Author Topic: Upper Susquehanna Rifle (Read 10358 times)

Nate McKenzie · « **on:** July 10, 2010, 11:15:47 PM »

A while back in a thread on using ferric nitrate to stain stocks, I said I was using it mixed with rubbing alcohol to stain an Upper Susquehanna style rifle I was building for a customer and some said they would like to see pictures when it was done. The rifle is on the contemporary makers blogspot today. http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/

KLMoors · « **Reply #1 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:44:05 PM »

Looks real nice Nate. I've got a question. How did you get that nice blue on your screws? Is that a hot blue process of some sort?

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #2 on:** July 11, 2010, 01:10:28 AM »

Nate, did the alcohol make a real difference re not raising the grain? Did it require less de-whiskering??

rf50cal · « **Reply #3 on:** July 11, 2010, 01:55:36 AM »

I don't often see contemporary rifles from this school, but this one sure is nice . Good job Nate.

bama · « **Reply #4 on:** July 11, 2010, 03:33:32 PM »

Nicely done. It's good to see builders branching out from the norm.

Nate McKenzie · « **Reply #5 on:** July 12, 2010, 05:34:33 AM »

Thanks. Fred- propane torch. Tim- I always de-whisker with rubbing alcohol instead of water. It dries quicker and does just as good a job for me. The alcohol and ferric acid needed no further whiskering. Other pieces of wood may very.

Michael · « **Reply #6 on:** July 12, 2010, 02:33:55 PM »

Nate,

If you are using hardware store quality alcohol it contains (as I remember) about 10-12% water. I worked for a number of years restoring furniture, most of it European and a lot of it was finished with a French Polish finish. The French Polish we made in the shop to restore/repair the finish was made with alcohol that did not have any water in it.

FYI

Michael

Jim Cook · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2010, 02:26:18 AM »

Michael,
In my work with composites (fiberglass, graphite and kevlar) "rubbing alcohol" was the alcohol with water added to it (and sometimed oils). Where as alcohol in a sealed can had no added water. After using alcohol to clean a bonding surface of any greases and finger prints it was cleaned again to remove any water which might have condensed on it. If it wasn't kept in a sealed can it would pick up water. If I remember right it is called hydroscopic. Sounds important but means it attracts water.

If your shop was taking the effort to use water free alcohol, you were dealing with serious finishes.

Quote from: Michael on July 12, 2010, 02:33:55 PM

Nate,

If you are using hardware store quality alcohol it contains (as I remember) about 10-12% water. I worked for a number of years restoring furniture, most of it European and a lot of it was finished with a French Polish finish. The French Polish we made in the shop to restore/repair the finish was made with alcohol that did not have any water in it.

FYI

Michael

projeeper · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2010, 02:45:04 AM »

Nate,
The Dave Keck you got your wood and parts from is he the champion turkey caller?Heck of a nice guy if it,s him.

bluenoser · « **Reply #9 on:** July 13, 2010, 02:54:04 AM »

Picked up some very good information in this thread. I will try whiskering with alcohol on my current build and had been wondering about possible benefits of dissolving ferric nitrate in alcohol instead of water.

Thanks

FWIW, the correct term is hygroscopic.

Nate McKenzie · « **Reply #10 on:** July 14, 2010, 07:50:59 PM »

Projeeper. Not the same guy.

satwel · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2010, 02:59:58 PM »

Nate,

Nice work! I'm considering using ferric nitrate for the first time on my current build. After you applied the ferric nitrate, did you neutralize it? Some on this forum say neutralization is required and others say it's not necessary. If you did neutralize it, was it before or after you applied the heat to blush it?

Thank you.

smshea · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2010, 04:00:10 PM »

Very nice Nate!

Knob Mountain · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2010, 06:25:46 PM »

Nicely done Nate!
Bring it around so I can see it. Quit holding out on me.

Kermit · « **Reply #14 on:** July 16, 2010, 03:41:41 AM »

The hygroscopicity, if that's a word, is what makes gas drier work. BTW, even the "pure" alcohol contains some water, usually 5-10%. That's why Everclear is 190 proof. It's way too expensive to remove the last of the H2O.

Nate McKenzie · « **Reply #15 on:** July 16, 2010, 06:28:39 PM »

Satwell- I did not neutralize.

Dave- the customer picked it up before I could get it to you. Sorry.

bdixon · « **Reply #16 on:** July 16, 2010, 07:03:33 PM »

I like it, I wonder if I could do some similar carving on a Joe Long stock and still be close to correct? I suppose it would be similar to other Upper Susq rifles.

Nate McKenzie · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2010, 06:56:59 PM »

No. This carving is closer to Reading style. Most Upper Sus. guns had a more feathery style such as this.

Quote from: Breadhead on May 20, 2010, 04:36:47 AM

bdixon · « **Reply #18 on:** July 19, 2010, 09:46:28 PM »

I like this one too Nate, I am getting brave enough to try some on my Long.

Roger Fisher · « **Reply #19 on:** July 19, 2010, 09:52:21 PM »

Quote from: bluenoser on July 13, 2010, 02:54:04 AM

Picked up some very good information in this thread. I will try whiskering with alcohol on my current build and had been wondering about possible benefits of dissolving ferric nitrate in alcohol instead of water.

Thanks

FWIW, the correct term is hygroscopic.

Both work!

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Author Topic: Upper Susquehanna Rifle (Read 10358 times)

Michael

Jim Cook

projeeper