I am probably going to open myself up to a "thrashing" with my response from those that consider a loose barrel inlet poor workmanship, but here goes. First, follow the advice of one of the above posts and soft solder the lug onto the barrel. Slot the lugs to ensure free movement of the barrel. Wood contracts and expands with changing weather conditions, as well as when the barrel heats up from a repeated string of shots. Rifles without slotted lugs will start to show a decrease in accuracy after the barrel has been heated through multiple shots. Inlet the breech area as tight as possible, then inlet the rest of the barrel loose to allow for barrel whip and harmonics. If a loose inlet bothers you, inlet the barrel as tight as possible, ensuring an even pressure the entire barrel length. However, remember that wood will swell and contract with the weather, and the rising temperature of the barrel through shooting will have a similar effect as changing weather temperatures. That tight inlet may provide for even preasure on the barrel the day it was perfectly inleted, but how bout at a 50 degree temperature change, or in moist or dry weather? With such changes, I would be willing to bet you'd have a pressure point on that barrel however slight. There is a difference between modern firearms and non cartridge firearms with regards to barrel whip and harmonics, but there is a reason modern tactical/target rifles have a free floating barrel, and on the same note many original longrifles have been reported to have a more rounded barrel inlet. Tight on side flats and loose on the other flats. Call it sloppy workmanship or not. Just something to think about.
