Hey all...first post here...could use a bit of advice ..

[rock rat]

Hey all! Just got my brand new .50cal Early VA flinter! WOW!! What a beauty! Ordered it from TVM 2 weeks ago..real nice work! It is also my first flinter. Not real green to shooting them..just never owned one. I do, however, own several caplocks and a few cap and ball revolvers. Anyway, my new rifle has a 38"Rice swamped barrel,L&R early flintlock,double set triggers and full iron furniture. I believe the rate of twist is 1 in 66". What would one be incline to use as a start-up load? I am planning on a .490 RB,70-80grns. of 3F Goex,and a prelubed .010 patch (I also have some pre-cut ticking patches...I think there there, what? .015 or so?) For a priming powder,I was going to try some 4F Goex. With this load,I was going to print some groups @ 25yds,with a good grouping hunting load,then move out to 50yds..once I made some adjustments to the fixed sights. Maybe once I reach out to 75-100yds,my final file adjustments would be made to the sights. This is my basic,kinda-sorta before I actually do it plan...throwing out now for some experianced input and insight....Thanks in advace folks!!   -rock rat

[roundball]

"...38"Rice swamped barrel..."

Personally, I think a .010" patch is too thin under almost any circumstances...IMO an .018" would be a minimum.

And...if that barrel has deep .016" round bottom grooves like mine does, a .022" patch will probably be best.

[smylee grouch]

Roundball is right on with the patch thickness but I think you have the rest of it figured out pretty good.   Wecome to the forum.   Gary

[T*O*F]

With this load,I was going to print some groups @ 25yds,with a good grouping hunting load,then move out to 50yds..once I made some adjustments to the fixed sights. Maybe once I reach out to 75-100yds,my final file adjustments would be made to the sights.

I think you are approaching this incorrectly.  Shoot the gun at 25 to veryify a good group.  Make any windage adjustments.  Shoot the gun at 50 and note group position, but do not file the sights.  You may be at the apex of your trajectory and filing the sights now might cause you not to have enough elevation at 100 or beyond.  Do all your filing at 100.  Your group at that distance should be slightly high to give a point blank range of 125 yards or so, which will account for any faulty range estimation you might make when actually shooting at game.  At all distances, your shots should all be inside a 9" paper plate.

For target shooting at the range, vary your powder load to achieve results.  It doesn't take magnum loads to kill paper and you are just wasting powder.  I shoot 30 gr at 25, 50 gr at 50 and 70 at 100 yards.  With your deep rifling, a .495 ball with the correct patch will tighten you groups up.

Wean yourself off the 4f powder and get in the habit of using 3f.  Any minute gains in ignition speed will be offest by the fact that the 4f will suck moisture in field conditions, plus you will have an extra flask to fool around with when loading. Prime with what you shoot.  In the field, you will find that 3f is more reliable.....prime with what you shoot.

[Tom Cooper]

Good morning,

A bit more information in your bio would go along way to getting some more replies.

I shoot a .50 flinter with a 38" Green Mountain barrel, with my load consisting of .495 ball, .026 denim patch, 60 gr Goex 3f, with some greenish liquid lube that I have yet to get the recipe for.

This load is very accurate and shoots clean, I can shoot a 25 shot trail and no need to ever swab the bore between shots.

There was a bit of hand work done to the muzzle to allow for the loading of the tight ball patch combo, just takes a moderate whack to clear the muzzle and loads like a dream from there.

Here is a picture of the crown.

[Roger Fisher]

Yes, load her tighter Larger ball thicker tightly woven patch, spit (warm weather).

[Daryl]

Excellent advice so far.

 Nice crown, Tom.

[Dphariss]

Go to the fabric store and buy the thickest blue striped ticking they have.
Wash and dry cut the patches square ( I use a round punch). Oil with a PURE neatsfoot oil, most boot shops and leather goods shops (working leather goods that is) will have Fiebing's.  Get a small bottle. Crisco works for some or something from one of the suppliers like Mink Oil from TOW (its likely neatsfoot based).
This cloth will usually run about .018 and should load pretty easy even with a .495 ball if the crown is good. I can load my 50 caliber Green Mountain with a .018 patch, lubed with NF oil or tallow with just a rod or with a starter, starter will be easier on the rifle in some cases.

Dan

[hanshi]

Welcome to the forum, rock rat.  The TVM EV is a splendid rifle and yours sounds like a real winner.  I use a .490 ball and .015-.018 patches lubed with Hoppes #9 Plus bp lube. That's a good, snug combo in my EV and along with the Hoppes #9, it loads easily and doesn't need wiping between shots.  A .015" patch should be considered the bare minimum.  For hunting I'm using 75grns of 3f and 50 - 60 grains at the range.

[rock rat]

Hey all! thanks again for all your input and advice. This got me thinking and pointed in the right direction. Thanks too to TOF...I woulda butchered those poor sights...good catch! Well, I'll let ya all know how she shoots! Thanks again folks!   -rock rat

[roundball]

One other thing to ensure there's no misunderstanding about statements regarding powder to be used for priming...priming powder (4F) is designed/sold for the purpose of priming.  For example, Goex 4F is all I've ever used since I've been into Flintlocks and it's always been 100% reliable...never a hint of ignition problems.

And that's covering range use and year round hunting under all weather conditions...including intentionally going deer hunting when it was raining and/or being caught in rain while hunting...3 times for deer and 1 time for turkey that's happened and killed deer/turkey on those trips without hesitation on the part of my Flintlocks.

One of the nice challenges of using a Flintlock, particularly hunting with a Flintlock, is to learn to manage it's environment properly, mainly as it relates to ignition...and regardless of the granulation used for priming while its raining, you simply need to do a couple very simple things:
1) Keep the muzzle down lower than the lock so water can't run back alongside the barrel & barrel bed into the pan or vent;
2) Keep the lock up under the coat or rain gear where it’s dry;
3) Refresh the prime periodically...costs a penny and you'll have very fast, 100% reliable 4F ignition every time in spite of the weather;

 

[Daryl]

Good post, RB.  Most of us use 4F- year around - raining, snowing or sunny weather- doesn't matter.

The only time we've had a moisture problem is AFTER firing a shot, never before.  Then, merley wiping the fouling out of the pan & off the  underside of the frizzen with a dry piece of cloth or paper towel after the shot & before re-repiming, has done the trick for the next shot - without problem.

[northmn]

The 4f/3f debate could go on but here are my experiences.  As Roundball said 4f is priming powder and I do feel I get faster ignition more consistantly with it.  However in the field it likes to dribble out of the pan when you carry the gun unless the frizzen to pan fit is very tight (I just worked on that for one gun and fixed it) or if you get a little crud, as in flashing a pan to clear oils before loading.  Sometimes for carrying the rifle in the field I use 3f as it stays in the pan better and does not dribble out like 4f if there is a bit of crud holding up the frizzen. I much prefer a tight fit between the pan and frizzen to alternatives.

DP

[Dphariss]

The 4f/3f debate could go on but here are my experiences.  As Roundball said 4f is priming powder and I do feel I get faster ignition more consistantly with it.  However in the field it likes to dribble out of the pan when you carry the gun unless the frizzen to pan fit is very tight (I just worked on that for one gun and fixed it) or if you get a little crud, as in flashing a pan to clear oils before loading.  Sometimes for carrying the rifle in the field I use 3f as it stays in the pan better and does not dribble out like 4f if there is a bit of crud holding up the frizzen. I much prefer a tight fit between the pan and frizzen to alternatives.

DP

A set of needle files and some magic marker will fix most dribbles unless the lock assembler is really screwed up.
Scrapers are even better than needle files.
Dan