Making Headway

[LURCHWV@BJS]

   Finally got the barrel and tang inlet,  Had to make the tennons(?) (underluggs) from brass.  Thank You Mike Brooks for your tutorial on the subject.  Only had to redo the first one made.  It's really quite easy to make them.  And I had fun doing it.  Now come a part I'm still apprehensive about inletting the lock.  No mater how much I sharpen my chisels the wood still tears.  I'm going to the WoodCraft Home Store tommorrow I'll see about getting a few Quality chisels.

   I also need to find some tpi taps I only have NC..  Hopefuly Cains Outdoor carries them.
Is it O.K. for the groove for the underlugs to be seen in the Ramrod channel?  It's not in it, but you can definately see brass.  I drew my lines to check for the front lockbolt placement and if I did it right I should have no problems there.  I have two dayz off and hope to have more to report tommorrow.   TTFN

                  Rich

[billd]

Around here NAPA auto stores carry decent taps. Maybe not the cheapest but if ytou only need one and don't want to wait and pay sgipping...
Bill

[Bill of the 45th]

Lurch, if you didn't break thru the web inletting your tenons you did good.  It's not uncommon to do it as the web is so thin.  If you are still tearing wood, your chisels are really dull.  You should be able to shave hair easily.  Google "Scarey Sharp", and check out the tutorial there.  It's a simple, cheap system, and will yield very sharp tools.   If you buy some new chisels, know that they have to be sharpened when you first get them, as they are only rough sharpened.  Also, you don't need a large set 1/4, 1/2, and if you can find an 1/8" is all you generally need.  Hang in there.

Bill

[Dean D.]

Rich, be very careful at the WoodCraft store, it's a trap!!!    My initial visit cost me in excess of $140.00        I kept saying "I need one of those..."  LOL

Seriously though, the Pfeil 6 piece chisel set I bought was well worth the money spent.  I was not sure I would use all the shapes but as it turns out I have.

[LURCHWV@BJS]

   $172  But I needed that, Got everything but taps.  Should have them tommorrow.


           Rich

[Mark Elliott]

With regard to the barrel tenons showing in the ramrod groove,  that is just fine.   I cut the slots for my tenons (barrel and thimbles) right on through the web.   Most of the original rifles that I have seen show that very same thing.   If the web is the correct thickness, it is just about impossible not to cut through.    These inlets will be covered by the barrel and the ramrod.  Now, they should be nice and neat.   I use a jewelers file to neaten up the slots for the barrel tenons. 

You are also going to cut through into the barrel channel at front of the mainspring when you inlet the lock.   You may also cut into the ramrod hole.   Don't worry about these, they are normal if you are taking the proper amount of wood off the stock.   As long as all this is on the inside and you can't see it that is just fine.   It is the way they did it in the 18th century.

 
Mark E.

[Mark Elliott]

Rich,

I want to amplify what Bill said about sharpening.   All your cutting tools need to be very sharp.  Sharper than you can probably imagine at this point.    You need to check out all the references that you can about sharpening and really try to master that.   Knowing how to properly sharpen you tools is at least half the battle.   It took me a long time to learn to sharpen my tools so that they were just adequate.   I am still learning how to do it.    One thing you have to discipline yourself to do ( and it is difficult, at least for me) is to stop what you are doing and sharpen your chisel, or plane, or graver when it is not cutting the way it should.   Now, honing is usually all that is needed once you get the edge shaped correctly, but I find myself doing that sometimes as often as every 20 minutes when I am working along steadily.   I am not sure I even go that long when I am turning on the lathe.  It you can learn to sharpen everything correctly, it will save you a lot of grief.

The test that I use to check my edged tools for sharpness is to see if the blade sticks into my finger nail when lightly (very lightly) touching it.  If the edge slides off, it is not sharp enough.   Any time that you are using a lot of force on a tool or it is slipping, then it is not sharp.

That said,   you talked about wood tearing out.   A sharp (maybe not perfectly sharp) edged tool will tear out wood or chip an edge if you are cutting against the grain.   You must work with the grain.   Many times when you are working with figured wood, you must change the direction of your cut to accommodate the grain.

For the sake of full disclosure,  I do not always do the things that I just told you to do.   When I don't I end up with a less than perfect result, sometimes much less than perfect.

One more thing.   I recently discovered diamond impregnated sharpening "stones".   They are wonderful!   They cut very quickly and do not hollow out.   When a perfect edge is important, use a diamond stone.   I have one that I use all the time now for sharpening my favorite scraper and gravers.   Just a couple of licks on that stone and you are set to go.

Keep plugging.

Mark E.