Inletting lock in pistol blank

[frogwalking]

I have the stock profile cut out; the barrel and tang inlet, am working on the barrel lug.  I guess the next step is to inlet the lock.   The blank is still about 1/4 inch or a little more too thick on each side of the barrel.  The rear portion of the barrel is octagon, not tapered. (I guess that makes the lockplate install parallel to the barrel center line and not flared in the rear, which I know is a better design.)  Should I attempt to reduce stock thickness first, if so what is the best way, or should I inlet the lock plate and then cut the stock thickness to fit?  (This would require inletting much deeper.)

I initially cut the stock thinner on a planer down the road at a cabinet shop.  Not sure if I dare try this again with profile near final dimensions. 

[whitebear]

I would remove the hammer and frizzen, turn the lock upside down with the top of the lock on the wood.  Beside the barrel, mark the thickness of the plate and bolster on the wood and with rasp and files work the wood down evenly until the thickness was very close to the mark then inlet lockplate as usual.

In his book Recreating the American Longrifle, Mr. Alexander mentions thinning the bolster of a lockplate from front to back so that the tail of the lock is kicked out giving a profile resembling a tapered barrel.

[California Kid]

Leave 1/32" to 1/16" extra wood on the lock panel. You don't want to inlet through all that wood. Remember to locate your touch hole first.