Stripping old finish?

[longhunter1757]

Before anyone cringes, it's an old Jukar.
Can anyone tell me what kind of finish was used on these?
I sprayed it with stripper and let is sit for probably an hour and it didn't even discolor the surface.
I'd rather not sand it off but if I have to so be it.
Any advice on perhaps a better stripper?

Thanks in advance.

Rich Baker

[Dave K]

I have no idea what they used, but I always use Zip Strip with good results.

[Artificer]

I have used a very diverse number and types of strippers over the years.  I've given up on most of them as some finishes will resist some or most all stripping agents and then one might run into problems with stripping residue.  I stopped using steel wool years ago because far too many times a steel "hair" would show up later in the finish.   Here's what I do now.

1.  Try acetone with a bronze "Chore Girl" type kitchen scrubbing pad.  Acetone is chemically neutral and will leave no residue from the stripping that you have to worry about showing up later.  Wipe off the finish as you go with paper towels.  Use Chemical gloves.  Make sure you have good ventilation.

2.  On some of the plastic finishes, I put on chemical gloves and use the bronze pad with Lacquer Thinner.  Then clean the wood with acetone and paper towels afterward.  Again, make sure you have good ventilation.

3.  If those don't work, then get out the cabinet scrapers and follow up as needed with Acetone and/or Lacquer Thinner, then a final wipe with acetone using chemical gloves and good ventilation.

Both Acetone and Lacquer Thinner liquid and fumes are extremely flammable, though I have used Acetone on almost a daily basis since 1973 and never set it on fire except when I deliberately intended to do so.

Gus

[Lucky R A]

For the epoxy type finishes, go to your auto parts store and get a spray can of stripper designed for automotive two part epoxy finishes.  I have had good luck with 3-M "Peeler."    It easily removes the modern finish that is applied to Remington rifles.   

Ron

[longhunter1757]

Thanks gentlemen.
I'll give it one more shot with some more aggressive stripper and if that doesn't work, out come the scrapers.


Rich

[Dphariss]

I used an epoxy stripper from the lumber yard to strip a Browning with a heavy plastic coating.

Dan

[halfstock]

I believe I remember another site where they disscussed this and the consenses was to take the stock to a furniture refinisher/restorer and have them vat it when they strip some furniture, supposedly no residue and no change in stock config or dims.

[Hawken62_flint]

I had a Browning rifle that I refinished for a friend (previous owner had not taken good care of it), and I tried all the strippers that we found on various message boards and took advice from local lumber yards, etc.  Nothing would touch that finish.  So, I scraped every bit of the finish off with an Uncle Henry pocket knife.  It was quite a chore, but the end result was really nice.

[frogwalking]

For scrapers, Dad showed me how to break a piece of window glass.  It will break into various generally smooth curves.  I can generally find one that will fit the area I am working on and they are real sharp.  Of course, wear gloves.

[roundball]

I believe I remember another site where they disscussed this and the consenses was to take the stock to a furniture refinisher/restorer and have them vat it when they strip some furniture, supposedly no residue and no change in stock config or dims.

That was probably me...I refinished several walnut stocks by dropping them off at an antique furniture place that had a commercial size chemical stripping booth.
Pick it up the following week, stripped to the raw wood, no dimensions changed form any sanding or brushing, etc...$25 bucks...take them home and start appling several coats of Tru-Oil over several days...no pain, no strain, no fumes, to bursitis, etc.