Barrel vise blocks

[Jerry V Lape]

Struggling with a breechplug on a Rayl barrel.  Can't get a good clamp on it in the vise that will let me put the plug back into the barrel to the witness mark.  I had a set of wood blocks which worked on other barrels but the force needed to put this tight plug back broke that block.  Anyone have a source of aluminum blocks that will take a swamped barrel approx 1" across at the site of the clamp?  Tried Brownells but the only thing they have is a set which works in their barrel clamping vise - which becomes a pretty expensive proposition for the few times I  need the tool. 

[Jim Kibler]

If the barrel isn't finished just clamp it with some brass, copper or aluminum in your vise jaws.  If it's finished you might want to use some relatively tough wood and orient the grain such that the force in clamping is less likely to cause a split.  A big sturdy vise is beneficial here.  For a tight fitting plug, it sometimes helps to tighten until almost complete but with a little slack left and pull rather quickly to snap the plub into position.  This should work fine, but if if it doesn't , take a bit of metal off wherever it's hitting.  No need to buy any special equipment for the job.

[Dphariss]

Struggling with a breechplug on a Rayl barrel.  Can't get a good clamp on it in the vise that will let me put the plug back into the barrel to the witness mark.  I had a set of wood blocks which worked on other barrels but the force needed to put this tight plug back broke that block.  Anyone have a source of aluminum blocks that will take a swamped barrel approx 1" across at the site of the clamp?  Tried Brownells but the only thing they have is a set which works in their barrel clamping vise - which becomes a pretty expensive proposition for the few times I  need the tool. 

You either need a better vise or you need some STP on the threads and other bearing points.
Use brass, copper or aluminum vise jaws. Sheet brass will work if you have a good vise.

Dan

[Dave B]

Jerry Huddleston told us a long while back for pulling tough breach pugs. He talked about using a chunk of hard wood and filling in a roughed out section with regular auto body bondo with  the barrel covered with surran wrap (to use as a parting agent) till it sets will allow a person to pull the toughest plugs out with out damaging the barrel. I think it was specifically for SXS breaches but it still applies for regular pugs as well.

[Otter]

I gunsmith friend did much the same thing as Dave B describes except he used acra-glass gel instead of bondo. He made blocks to fit various sized barrels. He said they were one of the best "tools" he ever made.

[Metalshaper]

also, don't clamp the barrel, right at/on the breech! your vise can exert enough pressure to make it difficult to turn the plug in.!  learned that one the hard way

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

[ken]

Is it a new barrel? Does it have a touch hole liner in it? If it  does have a liner , remove it first! Then try to remove the breech plug.

[Roger Fisher]

Is it a new barrel? Does it have a touch hole liner in it? If it  does have a liner , remove it first! Then try to remove the breech plug.

Ol Jerry is trying to get the plug back in not out, seems like

[Jerry V Lape]

Dave B,  I forgot about Jerry Huddleston's bondo block!  That will work thanks for the reminder. 

I have taken the plug out earlier with a hard maple block.  But snugging it back in to the witness mark is a whole nother thing!   Broke my maple block.  I do need a better vise and will see to that this weekend along with the bondo block.  As for the wrench, I reshaped the jaws of a large crescent wrench to fit the foot of the tang properly along with a set of brass overlays for the jaws to better grip and not chew up the tang.  Shortened the end of the crescent jaws to prevent damage to the upper edge of the tang as well.  I did lubricate the threads before hand. 

I think Rayl has a pet gorilla he uses to put his breech plugs in.  I will need to take this plug out after inletting the tang, and replace it after coning the touch hole from the interior.  So investing the time in tools is worth the effort.

[Jim Kibler]

There's nothing wrong with making epoxy or bondo filled blocks, but with a new barrel there's really no need.  A good vise, proper jaws and a big wrench is all that's required.  I've dealt with tight plugs and never had any real trouble with this arangement.  My advice, keep it simple.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

A tap on the wrench handle with my ball peen hammer gets their attention.......