Author Topic: second build  (Read 3213 times)

dave m.1

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second build
« on: January 10, 2011, 08:52:02 PM »
Hello everyone,I'm just getting started on my second rifle.I going to try a john armstrong,or something with my limited knowledge I can get close to.Here's my dilema,I bought a plan from TOW wich uses a 7/8 straight barrel,but while at dixon's I bought a "C" profile rice barrel and had fred miller inlet it and drill the ramrod hole.When I wen't to make a wooden stock blank(as shown in alexanders book)I noticed that my bigger barrel 1 1/6 at breech wont line up with my layout on the wood.Should I just line the horizontal line of the touch hole up on the plan and try to feather the bigger barrel and below the lock into the wrist?I did'nt know if that would ruin the overall look of the gun?Thank's for any help. Dave M. (being only my second gun the plan and alexanders book are invaluble)

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: second build
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2011, 09:09:54 PM »
Dave, I'm having trouble visualizing your problem.  It would be very helpful to post pictures of what you have.  I'm sure you'll get the advice you seek that way.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

Offline rich pierce

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Re: second build
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2011, 10:32:04 PM »
The blueprint which was designed for a narrower barrel has to be modified obviously.  Just use the blueprint for a reference not an actual guide.  

Basic design layout is nearly always the same.
Start with your barrel and the breechplug.
Sketch in the topline of the barrel inlet at halfway up the side flat.  You can plane this down later as desired to show more barrel.
Figure out where the touchhole will go.
Now position the lock tentatively based on the touchhole.
Add the web between the barrel bottom and the ramrod hole, add the ramrod hole, and 1/8" below that.
Roughly position the trigger based on the lock.
Now based on the blueprint or pictures of Armstrong guns, place the buttplate for length of pull, drop, and buttstock style.
Now sketch in the comb, wrist, toeline to "look like an Armstrong"
Now sketch in cheekpiece etc to fit well in the buttstock
Go back and re-position the lock so the tail centers better on the wrist.
You should now be good to go in the buttstock section and can locate the entry thimble, other thimbles, underlugs, sideplate, sights, nosecap, etc.

etc.  I think Eric Von Achwge did a tutorial on making blueprints
« Last Edit: January 11, 2011, 01:07:12 AM by richpierce »
Andover, Vermont

dave m.1

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Re: second build
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2011, 03:08:06 AM »
rich is the tutorial on blue prints in the tutorial forum.I'm taking the fowler class at the log cabin shop but did'nt want to bother those guy's with something we won't be working on.Thank's dave

Offline rich pierce

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Re: second build
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2011, 01:51:33 AM »
Dave, I looked and it's not there.  I get mixed up.  Eric gave a good class on this at Dixon's Muzzleloading Fair, and I thought he also did a tutorial here.  Guess not. 

Ask away here- there are plenty of guys who have been down this road of adapting parts sets to a style.  Many original gunsmiths did it all the time- used different weight barrels, etc., different locks, but still made their rifles in a recognizable style uniquely theris.
Andover, Vermont