Barrel Rib Rivets?

[Ky-Flinter]

In the recent thread on barrel rib screws, an alternative was mentioned, using rivets made from finishing nails.  I am currently working on a Hawken and the rivet method raised my curiosity.  I did a search, but came up empty.

So can someone please give me the how-to details?  Thanks.

-Ron

[John Archer]

Rather than go into a lengthy description of the process, I suggest you pick up "Building Muzzle-Loaders II" (Percussion Edition) by Primitive Arts Video.  Susie at Muzzleloaders stocks this video if I remember correctly.

The process is demonstrated very clearly on it.

John

[Kentucky Jeff]

The way I've seen it done that seems to be the best is to use unplated machine screws.  Drill and tap the barrel just like you would for a screw mount and slightly countersink the rib.   But be sure you use screws way too long for the task.  Screw them down tight and cut off the screw head slightly above the surface of the rib.  Use a small ball peen hammer to rivet the screw down into the countersink of the rib and file to dress. 

[shifty]

the video by Herschel House (Building the Hawken Rifle ) also shows this procedure very clearly. Nails of the proper size may be better than screws because they are softer metal and brad easier.Don't forget to do your half Moon in the end of the rib before you install it on the barrel.

[holzwurm]

(Suzie uses 6D finishing nails)

1. Locate and drill hole's in barrel rib the diameter of the nail shank. A 6D had a "gage" of 13. Have to find a chart to determine the drill size that matches that?
2. Clamp rib in place and spot through holes to locate drill points in barrel bottom flat.
3. Drill blank hole's in barrel a little deeper than the nail head is tall and the diameter of the nail head. You may have to dress the diameter of the nail head to get a snug fit in a standard diameter drill hole.
4. Set nail in place and punch the barrel steel down around the head so the nail is solidly installed (like installing barrel lugs).
5. Set the barrel rib in place over the nails, clip off the nail at the rib and peen the nail down into the prepositioned countersink. Some machinist or "C" clamps will hold the rib in place nicely while you hammer the nails down into the countersink.

[Ky-Flinter]

Holzwurn,
Thank you very much for the how-to.  Much appreciated!

....Don't forget to do your half Moon in the end of the rib before you install it on the barrel.

Huh.... Half moon in the end of the rib?

-Ron

[Rick Sheets]

This is a cutoff hog rifle barrel. The original ribs were hollow or relieved like this one.
Notice the half-moon at the junction of the barrel and rib. Also have a look at the rivet that was cut in half when the barrel was bobbed. It looks like a soft nail was driven in and peened over. [TOF called me on this one! There are obvious treads here, so it is not a nail.]

I think Hershal filed in a half-moon at the muzzle then filled it with solder to give the illusion that the rib he used was hollow.

RICK

[T*O*F]

Also have a look at the rivet that was cut in half when the barrel was bobbed. It looks like a soft nail was driven in and peened over.

Rick,
I don't think so.  Threads are obvious both in the hole and on the rivet.

[Rick Sheets]

Threads are there!
This shows the value of looking at something again with magnification. My tired eyes saw something different. I did not really look at the photo- I assumed I saw what I saw, oooops and thanks.
Rick

[northmn]

I mentioned using the TOW system for inletting underpinning lugs where one drills holes and then peens around the legs.  I used to use poultry netting staples and a 5/64 in drill bit.  I got a warning from Don Getz and a couple of others that one could dimple the inside of the barrel doing things like that.  Thought I would mention it.

DP