From Planks to Blanks

[Majorjoel]

I've had 6 planks seasoning out in my garage for the last 5 years. 3 are of the nicest top grade birdseye maple and 3 are curly maple. This wood came from Michigans upper penninsula, and all passes the finger nail hardness test. Each plank is approx. 7-8 inches wide by 2 3\4+ inches thick by 100 inches long (8'4"). Well, it is now time to make these into stock blanks. My question is, is there a generic blank pattern that can be used for multiple schools of rifles using wood with my dimensions? Right now while I have some time on my hands it would be nice to get these cut into blank shapes and perhaps get a couple inletted for barrels and r\r holes drilled. Another problem is going to be working these monsters into my band saw. They weigh a ton. Going to definately need a second or third hand for the job. It would be nice to get double blanks from each plank, but that shall depend upon how the wrist grain works out. Any helpful hints here as always are highly appreciated.........Joel

[Birddog6]

I would say copy the way Dunlap's cut their blanks.  I have bought over 50 from Wayne & have been able to fit every single rifle I have tried on his blank patterns.  If need be, I could copy one & mail it to you or probably he would do the same.
What you are trying to do is important, as adding wood is not an option.  I bought 2 blanks from a dif. vender last year that have awesome grain & stripes & etc., but only to find out I am VERY limited to what I can make with them, because the vender cuts too much  wood out of the belly of the buttstock.  So if you are making a roman nose or a Lehigh or something of that nature, you are fine. If you want a Lancaster, York, or even a Tenn, you are SOL as there is not enough wood in them to get the buttstock correct.  
And I suggest 4 people on the band saw, if you don't have a roller or long bench behind the bandsaw.   One to help you thru the saw with the planks & one to catch the cutoffs as they come thru the saw & not catch or pinch the blade.  
I would say 3 people at the min. & someone with some strength & brains. The planks are heavy & want to twist as they come off the saw, so you need someone strong enough to handle them.

I have 9 black walnut planks that are 3" thick, 28" wide & 9' long that I need to get planed to see the grain well before I cut them. Problem is finding a planer that wide. So far 22" is the widest I have found. Oh, have have 2 cherry planks as well that are 3" x 24" wide, 6' long. Looks like I may have to try a electric hand planer to at least get to where I can see the grain, cut the blanks out on the band saw &  then have them planed & cleaned up.


 Keith Lisle

[Dennis Glazener]

Another problem is going to be working these monsters into my band saw. They weigh a ton. Going to definately need a second or third hand for the job.

I had the same problem and borrowed my neighbors Bosch jigsaw see this link: http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductCategory.aspx?catid=140 and man I am going to sell my band saw and get one of those! I went by Lowes and bought a 3 pack of the long blades, I believe they are 5 inch, and cut out some blanks from some 3" black walnut. They cut through that like hot butter. I also tried it on some 2 3/4 inch maple and it cut that the same way. I was impressed! I could lay the 8 ft boards on saw horses and then cut them all the way up to the saw horse then move the board back far enough to finish the cut. All of this by myself. This is NOT you average "jig saw".
Dennis

[Dennis Glazener]

So far 22" is the widest I have found. Oh, have have 2 cherry planks as well that are 3" x 24" wide, 6' long. Looks like I may have to try a electric hand planer to at least get to where I can see the grain, cut the blanks out on the band saw &  then have them planed & cleaned up.

Keith I used my belt sander with an 80 grit belt. Worked fine.
Dennis

[Majorjoel]

As an update I just finished pulling the planks out of my dark garage. The birdseye looks great but there are 2 of the curly that are checking from each end. The worse appears to be going about 6" or so into the wood. I had better deal with them asap!

[Birddog6]

So far 22" is the widest I have found. Oh, have have 2 cherry planks as well that are 3" x 24" wide, 6' long. Looks like I may have to try a electric hand planer to at least get to where I can see the grain, cut the blanks out on the band saw &  then have them planed & cleaned up.

Keith I used my belt sander with an 80 grit belt. Worked fine.
Dennis

May just do that as I have a big belt sander, but I also bought a elect hand planer about 4-5 months ago to try as well.  I have not had time to dig them out, but will soon find time as they are in the way in the new shop I am trying to finish up & I have moved the umpteen times & I promised myself the next time I move them they will be blanks or firewood !    Original excuse was no power....  Have that now, next excuse  was outlets, Have those now, latest excuse is Lights.... they arrived Monday.  Todays excuse is trying to get a rifle finished to take to the CLA show !  ha ha ha !  

Keith Lisle

[Majorjoel]

Thanks Keith for your advise. It's good I have 4 burly sons who just can't wait to come over and help their poor ole paw out! Another question! What width blade do you like to use on your bansaw for these thick boards?

[Birddog6]

It is probably ? 5/8" or so with big teeth. Thick hard wood so I want it to cut fast & a wide one will not grab & break as easy as a narrow one will, if you get in a bind. Now that is for me, others may find  dif. and have a better & larger saw than I use.  And of course it is important to keep it leval as possible, especially at the end of the cut.

Keith Lisle

[bluenoser]

I'm with Dennis

I have one of the Bosch saws and love it.  A word of caution.  Don't waste your money on stamped blades.  Buy the ground blades and make sure they are the ones that cut on the up-stroke- there is no comparison when it comes to performance.  Also, use a new blade. A blade that is a little dull on one side is likely to not make a square cut.

Laurie

[Acer Saccharum]

As the wood dries in the plank, stresses build up. When you cut it into stock blanks, stress will be relieved, and the blanks can move, twist, cup, curl.

I like to lay a few of my favorite guns out on masonite or thin ply, trace their profiles all on top of each other to get a 'universal profile'. I leave 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch bigger all the way around for wood movement. Of course, this does not include Hudson Valley Fowlers or wall guns and such.

After you cut blanks, seal up all end grain: end of butt, underside of butt, muzzle end. This will help prevent further checking.

Tom

[Jim Kibler]

One other option is to cut relatively close to size of guns you intend to build.  I've run into cases where if things were close, it allowed another blank from the plank.  This may also better allow the pattern to be manipulated for best grain flow etc.  It's nice and necessary for dealers to make the blanks oversize, but there are no doubt times where wood is wasted and blanks are sacrificed.

[Acer Saccharum]

I have to agree with you Jim, on wasting stock.

Whether the material is air dried or kiln dried may have some affect on the stability of the blank. Any spiral grain in the tree will affect how much stress is in the plank, as will major crotches or burls.

I have seen the kerf close up and bind the saw to a standstill. Blanks can move 3/4" of an inch once cut from the plank.

May I suggest that you lay out your ideal cut lines, and saw some scrap off a waste area. If the cutoff remains stable, then go for the close-to-size blanks. If it curls up on you, then you will have to reconsider your layourt..

Tom

[Mike Brooks]

I use one of dunlaps stocks for a pattern and use my chainsaw to cut them out of the plank. I sacrifice an extra stock or two by giving ideal lay out priority.

[T*O*F]

I have to agree with you Jim, on wasting stock.

If the planks are only 7" wide I don't think he's going to have much waste.  I think he's going to be fairly restricted to what pattern he's going to be able to get out of them.

[keweenaw]

Just remember that you're better off getting one really good blank from each plank with perfect layout through the wrist than getting two with poor wrists.  In June a fellow was trying to sell some blanks that had been cut from planks in the early 60's.  Spectacular curl, not just good but spectacular.  The guy who had cut them from the planks cut two with the top of the blanks running along the edge of the plank which gave complete musket wrist.  So instead of $600 or $700 blanks he had scrap wood.

Tom

[northmn]

If the planks are only 7" wide I don't think he's going to have much waste.  I think he's going to be fairly restricted to what pattern he's going to be able to get out of them.
[/quote]

If you start doing the math, a 7" wide plank gives you little to play with.  3" drop and a 4 inch deep buttplate.  We have discussed the wrist issue before and a certain amount of cross grain was found even in originals that have lasted without breakage.  I have made two stocks out of trees and cut them out with a chainsaw to get them manageable.  One I split out with wedges to get the width.   The other I had to use the chainsaw to get it portable enough to bandsaw. If you do not have a chainsaw you can kerf the lengths with circular saw and then split it out with wedges so you can lift them.  Cross cutting can be done from both sides with circular saw.  Use carbide blades.   I just do not think you have enough width to play with to be very fussy.

DP

[JCKelly]

Back in the '70's some guy half my age owned 5/6 of a maple tree, thick planks something over a foot wide. Heavy. Cut rough oversize pieces using a small (now old) Black & Decker jig saw, then cut to final pattern on a Sears Bandsaw (all tools made in some country called USA)

One reason your planks are checking on the ends is that water dries out of the end grain faster than through the sides of the plank. Common practice is to seal the end grain with wax, or whatever, whilst the plank is drying out over the months or years.

[Jim Kibler]

At 7" wide the gun will need to be angled on the plank.  This actually is a good thing since it allows for better flow through the wrist.  Most wood dealers that don't deal in stump cut lay stocks out this way regardless of plank width.  Working with a pattern relatively close to finished rifle size may be the only way to fit a blank to a small piece of wood.  A big oversize pattern likely won't fit.