contribute to the color of the wood, along with the absorbed iron, after heat blushing.  Will it make a noticeable difference on any given piece of wood ??  It has for me but that is subject to the internal chemistry of the individual piece of wood.  The simple answer is that the dissolved iron nitrate crystals will certainly darken the wood just like the dissolved iron in nitric acid.  Whether they would come out the same on a single piece of wood is an unknown.  I have tried it all three ways...iron dissolved in nitric acid, iron (ferric) nitrate in water, iron nitrate in ethanol.  All three came out very similar but a tad different on a single piece of wood.  Just my results from a single experiment.

Hope this helps.

84
Gun Building / Re: Aqua Fortis Reagent
« Last post by canadianml1 on August 12, 2022, 05:56:43 AM »
Thankyou Davec2 for your comments. If I make the solution using nitric acid and iron filings will it be a better stain result than if I make it with ferric nitrate and water? What are the pros and cons to the two methods?
85
Contemporary Longrifle Collecting / Re: My Kibler's Southern Mountain Rifle
« Last post by Grischi on August 12, 2022, 05:31:53 AM »
Kitchen table!!??  Holy cow!   Would you care to give me/us an idea of the tools you used?  I have been looking at those for a long, long time but I am such a hack when it comes to doing anything well with my hands. I've been afraid it would be a total waste of money and waste of nice materials for me to attempt one but you are giving me some hope. 

Thanks, Mick

Well, my tools:
a small hammer, a hacksaw, different wood chisels, different screwdrivers, a flat file, a half-round file, some needle files, sanding paper with different grits, fine scotch brite pads, 0000 steel wool, a small foldable clamping workbench from a hardware store , a cordless power drill and a heat gun for the aqua fortis.
Jim Kibler's kits are great and precicely preshaped, if you intend to build your kit without additional hardware and inletting you don't need the hacksaw and just one or two small chisel. The only thing you have to pay attention to is the real filligree wood at the forestock.  Patience and sharp chisels are essential.

Christian
86
Antique Gun Collecting / Re: William Beals Rifle
« Last post by Molly on August 12, 2022, 05:06:11 AM »
Page 45
Notes on Southern Longrifles, Vol 4

Page 92 ??
87
Black Powder Shooting / Re: increased fouling
« Last post by smylee grouch on August 12, 2022, 05:05:42 AM »
Try giving the crown a nice polish, mike those patches as a lot of times the advertised thickness isn't what it really is. If you can shoot a tighter combo some of your fouling problems might go away.
88
Items for Sale/Wanted / Re: Smoothbore gun for sale
« Last post by paulitus on August 12, 2022, 05:00:49 AM »
New price, $3000.00, freight included
89
Black Powder Shooting / Re: increased fouling
« Last post by MuskratMike on August 12, 2022, 04:58:28 AM »
Marcruger: I have never used the Hoppe's BP lube but do have a bottle on the shelf. When doing a trail walk do you carry the bottle with you or pre-lube and carry the soppy wet ones in a tin? I like my T.O.T.W. Mink mixed with Pure Neatsfoot oil but am always willing to give something else a try, but don't like dealing with greasy fingers needing to be dried after each load. Can't dispute the accuracy you get and after all that's everyone's goal, or should be.
90
Gun Building / Re: Aqua Fortis Reagent
« Last post by davec2 on August 12, 2022, 04:46:49 AM »
canadianml1,

If you can get nitric acid, it is extremely easy to handle....as far as putting your eye out you can do that even easier with black powder or a pencil !!!  Most junior high students of my generation (I'm nearly 70) could use it in a chemistry class without hurting themselves.  Also, nitric acid is no more dangerous than Drano (for clearing drains), lye (for making soap and for the glaze on bagels) or muriatic acid that millions and millions of people dump in their jacuzzi or swimming pool and then jump in nearly naked.  And by the way, the muriatic acid in your stomach is strong enough to dissolve a horse shoe.  So, if you can follow extraordinarily simple directions, you can handle nitric acid with complete safety.  However, if you buy it, buy "technical grade"....they sell a "reagent grade" but that means that the acid is especially pure for laboratory testing use.  I use it for gold refining to keep the end product pure but, in this case, you would be dissolving iron in it so you don't need the extra expense of "reagent" grade acid.  Tech grade is a fair amount cheaper.

Nitric can be used diluted to etch steel, copper, brass, and silver and other metals as well as in making the traditional iron nitrate stain.  It will also effectively stain wood to a lovely color even without the iron in it if applied and heat blushed in the same manner.  It has been around since the 1300s and millions of pounds of it are produced world wide every year.  Black powder is FAR more dangerous yet I assume everyone reading this has and uses black powder.  If not, they build or own wall ornaments that look like long rifles....

Sorry for the rant, but I am less and less tolerant of people who are afraid of things they know little or nothing about.  If all the information people knew about gasoline was what is included in the official MSDS, they wouldn't put 25 gallons of it under their a$$ and drive around town.  But they know that however correct the MSDS technically is, they can handle gasoline safely without blowing themselves up or burning down the house......The same is true of the black powder I am assuming we all use safely.

If you want to make the iron nitrate stain the way the non fearful gunsmiths of the past did, PM me and I will send you a copy of the directions from Bill Knight (Mad Monk) and Bill Mende.
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