Made a big boo boo, help.

[Puzzledprofessor]

I was so excited to get some oil on the stock of my first flintlock build that I forgot to neutralize the aqua fortis. Soooooo, now that I have coat of oil on the wood I assume there is nothing to be done about it. Will there be any long term problems with the wood or finish because of my blunder? Any thought would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.

[Kevin Houlihan]

Some will tell you that the stock will continue to darken if not neutralized. I have a smooth bore that I made 20 years ago that was stained w/ WAHKON BAY aqua fortis and not neutralized. The stock is no darker now than when it was originally stained. If it was me I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure others will disagree.
Kevin

[Dennis Glazener]

I have had the same experience that Snap has, far more important to neutralize the browning solution than the AquaFortis on the stock wood (IMHO)
Dennis

[sqrldog]

I agree I have a rifle stained with AF IN 1985 If its any darker now than when finished it is only slightly so and that could just be from exposure to the sun wax and oil build up. Don't worry about it finish your rifle and enjoy it.

[smallpatch]

I use ferric nitrate, and you don't need to neutralize. I would think that a properly prepared acid/iron mixture(ferric nitrate) should be pretty close to neutral.  The acid should be depleted when you have a saturated mixture.
Not sure if there is any purpose for residual acid, but you sure don't need it to color wood.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I think your result will depend somewhat on how completely you heated the acid on the wood.  If you heated it until no further darkening occurred, all of the acid should be neutralized since you are driving off the hydrogen ions and leaving iron oxide behind.  If you barely blanched the wood with heat, you may have darkening in the future.

dave

[Stophel]

I stained one birch shotgun butt stock probably 10 years ago, didn't bother to neutralize, and it has long since turned nearly jet black (probably did it within only a year or two).  I have stained a beech rifle stock about 5 years ago, and also didn't bother to neutralize, and it has continued to grow noticeably darker and darker over this time.

Linseed oil is hardly waterproof (especially if it isn't dry).  It could still be neutralized.

[Dphariss]

I was so excited to get some oil on the stock of my first flintlock build that I forgot to neutralize the aqua fortis. Soooooo, now that I have coat of oil on the wood I assume there is nothing to be done about it. Will there be any long term problems with the wood or finish because of my blunder? Any thought would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.

If its TRUE FERRIC NITRATE with no other acid in the mix and wood was well and deeply heated to develop the color you are probably OK. If its  made with a mix of acids as some commercial stuff is or was then it may darken regardless.

Dan

[Dphariss]

I would also point out that some store bought boiled LS oil is pretty acidic. To the point it will rot canvas if used to make oil cloth (I have been told). If the oil is recooked with some limestone fines (hammered limestone gravel will work)  it will be mostly neutralized and should help to neutralize the stain.

Dan

[Puzzledprofessor]

Thanks to all for the good information.  I heated it well, twice, so I am going to cross my fingers and hope for best. Thanks again.

[Pete G.]

Depending on the oil you used, but with only one coat you may try wiping down with ammonia.
I have a rifle that I used a commercial AF on and did not neutralize. It turned rather dark in the first year, but seems to have stabilized.

[Mark Elliott]

Linseed oil is a poor water proofing.  You can neutralize through it.

[FL-Flintlock]

Linseed oil is a poor water proofing.  You can neutralize through it.

Linseed oil has excellent water resistance, but poor moisture resistance.