Need ideas on build

[Longbow68]

I purchased one of Pecatonicas  southern Mtn. kits some time back and have been doing alot of reading and studying southern rifles since.I don't have the luxury of being able to" hands on" study these rifles so I am asking for a little help.I would really like to copy a particular school or builder but I am unsure of which one because of the profile of my stock.If anyone is familiar with this design (pecatonica southern mtn.)please send some ideas.Sorry to ramble but I just really want everything to work out.Thanks for reading.Chris

[Pete G.]

Southern Rifles cover a lot of territory, but I am assuming you are leaning towards the Southern Appalachian style of an uncarved iron mounted rifle. A pre-carved stock is going to be pretty much correct architecturally so you concentrate on fitting the parts and removing some of the excess wood around the lock panels and fore stock. If you want a go by look for some of the examples of Baxter Bean's work out of East Tennessee.
Look in the virtual museum and you will find several examples of Southern guns.

[Bill of the 45th]

Longbow, welcome to the ALR.  First off if you haven't build before, you should get one of the available books on gun building at MBS, or Track or Dixon's.  Next you should get at least one of Jerry Noble's books on Southern Long Rifles, there are four volumes but start with Volume 1 or 2. Third is Ray McKnight's DVD on Southern Rifles.  Fourth search "East Tennessee" on this site for lots of pics, and info  Ray McKnights contact info is Phone  520-298-3004, his address is 1802 S. Camino Seco, Tucson Az., 85710  To contact Jerry Noble Phone 309-582-2852 414 N.E. 7th Ave.  Aledo, Ill. 61231.  Both of these fellows are low tech.  Phone or mail only  I think all this stuff is in the $20-m$30 range, and these guys are great to talk to.  Also if you are starting out you probably want to start with an East Tennessee, as they are kind of the most common, but not the only ones, when you start researching the subject.  The most common mistake beginners make is putting a German style lock on one of these guns, instead of an English Hardware lock.  While the german style appear on rare occasions the Ketland, or Durrs Egg style are most common.  Do some research, ask lots of questions, and have fun.

Bill

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Hey Longbow, Welcome to the ALR.  Is this the kit you purchased?

http://www.longrifles-pr.com/southernmtn.shtml

There are several Guys who are very knowledgeable of these guns who can help you out. Search for posts by Ken Guy and Guy Montfort. Bill knapp has given you some great advice...

[Longbow68]

Thanks for the replies fellas.Looks like some more research is in store.

Dr.Tim
Yes, that is the kit but I asked Dick to send it with a late ketland and "B" weight .50cal. 42" swamped barrel.The rest of the furniture is steel also.Right now the only work that has been done (by Pecat.) is barrel channel and RR groove so changing furniture style is still an option.Thanks again.Chris

[Longbow68]

Bill
I forgot to mention I purchased "The gunsmith of Grenville county"and "Guns and gunmaking tools of southern Appalachia.Reading books and skulking around on here listening to you fellas has taught me alot.Thanks.Chris

[Ken G]

Longbow,
Welcome to the board.  I've built a couple of rifles using that Pecatonica precarve.  It will make a fine Henderson Co., NC rifle.  
The low comb and curved toe line shows up from time to time in upper E. TN.  Israel McInturff comes to mind.  He actually bought land from the Beans in Washington Co..  The Sr. moved there from Shennandoah Co., VA which accounts for his rifles looking different from the typical Upper E. TN rifles.  
The profile also looks very much like some of the Higgins rifles.  
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=8233.0
The possibilities are limitless.  Unless you are really wanting to copy someone, I'd build a generic Appalachia Mt. rifle and have some fun building it.  Hope that helps some.

Cheers,
Ken 

[Longbow68]

Ken
Man,you guys are full of good info.You are correct on the comb,low profile with a bit of roman nose look to it.I  love the profile of this stock.I like your idea on the generic build too!Thanks.Chris

[G-Man]

Ken's idea of a western North Carolina style rifle is a good one.  Those  mountin rifles shown in Bivins book on North Carolina guns comes to mind.  If you are not dead set on the hardware that came with the stock, check out Dennis Glazener's Gillespie style guard and buttplate (his website is "Gillespierifleworks.com" if  I am not mistaken.  They are available in iron or brass, and are very reasonable.  He also has a good book on Gillespie rifles with good photos.  I always thought those triggerguards that have the spur curving forward, like the Gillespie, look really good with that long extended toe line that sweeps up toward the guard in a slight curve like that.  

Bill's suggestions on resources are all good ones as well.  Sounds like you got a nice set of parts to work with.  

Good luck

Guy

[chuck c.]

Before you get started check the position of your ramrod hole very carefully. I'm sure it doesn't happen very often but I had that rear up and bite me on the butt the last time I used a pre-carve. Way too much work done to try and send it back before I discovered the problem. Most people don't notice the repair but it was a lot of extra work and it bothers me when I look at it.   

[J.D.]

I suggest checking the thickness of the web between the bottom of the barrel channel and the top of  the RR hole. Some of those precarves leave waaaayyyy too much wood there. The easiest solution is to remove wood from the bottom and oblique flats of the barrel channel until the thickness of the web is about 3/16" thick.

Also be aware of the thickness of the stock under the RR hole. Some precarves leave as much as 1/2" of wood there. IMHO, the finished thickness should around 1/8" or less thick.

God bless

[G-Man]

One thing that a lot of people miss on these pre-carves is that they do have more wood to remove than you first think, in some places, and others where you need to go real slow and careful.  But most people leave too much wood.

That being said, there is nothing sacred about the precise lines of the stock as it is - you can ususally do a good deal of modification to the look as long as you think a few steps ahead - for example, if you change the comb line, you might need to change the cheekpiece shape a bit to flow correctly visually, etc. 

There is a pretty neat possible Carolina or Georgia-made original posted under "Antiques" today you might like to take a look at - another example of a good southern mountain rifle. 

Guy

[Dennis Glazener]

If you are not dead set on the hardware that came with the stock, check out Dennis Glazener's Gillespie style guard and buttplate (his website is "Gillespierifleworks.com" if  I am not mistaken.  They are available in iron or brass, and are very reasonable.  He also has a good book on Gillespie rifles with good photos.  I always thought those triggerguards that have the spur curving forward, like the Gillespie, look really good with that long extended toe line that sweeps up toward the guard in a slight curve like that. 

Actually its www.Gillespierifles.com then look for the catalog page.
Dennis