Field Adaptions

[northmn]

Been learning a few things over the last couple of years using the ML's for hunting.  Some of the little things that did not really bother on the target range came back to haunt me in the field.
Touch hole position:  At a target range I just filled up to the touch hole on the line with the rifle pointed down range and had no real issues.  A hunting rifle is carried primed and you do not want a touch hole positioned so that finer powder dribbles into the vent and causes that long fuse effect.
Pan/Frizzen fit:  I have had a couple of problems with primer dribbling out of the pan while carrying.  Both locks were L&R with that little ridge under the frizzen that is supposed to prevent that. Think Jim Chamber's comments on that frizzen style are right on.  I did a little fitting last night and hope I eliminated that problem.  One lock worked fine with 3f primer.  The one last night was dribbling out 2f.  Think I got it.
Single Lever DST's:  My squirrel rifle has a double lever system which works fine.  An older rifle has a single lever where you have to set the trigger to release the lock.  A real PITA in the field.  I like a simple single trigger best for the deer rifle. 
Sights:  Need ones you can see in the woods,  not fine target sights.  Peep are better (with my aging eyes scopes are best) but still to stiff necked to use them on a flintlock.  Use them on my percussion.
Mobility:  Been carrying my attempt to somewhat duplicate an English sporting rifle.  Way nicer in the woods.  Personal admittedly.  But the long rifle was a rather unique phenomenon.
Still learning and may change my mind on a few things.

DP

[bob in the woods]

Actually carrying and using a flintlock in the field under hunting conditions is a very different experience.
Rain, snow, heat, humidity, bumps and knocks from lugging it around all day. I have found the so called
rain proof pans with the ridge to be about the worst for keeping my prime dry. I like to work on the pan /frizzen fit until it looks tight when held up to a bright light. With this level of fit, you can prime the pan with the lock out of the gun, block the off side with your thumb, put the lock into a sink of water, pull it out and the prime is still dry. A little lube to seal the barrel /lock line , along with a leather cow's knee and I hunt in all kinds of weather. I use my flintlocks almost exclusively when hunting everything from deer, bear, geese, ducks, partridge etc.  and the learning process was long and often frustrating, but worth the effort. My recently completed Chamber's Edward Marshall .62 cal is my new moose gun, and that pretty much means wet snow, rain and life in the bottom of a canoe. I have every faith in it's reliability.
By the way, keeping the prime away from the vent is an old belief , now disproved by actual timed photography. For hunting I make sure that my pan is at least 1/3 full, and the powder is against the vent.
Works every time.

[northmn]

I am not talking about keeping the prime away from the vent as much as not letting it fill the vent.  There is a difference.  I used to install liners on some production guns that had the vent practically in the bottom of the pan that would often sound like a fuse before going off for their owners.  The "sunset" position is still pretty tried and true.  One other thing I have been experimenting with is the use of a vent drilled by a 49 drill bit (.073) for my 20 bore and 58 to see if that is not fairly reliable.  Jurys out on that yet.  My 20 bore does not have that gate I am talking about and works fine.  I seem to have the problem fixed as the thing held prime this morning while I was out.

DP

[BrownBear]

I find that adaptations to my "kit" are more important than to the gun- and I'm saying that without denying the importance of a well functioning gun.  But you have to see the game within range before you can ever put the gun into play.

In my neck of the woods there's a slew of stiff, scratchy brush reaching to hip high on me, and above waist high on most folks.  Bags made of high temper leather screech and scratch, snap and pop like the percussion section of an orchestra.  You have to wear a bag high, cover it, fringe it or make it out of soft leather.  Otherwise you spend half your day with it tucked high under your arm.  Same for haversacks and clothing- it's got to be soft.

Footwear is important too.  Never found moccasins  that stood up in our wet and slick, so modern footgear is the norm. But you need a soft sole to "feel" the brush underfoot and shift your load before it snaps.

[smylee grouch]

I have said it before on this site but willrepeat again, seal off your pan from the elements with a mix of melted bees wax/deer tallow to the consistency of peanut butter. place a small bead around pan where ever prime will leak out or wet will leak in. I have used this method for years and so far have not ever had a flinter not go off when I fired.   Gary

[northmn]

I have said it before on this site but willrepeat again, seal off your pan from the elements with a mix of melted bees wax/deer tallow to the consistency of peanut butter. place a small bead around pan where ever prime will leak out or wet will leak in. I have used this method for years and so far have not ever had a flinter not go off when I fired.   Gary

I may have the fit so I do not need to do that.  I prefer that.  My little lock on my squirrel rifle does not leak priming as is.  My point on this is that there are a few little things that i never paid much attention to as they did not affect target shooting but are big time in hunting.

DP