Powder Horn Tacks

[jbignell]

I am currently working on my first powder horn, and I hoping for some advice.  I was curious as to what a common hunter might have used to tack his base plug into his powder horn.  I have heard talk of using wooden pins, and I was curious as to how well these held up, and as to how to attach them?  I would certainly be interested in hearing any other ideas from more seasoned horners.  Also, I am wanting to make the strap attachment with something other than the driven staple.  Your suggestions and time are greatly appreciated.

[Pete G.]

I've always used about 6 round toothpicks driven into a 1/16" hole around the base end of the horn and trimmed flush. The horn plug is tapered and driven into the heated horn end and would probably stay even without being tacked. I have seen pictures of old horns that were friction fit only, but very few.

[blackdave]

I have built a number of horns using wooden pegs.  You can use black locust thorns (we have loads of them growing on the river bottoms hear in SC Kansas) or even the lowly toothpick.  I generally drill a slightly undersized hole and drop a dab of superglue down the hole before tapping in the peg.  I leave the peg a little long, let the glue set, then trim to flush on the horn.  Then, seal the base plug with beeswax.   I have used this method for 20+ years and never had a plug "let go" or loosen using this method.  

Your humble and obedient servant,

Dave

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I generally use toothpicks as well.  On a couple of horns I have used small dowel rods when it suited the look. 

Tacks were common though and I do not think brass tacks automatically means a fancy horn.  I have never used them much.  A friend of mine hooked me up with some antique brass tacks that I am working with right now, they are pretty fragile, but look good. 

Coryjoe

[Elnathan]

I made a couple powderhorns and horn containers with only a friction fit plug, but had one plug shift and another in a horn container come loose completely, so I peg all mine now. I use toothpicks, breaking off the end but leaving just a little bit of the factory taper, put a dab of glue on the end and drive them into a drilled hole. I find 5/64" works better than 1/16", as they fit tightly without breaking. If you have a jeweler's saw with a fine blade you can use that to cut the remainder off, then trim with a sharp knife or chisel.

[LRB]

  I also use toothpicks and a dab of epoxy, then trim with nippers, and file flush.

[Ephraim]

I use thorns or iron nails some times round tooth picks.
Ephraim

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I've used all of the above, including some small soft steel leather nails.  They have a square section just under the head, so that when they are dressed off, there is a small square iron peg.  I usually use eight in the butt plug, pre-drilling thru the horn and into the hardwood plug.

[smylee grouch]

You could also use brass brazzing rod, unfluxed and thin bought at most hardware stores. One rod will do about 20 horns.   Gary

[jbignell]

Thank you all for the input, I really like the look of the homespun/common man styled gear, and I'm going to give the wooden pins a try.  Working on horns is really enjoyable, I'll try and get some pictures up of the finished work in a few days.  Thank you all again.

[Jerry V Lape]

Not having black locust thorns around here, I made some from small piece of ebony and used those just like the toothpicks and glued them in with yellow wood glue.  (If the pegs stick to the wood all around then they can't get out.)  Cut flush and sanded off the ebony makes nice accent to scimshaw.  Yea I know, they probably didn't have ebony back in the day.  But they did have other very dark woods. 

[Luke MacGillie]

In the east, brass tacks on an 18th century horn are almost a 100% certainty that the horn was Native made.  This is the about only place that you see brass tacks on Native gear in the east.........

[Shovelbuck]

I use 1/8 inch hardwood dowels in mine but the locust thorn use sounds neat. I've got tons of them around here.

[Dave K]

I have always used the thorns myself, since they are everywhere here as well. I pour sodium silicate (also called water glass) into the horn, drain the excess out and allow to dry. It makes the horn very water tight. As a test,after epoxying and pinning the cap, I was really suprised how much air pressure it took to make it leak air. It was right at 100psi. Your luck may vary.

[Longshot]

I picked up a bag of shoe pegs [squared] from Mike Small, which are a little more tedious to install, but hold well and can result in a pretty distinctive look.