Decisions; Decisions

[frogwalking]

I ordered a fowler kit and to expedite things, wound up with a smooth rifle kit.  Now the only difference between these two is the latter has a cheekpiece and the platform for a sliding wood patch box.  I figured that before I got to that point, I would decide if I wanted to file these features off and have the fowling piece, or go the extra mile and have the smooth rifle.  I am at that point or nearly.  I know this is a personal decision, but does anyone have any suggestions?  I have never made a sliding patchbox cover, but am handy with tools and understand the technique. 

Also, the fore-end on this one was left square and it is time to shed the excess wood.  The only weapon I have on hand for this is a sharp Stanley Surform tool; (the long kind).  It is quite aggressive and will throw the chips.  Would I be better off to visit the local antique/junk store and search for an old hand plane, or just go with the surform tool and then file it smooth with a rough file?  The wood is a very nice dead straight grain quarter sawed American walnut.  My concern is getting the finished fore end straight and even.

[smylee grouch]

A spoke shave does a pretty good job for me, down to a point anyway.    Gary

[Tom Currie]

Regarding the fowler or smooth rifle that is just a matter of personal taste for you. Besides the patchbox or no patch box decision,  there is also the trigger guard to think about as fowlers usually don't have a grip rail and a smooth rifle generally will.

Personal preference here but I usually take my upper forestock down near the end of the build as it will be very delicate once taken down to final dimension. I have several hand planes or spoke shaves  that I like to use.

[Simon]

I have used a surform on maple, but never on walnut.  It works good if you don,t try to go to far.  Used the surform, then a rasp, then sandpaper

Mel

[Don Getz]

That surform will work to rough it down, but don't go too far...it will take it off quick.   If you are getting into gunbuilding,
you will need some Nicholson cabinetmakers rasps, a #49, or #50.....either one will work.    Then, after you get that
forend close, use a long sanding block..3" x 8", with 80 to 100 grit paper on it.   Run the block lengthwise, it will remove
all the lumps and dips and will get that forend straightened out.   As for a wooden patch box, if you don't feel comfortable
in doing it, forget it.    Rasp or sand off that area to match the rest of the buttstock.   You could leave the cheekpiece, and
I would feel comfortable using a fowler guard, be it a smoothbore fowler, or smooth rifle....your choice............Don

[J. Talbert]

There are many ways to remove wood on a longrifle, but if I had only one choice, it wood be a Nicholson #49 or #50!

Jeff

[northmn]

There are a lot of differences between a fowler and a smooth rifle.  A true smooth rifle has a barrel like a rifle but smooth and is built like a rifle.  A fowler has a lighter barrel and different archetecture.  A wood patch box and cheek piece does not make a smooth rifle.  Also some smooth rifles I have seen in pictures have DST's.  You also have sights on a smooth rifle.  I am builing one now, sort of a Beck, and it also uses rifle triggerguards and buttplates.  John Taylor had an interesting article on a smooth rifle in 10 bore he used to harvest ivory with in WWII when ammo was scarce.  It was not a duck gun.  Your fowler may be designed after one that was built with a cheek piece and wood patch box.

DP

[James Rogers]

I would take off the cheek piece and flat for the box.

[frogwalking]

I see that the Nicholson Cabinet Rasps come in 6, 8, 10 and 12 cut.  I assume this is degree of roughness, such as teeth per inch.  For use after the surform, which one should I buy?

Thanks.

[James Rogers]

Go with the "PAtternmakers" rasps in #49 or #50. I have #49 which is the coarser of the 2. I will be buying a #50 as well.

[JTR]

Both are on sale here;
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2778&BASE

And probably lot's of other places too.

John

[Jim Kibler]

Beware.  It seems the Nicholson pattern makers rasps have been cheapened significantly.  The last recently purchased rasp I saw was made in Brazil and neither looked the same nor worked as well as older versions. 

[Bill-52]

I ordered a Nicholson #49 & #50 from Jamestown Distributors when they had these on sale early this year.  They're both made in Brazil.  That said, they work very well removing wood quickly, but not too quickly, before switching to a file.  Of course, I'm new to building longrifles and never used an old Nicholson -- its probably good I don't know what I'm missing. 

Bill

[frogwalking]

Nicholson 49 on order.  (I have a set of Nicholson bastard and hand files I bought last year and they are the cat's meow.)

I wondered about the smooth rifle having a rounded toe rather than a toe plate, a thin oct to round bbl rather than an octagon, along with the general stock shape, no fore end cap too.  I think I will follow James' suggestion and finish as a pure fowler.

Thanks to all. 

Frog

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

So much depends on period and location re the history of theses guns.....that being said, there is no reason your fowling gun can't have a cheekpiece, if you want one....and it helps you shoot better......And a patchbox to carry your Snickers bars in too IF you want it.....  If you want to make a certain pattern of fowling gun then find pictures or an original and do it the way the builder did it.. Its up to you.......... If you knew what you wanted to build........what would it be like??

[James Rogers]

Beware.  It seems the Nicholson pattern makers rasps have been cheapened significantly.  The last recently purchased rasp I saw was made in Brazil and neither looked the same nor worked as well as older versions. 

Thanks for that info.
My older #49 works like a dream. Sad to hear they have changed their "recipe".
Doesn't take long for someone to screw up something good.